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Re: Firmware update server down

 

Should be OK now.
--
Designer of the tinySA
For more info go to

Firmware update server down

 

Due to some technical mishap the server hosting the firmware is down.
Hope to solve this soon.
--
Designer of the tinySA
For more info go to

Firmware links for tinysa and ultra are down.

 



I have been trying all day.??
I also tried from different locations and different Internet providers.??
I'm guessing I should just be patient and wait for these to come back up??
Just checking in case they have been moved.??
I am in the USA.
Thanks!?
Unable to Download Windows Software for the tinySA-App

 

Hi,
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I am new to tinySA Ultra and wanted to download the Windows App.? This link doesn't work for me and just times out.
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Anyone else having the same problem?? Any workarounds?
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Thanks
Website Down for athome.kaashoek.com - Can't Access TinySA Software for Windows #TinySA-App #WindowsAPP #install #software

 

Hi everyone,

I'm unable to access the site and all other pages on this domain. It seems like a global issue, as my availability test shows the same problem worldwide. You can check the results here: .

Does anyone know where I can find the latest version of the TinySA software for Windows? Or could someone possibly reach out to the site owner to check the issue?

Thanks in advance!
Re: Tiny SA Ultra - Has my unit frozen for the last time?

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý


> Have you tried swearing at it?


On 2024-10-16 08:03, t_hattersley via groups.io wrote:
It froze again within about 5 minutes of the screen connector fix. It then took about 3 re-seating attempts of the screen connector to get it functional again. It may want blood from me next time.
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Re: Tiny SA Ultra - Has my unit frozen for the last time?

 

It froze again within about 5 minutes of the screen connector fix. It then took about 3 re-seating attempts of the screen connector to get it functional again. It may want blood from me next time.
Re: Tiny SA Ultra - Has my unit frozen for the last time?

 

I hadn't tried that. Disconnecting, removing and reinserting the screen connector actually did work.
Thank you.
Re: Tiny SA Ultra - Has my unit frozen for the last time?

 

have you also tried to reconnect the internal flexPCB of the TouchScreen ?
Re: Tiny SA Ultra - Has my unit frozen for the last time?

 

I had already tried different degrees of pressure on the screen. Partly screwed shut and without the cover. No change.
Re: Tiny SA Ultra - Has my unit frozen for the last time?

 

Just to be sure, can you release the screws that hold the case a bit and see if that solves the locking up?
--
Designer of the tinySA
For more info go to

Tiny SA Ultra - Has my unit frozen for the last time?

 

Hi
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I hope someone can help. Previously, my Tiny SA Ultra has locked itself up a couple of times during simple interaction with the menu. Whenever this happens, if I start it up, it freezes on a display at 349.2MHz (image attached).
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The first time this happened, the power disconnection method from inside the unit resolved the problem. On the second time this didn't work but starting it up without the SD card inserted did. On this third occasion, neither method has worked. Even leaving the battery disconnected for > 10 mins.
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Just before the 3rd occasion, I had performed a firmware update to v1.4-177. The update worked fine using the TinySA-App and it passed a self-test. It wouldn¡¯t loaded my previous settings so I was manually re-entering my presets. During this it locked up for the third time.
I can still put it into DFU mode and apply different firmware via the app but the same frozen screen happens everytime I start it up. I noticed another owner describe a similar problem online where if they hold the jog wheel to the left or right as it starts up, you can still briefly change the frequency from 349.2MHz. However, that¡¯s it.
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It is a legitimate TinySA Ultra purchased in Feb 2024 from a supplier listed by tinesa.org. Ultra mode had been enabled. Calibration checked.
- s/n: SU-24014581
- h/w version: V0.4.5.1.1
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Any help would be appreciated.
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Regards
Tristan
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Re: Antenuator question

 

This is a particular problem with attenuators that use SMD ceramic substrate "chip" resistors.
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Older style carbon rod based attenuators could withstand quite severe overloads for a reasonable proportion of time, but SMD types tend to blow apart within a few mS, often at power levels that are not much above their rated value.
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I have replaced blown 50w "chip" based dry loads with 150w devices, just for this reason, even though the actual, long term, power dissipation remains the same, as it is limited by the capacity of the heat sink.
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Regards,
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Martin
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On Tue, Oct 15, 2024 at 08:30 AM, G8HUL wrote:

Many transmitters exhibit power overshoot when first transmitting where the o/p power can, momentarily, greatly exceed the actual setting.
Re: Antenuator question

 

Beware that jut relying on turning down the power on a transmitter can put the TinySA at risk.
Many transmitters exhibit power overshoot when first transmitting where the o/p power can, momentarily, greatly exceed the actual setting.
So always ensure that there is sufficient attenuation in place to keep the level below the TinySA damage level with the max power that the Tx can produce (which may even be more than the rated max).

