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Range it will be. ------------------------------------------ For more info on the tinySA go to https://tinysa.org/wiki/

I second "Range".? Second choice would be "Sweep" which is a term a firmware writer for the NanoVNA selected -- but Range would have been better there also.

I propose "range".? This term is often used on test equipment. Roger

Hi, Thanks for posting that. I saw the price on the linked site at eBay. I can't afford to send 25 pounds of money but I found the same thing (runs on 125 volts AC) for only a few dollars <sly grin>.

I propose (frequency) STEP

Hi Steve, The PE4302 QFN24 encapsulated IC is worth nothing with tweezers. You need a hot air gun here. Indeed, in the case of a two-point soldered part, the tweezers may be used in some cases. A very

I forgot to mention that you also need a syringe of flux and some solvent to clear the board afterwards. If you want to look at videos by the hundred on these techniques, search on utube for repairs

I have been following this thread with interest........ I have not yet damaged any of my TinySA or nanovna collection. I suppose I am inherently careful with input overload. If in doubt, a 10db

For SMD components I use one of these (mine is model number 959. This might be the

Maybe MaxSpan?

Hello Erik, Keeping SPAN is OK for me. 73, Rudi DL5FA

A long tap on the frequency button away from the slider indicator activates the mode in which you can set the frequency range of the slider. It can be set very small (1kHz) so you can control the

Will do, and Thank You!

It is a ground connection (usually) and a heat sink. The Sparkfun page covers these in one of the tutorials. Be sure to read through the comments at the end. 73 -Jim NU0C "stefan baartman"

Hi Jim, I didn't realize the attenuator has a solder slug on the bottom. That could certainly complicate things somewhat. I have ordered 0.2mm tips for my Weller WP-25, some braid and Kapton tape. I

I'm glad no one told me that when I was learning how to do it. :) 73 -Jim NU0C "Bill Retzner" <billretzner@...> wrote:

A better solution to try using a heat gun in tight places. Try using a product called CHIPQUIK (SMD1). All you need is your soldering iron. The product lowers the melting point of the existing solder.

As mentioned early on in this thread, I am sure that a heatgun is fine for stripping all the SMD components off of circuit boards. But heatguns have too much air flow for doing component level SMD

It may be counter-intuitive but that tip size is way too small for me. The reason is that the thermal mass is very small so you can end up cranking up the heat and/or taking more time to do the job,

Simple components are easy. Clear the pads of solder and tin one pad only with a small dab of fresh solder. Hold the part in place with tweezers and heat the tinned pad until the solder melts and