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What's everyone's opinion on quality of brake parts to buy. On Rock Auto I see rotors from $10 (wholesaler closeout) to $113. Daily driver, economy, fully coated, high performance. And a ton of choices. Do I just choose something in the middle, like I usually do, lol. Or because of the weight we carry, do I spend closer to the top?

You do realize it must say for dual rear wheels. That said I like raysbestos and dynamic friction. Dynamic friction comes in several grades. Whatever you do just don't buy Centric. My rear shoes were machined wrong and didn't fit. They wouldn't take them back, said I was wrong. Owner of the company actually screamed at me on the phone and hung up on me. Bad company. Depends on how you drive too. Some people obviously use the brakes excessively. For most middle of the road cost is just fine

Linda S

aren't 5 lug and 6lug rotors different?? ? as in 1 ton-1/2 ton

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rz

Yes, I do realize that. Thanks for pointing it out however. And thanks for the heads up on Centric and the suggestions of Raybestos and Dynamic Fiction.?

Brakes and tires are a curious conundrum in that if you never use them in an extreme situation, the difference between The Good Stuff and The Merely Adequate Stuff is

mostly not relevant. However, when an extreme situation comes up, you may be glad you payed the extra money for The Good Stuff.

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With respect to brakes, if the brakes are powerful enough to lock the wheels when you get on them hard, they are providing you all the braking any brand can

at any cost.

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Where more expensive brands tend to create a difference is under conditions of sustained or repeated hard braking. The Good Stuff handles the

sustained high temperatures better than The Merely Adequate Stuff. Higher-priced brake parts may also last longer and/or have less tendency

to make noise and/or (in the case of rotors/drums) less tendency to warp, but those are secondary concerns.

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My general philosophy in this area has been to buy parts with a reputable brand name (another poster cited Raybestos as an example) and

pick something indicated for "normal" driving or "heavy duty" if it's not dramatically more expensive. The truly high-end stuff tends to be useful

only to those in extreme situations (racing, frequent sustained downhill driving, etc.) and installing something that isn't labeled "Economy" hopefully

provides a higher safety margin than going the cheapest route possible.

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As a real-world example, the last time I renewed my brakes on my daily driver Mazda, I splurged for drilled/slotted rotors and "ultra-high performance"

brake pads...and I've largely wasted my money. The brakes work fine (though the drilled/slotted rotors seem to create minor odd vibrations at times),

but I simply don't drive the car aggressively enough to realize the heat dissipation benefits compared to a "daily driver" set of brake parts.

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You are free to choose your own cost/benefit analysis and go with what works for you.

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Also note: You may want to buy your parts from a local brick-and-mortar store rather than online. Even with the most careful scrutiny of application

guides, sometimes you get the wrong parts. For example, I had a Nissan where the front pads for the Made-in-Japan model with ABS were different

than the brake pads for the Made-in-Tennessee model with ABS. Buying locally means you can bring in your old parts to check they match up

and/or easily return them if they're not correct.

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Good luck,

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Buzz L.

San Jose, CA

Former '86 Dolphin, '89 HiLux, and '96 Tacoma owner (and lifelong car nerd)