For SMD components I use one of these (mine is model number 959. This might be the replacement?)
It has nozzles so you can restrict the heated area. You can adjust the air temperature between 100C and 400C. (300C works well for me with the nozzle about 2¡± away). And it has a fan speed control to help stop blowing nearby components off.
The main thing to remember is that the surface tension if the solder holds components in place or pulls them into place while you¡¯re soldering.?
i always use this with solder paste (buy it in a syringe so you can dispense it by hand. Buy some cheep solder paste dispensing needles too).
it¡¯s quite easy with practice. You¡¯ll probably need metal, non magnetic tweezers to help you place the component.?
I¡¯m a professional electronics engineer but I use this ?for my own projects at home and it¡¯s adequate. I¡¯m certain that you would get something better if you paid more.?
|
Re: How to call the "SPAN" of the frequency slider in output mode?
|
Re: How to call the "SPAN" of the frequency slider in output mode?
Hello Erik,
Keeping SPAN is OK for me.
73, Rudi DL5FA
|
How to call the "SPAN" of the frequency slider in output mode?
A long tap on the frequency button away from the slider indicator activates the mode in which you can set the frequency range of the slider. It can be set very small (1kHz) so you can control the frequency in great detail or very large (full frequency range of the output mode) so you can quickly scan a large range Currently this mode is called the "SPAN" mode, but that creates confusion with the SPAN setting in the sweep. What would be a good name for this mode?
- WIDTH?
- RANGE?
- or keep SPAN?
- anything else?
You input is most welcome
------------------------------------------
For more info on the tinySA go to https://tinysa.org/wiki/
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toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Sun, Dec 27, 2020 at 4:25 PM Jim Shorney < jshorney@...> wrote:
It is a ground connection (usually) and a heat sink. The Sparkfun page covers these in one of the tutorials. Be sure to read through the comments at the end.
73
-Jim
NU0C
On Sun, 27 Dec 2020 16:18:28 -0500
"stefan baartman" <seb21051@...> wrote:
> Is the slug just a ground connection?
|
It is a ground connection (usually) and a heat sink. The Sparkfun page covers these in one of the tutorials. Be sure to read through the comments at the end. 73 -Jim NU0C On Sun, 27 Dec 2020 16:18:28 -0500 "stefan baartman" <seb21051@...> wrote: Is the slug just a ground connection?
|
Hi Jim,?
I didn't realize the attenuator has a solder slug on the bottom. That could certainly complicate things somewhat. I have ordered 0.2mm tips for my Weller WP-25, some braid and Kapton tape. I was thinking of the low melting? point alloy, but it would probably be difficult to get that to the slug area, unless one chips away at the device itself. Is the slug just a ground connection?
I could try to gently dremel the chip down to its substrate, then the hot air should be more effective. We'll have to see.
Luckily the device is close to the edge of the PCB, and there aren't too many passives around it. I'll make a nozzle for my heatgun?so it concentrates and restricts the airflow, and tape off the area around it as well as I can.
On Sun, Dec 27, 2020 at 1:04 PM Jim Shorney < jshorney@...> wrote:
It may be counter-intuitive but that tip size is way too small for me. The reason is that the thermal mass is very small so you can end up cranking up the heat and/or taking more time to do the job, which increases the risk of damage. My favorite tip for my old Weller WTCP is 0.8 and I have used larger than that with Hakko and Xtronic irons. Most of my work was done in the days of good old 63/73 tin/lead solder which has near perfect surface tension and flow characteristics for this kind of work. It is more difficult to produce good results with unleaded solder. I use generous amounts of liquid rosin flux to help out, cleaning thoroughly after. I have never used solder paste but some people love it.
The attenuator chip is one of the difficult ones with the solder slug on the bottom. Care must be taken not to apply too much solder to the pad or it can overflow and short the other connections. Difficult even in manufacture as I have had to re-flow them occasionally on production boards to ensure good connections on the edge contacts. I have a Hakko hot air station on one of my benches at work that I have used but results have been mixed. A better approach may be to heat the board from the bottom but you need to be very careful with the amount of heat and it can take quite some time to get the area hot enough.
If you do an internet search on SMT soldering I am sure you will find plenty of ideas. Here are some from Sparkfun.
73
-Jim
NU0C
On Sun, 27 Dec 2020 08:50:42 -0800
"Brian Donaldson" <brianb253@...> wrote:
> I know this is obvious, but going to say it anyway. A good soldering station should have a .2mm needle point tip. I have worked on my HF radio and needed to remove some diodes that were about the size of the SM components. I thought about using heat but elected not to for the very same reason mentioned; it is too broad of air flow. So I got .2mm tips and used 3x magnifiers to do the work. Even .2mm is wide when under the magnifiers but not wide enough to effect other components.
