Re: Self Test failures from New TinySA Ultra --- Amazon purchase of ZeenKo unit from SDRGEEK Store
SDRGREEK STORE is not on the approved WiKi list of dealers it may be possible that you may, have a knock-off or clone.
Which selftest failed? Did you preform the signal level setup? Did you connect port 1 and 2 correctly? Did you turn on the calibration signal to 30khz?
You need to give more info than just the selftest failed.
Clyde KC7BJE
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Self Test failures from New TinySA Ultra --- Amazon purchase of ZeenKo unit from SDRGEEK Store
Just received the TinySA Ultra and it fails the self test.
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Didn't see all of the comments about clones until I tried to set the unit up,? but need to know if any other users have any experience from this ZeenKo unit from this Amazon seller,? SDRGEEK store?
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Thanks
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Alex
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Re: Tiny SA Ultra sweep generator
The Ultra trigger output is at least 10 dB lower
--
Designer of the tinySA
For more info go to
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Re: Tiny SA Ultra sweep generator
The Sync Signal from TinySA works fine to trigger the sope. I always use it to align filters. This doesn't work with The Ultra
Von meinem/meiner Galaxy gesendet
-------- Urspr¨¹ngliche Nachricht -------- Von: "pphillipsd via groups.io" <pphillipsd@...> Datum: 19.11.24 17:20 (GMT+01:00) Betreff: [tinysa] Tiny SA Ultra sweep generator
I have a Tiny? SA Ultra that works fine.
I understand that in the Tiny, internally there is a sawtooth sync with the seep generator that allows to control the X axis of a scope to sync the sweep.
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What about the Ultra?
Is available a sawtooth or a sync pulse asociated with the sweep repetition rate?
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Best regards
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Re: Tiny SA Ultra sweep generator
Thanks a lot for the informati¨®n
Best regrds
El mar, 19 nov 2024 a las 13:21, Erik Kaashoek via (<erik= [email protected]>) escribi¨®: Both models can only provide a small pulse from the CAL output at the start of a sweep
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Designer of the tinySA
For more info go to
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Re: Tiny SA Ultra sweep generator
Both models can only provide a small pulse from the CAL output at the start of a sweep
--
Designer of the tinySA
For more info go to
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Tiny SA Ultra sweep generator
I have a Tiny? SA Ultra that works fine.
I understand that in the Tiny, internally there is a sawtooth sync with the seep generator that allows to control the X axis of a scope to sync the sweep.
?
What about the Ultra?
Is available a sawtooth or a sync pulse asociated with the sweep repetition rate?
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Best regards
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Re: Choosing an attenuator
Instead of using attenuators which should preserve the harmonic but can be expensive why not buy, build, swap meet to find a directional over a 10:1 frequency range with the coupled port relatively flat with -10, -20, -30 or -40 dB coupling ratio on the coupled port.? Just be sure the coupled port is terminated in a good non-reactive 50-ohm load and the through port is also terminated in a good non-reactive (over your frequency range) dummy load.? Directional coupler are also good for measuring SWR.
Assuming a -40 dB ratio on the coupled port, you will still need attenuators between the coupled port and the TinySA.? However, at -40 dB from 100-watts (10 mW or +10 dBm), you're starting out with your attenuator only requiring 2 or less watts.? Those are far more available and far less expensive.? And they will assure a good non-reactive termination on the coupled port.
Dave - W?LEV
Here are some usable youtube videos about building a RF sampler so you can use a regular dummy load
One uses a transformer, the other just some resistors
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--
Designer of the tinySA
For more info go to
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Locked
Re: Possible design issue with TinySA Ultra.
Not to mention that when first applied CA glue can outgas and adhere a film to areas where it can cause problems. I first learned about this some years ago when a co-worker accidentally discovered that CA glue on a shop rag generated visible fumes, which subsequently adhered to and exposed fingerprints on clear plastic. We had fun playing with this notion for half an hour or so then went back to work and did not give it another thought. Some years later I read that law enforcement was testing a promising new method of fingerprint recovery using CA fumes. Dammit.... I tend to avoid using it in electronics if possible. On Mon, 18 Nov 2024 14:35:07 +0100 "Igor Feher via groups.io" <igor.feher@...> wrote: Another issue is cyanoacrylate glues are great for static fusing, where you
don't ever touch it again or surfaces are large and allow adhesive to stick
while being rigid. Any flex or stress and CA glue will come off eventually
even if it feels rigid at first. Adding soda powder or something similar
can make it better for some situations. -- 73 -Jim NU0C
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Re: Choosing an attenuator
In the professional arena directional couplers are used, which are basically similar to the links from Erik, but you still need a dummy load for the power you need to dissipate. Quite often directional couplers can be picked up at HAM fests quite cheap and can easily be checked with a VNA, be sure to terminate any unused ports when checking or in use.? ?Whatever method used, it should be checked with a VNA and double checked before applying power. The more power the greater chance of causing damage to the SA or attenuators.
