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Curious as to whether anyone has done a modification to their standard Taig lathe by adding the Taig milling variable speed motor and controller (see link below). If so, how do you like it and how did you set it up? 2023ER Micro Mill | TAIG Tools

I have another set of soft jaws in addition to the set that comes with the 3 jaw chuck. What is the maximum diameter that I can safely machine on the Taig Lathe without a headstock riser? Part no. 1050 https://taigtools.com/product/3-jaw-3-1-4-dia-self-centering-scroll-chuck/ From the part no 1050 description>>> >Soft jaws are easy to bore out, thereby making the chuck run very concentric to the spindle. When using 3 jaw chucks the operator should bore out the jaws to enable the chuck to run concentric to the spindle. To bore out the jaws you put a round washer in the back of the jaws (washer touching chuck body) and tighten down on it. You then take light cuts on the jaws with a boring bar to clean up the jaw tips. When done there will be a small protrusion on the jaws where the washer was. This can be removed with a file. Once bored out, the chuck should run concentric to the lathe. < I think I have a 2.25" piece of round bar steel that I want to machine to fit inside a hole of a paint pot to make my own DIY vacuum for resin, and then I will take it to a friend for weld Should I bore it out? I will look on Carter's website for tips. I will look for a video. I went to a metal supermarkets type store locally, we finally got a little store, but he doesn't even have any brass and nickel brass made him roll his eyes... Thanks, Tamra

Taig offers a relatively large motor. I'm very interested in hearing from people who have used different (smaller) motors in their setups.

Hello! I'm really not sure if I've done something wrong in assembling the Powerfeed kit, or whether Taig made the riser block for the lather bed too shallow. Can someone please give me an opinion on this? The attached pictures are of a lathe and Powerfeed kit that I've had stored for a while, and I'm just now getting around to putting it all together. I also have a cnc-ready mill, but it's not in service yet, so I've done the lathe bed pedestal reversal thing for now, hoping to mill that flange off at some later date. The problem I'm having is that the Powerfeed's pulley shaft isn't high enough to allow the pulley to go on, let alone the belt to slip over. Have I messsed up somehow? But if the bed's riser block really is just too shallow for whatever reason, I can certainly cut a piece of Baltic Birch, get some longer bolts, and shim it up. Thoughts? And yes, I've realized that the Powerfeed's pulley was not intended to work with the particular belt and pulley set I'm using, If someone has wisdom on getting that combination to work, that'd be great as well. :-) Thanks! - Bob

Hello, I'm contemplating the purchase of a Taig in kit form. My question, though I'm not even sure if I'll need it, is can it be ugraded to a vetsion with the long leadscrew?

When I Wind my dial for the cross slide it jams or unwinds. I have extended the screw for the cross slide to extend the range. to enable me to make a bass bow frog as I am a bow maker. I have modified the screw to work the other way for an European screw and made a new brass eye. I am surprised there is no screw that comes in from the side to lock in place Any ideas. Ron

Hi all, I have a 2019 ER Taig Micro Mill for sale. Great condition. Currently has an aluminum fixture plate attached from Saunders Machine Works. I also installed a 3 axis DRO and will include an older Samsung Galaxy tablet for the DRO readout. Asking $1200 + actual shipping charges. I'll attempt to attach photos here but if that doesn't work for some reason send me a note and I'll email/text them to you. -Chris 856.889.8184

Has anyone come across any designs for a more formidable live center for the Taig? I bought one of the little needle bearing live centers and it seems a little sloppy. I'm also confronting the possibility that I may have some misalignment either in my headstock squareness issues with my chuck. As of now I'm not having an easy time cutting lengths over 2" at around .5" diameter, even with the center. I'm pretty familiar with typical chatter but this looks more irregular patterns that aren't as uniform and wavy. I'm pretty new to this machine and am just trying to get a feel for what improvements need to be made to get it running as accurately and smoothly as possible. I just ordered Tony Jeffries' book so hopefully that will help illuminate some things.

