Hello,
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I have a tinySA Ultra+ and I would like to measure a 50ohm coax cable, anyone who can help me out how to do this? I guess you can use the CAL output in combination with the RF input? I would like to see how many dB loss I have in the range of lets say 470Mhz-600Mhz.
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Thanks!
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Locked
Re: Help ! Calling Ghostbusters.
On Tue, Apr 1, 2025 at 04:12 AM, Dave Daniel wrote:
How much metal is part of your home's costruction? Roof, exterior walls (metallized insulation, wire mesh under stucco, etc.), interior walls (are the studs wood or metal?), etc., etc.
I don't know for sure, but this is built to California earthquake safety standards, and most of the materials are flexible, ie. wood. The studs are wood. The roof is composition asphalt shingle, not metal. There are 70 solar panels as I mentioned, but only the frames are metal, likely light aluminum.
There are some large appliances with lots of metal. The kitchen is on the second floor, near the center of the property. Many of the wireless signals would have to pass through it. There is a 28 year old 48" Monogram fridge that came with the house and is still chugging along. I have been told by a repairman never to replace it, because it uses cheap, easily available analog parts, and the newer digital control units and less reliable with hard to find parts.? There is also a GE double oven.
There is a brick wall in the front of the house which I know interferes strongly with the Wifi signal for the 7 lightbulbs on the terrace. I moved an AP last week which improved the situation a lot, but there is still high packet loss - around 45% according to my smokeping data for the first 2 I just checked. I may need an outdoor AP to resolve this particular issue, unfortunately. It's a bit of a shame to dedicate an AP just for these 7 bulbs, and I don't currently own any outdoor rated model of AP.
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There are 4 chimneys with thick granite walls, large granite countertops on 2 floors, perhaps 1000sq ft of marble tiles on 3rd floor in the back of the house. The home theater downstairs has soundproof walls, but I'm not sure which materials are used for that. One of the two wired Wifi APs is in that room. APs in 2 adjacent rooms are still able to mesh with it with respectable signal strength.
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Locked
Re: Help ! Calling Ghostbusters.
On Tue, Apr 1, 2025 at 03:18 AM, G8HUL wrote:
Within radio range of each other.
Could you please be more specific ? Do you mean within radio range on the frequency they are supposed to operate on, at their set transmission power, through all obstacles that might be present ?
If so, it is not the case that all devices are within radio range.
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For example, it takes at least 4 APs to cover the indoors so that all 300 Wifi clients are able connect to Wifi. Many clients will still have low signal strength with just 4 APs. Outdoor clients have very marginal or no signal depending on AP placement. I used 6 APs for many years (5 NanoHD, 1 U6-Lite), but did not have any outdoor clients. I recently added 3 U6-LR. That has improved the coverage a lot. I am able to get all my Wifi devices to connect, but there are intermittent problems still with packet loss and disconnects, for some devices.
Only 2 of the APs are wired and the 7 others are meshed. They use two non-overlapping 80MHz non-DFS channels on the 5 GHz band for the backhaul. I have thought about wiring all the APs, but this will be expensive and unsightly as conduits would need to run outdoors for the Ethernet cables. I don't believe getting rid of the mesh backhaul would change much of anything given that 99% of the clients being 2.4 GHz IoT devices. The bandwidth utilization on the mesh backhaul is extremely low and is not the bottleneck Neither is the latency. However, because the APs are meshed, if I were to cut the power to some circuit breakers for testing purposes, the mesh would be broken and coverage would be reduced, unless all 9 APs were running on battery. Currently, only 2 of them are.
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Distant Z-Wave devices that go through several walls, especially more than 3 walls, also cannot connect directly to the controller. The only way they are able to connect is due to the of Z-Wave where each plug-in or hardwired device acts as a repeater. Again, if I were to cut off circuit breakers, the Z-Wave mesh would be broken, and many devices would be permanently unreachable, as opposed to intermittently.
