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One thing that comes to mind for me is a power brake booster failure. I*t causes the brake pedal to be hard to push than if it was strictly manual brakes. However, I am not sure the Nissan had such a booster. My 89 Toyota has such a booster.

Update to my subject line.? Thanks to your posts, I did determine that the brake booster was behaving as you described it should be.? But the brakes did not lock up.? I did drive it to the very small annual Quartzsite Rally (6 rigs) and Steve White took it for a drive, and brakes did not lock up for him either, on pavement and the unpaved RV park grounds.? Steve said "There is something definitely wrong with the rear brakes, take it to a brake place or truck repair.? It may cost me $800 but it will be done for the rest of my life".? I already got turned down by many shops, who refuse to deal with RVs, and those that would, refuse Nissan trucks (claiming too much trouble and hard to work on, but accept Toyota trucks).??

Last week I called my local 5 Yelp star rated Brake Masters.? As soon as I said 3 words to Paul who'd been working there almost 20 years, he knew who I was and my little Toyota RV I'd taken there over 10 years ago.? Sadly Paul said he no longer works on RVs, even one as small as mine, cos "We lose money EVERY time on RVs, because they never seem to get fixed, full of complications.? Tell you the truth I wouldn't do another RV even for my own best friend!!!"

? Last Wed I drove my 1995 Corolla wagon to my second home in San Diego, where I have a much larger problem with my 1982 Toyota Sunrader, which I will post here after I post this.? ?So I won't be able to take Nissan Sunrader to a truck repair place till I get back to AZ maybe in May.? I am going to print out all your diligent speculations and responses to my brake problem on this forum, and take to the willing shop.? Thank you all who posted about my brake problem.? I will report results found.

Meanwhile the other problem with the Nissan is that it won't start on occasion.? When I was 30 miles before reaching Quartzsite, I stopped at a Pilot truck stop to get gas.? After I pumped gas, the Nissan would not start.? It was in the afternoon, and maybe 60 degrees.? Well, long story short I had to spend the night at that gas pump, cos as I posted, "it always starts on another day".?

Next morning wouldn't start by 11 am so I called tow truck to tow me to Quartzsite.? Took another 3 hours to find me a provider willing to tow small RV, who had to drive 70 miles from California to come get me.? I told him "Wait before you hook up, lemmie show you what happens when I try to start it".? ? Well, Murphy's Law, it started immediately!!!? I got out of having to pay the $90 for extra miles over 15 by filing dispute with my credit card company.? Steve White looked into No Start issue too, and he posted update what he did under subj "Nissan D21 hardbody Sunrader won't start."
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Julia - Scottsdale, AZ

so... i find water inside the frames of the windows-? mine is a dolphin-? ?i can see places where the rtv is missing.??
i used the tape to seal to the coach, and? dupont betaseal u-418? urethane adhesive for glass to frame.? ?bad memory? thought it was butyl
? got it at either napa or amazon.
ss is single strength glass and ds is double stength.
?by your descrition we have the same type windows
the glass in these is tempered ss
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rz

hey doug, i know the rtv is a bad idea as i used it on all the windows. less than a year later they all leak. the rtv seams to have shrunk.? i did redo my overcab front glass because the plastic bubble window broke in half. i used some butyl auto bedding in a caulk tube to bed the clear poly i replaced the bubble with?
?couldn't use glass as anything better than ss is too thick, and being in front it needed at least laminated ds .? so far the butyl was no different to apply, and
so far no leaks
? ?randy
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rz

Robert, thanks for your response.?
I have the glass out of the metal frame. If you look at the other postings I have made on this issue, you’ll see about where I’m at.
One thing I haven’t mentioned yet though is that the construction of the metal/aluminum frame isn’t entirely/perfectly symmetrical,
nor is the glass cut out of a cookie cutter. The frame on mine seems to have distorted a little where the corners are bent, so that there ends up being a bit more space in those areas and that could cause leakage. Also since each piece of glass is cut separately, and sanded some it seems to me that the positioning of the window into the frame can be done in one of four ways. I’ve tried mine in two of those positions, ie. lifting the glass out of the frame and leaving the same side up, rotating the glass horizontally 180 degrees. Neither of those first two have worked out well enough to get the glazing in all the way around, so I will be flipping the glass over and trying the two I haven’t gotten to yet. ?Any suggestions you have will be appreciated on any of this stuff.

Can you suggest a specific product for sealing the glass to the frame that will take up little or no measurable space?

rz, tell me why you think there’s something wrong with rtv. ?That’s an alternative I have been considering. Read my response to Linda in this thread and you’ll see why I’m not so keen on butyl. It’s a great sealant, but it seems to take up too much room, so you can easily end up not being able to get the rubber glazing strip in place. Please tell me about what butyl product you are considering as I would much rather have butyl in there if I can find something very thin. ?Just a bead of clear silicone might do the trick, I’m asking around.

