/g/tinysa/message/4299

Eric,

I will be placing orders to Digi-Key and Mouser? for winter projects. I would like to add the ESD suppressors to my TinySA. Can you please provide manufacturer info and part numbers?

Thanks,

Mike N2MS

On Sat, Oct 23, 2021 at 12:41 AM, <sculacli@...> wrote:

1)?I can't find the history of hardware revisions anywhere. Thus far it seems the "hardware" V0.3 and V0.3.1_ are the versions showing up online. Are both of them legitimate? What are the hardware differences and the differences in their electrical performances?

Performance of both versions is identical. The V0.3.1_E version has additional protection against static electricity at the inputs

It's a 2 part question:
1)?I can't find the history of hardware revisions anywhere. Thus far it seems the "hardware" V0.3 and V0.3.1_ are the versions showing up online. Are both of them legitimate? What are the hardware differences and the differences in their electrical performances?

2) Are some of these versions clones:
For example, the RLelectronics (the recommended USA store) shows the V0.3 with white-ish sticker (image attached). Is that a legit copy? It seems to resemble the clone warning on the wiki.
Amazon on the other hand is full of V0.3.1_ with black sticker (see image attached) which seems like clones, as they have strange names. E.g. TinySA Karagas, TinySA AUSINC, TinySA SEESII, etc. Maybe those are store names but they strangely put them in the title.

Thanks in advance!

To all that may have interest in the high frequency range of this . Pleas make sure you read the spec and understand the? consequences and be sure you can accept the limitations

Thanks Erik, the problem is solved!

Phew, for a moment I thought my brand new TinaSA was faulty :-)
I have much to learn about my new toy and your videos are very helpful - thanks for that!

See this video from about 5 minutes from start

Help please.

I'm trying to analyze signals in the 400KHz - 2Mhz range but am getting this strange staircase-like response on the TinySA - see the poor-quality image attached.
Regardless of what I try (adjust attenuation, changing RBW, etc.) I cannot get rid of the noise. It is not caused by interference because I'v moved around in the house with no change of the display.

Any ideas of what the problem is?

I'm using a genuine TinySA with FW V1.3-317

I paid a total of 175 US$ with shipping and taxes.

I think that the original 99 US$ price was only for the initial batch and is not really a realistic price. You have to consider that you get a 6GHz signal generator and mixer in a milled aluminium case.

Regards,
Vitor

PS: I have nothing to do with them or moRFeus, I just happen to own one! You can buy any signal generator and mixer and it will work.

Ronald,
No need to apologize, It was simply a request to make it clear to all the context of the messages.? It helps to keep confusion and misinterpretation out of the thread.

Thank you for posting and sharing.
73
Evan
AC9TU

My apoligies Evan,

I'm new here, and due to not refreshing my screen - i missed some posts..

On Thu, Oct 21, 2021 at 02:04 AM, <frikandelmetmayo@...> wrote:

Correct.
The amp i'm using has 2 BLF368's capable of doing 300 watt each for an analog signal.
Bias is set for lineair operation

frikandelmetmayo,
Who are you referring to in the above message?? It is always best to give some sort of identifier at the start of your reply as I did in this message.? you do not need to do include the quoted text, but the name (or email address in this case) helps us readers follow the thread.? This is because there can be other messages between the one that you are replying to and your response.

It is also customary to sign your message, as this is what is normally used in the response.

73
Evan
AC9TU

Correct.
The amp i'm using has 2 BLF368's capable of doing 300 watt each for an analog signal.
Bias is set for lineair operation

On Tue, Oct 19, 2021 at 08:47 AM, <frikandelmetmayo@...> wrote:

Did some tried to measure a DAB signal already?

I have never measured one, and having never had to design or repair a DAB, I don't really know a lot about them.? However, one of the first things I do when asked about something I don't know a lot about is to consult with somebody that does know a lot about it.? According to Rohde & Schwarz, this is not a particularly easy thing to measure:

"The high dynamic range of the signal after the mask filter makes it impossible to check
adherence to the tolerance mask directly using a spectrum analyzer. This is why an
adjustable notch filter is typically used to reduce the useful band power."

Their list of required equipment includes:

"For Shoulder Attenuation and Adjacent Channel Emissions measurements
(3.3.1) using the variant 'after mask filter'
Notch filter to attenuate the wanted signal by 40 dB or more"
Source:
https://cdn.rohde-schwarz.com/pws/dl_downloads/dl_application/application_notes/7bm104/7BM104_1E.pdf

As I said, I'm not the expert on this.? But I'm inclined to accept Rohde & Schwarz's opinion on this.? I'd probably start by building a notch filter to take out much of the in-channel power.? You might try an open quarter wave coaxial stub at the channel center frequency to start with.

On any of my recent laptops, I had to purchase a USB 2.0 hub to plug into any of the USB 3.0 ports on a recent PC, then plug the TinySA into the hub in order for it to be recognized correctly. It seems the TinySA was not correctly negotiating the the USB 3/2 connection and “downshifting” into USB 2.0 mode.

Inserting the strictly USB 2.0 hub in the chain provided a USB 2.0 connection to the TinySA without having it struggle with whatever was failing with the negotiation process. This provided a reliable connection for me and I was able to do firmware updates without a problem.

Steve

开云体育

178eur for a niche RF product in a machined shell is not too outrageous.
More than what I' d be willing to pay for a hobby device, but perfectly ok if you are not comfortable homebrewimg one from junkbox parts and ebay modules like I did for my 50-5000MHz downconverter.