>
>?
>
> If age and steadiness is an issues, a heat gun will be no different. Kapton tape is a better solution vs. aluminum foil.
>
>?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brian D
>
> KF6BL
>
>?
>
> From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of stefan baartman
> Sent: Sunday, December 27, 2020 8:09 AM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: [tinysa] My TinySA appears to be bricked. #bug_report
>
>?
>
> Hi Gyula. that makes sense.
>
>?
>
> As regards heatguns, I have a good one, but my
>
> assumption is one would need to get or make a nozzle that concentrates the
>
> heat in a relatively small spot, like the footprint of a IC? Otherwise , with its wide nozzle,
>
> one would be potentially desoldering a lot of components, and with the force of
>
> the blower, possibly blowing some away?
>
>?
>
> With regards to soldering irons, my standard RadioShack model's tip is way too large (I build
>
> and service Vacuum Tube amps) for SMD work, and the tip is not interchangeable any more.
>
>?
>
> A new model for SMD work would have to be obtained. What are your recommendations?
>
>?
>
> Thanks!
>
>?
>
> On Sun, Dec 27, 2020 at 10:45 AM Gyula Molnar <gyula.ha3hz@...> wrote:
>
> Stefan,
> When you use hot air and cover a lot of small parts, there will still be some you can¡¯t cover. They are too close to iC, for example.
> These need to be taken out, set aside, and then put back on after using the hot air.
|
I'm glad no one told me that when I was learning how to do it. :) 73 -Jim NU0C On Sun, 27 Dec 2020 10:51:47 -0600 "Bill Retzner" <billretzner@...> wrote: As mentioned early on in this thread, I am sure that a heatgun is fine for
stripping all the SMD components off of circuit boards. But heatguns have
too much air flow for doing component level SMD work.
|
A better solution to try using a heat gun in tight places. Try using a product called CHIPQUIK (SMD1). All you need is your soldering iron. The product lowers the melting point of the existing solder. The chip then just lifts off.?
Richard K8CYK?
On Sun, Dec 27, 2020, 10:33 AM Jim Shorney < jshorney@...> wrote:
Simple components are easy. Clear the pads of solder and tin one pad only with a small dab of fresh solder. Hold the part in place with tweezers and heat the tinned pad until the solder melts and wets the part. Then solder the other end of the part. You have to be fairly quick about it or the part will heat up enough that the other soldered end will melt and the part will move around.
Or of you have two irons you can tin both pads, place the part, and heat both end at once. The part will magically center itself on the pads when both sides are molten.
Again, practice on some scrap boards.
My friend K0NEB, who writes the kit building column for CQ magazine, has talked of using a hot plate to heat the whole board up but I have never used this method. Probably not a bad idea to at least pre-heat the board this way for complex parts like the attenuator chip.
73
-Jim
NU0C
On Sun, 27 Dec 2020 10:25:55 -0500
"stefan baartman" <seb21051@...> wrote:
> As regards C36, how do you hold it in place while you solder it? It was
> because
> of its miniscule size that I inadvertently picked it up and lost it.
|
As mentioned early on in this?thread, I am sure that a heatgun is fine for stripping all the SMD components off of circuit boards.? But heatguns have too much air flow for doing component level SMD work.?
Recommendations from a SMD radio kits builder¡¯s forum are:
? 1) Embossing Heat Tool - more like a pencil than a gun ? 2) Quick Chip - ?component removal using a low temperature alloy
73, Bill W9LBR
A google search of the above terms will provide several options.
On Sun, Dec 27, 2020 at 10:09 AM stefan baartman < seb21051@...> wrote: Hi Gyula. that makes sense.?
As regards heatguns, I have a good one, but my? assumption is one would need to get or make a nozzle that concentrates the heat in a relatively small spot, like the footprint of a IC? Otherwise , with its wide nozzle, one would be potentially desoldering a lot of components, and with the force of the blower, possibly blowing some away?
With regards to soldering irons, my standard RadioShack model's tip is way too large (I build and service Vacuum Tube amps) for SMD work, and the tip is not interchangeable any more.
A new model for SMD work would have to be obtained. What are your recommendations?
Thanks!
Stefan,
When you use hot air and cover a lot of small parts, there will still be some you can¡¯t cover. They are too close to iC, for example.
These need to be taken out, set aside, and then put back on after using the hot air.