73
Jeff G8HUL
Re: Antenuator question

 

¡°So do you get what you pay for or are some of these cheaper ones being sold as new any count?¡±
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The general rules of Chinese attenuators are that the claimed maximum power is sustainable for a few seconds only on large attenuators
and is the step below the point of immediate destruction for smaller ones
(it took under a second to destroy one 2W SMA attenuator with a 5W transmitter in a ¡®dumb moment ¡®)
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Another ?issue is that many are described on selling pages as having an input end and an output end. ? Many larger ones confirm this with an arrow stuck to the body. ? ? This doesn¡¯t matter so much as long as you remember it !?
Typically the male connector end will be high power /input end?
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Like other components the factory testing inevitably produces a range of tolerances to sell to different customers at different prices . ?
If buying +/- 2dB spec don¡¯t expect it to be better than 1dB. ?(It may be but ¡­ )

Likewise the 1dB ones will be in the 0.5 to 0.99 dB range. ??

in each cases the errors on Input SWR seem to swing up and down more than my old pro ones suggesting the adjustment process on 4,6 and 8 GHz types is quite complex?
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According ?to the test equipment I have I¡¯ve not seen a ¡®factory¡¯ device not meet its spec. ? Just remember that for example a +/- 2dB high value attenuator that touches both limits over its range can make harmonic vs carrier measurements out by +/-4dB which can show excellence or a problem that isn¡¯t actually there. ? For amateur use comparison with a known good radio on the same measurement chain can provide useful insight.?

Connectors and cables and transmitter output impedances also affect results.. ?- such is the joy of measurement ?
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I¡¯ve noticed that some of the factories sell on eBay - if you find a seller with loads of types in many values in stock you¡¯re probably getting close to the factory ..
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The big names in RF will sell you lovely, accurate flat bidirectional attenuators but for hobby use these are too expensive at 10x the Chinese price. ?
But remember someone is buying them for that?
Re: Antenuator question

 

The $80 Elecraft CP1 can be wired as a 30dB coupler that can handle 250 watts:
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John AE5X
Re: Antenuator question

 

You might best evaluate it over the air - close to the repeater site.? Reason is the cans and the antenna do not present a good out-of-band 50 ¡À j 0 ohm load for the transmitter which a good dummy load would.

Long ago and far away I once made a 100-watt amp for our repeater.? It was rock solid and clean on the dummy load at home.? However, when it was connedted to the cans and the antenna, it oscillated like crazy.? Why?? The dummy load presented a good "DC-to-light" 50 ohm load.? Once connected to the cans and antenna, the out-of-band was no where near that requirement.? The out-of-band response can be as important as in-band.

Dave - W?LEV?

Dave - W?LEV?


On Mon, Oct 14, 2024 at 8:52?PM N4FOX via <N4fox.r=[email protected]> wrote:
I'm main interested in HF up to 70cm use. Particularly 2M as well.?
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The reason I am curious about measurements of 5 to 50 watts is as stated HTs & Mobiles. But there's one other reason for a Yaesu DR2X repeater. I hear the transmitter is trashy on those on the 5 watt & 50 watt settings. So I bought this unit particularly just for looking at that machine. I have plans to use a 100watt amp on that repeater. Initially I was going to do a 5 in 100 out. But if the transmitter is trashy at 5 watts. Then that amp will just make the trash louder. I'm told the 20 watt setting is more stable.?
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I just wanted something that I can use for checking thibgs out & make sure the information inwas given was accurate or just someone being bias.?



--
Dave - W?LEV
Re: Antenuator question

 

I'm main interested in HF up to 70cm use. Particularly 2M as well.?
?
The reason I am curious about measurements of 5 to 50 watts is as stated HTs & Mobiles. But there's one other reason for a Yaesu DR2X repeater. I hear the transmitter is trashy on those on the 5 watt & 50 watt settings. So I bought this unit particularly just for looking at that machine. I have plans to use a 100watt amp on that repeater. Initially I was going to do a 5 in 100 out. But if the transmitter is trashy at 5 watts. Then that amp will just make the trash louder. I'm told the 20 watt setting is more stable.?
?
I just wanted something that I can use for checking thibgs out & make sure the information inwas given was accurate or just someone being bias.?
Re: Antenuator question

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Hi,

One of my primary uses for the tinySA is measurement of harmonics and spurious mixing products in the output of transmitters in particular. The attenuator must have a flat 50 ohm response all the way to the highest harmonic(s) you must look for. I am a forty meter kind of ham radio licensee so I can use an attenuator that is flat to several hundred MHz and not have misleading results. Your use suggests operating frequencies around 400 or 500 MHz so multiply that up to seven times for what you need from your attenuator. Probably the least expensive devices are inadequate for your needs. With due care you could make your own but it will require a lot effort unless you own a very good lab and have experience using it. I spent a little more on some attenuators that are guaranteed flat into the low microwave region and I can verify them to low GHz with an inexpensive VNA. I have confidence in my measurements in the HF ham bands and lower frequencies. The quality of your measuring equipment is not a good place to cut corners. Just my own opinion gained from a lifetime of using critical metrology. YMMV.

73,

Bill ?KU8H

On Oct 14, 2024, at 3:39?PM, N4FOX via groups.io <N4fox.r@...> wrote:

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So with all the various places like Amazon & ebay etc..
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I see antenuators in Amazon for cheap compared to some other name brand ones. Yet some have good reviews. So do you get what you pay for or are some of these cheaper ones being sold as new any count?
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One of my main interest is being able to measure 5 watt HTs to 50 watt mobiles.?
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I'd hate to get something that's advertised as one thing..then use it to find out it's junk & possibly blow up the tinysa.?
Re: Antenuator question

 

For your 50W mobiles, I would turn them down to their lowest power to test them.? A 50W attenuator is a pretty big thing.
For 50W, you would need a 10dB attenuator to get it down to 5W.? Then you could use a 20dB 5W attenuator to get it down to .05W.?
Then add another 40dB or more of quarter-watt attenuators to get it in the ballpark of where you want to be for measurements.
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