The trouble with long attenuator chains is that each has a tolerance that add ups and will vary with frequency
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if you have a good VNA you can measure the thing and note the attenuation at fundamental and each harmonic frequency but it¡¯s not as easy as LEGO?
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A good high power 40dB attenuator is a good investment then one more standard 2W will usually do the trick?
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Locked
Re: Possible design issue with TinySA Ultra.
I occasionally use Bicarbonate Soda as a bulking / accelerant agent with CA glue, but I do worry about it's long term stability, conductivity, pH, and overall suitability when used with electronic circuits.
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Hot melt glue would be my preferred method, or for extra support, drill holes though the PCB, and insert some stiff wire supports, soldered to the connector body, and wrapped under the PCB to form a loop, with the ends soldered together too.
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Regards,
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Martin
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On Mon, Nov 18, 2024 at 01:35 PM, Igor Feher wrote:
Adding soda powder or something similar can make it better for some situations.
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Re: Choosing an attenuator
Here are some usable youtube videos about building a RF sampler so you can use a regular dummy load
One uses a transformer, the other just some resistors
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--
Designer of the tinySA
For more info go to
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Re: Choosing an attenuator
Yes! Some sense I see finally! The other issue is wanting to test radios at full 100 Watt (even 50) output! Even a 3db attenuator has to dissipate 50 watts (out of 100) which is not trivial and so expensive!?
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Locked
Re: Possible design issue with TinySA Ultra.
Previous post makes me feel a bit uncomfortable for no other reason than I don't want to give wrong advice. In my experience PCBs can be very fragile due to various factors, not just PCB qualities, design etc. I don't like gluing anything to a PCB unless it can come off without peeling off the copper layer, hot glue is fine for example, anything you can dissolve/release or just use force, like two sided tape etc.
Another issue is cyanoacrylate glues are great for static fusing, where you don't ever touch it again or surfaces are large and allow adhesive to stick while being rigid. Any flex or stress and CA glue will come off eventually even if it feels rigid at first. Adding soda powder or something similar can make it better for some situations. That is just my personal experience with the assumption that there are many people that actually have opposing experiences with seemingly same problems due to variations in conditions. I believe my solution is at least as good as one with CA on MB but personally I would go with mine.
I think the occasional problem with this connector coming away is largely caused by the actual diameter of the 3.5 Jack insertion hole. It is just a bit on the small size. This causes some (but not all) Jack plugs to be a very tight friction fit, thus causing excessive insertion/withdrawal forces and subsequent stress on the SMD pads.?
IMHO. A very small drop of cyano glue is perfect. It will wick under the connector body and bond very strongly to the PCB. Also, use good old proper full fat leaded solder!? Peter
-- SOFTECH, IGOR FEHER S.P.
Liminjanska cesta 96
6320 Portoro?
Slovenija
Tel: +386 41 872 601
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Locked
Re: Possible design issue with TinySA Ultra.
I think the occasional problem with this connector coming away is largely caused by the actual diameter of the 3.5 Jack insertion hole. It is just a bit on the small size. This causes some (but not all) Jack plugs to be a very tight friction fit, thus causing excessive insertion/withdrawal forces and subsequent stress on the SMD pads.?
IMHO. A very small drop of cyano glue is perfect. It will wick under the connector body and bond very strongly to the PCB. Also, use good old proper full fat leaded solder! ?Peter
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Locked
Re: Possible design issue with TinySA Ultra.
Super glue will just crack. It is useless. Epoxy will return to original position and will flex with chasis. I would not glue it ti MB but chasis and connect pins with thin lacquered wires, like transformer wire of appropriate gauge. Remember to remove lacquer as it is an isolatior, that is its intended purpose. That way little flex and give will accomodate forces transfer in to chasis mostly, epoxy can handle that if done on cleaned surface, mixed properly, clamped until dry. Wires can flex and will not break but even if they do replacememt is trivial.