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Re: Hunting Spurious Emission at 154 MHz
It is KHz it is likely SMPS noise. A signal in the MHz range you describe is more likely leakage from a reference crystal oscillator on the motherboard or a plug in card. On Tue, 01 Apr 2025 19:22:28 -0700 "Peter Finch via groups.io" <peterlewisfinch@...> wrote: I was exploring the VHF High public service bands (150 - 162 MHz) on my tinySA spectrum analyzer using the waterfall display. I noticed a very strong, very narrow, very clean unmodulated FM carrier at exactly 154MHz. I noticed the strength varied as I moved around the house but I could not locate a source on the end of the house with the strongest signal.
So I swapped to a small rubber ducky antenna on the tinySA and headed outside. The emission was clearly coming from a neighbor's house. Neighbor is a great guy so I knocked and we went looking for the source and suspected an older Windows PC desktop. He shut it down and the emission went away. Likely a failed filtering capacitor or choke in the switching power supply.
Don't know if he'll bother to fix or replace it, but I had fun hunting it down. I didn't think of it at the time but I may have been seeing a harmonic and probably should have checked 38.5 MHz using the tinySA MEASURE/HARMONIC tool as that is a more likely frequency from a failing switching power supply. Maybe next time he boots the PC...
Peter -- 73 -Jim NU0C
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Hunting Spurious Emission at 154 MHz
I was exploring the VHF High public service bands (150 - 162 MHz) on my tinySA spectrum analyzer using the waterfall display. I noticed a very strong, very narrow, very clean unmodulated FM carrier at exactly 154MHz. I noticed the strength varied as I moved around the house but I could not locate a source on the end of the house with the strongest signal.
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So I swapped to a small rubber ducky antenna on the tinySA and headed outside. The emission was clearly coming from a neighbor's house. Neighbor is a great guy so I knocked and we went looking for the source and suspected an older Windows PC desktop. He shut it down and the emission went away. Likely a failed filtering capacitor or choke in the switching power supply.
?
Don't know if he'll bother to fix or replace it, but I had fun hunting it down. I didn't think of it at the time but I may have been seeing a harmonic and probably should have checked 38.5 MHz using the tinySA MEASURE/HARMONIC tool as that is a more likely frequency from a failing switching power supply. Maybe next time he boots the PC...
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Peter
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Re: Enhancement Requests: File Management Sort By Name and Rename
I received a couple of PMs requesting the PowerShell script. It is attached. It only reorders the .psr files and leaves all other files alone. All the normal cautions apply:
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- Use at your own risk.
- No warranty or support expressed or implied.
- Make a backup of your tinySA sdcard before using this script.
- Edit the script with the location of your sdcard and the temp directory to use.
- If you don't understand the script, or don't know how to edit and run it, you probably shouldn't use it.
- Be sure to only remove and insert the sdcard into tinySA when it is turned off.
- Likewise, safely eject sdcard in Windows before removing it.
Peter
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Re: Input RF switch fault found on TinySA ultra
Greetings,
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I think the use hot air removal in this case, considering all the near by components, could be risky unless you happen to have the proper size hot air tool hood that fits the chip and contains the heat to the very small area. I would consider just nipping the leads off the chip body and then remove the remains of the leads, one at a time, using a fine tipped soldering iron and tweezers.
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As the chip package is of the leaded type with just a few leads as shown in the photo, and is known to be defective (thus of no value) you might consider the following approach using at minimum the following list of special tools and supplies:
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a) Magnification hood with LED headlight illumination that ensures a detailed view of the chip.
b) Miniature diagonal wire cutter plyers.
c) ?Teflon or similar tipped high temperature, low thermal conductivity tweezers.
d) Fine tipped, temperature controlled soldering iron.
e) Very fine solder.
f)? Isopropyl alcohol and Q tips?
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1) Remove the chip body by using the cutters to snip off all the leads close to the chip body.
