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That is certainly not the way most manufacturers, including Mini Circuits, specify their attenuators. A 100W attenuator will be spec'd at 100W CW max input power , usually at 25 degrees C with a

For many measurements TX side, build yourself an 60, 80 or even a 100+dB RF tap (Contact me diredctly for build instructions) as I think they are way outside the scope of this channel. They can also

Hi Dave, Your comments are absolutely correct for 3dB attenuators. Why the obsession with 3dB attenuators in these discussions, I do not know! Why would you use a 3 dB attenuator for measurements on a

Hi， Now I want to add the function of wireless data transfer to the computer on tinysa, is there a better solution

The small SMA attenuators are symmetrical. SU stand for Semi United the company that makes them.

Hi Mike, Lucky you, but in essense it seems that you are saying the same as me. The TinySA and NanoVNA are tremendous pieces of equipment (even more so for the price point). No way would they compare

Erik and others were right - you cannot brick the TinySA. I deleted cube 2.16 and replaced it with 2.15. I should have exercised some quality control time before rushing to program. As originally and

Hi Paul, Just a little tongue in cheek, but I happen to have a couple of Agilent N9342N (aka: HP dc to daylight spec anal) that track in the ballpark of $12k and weigh a 'ton'. Certainly can't put

The only time that I have had a problem updating the firmware was on a cloned device. Even then, following the advive from the wiki and shorting the two pins at power-on and starting again worked for

Not sure why nobody has mentioned the lines from the wiki that say:

I actually bought a set of 1,2,3,6,10,20,30,40dB attenuators, advertised as 2W? DC-8G from aliexpress (So cheap that I thought that if they are junk then I will just file 13 them). I tested them on

This has been pointed out previously by another ham. If one starts with 100-watts from the transmitter in CW, RTTY, or the digital modes, what is dissipated in a 3 dB attenuator? NOT the full

you're twisting my words around - thanks a lot

Just install the TinySA app on your PC, get that running and then not only do you have extended features and control via a much larger GUI on your PC screen, you can also update the firmware with just

From the command line, use: dfu-util -d 0483:df11 -a 0 -s 0x08000000:leave -D ./tinySA4_v1.4-72-gf8c2707.bin That's on Linux, but there are Win32, Win64, Linux AMD64, and Darwin (Mac) binaries in this

"But it only works if everything goes right." Ummm, well, yeah. Same with rocket science, brain surgery, and your morning drive to work. I've been upgrading firmwares since the first PCs with FLASH

I want to update my firmware! But it only works if everything goes right. That almost never happens. The process is not designed for normal people to do. It reminds me of what I had to do when I

That too depends. I've purchased INMET and Mini-Circuits product on eBay. All seem to be as advertised. "Bruce Hawkins via groups.io" <ac6dn@...> wrote: -- 73 -Jim NU0C

I suggest the opposite... If the radios output is 100w. Then absolute minimum wattage is 100 Watts. That's ok if you don't transmit longer than few seconds. Otherwise I'd choose, at least, twice the

Why on earth is there a must to whinge about updates? Rick KC3DOO