Buzz, Thanks for your reply. ?

?Linda is right about the configuration of the Sunrader rear window. Check out my response to her about this and you’ll get a better idea of what I’m dealing with. ??

Yes I did Linda, ?back in 2017. Back then I followed your advice and used a “ribbon” of butyl tape you suggested, between the glass and the frame. That stuff was really great for waterproofing and also for keeping the glass from ever falling out, but it was hell to squeeze down far enough to get the rubber glazing to fit into both the glass and the frame at the same time. It took a lot of work with a heat gun (even on a hot August day in So. Cal) to soften it up enough to get the rubber glazing ?in place. Even then, after awhile the glazing started coming out. The bright side, it wasn’t going to let the window come out even with the rubber glazing completely out of there.?

But now 5-1/2 years later, I’ve decided it’s time for a redo, and I took the window off of the shell and and the glass out of the frame, and cleaned everything up real nice. I bought some new glazing rubber (I thought was the right one) from Pelland and although There’s another option which I ordered today, I’m not happy with the results I’m getting test fitting the first one. #1 it barely fits in place with nothing between the glass and the frame, and #2 it bunches up going around the corners. So even if the fit was perfect on the straight sections, the corners would surely let water in, and without any sealant between the glass and the frame water would get past the window.?

So, having been told by a guy at Trimlok that those windows were supposed to “just fall out” if you took the rubber out, no sealant required, I’m not at all comfortable without any sealant between the glass and the frame on mine because so far, I can’t depend on the rubber I’ve tried to stay in.

I like what you said briefly to Buzz I think, about “sealant similar to windshield sealant”, I guess I’ll need to google that.
If you know of a specific product that can go on very thinly, I’d like to know about that. ?

i just found out i should not have used black rtv to bed the glass.? now i have to reseal all of them with butyl rubber bedding
like i should have done in the first place
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rz

Buzz I have never seen an RV window constructed as you describe. No sandwich of frame enclosing the glass. Glass is completely held in place by sealant similar to windshield sealant and stabilized with window glazing bead. The only screws involved are in the trim ring which holds the frame to the camper walls .
Linda S

Doug, I thought you did. Didn't you reset the glass on your big window?
Linda S

If it's like the rear glass on the 1986 Dolphin 500 (rear dinette) I used to own,
it is no different than any of the other coach windows.

The glass is the "filling" of a sandwich with the inner and outer as the "bread."

To take out the glass, you remove all the screws holding the inner and outer frames
together. Reinstallation is the reverse of removal. Because the rear window is so
large, this job should probably be done with two people. One to remove the scews
and the other to hold the glass in place.

Also, if you are removing the window, it's a good idea to clean off the old putty
sealing the outer window frame and install fresh putty tape.

Good luck,

Buzz L.
Phoenix, AZ
Former 1986 Dollphin, 1989 HiLux, and 1996 Tacoma owner

Has anyone had the glass out of the frame, (and put it back in) on Sunrader rear dinette models?
Any words of wisdom you can share about your experience getting it back in?

Hi, I am sorry Tika, I have not been on Toyota Campers for years it seems. I just realized that Toyota Motorhome Club on Facebook is not a continuation of Toyota Campers Group. I had to dig in my yahoo emails to find Toyota Campers Group. I have really appreciated the info available in this group. I hope that the moderators here think about posting about this group on Facebook Toyota Motorhome Club maybe once a month. There is a great files section here that has accumulated lots of good info over the years. I put my 1985 Dolphin Manual there. Take care everybody.

The transmission on the 22re engine is designed with a switch that automatically disables the overdrive when you drive to high elevations. ?Usually it de-activates starting at about 4000 to 4500 feet. ?If you are actually in the Netherlands at almost sea level, then it sounds like that switch is faulty.

Always go by the tire pressure that is on the sides of your tires as a guide. ?Fill to no less than 85%. ?If they are 65 lb tires, then 55 lb to 60 lb is a good pressure. ?Any less than that and the rear tires can start to rub together if there is any unnoticed loss of pressure. ?If the tires are rated less (like 50 lbs), then fill to 85-90% of that.

Hi, I'm from the Netherlands and here is local few to no info on my Toyota Sunrader. It's a 87 2,4 efi automatic. I bought it a few months ago and did 2 trips.
I think there is a issue with the overdrive, it does not respond to the switch on the gear selector, since it has never worked I don't know if it is always on or off, the OD light above the radio burns when switching on the lights.

Other question, what is the preferred Tyre pressure for the 6 lugs rear axle?

I hope someone can help

Thanks Paul