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True frequency band upper limit detection level of TinySA Ultra ZS-407 and corresponding signal dropoff
Hello all,
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I was wondering if anyone could offer some insights about the true upper limits of the frequency bands that the TinySA Ultra ZS-407 can detect. And what the corresponding signal drop-offs are at each 1 GHz interval above 7.3ghz? I watched a video which showed the below signal drop-offs on the ZS-406 when detecting a signal generator emitting a 1 dbm signal. Since the ZS-406 is only rated up to 5.4 GHz, does that mean the ZS-407 takes another 2 GHz to start seeing similar drop offs since it's rated up to 7.3 GHz? I.E. 9 GHz would be -5.5dbm, 10 GHz would be -17dbm, 11 GHz would be -27.5dbm??
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I'm trying to make sense of some alarming signals I've been detecting from a nearby cell phone tower. I detected a 10.092ghz 4.6dbm peak signal on my back patio which is 0.78 miles / 1.28 km from the cell phone tower. Based on the signal drop off of the TinySA Ultra ZS-407, I'm guessing that may be underreporting the signal by about 17 dbm? So the real signal is more like 21.6dbm??
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Under the tower itself I've detected steady signals of 19.3 to 22.3 dbm at 10.7777ghz. So those may actually be closer to 40 or 50dbm? Any help is appreciated, thanks.?
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Adam
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https://youtu.be/ypqJMcVC-z8?si=8k55XFsBYeXlYm8V
Interpreting Those Drop-Offs (ZS-406):
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Re: Banggood, is tinysa.org updated?
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýHi, I think I'll chime in with my Banggood experience. I did not know about this group when I bought it, or the concerns about copies and clones were so bad.? It also did not come with a stylus. I don't have any complaints about it, it works good. I did ask the seller beforehand, if it was authentic, and capable of being upgraded, because I saw their policy said "flashing firmware voids your warranty."? I did do /some/ research first. It is the ZS-406 model, and it can measure up to 12.072 GHz after
unlocking Ultra mode. Barely into the range I really want to
measure (Starlink). I guess they were liquidating their older
inventory, thus the sale price. Now I wonder if ZS-407 can go higher, since the base frequency
range is up to 7.3 instead of 5.4, I wonder how that corresponds
to the Ultra range expansion, and how that compares to authentic
hardware. Which is newer? Can the cloners make more capable
hardware than the authentic version?
On 5/12/25 07:13, momir via groups.io
wrote:
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Level Cal -> signal level incorrect (only sometimes)
Hi there!
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I recently bought an ZS-407 (HW 0.5.4, FW -197) from Eleshop and just wanted to ask if it is a non-issue when the Self-Test is fine, but the "Level Cal"
says "Signal Level Incorrect" (-> but only sometimes). It does that like 1 in 7 Cals. It does not seem to matter which cable(s) I use. ?
Example see picture please
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And many thanks in advance for some insight :)
Regards, Seb.
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Re: Auto Save Issues
Thanks you for you're reply,
you confirm me the Tiny SA Ultra+ can't record the integrality of the realtime signal on his sdcard, and need external recorder ? What sort of model of rasberry pi is correct to record in term of power (cpu, IO...) if have two or three tiny sa in // the Pi can record them simultanously with your're software ? |
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Re: clone or not?
Thanks for the quick reply and I'm glad it's an original. As I plan to buy some more I had to be sure that they are not copies.
With the firmware it was stupidity on my part because I thought the programming time was displayed, but it is the build time and this does not change if the current firmware is already installed. Installing an earlier version works fine and then the build time also changes. Another thing that drives me crazy is the power switch. When I have connected the TinySA via USB, I cannot switch on the device.
When I unplug the USB and move the switch from the right to the left position and then immediately back to the right position, the device switches on. Is this normal switch-on behaviour? Incidentally, I can also switch the device on in this way if I have connected the USB cable to a power supply unit rather than to the PC. However, I always have to switch the switch back and forth quickly. I've tried it umpteen times and always get the same result.
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