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Hi Brain. All that you say makes sense. I shall have to get a small tip soldering iron, kapton tape, narrow braid, a smaller aperture nozzle for my heatgun, etc, etc. wrote:

I know this is obvious, but going to say it anyway. A good soldering station should have a .2mm needle point tip. I have worked on my HF radio and needed to remove some diodes that were about the size

Hi Gyula. that makes sense. As regards heatguns, I have a good one, but my assumption is one would need to get or make a nozzle that concentrates the heat in a relatively small spot, like the

Stefan, When you use hot air and cover a lot of small parts, there will still be some you can’t cover. They are too close to iC, for example. These need to be taken out, set aside, and then put back

Ah, thanks Eric, I did see that PSEM said the PE4302 is considered obsolete and the suggested replacement is the PE4312, but I guess that is for new designs. As regards C36, how do you hold it in

C36=(0402 size) 1uF Attenuator = PE4302. Can be found on eBay, 10pcs for 8$ -- ------------------------------------------ For more info on the tinySA go to https://tinysa.org/wiki/

Yes, if you have an attenuator to reduce the signal a bit (10dB or 20dB)? that would work. Put the nanoVNA in CW mode on 280MHz (anywhere between 240 and 300MHz) and measure the output from port 1

With the help of the Forum I was able to watch and (sort of) understand the video. Anyway, I bypassed the attenuator and the Tiny does work again, obviously sans attenuation. I also seemed to have

Yes, it can. That is another skill level. But that's how I have done legless parts and the one BGA. Haven't done as much of it lately for various reasons. It was all much easier when we were allowed

Thanks Jim! To keep nearby parts from blowing away you can cover them with Kapton tape or a heat shield improvised from aluminum foil. I would not have thought of using a heatgun. Can this be used

auto-generated. Then return to subtitles, and select auto-translate to English or German or whatever your heart desires. The help that is available on this forum is exceptional! Thanks Robin!

"hwalker" <herbwalker2476@...> wrote: I've used a Black&Decker paint stripper to remove soldered 486DX ceramic through hole CPU chips with no damage or lost parts. It's a fine art. :) Very

Stefan, on Youtube, go to controls, switch on subtitles, select Portuguese, auto-generated. Then return to subtitles, and select auto-translate to English or German or whatever your heart

I'm confused on the High port calibration when no signal generator is available. I understand that the idea is to measure a good clear signal within the 240-240MHz range on the LOW port, then feed

Jim, I'm not sure if the word "gentle" and a heat gun the size of the one shown in the YouTube video belong in the same sentence :) I wonder how Erik replaces smd components with multiple pin counts

Gentle use of a heat gun works well. https://youtu.be/ekZkCjOcCKY You don't need that much power. I have often used the classic Ungar 6966. To keep nearby parts from blowing away you can cover them

Hi Herb, I've been pretty spoilt with my HP and Tektronix scopes, they are pretty hardy! I've blown up a NanoVNA and this TinySA, testing my Icom-IC745 HF radio which has frequency stability

My HP has that thoughtfully added in the front panel artwork. I guess they say that often enough they thought it necessary. Even so I try to stay well below that limit. 73 -Jim NU0C "hwalker"

Stefan, Because the tinySA is so inexpensive its easy to overlook the maximum power and dc input specifications.? When a spectrum analyzer is >$500 then the maximum input specification is usually the

My attempt to install the tinySA-saver on Debian 10 ends with following error: martin@martin:~/tinysa-saver$ python3.7 -m pip install . Processing /home/martin/tinysa-saver Collecting PyQt5 (from