--
73, Gyula HA3HZ
|
It may be counter-intuitive but that tip size is way too small for me. The reason is that the thermal mass is very small so you can end up cranking up the heat and/or taking more time to do the job, which increases the risk of damage. My favorite tip for my old Weller WTCP is 0.8 and I have used larger than that with Hakko and Xtronic irons. Most of my work was done in the days of good old 63/73 tin/lead solder which has near perfect surface tension and flow characteristics for this kind of work. It is more difficult to produce good results with unleaded solder. I use generous amounts of liquid rosin flux to help out, cleaning thoroughly after. I have never used solder paste but some people love it. The attenuator chip is one of the difficult ones with the solder slug on the bottom. Care must be taken not to apply too much solder to the pad or it can overflow and short the other connections. Difficult even in manufacture as I have had to re-flow them occasionally on production boards to ensure good connections on the edge contacts. I have a Hakko hot air station on one of my benches at work that I have used but results have been mixed. A better approach may be to heat the board from the bottom but you need to be very careful with the amount of heat and it can take quite some time to get the area hot enough. If you do an internet search on SMT soldering I am sure you will find plenty of ideas. Here are some from Sparkfun. 73 -Jim NU0C On Sun, 27 Dec 2020 08:50:42 -0800 "Brian Donaldson" <brianb253@...> wrote: I know this is obvious, but going to say it anyway. A good soldering station should have a .2mm needle point tip. I have worked on my HF radio and needed to remove some diodes that were about the size of the SM components. I thought about using heat but elected not to for the very same reason mentioned; it is too broad of air flow. So I got .2mm tips and used 3x magnifiers to do the work. Even .2mm is wide when under the magnifiers but not wide enough to effect other components.
If age and steadiness is an issues, a heat gun will be no different. Kapton tape is a better solution vs. aluminum foil.
Thanks,
Brian D
KF6BL
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of stefan baartman
Sent: Sunday, December 27, 2020 8:09 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [tinysa] My TinySA appears to be bricked. #bug_report
Hi Gyula. that makes sense.
As regards heatguns, I have a good one, but my
assumption is one would need to get or make a nozzle that concentrates the
heat in a relatively small spot, like the footprint of a IC? Otherwise , with its wide nozzle,
one would be potentially desoldering a lot of components, and with the force of
the blower, possibly blowing some away?
With regards to soldering irons, my standard RadioShack model's tip is way too large (I build
and service Vacuum Tube amps) for SMD work, and the tip is not interchangeable any more.
A new model for SMD work would have to be obtained. What are your recommendations?
Thanks!
On Sun, Dec 27, 2020 at 10:45 AM Gyula Molnar <gyula.ha3hz@...> wrote:
Stefan,
When you use hot air and cover a lot of small parts, there will still be some you can¡¯t cover. They are too close to iC, for example.
These need to be taken out, set aside, and then put back on after using the hot air.
|
Simple components are easy. Clear the pads of solder and tin one pad only with a small dab of fresh solder. Hold the part in place with tweezers and heat the tinned pad until the solder melts and wets the part. Then solder the other end of the part. You have to be fairly quick about it or the part will heat up enough that the other soldered end will melt and the part will move around. Or of you have two irons you can tin both pads, place the part, and heat both end at once. The part will magically center itself on the pads when both sides are molten. Again, practice on some scrap boards. My friend K0NEB, who writes the kit building column for CQ magazine, has talked of using a hot plate to heat the whole board up but I have never used this method. Probably not a bad idea to at least pre-heat the board this way for complex parts like the attenuator chip. 73 -Jim NU0C On Sun, 27 Dec 2020 10:25:55 -0500 "stefan baartman" <seb21051@...> wrote: As regards C36, how do you hold it in place while you solder it? It was
because
of its miniscule size that I inadvertently picked it up and lost it.
|
Hi Brain.
All that you say makes sense. I shall have to get a small tip soldering iron, kapton tape, narrow braid, a smaller aperture nozzle for my heatgun, etc, etc.
On Sun, Dec 27, 2020 at 11:50 AM Brian Donaldson < brianb253@...> wrote: I know this is obvious, but going to say it anyway. A good soldering station should have a .2mm needle point tip. I have worked on my HF radio and needed to remove some diodes that were about the size of the SM components. I thought about using heat but elected not to for the very same reason mentioned; it is too broad of air flow. So I got .2mm tips and used 3x magnifiers to do the work. Even .2mm is wide when under the magnifiers but not wide enough to effect other components. ? If age and steadiness is an issues, a heat gun will be no different. Kapton tape is a better solution vs. aluminum foil. ? Thanks, Brian D KF6BL ? From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of stefan baartman
Sent: Sunday, December 27, 2020 8:09 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [tinysa] My TinySA appears to be bricked. #bug_report ? Hi Gyula. that makes sense.? As regards heatguns, I have a good one, but my? assumption is one would need to get or make a nozzle that concentrates the heat in a relatively small spot, like the footprint of a IC? Otherwise , with its wide nozzle, one would be potentially desoldering a lot of components, and with the force of the blower, possibly blowing some away? With regards to soldering irons, my standard RadioShack model's tip is way too large (I build and service Vacuum Tube amps) for SMD work, and the tip is not interchangeable any more. A new model for SMD work would have to be obtained. What are your recommendations? ? Stefan,
When you use hot air and cover a lot of small parts, there will still be some you can¡¯t cover. They are too close to iC, for example.