2) Using the very fine tipped, temperature controlled soldering iron heat and remove the remaining leads with the tweezers one at a time.
3) Carefully remove the remaining old solder on the footprint pads with solder wick.
4) Using the Q tips clean the footprint area with isopropyl alcohol.
5) Examine the footprint carefully and ensure all the pads are isolated from each other.
6) Whilst ensuring the correct chip orientation solder in the new replacement chip by just wetting the pads using a minimal amount of solder
7) Inspect the install to ensure no adjacent pins have been accidentally bridged with solder.
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? ? ? I hope this info is found helpful and good luck!
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73
Tom
VA7TA
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Re: Defect Report: Restore Multi-Band from SD Does Not Restore RBW
Just noting this defect is still open.
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Also noting that the RBW is saved so if you select RBW on the left info section of the display it will show the correct RBW checked but won't actually be using it.
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Workaround 1 is just reselect the checked RBW.
Workaround 2 is disable and reenable multi-band and the correct RBW will be applied.
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Peter
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Locked
Re: Help ! Calling Ghostbusters.
It was March 31 in my timezone when I posted.
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Re: Input RF switch fault found on TinySA ultra
I managed to change U22 in my Tiny SA Ultra. I used an 852D+ hot air soldering station. Used hot air to remove old one and soldering iron and Ersin multicore? 23SWG solder to solder new one. Used a head band magnifier. Not the easiest thing I have ever replaced by far! As a result of my replacing U22 I have purchased a Digital microscope 1200X for the future. Take a shot at replacing it, if it all goes south, you can still get a new one.
On Tuesday, April 1, 2025 at 06:59:11 AM PDT, svkirk via groups.io <svkirk@...> wrote:
Hi there,
?
I would second the recommendation to use a hot-air station for this repair.? With some practice beforehand, you can become proficient enough to do it relatively easily.? We have a cheap hot-air station at work and I've been able to do some very intricate work with it once my skills improved.??
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A second method would be to use low-melt solder and a small soldering iron.? Low-melt solder has a much lower melting temperature than normal solder, so it stays liquified longer.? This allows all leads to be liquified at the same time so that you can remove the chip.? Here's what I'd recommend:? soak each lead with low-melt solder.? You're heating up the lead & "mixing" the low-melt solder with the existing solder on the lead, ultimately lowering the overall melting point.? If you want, you could even wick off the existing solder & then add the low melt.? But once all leads are soaked w/low-melt or the "mixture", move your iron around from lead to lead until all leads are liquid at the same time.? They will stay this way for several seconds, allowing you to remove the chip.? Normal solder won't do this.? As soon as you move to the second lead, the first one solidifies, and so on.? Next, clean the pads with solder braid & IPA - get them looking new so that all the low-melt solder is removed.? Then solder the new chip in place using NORMAL solder (not low-melt).? Low-melt is only for desoldering.
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A microscope is extremely helpful, but we don't have one at work.? I've done numerous repairs like this with only magnifying goggles/glasses or a headband magnifier - i.e. something you can wear on your head to keep your hands free.? I wouldn't mess around with one of those alligator clip magnifying glasses on a stand, though.? You probably won't be able to see well enough, you only get one spot that's visible, & they're tough to position just right.? So if you don't have a microscope & don't want to invest in one, go with the goggles/glasses and do the repair in a well lit room.??
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One more thing: use plenty of flux.? Flux is your friend when soldering.? If you don't use it, you'll get hit-or-miss solder joints, bridging, etc.??
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I've learned a ton from watching Alex on Northridge Fix's YouTube channel.? He's no-nonsense and he gives great information.? Watch a few of his repair videos - any of them, don't look for "LiteVNA repair" because he hasn't done any.? He uses a hot air station and/or low-melt solder in nearly every video so even if he's repairing laptops, it'll be relevant to you.? If you watch a few of them, it'll help you decide whether to try this yourself.? I'm not associated with him, nor do I get any benefit from recommending him.? I've just learned a lot from watching him.
