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Rear window glass Sunrader rear dinette


 

Has anyone had the glass out of the frame, (and put it back in) on Sunrader rear dinette models?
Any words of wisdom you can share about your experience getting it back in?


 

If it's like the rear glass on the 1986 Dolphin 500 (rear dinette) I used to own,
it is no different than any of the other coach windows.

The glass is the "filling" of a sandwich with the inner and outer as the "bread."

To take out the glass, you remove all the screws holding the inner and outer frames
together. Reinstallation is the reverse of removal. Because the rear window is so
large, this job should probably be done with two people. One to remove the scews
and the other to hold the glass in place.

Also, if you are removing the window, it's a good idea to clean off the old putty
sealing the outer window frame and install fresh putty tape.

Good luck,

Buzz L.
Phoenix, AZ
Former 1986 Dollphin, 1989 HiLux, and 1996 Tacoma owner


 

Doug, I thought you did. Didn't you reset the glass on your big window?
Linda S


 

Buzz I have never seen an RV window constructed as you describe. No sandwich of frame enclosing the glass. Glass is completely held in place by sealant similar to windshield sealant and stabilized with window glazing bead. The only screws involved are in the trim ring which holds the frame to the camper walls .
Linda S


 

i just found out i should not have used black rtv to bed the glass.? now i have to reseal all of them with butyl rubber bedding
like i should have done in the first place
--
rz


 

?Doug, are you talking about Out of the Sunrader fiberglass body frame?, or out of the metal frame? I'm in Brookings OR also, with an 86 RD Sunrader, and have redone all the glass windows and every other orifice from the running lights to the water intakes, to the storage, refer, heater, ect, I emailed you privately with my contact info.


 

Yes I did Linda, ?back in 2017. Back then I followed your advice and used a “ribbon” of butyl tape you suggested, between the glass and the frame. That stuff was really great for waterproofing and also for keeping the glass from ever falling out, but it was hell to squeeze down far enough to get the rubber glazing to fit into both the glass and the frame at the same time. It took a lot of work with a heat gun (even on a hot August day in So. Cal) to soften it up enough to get the rubber glazing ?in place. Even then, after awhile the glazing started coming out. The bright side, it wasn’t going to let the window come out even with the rubber glazing completely out of there.?

But now 5-1/2 years later, I’ve decided it’s time for a redo, and I took the window off of the shell and and the glass out of the frame, and cleaned everything up real nice. I bought some new glazing rubber (I thought was the right one) from Pelland and although There’s another option which I ordered today, I’m not happy with the results I’m getting test fitting the first one. #1 it barely fits in place with nothing between the glass and the frame, and #2 it bunches up going around the corners. So even if the fit was perfect on the straight sections, the corners would surely let water in, and without any sealant between the glass and the frame water would get past the window.?

So, having been told by a guy at Trimlok that those windows were supposed to “just fall out” if you took the rubber out, no sealant required, I’m not at all comfortable without any sealant between the glass and the frame on mine because so far, I can’t depend on the rubber I’ve tried to stay in.

I like what you said briefly to Buzz I think, about “sealant similar to windshield sealant”, I guess I’ll need to google that.
If you know of a specific product that can go on very thinly, I’d like to know about that. ?


 

Buzz, Thanks for your reply. ?

?Linda is right about the configuration of the Sunrader rear window. Check out my response to her about this and you’ll get a better idea of what I’m dealing with. ??


 

rz, tell me why you think there’s something wrong with rtv. ?That’s an alternative I have been considering. Read my response to Linda in this thread and you’ll see why I’m not so keen on butyl. It’s a great sealant, but it seems to take up too much room, so you can easily end up not being able to get the rubber glazing strip in place. Please tell me about what butyl product you are considering as I would much rather have butyl in there if I can find something very thin. ?Just a bead of clear silicone might do the trick, I’m asking around.


 

Robert, thanks for your response.?
I have the glass out of the metal frame. If you look at the other postings I have made on this issue, you’ll see about where I’m at.
One thing I haven’t mentioned yet though is that the construction of the metal/aluminum frame isn’t entirely/perfectly symmetrical,
nor is the glass cut out of a cookie cutter. The frame on mine seems to have distorted a little where the corners are bent, so that there ends up being a bit more space in those areas and that could cause leakage. Also since each piece of glass is cut separately, and sanded some it seems to me that the positioning of the window into the frame can be done in one of four ways. I’ve tried mine in two of those positions, ie. lifting the glass out of the frame and leaving the same side up, rotating the glass horizontally 180 degrees. Neither of those first two have worked out well enough to get the glazing in all the way around, so I will be flipping the glass over and trying the two I haven’t gotten to yet. ?Any suggestions you have will be appreciated on any of this stuff.

Can you suggest a specific product for sealing the glass to the frame that will take up little or no measurable space?


 

hey doug, i know the rtv is a bad idea as i used it on all the windows. less than a year later they all leak. the rtv seams to have shrunk.? i did redo my overcab front glass because the plastic bubble window broke in half. i used some butyl auto bedding in a caulk tube to bed the clear poly i replaced the bubble with?
?couldn't use glass as anything better than ss is too thick, and being in front it needed at least laminated ds .? so far the butyl was no different to apply, and
so far no leaks
? ?randy
--
rz


 

Hi Randy,.? a couple things.? Is yours a Sunrader? So I'm wondering exactly where you found leaks using the rtv. I will be using butyl tape, (TackyTape brand), to seal the window frame to the fiberglass shell, but that is way too bulky for me to use between the glass and the frame, because it can'r squeexe down far enough to make room for the rubber glazing to fit in place.

Also, what is ss and ds? I don't know what you are referring to, glass?

Probably most important, can you tell me exactly which butyl product you used? do you still have the tube? and where did you get it?

Thanks Doug


 

so... i find water inside the frames of the windows-? mine is a dolphin-? ?i can see places where the rtv is missing.??
i used the tape to seal to the coach, and? dupont betaseal u-418? urethane adhesive for glass to frame.? ?bad memory? thought it was butyl
? got it at either napa or amazon.
ss is single strength glass and ds is double stength.
?by your descrition we have the same type windows
the glass in these is tempered ss
--
rz