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Locked
Re: Help ! Calling Ghostbusters.
madbrain
That's really impractical for the hardwired devices, which are many. Flipping some of the 50 breakers works, but cannot isolate a single device such as a switch or bulb.
I can turn off power to entire lighting circuits, but not to smart switches or individual bulbs.
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I'm posting here because I'm hoping there is a tool that can help me with pinpointing the source(s) of the issues. Can tinySA really not help ?
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Re: measuring spectrum of a single pulse not feasible with TinySA?
If you repeat the pulse and use MAX HOLD, the scanning will eventually capture the generated fundamental and harmonics.
Depending on the duty cycle of the generated output this "eventually" may take a long time.
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Designer of the tinySA For more info go to |
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Input RF switch fault found on TinySA ultra
Based on the "fault finding" tab at , my SA ultra's input RF switch chip U22 (AS179-92LF) has failed. This chip is so tiny it seems there is not a soldering iron or tweezer small enough to replace it. It's like a microscope-dependent repair! Has anyone had success with this repair, or is it just smarter to buy a whole new SA Ultra? |
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measuring spectrum of a single pulse not feasible with TinySA?
I want to measure the frequency spread of a single pulse arising from capacitor discharge into a coil, but it sounds like from the discussion here on measuring radar pulses that this will not be feasible with TinySA. The sweep rate is too slow (?) I can guess what the fundamental frequency ought to be based on the LC formula and fish around that area in zero span mode (?), but I'd really like to see what kind of harmonics are contained in the pulse and what their relative amplitudes are compared to the fundamental.? Any ideas besides having to spend thousands more on another spectrum analyzer?? |
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Locked
Re: Help ! Calling Ghostbusters.
I think that is your problem!!!!I have a large home on a hill in a fairly isolated peri-urban area, which I wouldn't expect to be subject Turn every thing off and test each system in isolation. Regards Jeff |
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Locked
Help ! Calling Ghostbusters.
madbrain
I have a large home on a hill in a fairly isolated peri-urban area, which I wouldn't expect to be subject to massive interference.
However, I also have >500 electronic devices, either plugged-in, on battery or hardwired.
Many of them wireless devices, and are experiencing intermittent connectivity problems, on all kinds of frequencies.
I know that after living 15 years in this haunted house, I am long overdue for the purchase of an EMI detector. I am trying to figure out which to get, and how to use it. The tinySA Ultra seems like it might be up to the task, but I'm still not sure how I would proceed with the investigation.
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Here are some of the devices/bands I experience problems on.
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- Various frequencies - smartphones cell networks have never worked properly indoors with any operator, despite the coverage map. They work in some outdoor locations but not others. This is probably on the operators just lying through their teeth with their coverage maps, and not interference. But our current phones dance alternately between no signal, GSM, 2G, 4G, LTE, 5G. It's essentially impossible to make any cell calls and not have them drop. We have to use Wifi calling.
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- 2.4 GHz / 5 GHz Wifi devices have lots of problems, especially 2.4 GHz IoT devices. The 9 APs are Ubiquiti Unifi. Two of them are wired, 7 meshed. Many clients don't connect for a long time or at all, a bunch connect to very distant APs, some have elevated packet loss, and some have very high ping times - I have seen as high as 10 seconds. There are now about 300 total Wifi 2.4 GHz clients with the recent addition of 220 Philips Wiz bulb in the last few months. I don't currently have any 6 GHz APs (Wifi 6e/7). I have a couple 6e capable clients (one phone, one laptop). There are only 9 5 GHz clients in the house - two phones, two laptops, two Raspberry Pi 3B+ used as controllers for my 2 Carrier Infinity HVAC, and 3 Enphase solar gateways.
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- 1.9 GHz - Panasonic DECT 6.0. This generally works pretty well, but the handsets sometimes don't connect to the base when pressing "Talk", and needs to be put into OFF mode and back ON . Likely a device bug, but I have only seen it happen with distant handsets, and not the one in the room closest to the base, so I can't rule out interference completely.