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There are other good soldering channels out there on YouTube as well.? Mr. Solderfix comes to mind as another good option.
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I wish you well!
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Steve
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Re: measuring spectrum of a single pulse not feasible with TinySA?
Modern digital o'scopes contain many useful add-ons which are impossible with the older strictly analog approaches.? I'd also suggest capturing the discharge trace on a modern o'scope and using the FFT function to transform your time domain trace into the frequency domain.? Just an alternative to what the designer of the TinySA, Eric, suggested.? However, to capture most of the harmonics, the o'scope must be rather fast.? That can be determined by the time constant of your LC circuit.? Then, assume the o'scope BW must be rated to at least X10 that time constant.? And remember, the spec BW is the -3 dB (power) frequency.
Dave - W?LEV
If you repeat the pulse and use MAX HOLD, the scanning will eventually capture the generated fundamental and harmonics.
Depending on the duty cycle of the generated output this "eventually" may take a long time.
--
Designer of the tinySA
For more info go to
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Re: Input RF switch fault found on TinySA ultra
Hi there,
?
I would second the recommendation to use a hot-air station for this repair.? With some practice beforehand, you can become proficient enough to do it relatively easily.? We have a cheap hot-air station at work and I've been able to do some very intricate work with it once my skills improved.??
?
A second method would be to use low-melt solder and a small soldering iron.? Low-melt solder has a much lower melting temperature than normal solder, so it stays liquified longer.? This allows all leads to be liquified at the same time so that you can remove the chip.? Here's what I'd recommend:? soak each lead with low-melt solder.? You're heating up the lead & "mixing" the low-melt solder with the existing solder on the lead, ultimately lowering the overall melting point.? If you want, you could even wick off the existing solder & then add the low melt.? But once all leads are soaked w/low-melt or the "mixture", move your iron around from lead to lead until all leads are liquid at the same time.? They will stay this way for several seconds, allowing you to remove the chip.? Normal solder won't do this.? As soon as you move to the second lead, the first one solidifies, and so on.? Next, clean the pads with solder braid & IPA - get them looking new so that all the low-melt solder is removed.? Then solder the new chip in place using NORMAL solder (not low-melt).? Low-melt is only for desoldering.
?
A microscope is extremely helpful, but we don't have one at work.? I've done numerous repairs like this with only magnifying goggles/glasses or a headband magnifier - i.e. something you can wear on your head to keep your hands free.? I wouldn't mess around with one of those alligator clip magnifying glasses on a stand, though.? You probably won't be able to see well enough, you only get one spot that's visible, & they're tough to position just right.? So if you don't have a microscope & don't want to invest in one, go with the goggles/glasses and do the repair in a well lit room.??
?
One more thing: use plenty of flux.? Flux is your friend when soldering.? If you don't use it, you'll get hit-or-miss solder joints, bridging, etc.??
?
I've learned a ton from watching Alex on Northridge Fix's YouTube channel.? He's no-nonsense and he gives great information.? Watch a few of his repair videos - any of them, don't look for "LiteVNA repair" because he hasn't done any.? He uses a hot air station and/or low-melt solder in nearly every video so even if he's repairing laptops, it'll be relevant to you.? If you watch a few of them, it'll help you decide whether to try this yourself.? I'm not associated with him, nor do I get any benefit from recommending him.? I've just learned a lot from watching him.
?
?
There are other good soldering channels out there on YouTube as well.? Mr. Solderfix comes to mind as another good option.
?
I wish you well!
?
Steve
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Locked
Re: Help ! Calling Ghostbusters.
This power cycling method is a good way to isolate the interference and determine if it is coming from your property or outside. I would also get a DSP Receiver such as:
Even if you cannot locate the noise you have a radio to listen to.