These need to be taken out, set aside, and then put back on after using the hot air.
--
73, Gyula HA3HZ
|
I know this is obvious, but going to say it anyway. A good soldering station should have a .2mm needle point tip. I have worked on my HF radio and needed to remove some diodes that were about the size of the SM components. I thought about using heat but elected not to for the very same reason mentioned; it is too broad of air flow. So I got .2mm tips and used 3x magnifiers to do the work. Even .2mm is wide when under the magnifiers but not wide enough to effect other components. ? If age and steadiness is an issues, a heat gun will be no different. Kapton tape is a better solution vs. aluminum foil. ? Thanks, Brian D KF6BL ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of stefan baartman
Sent: Sunday, December 27, 2020 8:09 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [tinysa] My TinySA appears to be bricked. #bug_report ? Hi Gyula. that makes sense.? As regards heatguns, I have a good one, but my? assumption is one would need to get or make a nozzle that concentrates the heat in a relatively small spot, like the footprint of a IC? Otherwise , with its wide nozzle, one would be potentially desoldering a lot of components, and with the force of the blower, possibly blowing some away? With regards to soldering irons, my standard RadioShack model's tip is way too large (I build and service Vacuum Tube amps) for SMD work, and the tip is not interchangeable any more. A new model for SMD work would have to be obtained. What are your recommendations? ? Stefan,
When you use hot air and cover a lot of small parts, there will still be some you can¡¯t cover. They are too close to iC, for example.
These need to be taken out, set aside, and then put back on after using the hot air.
--
73, Gyula HA3HZ
|
Hi Gyula. that makes sense.?
As regards heatguns, I have a good one, but my? assumption is one would need to get or make a nozzle that concentrates the heat in a relatively small spot, like the footprint of a IC? Otherwise , with its wide nozzle, one would be potentially desoldering a lot of components, and with the force of the blower, possibly blowing some away?
With regards to soldering irons, my standard RadioShack model's tip is way too large (I build and service Vacuum Tube amps) for SMD work, and the tip is not interchangeable any more.
A new model for SMD work would have to be obtained. What are your recommendations?
Thanks!
Stefan,
When you use hot air and cover a lot of small parts, there will still be some you can¡¯t cover. They are too close to iC, for example.
These need to be taken out, set aside, and then put back on after using the hot air.
--
73, Gyula HA3HZ
|
Stefan,
When you use hot air and cover a lot of small parts, there will still be some you can¡¯t cover. They are too close to iC, for example.
These need to be taken out, set aside, and then put back on after using the hot air.
--
73, Gyula HA3HZ
|
Ah, thanks Eric,
I did see that PSEM said the PE4302 is considered obsolete and the suggested? replacement is the PE4312, but I guess that is for new designs.
As regards C36, how do you hold it in place while you solder it? It was because? of its miniscule size that I inadvertently picked it up and lost it.
On Sun, Dec 27, 2020 at 9:10 AM Erik Kaashoek < erik@...> wrote: On Sat, Dec 26, 2020 at 07:36 PM, stefan baartman wrote:
Now to find a source for the attenuator chip and C36
C36=(0402 size) 1uF
?Attenuator = PE4302. Can be found on eBay, 10pcs for 8$
--
------------------------------------------
For more info on the tinySA go to
|
On Sat, Dec 26, 2020 at 07:36 PM, stefan baartman wrote:
Now to find a source for the attenuator chip and C36
C36=(0402 size) 1uF ?Attenuator = PE4302. Can be found on eBay, 10pcs for 8$ --
------------------------------------------
For more info on the tinySA go to https://tinysa.org/wiki/
|
Yes, if you have an attenuator to reduce the signal a bit (10dB or 20dB)? that would work. Put the nanoVNA in CW mode on 280MHz (anywhere between 240 and 300MHz) and measure the output from port 1 (CH0) with low input tinySA. Write down the level Connect tinySa to high input, set tinySa in high input mode. Now the signal should be there at the left of the screen. Go to CONFIG/EXPERT CONFIG/ACTUAL POWER and enter the level measured using the low input --
------------------------------------------
For more info on the tinySA go to https://tinysa.org/wiki/
|
With the help of the Forum I was able to watch and (sort of) understand the video.
Anyway, I bypassed the attenuator and the Tiny does work again, obviously sans attenuation. I also
seemed to have lifted and lost C36 in the process. Such is life.
Now to find a source for the attenuator chip and C36.
|
Jim Allyn - N7JA
Jim Shorney
Gyula Molnar