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Re: Accessing the front center clearance lights, 1991 toyhouse
I did what rz?suggested.
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On Tuesday, August 13, 2024, 12:29 PM, rz <zaveson@...> wrote:
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Accessing the front center clearance lights, 1991 toyhouse
Looking for suggestions on the best and safest way to access the center front clearance light on a 1991 Winnebago Warrior toyhouse.
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At 230 pounds weight, standing on the hood is probably not a good idea.? :-O
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Any other suggestions?
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Thanks...
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Eric in NH
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Re: Tachometer for toyhouse
Hi, I bought a pillar mount to use with two temp gauges but decided not to use on 1985 Toyota Dolphin 22re, It was molded and would not really line up. I was then thinking of just mounting the 2 in gauge cups to the existing molding.. Have a trans temp and digital engine temp gauge I may do this in future. They are currently mounted by front speaker and until I put a screw in would always pop out when I brushed by with my leg. I can see both gauges while driving so may keep where they are for now. Pete |
Re: 1991 Warrior - What is this thing in the taillight wiring?
Hi, I would comment the blue clips on the wires near the ??? are likely to get corroded and cause interruptions. I always solder wires. I have heard some who say soldering isn't a guarantee. This is BS. The only place a well soldered joint will fail is if temps reach the melting point of solder or strain from vibration. Not at all likely in road vehicles. Pete |
Re: Scary ineffective lousy brakes on 1986 NIssan D21 Hardbody Sunrader
On my 1985 Toyota Dolphin 22 re I had a nightmare of issues with my brakes about 10 or 15 years ago. I got the master cylinder changed but the mechanic didn't bleed it so I was driving around with horrible brakes because I'd have to go all the way to the floor in order to stop, so eventually I learned how to bleed the master cylinder where you disconnect the two lines, front and rear lines, and then use a little tube or a salvage brake line about 9 inches long on each of the front and rear line holes on the master cylinder then you put the other end of the of the line into underneath the level of the brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoirs, then you have someone pump the brakes slowly for about a few times and that should bleed the master cylinder of all the air in it. Then you have to connect the rear and front lines to the master cylinder and then they have to bleed the brakes in the proper order probably starting from the furthest to the closest to the master cylinder on the vehicle. My brakes aren't anything great now anyway but at least they stop front and rear, on my mom's 78 Chinook Toyota the brakes were perfect right up there as soon as you start stepping on the brake they would react where mine are now for some reason I have no idea they don't start breaking till about halfway pressed. Don't know if that's an adjustment on the pedal itself or I'm still thinking about that. On the no start issue it would be helpful to know if you mean the starter motor doesn't run meaning the electricity isn't getting to the starter motor or is it a no start with the engine cranking it doesn't start that's an important thing to know to get help with it. In my opinion bypassing the neutral start switch that's on the transmission helped my problem of no start immensely and I've never had a no start ever since I bypassed it I had other things going on originally why it wouldn't start but once I put a wire from the ignition switch to the solenoid on the starter motor I haven't had any issues you might try that. Take care, Pete |
Re: Scary ineffective lousy brakes on 1986 NIssan D21 Hardbody Sunrader
Kinda of later in the conversation.?
1 There is only Master Cylinder, it has 2 sides front and rear. Your mechanic said that your original did not have any pressure to the front brakes, does the new one have front pressure? It should be checked at the master cylinder AND at one of the front brake calipers. Got one place and not the other... pinched brake line.
2. The vacuum booster is easy to check, unhook the vacuum line from the engine to the booster. Plug it off where it goes to the engine, Drive and check brakes. No change?? the booster moves up the list of bad possibilities. |
Re: Scary ineffective lousy brakes on 1986 NIssan D21 Hardbody Sunrader
It appears that Linda may be right, looking at the parts diagram at nissanpartsdeal, for a 1988 dually chassis, it does show a load sensing valve in a breakaway diagram, whether that's an option for the dually or a generic diagram covering all chassis, I don't know.
Aaron from Colorado |
Re: Scary ineffective lousy brakes on 1986 NIssan D21 Hardbody Sunrader
OK, Linda, I was wrong, it is not of the style with the ball, apparently only the Nissan 720's had that type. I have a PDF of a 1989 D21 Chassis, it shows a load sensing valve connected to the rear axle.
Everything else I said still applies. Aaron from Colorado |
Re: Scary ineffective lousy brakes on 1986 NIssan D21 Hardbody Sunrader
Factory brake shoes are still available
https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-shoe-set-rr~44060-10w25.html?vin=&make=Nissan&model=Hardbody%20Pickup%20(D21)&year=1987&submodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=(1=WT;2=VG30;3=DX%2fE;4=AT;5=R4;6=LB;7=2WD;8=FED)
Let me guess. The ones you bought that didn't fit were Centric.?
Linda S |
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