73 Mike N2MS
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 04/01/2025 4:22 AM EDT G8HUL via groups.io <g8hul@...> wrote:
I have a large home on a hill in a fairly isolated peri-urban area, which I wouldn't expect to be subject
to massive interference.
However, I also have >500 electronic devices, either plugged-in, on battery or hardwired.
I think that is your problem!!!!
Turn every thing off and test each system in isolation.
Regards
Jeff
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Locked
Re: Help ! Calling Ghostbusters.
Madbrain: ? You are living in a RF hell due to having way, way too many wireless devices. As an amateur radio operator and having deployed some large outdoor wifi networks (2000+ plus devices), I have to fight RF interference on an ongoing basis. Some comments: ? - Start reducing the number of wireless devices strategically as unfortunately you are the maker and creator of your own RF hell. Change out the wireless light bulbs with regular ones in areas that will have little impact like in bathrooms, bedrooms, closets.
- Change the manufacture on your bulbs and buy better quality. In my radio shack, I once changed all the light bulbs to led tubes. Ist few worked great, then I purchased another brand and my RF noise levels rose from an S3 signal level to +20 over S9. Had to turn off the lights in the room to even be able to use my HF radio. Fix was to buy better quality bulbs.
- Solar inverter and panels are well known for having RFI issues. Research your manufacturer to see if there are any known problems or defects in the solar panels or inverters.
- Have a aerial (done with a drone and infrared camera) temperature study performed on your solar panels for poor/defective connectors in the panels. They are noise generators.
- Convert your mesh wifi access points to wired if at all possible. Mesh AP’s significantly increase the traffic load on the wifi systems. Check your channel frequency assignments to isolate and separate spatially. On 2.4G there are only 3 clear channels and on 5G only 8 or so.
- Get rid of wall warts (i.e. plug in power supplies) wherever possible. Most are VERY noisy.
- Look at your wifi network diagnostics on the wifi side to determine performance of each AP and find if any are being overloaded.
- I have used many Ubquiti APs and they are nice products. Great price but lower performance. Consider buying top of the line AP’s which can handle more devices and have better performance.
? An EMI detector will be of little use as all it will tell you in the RF spectrum is saturated which you already know. Start cleaning up the RF environment. ? Hope this is helpful. ? Don ?
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Show quoted text
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of madbrain
Sent: Tuesday, April 1, 2025 12:06 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [tinysa] Help ! Calling Ghostbusters.? I have a large home on a hill in a fairly isolated peri-urban area, which I wouldn't expect to be subject to massive interference. However, I also have >500 electronic devices, either plugged-in, on battery or hardwired. Many of them wireless devices, and are experiencing intermittent connectivity problems, on all kinds of frequencies. I know that after living 15 years in this haunted house, I am long overdue for the purchase of an EMI detector. I am trying to figure out which to get, and how to use it. The tinySA Ultra seems like it might be up to the task, but I'm still not sure how I would proceed with the investigation. Here are some of the devices/bands I experience problems on. - Various frequencies - smartphones cell networks have never worked properly indoors with any operator, despite the coverage map. They work in some outdoor locations but not others. This is probably on the operators just lying through their teeth with their coverage maps, and not interference. But our current phones dance alternately between no signal, GSM, 2G, 4G, LTE, 5G. It's essentially impossible to make any cell calls and not have them drop. We have to use Wifi calling. - 2.4 GHz / 5 GHz Wifi devices have lots of problems, especially 2.4 GHz IoT devices. The 9 APs are Ubiquiti Unifi. Two of them are wired, 7 meshed. Many clients don't connect for a long time or at all, a bunch connect to very distant APs, some have elevated packet loss, and some have very high ping times - I have seen as high as 10 seconds. There are now about 300 total Wifi 2.4 GHz clients with the recent addition of 220 Philips Wiz bulb in the last few months. I don't currently have any 6 GHz APs (Wifi 