You can leave wires bit longer and use regular wires 0.3, 0.4 mm for industrial usage, solid wire. It has to be soft and flexible. Cheap or hard wires will not do.
I would have thought that something elastic is the last thing that you want, any movement is likely to stress the solder joints leading them to eventually fracture.
Jeff G8HUL
________________________________________
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Igor Feher via <igor.feher=[email protected]>
Sent: 17 November 2024 12:08
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [tinysa] Possible design issue with TinySA Ultra.
Super glue will not hold. Use something elastic that does not melt plastic. Something like composite glue, by far the best choice. If you want extra strength and flexibility (and you will need it) drench something like tissue paper or microfiber cloth (white fibers not actual cloth) in epoxy in it and use it between connector and plastic. Fibers do wonders when mixed with epoxy, think carbon fibres, same thing or fiberglass. Can get a bit messy and removing the connector from the chassis is not an option unless you apply small patches of fibre/epoxy. Don't let it drip into the connector but if it does WAIT until it dries and then scrape it off. If you smear wet epoxy over contacts you will have a much harder time removing it and it will clog the space around pins forever.
On Sun, Nov 17, 2024 at 12:11?PM Clyde Lambert via <> <clyde.lambert=[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
Yes. That is if you don't want a chance of the socket ripping off the pcb when inserting a headphone plug.
I definitely did mine as the jack was hard to insert the plug in.
It's called preventative action. It is very easy to do.
Clyde KC7BJE
--
SOFTECH, IGOR FEHER S.P.
6320 Portoro?
Slovenija
E-po?ta: igor.feher@...<mailto:igor.feher@...>
Tel: +386 41 872 601
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Re: Choosing an attenuator
Can I suggest stick to dBm, using dBw, dBc etc
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dBm is the right measure for most questions,
dBc is a very simple concept for harmonic measurement and just gives a name to the reduction vs carrier
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The mess of dBw, dBuv and so on is best avoided as it drives even professional engineers crazy?
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Re: Choosing an attenuator
The trouble with long attenuator chains is that each has a tolerance that add ups and will vary with frequency
?
if you have a good VNA you can measure the thing and note the attenuation at fundamental and each harmonic frequency but it¡¯s not as easy as LEGO?
?
A good high power 40dB attenuator is a good investment then one more standard 2W will usually do the trick?
|
Locked
Re: Possible design issue with TinySA Ultra.
I would have thought that something elastic is the last thing that you want, any movement is likely to stress the solder joints leading them to eventually fracture. Jeff G8HUL ________________________________________ From: [email protected] < [email protected]> on behalf of Igor Feher via groups.io <igor.feher@...> Sent: 17 November 2024 12:08 To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [tinysa] Possible design issue with TinySA Ultra. Super glue will not hold. Use something elastic that does not melt plastic. Something like composite glue, by far the best choice. If you want extra strength and flexibility (and you will need it) drench something like tissue paper or microfiber cloth (white fibers not actual cloth) in epoxy in it and use it between connector and plastic. Fibers do wonders when mixed with epoxy, think carbon fibres, same thing or fiberglass. Can get a bit messy and removing the connector from the chassis is not an option unless you apply small patches of fibre/epoxy. Don't let it drip into the connector but if it does WAIT until it dries and then scrape it off. If you smear wet epoxy over contacts you will have a much harder time removing it and it will clog the space around pins forever. On Sun, Nov 17, 2024 at 12:11?PM Clyde Lambert via groups.io<> <clyde.lambert@...<mailto: [email protected]>> wrote: Yes. That is if you don't want a chance of the socket ripping off the pcb when inserting a headphone plug. I definitely did mine as the jack was hard to insert the plug in. It's called preventative action. It is very easy to do. Clyde KC7BJE -- SOFTECH, IGOR FEHER S.P. Liminjanska cesta 96 6320 Portoro? Slovenija E-po?ta: igor.feher@...<mailto:igor.feher@...> Tel: +386 41 872 601
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Re: TinySA Ultra with PC control
You might try going into Device Manager / USB Controllers / USB---Hub / Power Management and unchecking "Allow the computer to turn this device off".
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John? k0ebc
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Clyde Lambert
Jim Shorney
Bruce Akhurst