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- 923 MHz : Yolink devices sometimes lose connectivity, especially distant ones. That's the case intermittently for the water leak sensor at the bottom of one of my water heaters, for instance. And the door and temperature sensor in my garage freezer. My other 12 Yolink devices work very well. But I'm not adding any more until they have a local hub.
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- 912 - 920 MHz : my 30 Z-Wave LR devices have many problems. Many nodes go "dead" frequently in Home Assistant/Z-Wave JS UI and randomly become unusable. Some are distant, but others not so far. I have switched every single LR device to non-LR so the devices don't lose signal altogether.? The traditional Z-Wave mesh seems to work much better (or not as bad, see below). This could be device bugs due to LR implementations still being relatively recent.
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- 908 MHz : Z-Wave non-LR devices often have very long reaction time as well. Again, I have seen 10 seconds response time, just like for Wifi devices.
Unfortunately, there are also lots of outright transmission failures, especially when communicating with several devices consecutively, such to turn off all light switches in the house. Many switches don't turn off, and require a second attempt. Currently, there is a total of about 70 Z-Wave devices.
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- 433 MHz : Simplisafe v3 . I have one distant door sensor and keypad that randomly drop out of range of the base station. All 3 are stationary, and I don't quite understand why this happens. I could relocate the keypad, but can't relocate the door sensor. There are not many options for me to relocate the base that won't cause other devices to go out of range. I'm looking for some kind of wall or ceiling mount for the base station in order to improve this, but there is nothing available off the shelf. There are about 20 Simplisafe devices. I wonder if something else is interfering that could be moved./removed.
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If I had to sum it up, wireless signals just don't work reliably in my home overall. The only wireless signals that I don't believe ever failed are some Safeguard ERA-DCRX and ERA-VPRX doorbell transmitters that operate at 433 MHz.
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So, my questions are :
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1) is the tinySA Ultra device suitable to pinpoint the source of all these wireless issues ?
2) is there any guide that I could read about how to proceed with the use of the device before purchasing it ? Preferably in written form, not video.
3) has anyone else previously been in my shoes, and been able to resolve most or all of these problems ?
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Re: Would like to report a new fake chinese hardware for TinySA
Erik (and others I've told to watch out for),
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Let me explain my situation more - as it seems that I need to talk about this...
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I was looking for a RF spectrum analyzer on Amazon and I found one which seemed to be reasonably priced, so I bought it (as anyone else would).
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But when I received the item and read the manual - I started to get red flags.? Not going to mention those here, in public (Erik - if you want to know the details please DM me).
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That was when I realised it was a fake clone of REAL hardware and software - so I researched it and the TinySA project came up.? I was NOT aware of this project before, if I knew earlier - would have purchased from an "official" source.
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Hence, why I wanted to report this clone.? I JUST wanted to help.? And NOW, I can see why you ONLY give official sellers.? But at the start, I didn't know.
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Hope this helps. |
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Re: Would like to report a new fake chinese hardware for TinySA
开云体育Peter...Sorry for the misdirection of my comment. I was on my first cup of coffee. I'm using that as an excuse. On 3/30/2025 9:24 AM, Prawlin via
groups.io wrote:
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Re: Would like to report a new fake chinese hardware for TinySA
开云体育Prawlin...You would just be playing whack-a-mole. It's like trying to blacklist spam IP addresses or telephone numbers. More just pop up. It is a pointless exercise. Listing the authorized sources is the only reasonable way to direct folks to a reliable source. My 2 cents...
On 3/30/2025 2:10 AM, Prawlin via
groups.io wrote:
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Re: Would like to report a new fake chinese hardware for TinySA
On Sat, Mar 29, 2025 at 11:35 PM, Danny wrote:
The rule regarding clones is very very simple. *Only* ever buy from sellers on the ?specific recommended sellers list…….
All other sources are very likely to be illegal fake clones. The marketplace is awash with them. There’s a couple of approved sellers on Amazon, but loads of Amazon sellers are not approved. Please don’t assume that the Amazon marketplace is somehow better than EBay, Aliexpress etc etc. When you buy on Amazon, you are generally not actually buying *from* Amazon, just via the Amazon marketplace system. Peter
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David J Taylor
Roger Need
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