6e/7). I have a couple 6e capable clients (one phone, one laptop). There are only 9 5 GHz clients in the house - two phones, two laptops, two Raspberry Pi 3B+ used as controllers for my 2 Carrier Infinity HVAC, and 3 Enphase solar gateways. - 1.9 GHz - Panasonic DECT 6.0. This generally works pretty well, but the handsets sometimes don't connect to the base when pressing "Talk", and needs to be put into OFF mode and back ON . Likely a device bug, but I have only seen it happen with distant handsets, and not the one in the room closest to the base, so I can't rule out interference completely. - 923 MHz : Yolink devices sometimes lose connectivity, especially distant ones. That's the case intermittently for the water leak sensor at the bottom of one of my water heaters, for instance. And the door and temperature sensor in my garage freezer. My other 12 Yolink devices work very well. But I'm not adding any more until they have a local hub. - 912 - 920 MHz : my 30 Z-Wave LR devices have many problems. Many nodes go "dead" frequently in Home Assistant/Z-Wave JS UI and randomly become unusable. Some are distant, but others not so far. I have switched every single LR device to non-LR so the devices don't lose signal altogether.? The traditional Z-Wave mesh seems to work much better (or not as bad, see below). This could be device bugs due to LR implementations still being relatively recent. - 908 MHz : Z-Wave non-LR devices often have very long reaction time as well. Again, I have seen 10 seconds response time, just like for Wifi devices. Unfortunately, there are also lots of outright transmission failures, especially when communicating with several devices consecutively, such to turn off all light switches in the house. Many switches don't turn off, and require a second attempt. Currently, there is a total of about 70 Z-Wave devices. - 433 MHz : Simplisafe v3 . I have one distant door sensor and keypad that randomly drop out of range of the base station. All 3 are stationary, and I don't quite understand why this happens. I could relocate the keypad, but can't relocate the door sensor. There are not many options for me to relocate the base that won't cause other devices to go out of range. I'm looking for some kind of wall or ceiling mount for the base station in order to improve this, but there is nothing available off the shelf. There are about 20 Simplisafe devices. I wonder if something else is interfering that could be moved./removed. If I had to sum it up, wireless signals just don't work reliably in my home overall. The only wireless signals that I don't believe ever failed are some Safeguard ERA-DCRX and ERA-VPRX doorbell transmitters that operate at 433 MHz. 1) is the tinySA Ultra device suitable to pinpoint the source of all these wireless issues ? 2) is there any guide that I could read about how to proceed with the use of the device before purchasing it ? Preferably in written form, not video. 3) has anyone else previously been in my shoes, and been able to resolve most or all of these problems ?
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Locked
Re: Help ! Calling Ghostbusters.
Wow. Just wow. You have created what we call RF Hell. You will inevitably have a high rate of signal collisions. Also the combined signal level of all your transmitters and EMI generators across all bands will be very high which will create strong signal overload of the receivers, both in-band, harmonic, and fundamental overload. Receiver overload causes distortion and even more interfering mixing products are generated. With fundamental overload a strong signal out of band blows through the front end filtering of a receiver so yes, devices in different bands can interfere with each other. You are effectively trying to put a swimming pool into a 5 gallon bucket. If you do buy an SA you will also need some attenuators so you don't overload it as well. Your only cure is to shut everything down, clean up the EMI/RFI sources, and rebuild the system with careful planning possibly with the aid of an RF consultant. Even then you will still have issues. My former employer sold coaches wireless systems to the NFL some years back and throughout the life of the system we sent engineers to the Super Bowl every year to babysit the radios and manage interference. It was a job that I would not have wanted to do. On Mon, 31 Mar 2025 22:06:25 -0700 "madbrain via groups.io" <groups_dot_io@...> wrote: Here are some of the devices/bands I experience problems on. -- 73 -Jim NU0C
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Locked
Re: Help ! Calling Ghostbusters.
Hehehehe!? Well done!? Your problem is not even close to the President's Executive Order to eliminate the Amateur Radio Service!? He hints that the IRS is next...
--
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Locked
Re: Help ! Calling Ghostbusters.
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Locked
Re: Help ! Calling Ghostbusters.
Hi.
Let me conclude:?
1. You have a huge house with many WiFi components (only talking about
?? that what is running over WiFi).
2. You have a very high number of WiFi components.
?
Phones (1900 MHz) are relatively similar in behavior, but running on other band, so the same thoughts apply there (partially) too.
? ?
I installed many WiFi networks in my life, but I would never go above 30-40 clients on one Access Point (AP). More clients may work, but with huge impact on throughput, but it is also possible that the accesspoints cannot handle that number of MAC addresses.
I would also never install wireless repeaters (only repeating over WiFi). Every intermediate repeater reduces the throughput, so when you have 3~4 cascaded ones the construct can become very unstable ...
I know that there are standards like 802.11r.? Such routers/APs support mesh radio (so they transparently hand over moving clients.? But a warning, I (still) have a few WiFi cameras in use that do not support that. Even worse, the cameras do not connect to this Mesh-WLAN and I had to define a separate VLAN without "r" especially for them.?? I doubt that every little smarthome device will smoothly support Mesh WLANs.
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So I would start with having a close look on number and location of APs to not have too many devices connected to a particular AP. In worst case you need to add more APs and lower their signal level to make radio cells smaller.
And use copper backbones (connect every AP to the LAN switch by an individual LAN cable). Copper is LOTS faster than WiFi, and this way you also eliminate concatenated APs/Repeaters.
This is how I would start with.
? Hope this helps you locating possible weak points.
?
Rainer
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Am Dienstag, 1. April 2025, 12:14:34 CEST schrieben Sie:
> What do you call close proximity ? This is a 4600 sq ft home on 3 levels
> indoors. There are many smart bulbs outdoors as well. The devices are not
> all close to each other. There is a fair amount i can turn off, but without
> flipping breakers it's not likely go to much below 150 count.
>
> As I listed in my OP, the various devices operate in a variety of bands.
> They should not interfere with devices in the other bands. My theory is
> that some of them may have defective radios and interfere with bands they
> aren't supposed to operate in. I suspect this especially because many of
> the devices were bought used, not new. Some of the smartbulbs for example
> don't have working BLE, only Wifi, even though they are supposed to have
> both. This makes them difficult but not impossible to setup. I have been
> removing these half working bulbs. But there could be other sources of EMI.
> There are 2 EV chargers, 70 solar panels, 70 micro-inverters. Any of them
> could have an effect on EMI. I am not an EE, and I just don't know to what
> degree and at what distance. I thought a tool like the tinySA could help
> map where interference might be coming from location wise at least , if not
> device wise.
>
>
>
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Re: Input RF switch fault found on TinySA ultra
Kindly suggestion: never use a graphite pencil as a pointer to components on a PCB. One might inadvertantly create a conductive path on the board without knowing it. This is just a general rule of thumb.
Based on the "fault finding" tab at , my SA ultra's input RF switch chip U22 (AS179-92LF) has failed. This chip is so tiny it seems there is not a soldering iron or tweezer small enough to replace it. It's like a microscope-dependent repair! Has anyone had success with this repair, or is it just smarter to buy a whole new SA Ultra?
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Locked
Re: Help ! Calling Ghostbusters.
How much metal is part of your home's costruction? Roof, exterior walls (metallized insulation, wire mesh under stucco, etc.), interior walls (are the studs wood or metal?), etc., etc.
>>I have a large home on a hill in a fairly isolated peri-urban area, which I wouldn't expect to be subject
>> to massive interference.
>> However, I also have >500 electronic devices, either plugged-in, on battery or hardwired.
I think that is your problem!!!!
Turn every thing off and test each system in isolation.
Regards
Jeff
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Jim Shorney
Dan Heather