I just attended the International Guild of Miniature Artisan's Guild School in Castine Maine this month. I turned Sterling Silver for the first time, but our class used the Sherline Lathe. I did enjoy using Sherline's compound slide. I do own the Taig Compound slide, but it is not marked for the angles. Is there any documentation on making one, with markings that is similar to Sherline's product? (My vase and wine cup are great, as long as you do not hold the instructions in your hand and measure with calipers.) Of course I can practice in a different metal, but ultimately, I would like to turn these again and gain more accuracy to the instructions. A Vase & wine cup in 1/12th scale. I would like to do the projects again, on my Taig lathe, but wondering how to get past, ordering a sherline lathe, which is NOT on the list. I do not own all the machinists magazines, but inquiring if anyone has ran across a solution in your experiences. Thanks - Tamra

Hi all, Just looking for some verification that my peatol/taig lathe is performing within expected tolerances. I have owned my lathe for a few years but haven't given it much use mainly due to lack of time and adequate workshop space. I am definitely novice level having no previous machining experience so please excuse me if I have made any measurement mistakes or my terminology is not correct. The lathe I bought new but the 4 jaw chuck was second hand. When I first received the chuck I dismantled it for cleaning but did not mark which Jaw came from which slot so I have no idea if the Jaws are in the correct position. After the cleaning operation I read that some 4 jaw chuck jaws are ground true (at 90 degrees to the face of the chuck) in the factory so the jaws should always be used in their original slot, I'm not sure if this applies to the Taig 4 jaw. Also i have noticed I can see a slither of light between one of the jaws and the work piece which I know if not good. Wondering it this alone is enough to warrant grinding the jaws or buying a new chuck? I do not own a test bar so used my taig live center (1/2" ground steel bar) as a reference bar. I mounted my DTI stand to the cross slide and used a lever test indicator, with 0.0005" markings, to take the following measurements: First I chucked up the live center tip in a 1/4" Taig standard collet. I though this test would give me a rough idea of what was considered accurate. Now I measured the run out at 2 distances from the chuck jaws @ 0.2" = 0.0015" @ 1.2" = 0.006" I was actually quite surprised at how high the runout is.... does it seem high to anyone else? Setup measuring the runout of the live center tip Then I chucked up the live center main body in the 4 jaw and adjusted the runout to within 0.0005". @0.3" = 0.0005" @1.3" = 0.002" @2.3" = 0.0038" Next I positioned the Lever Test Indicator so that it faced the chuck and I could measure the 'runout' on the face of the chuck (not sure of the terminology to describe this measurement). I measured fairly close to the outside of the chuck so approximately 1.5" from the spindle center line. The 'runout' was 0.0015". Measuring the 'runout' of the chuck face perpendicular to the spindle axis So I was wondering if someone has similar measurements I to compare to mine? Or can people tell me at a glance whether these measurements seem within acceptable tolerance for the Taig? Also any constructive criticism about my measurement setup or procedure, terminology is welcome. Next I will turn a bar between centers to check my Tailstock alignment. A visual inspection shows that the Tailstock center is a bit lower that the Headstock center. Has anyone got any advice on shimming the tailstock a fraction? Thanks fro reading and thanks in advance for any feedback or guidance you can give me. Dave

https://www.amazon.com/Dividing-Indexing-Positioning-Automation-Equipment/dp/B08JQ3X6NB/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2IZWLI33W0UCL&keywords=Iron+36%2F40%2F48Hole+Z023+Dividing+Table+Indexing+Plate+Table+Dividend+Plate&qid=1691948142&sprefix=iron+36%2F40%2F48hole+z023+dividing+table+indexing+plate+table+dividend+plate%2Caps%2C294&sr=8-1 https://www.amazon.com/Dividing-Indexing-Rotary-Milling-Machine/dp/B07XZ8PBK5/ref=sr_1_8?crid=2IZWLI33W0UCL&keywords=Iron+36%2F40%2F48Hole+Z023+Dividing+Table+Indexing+Plate+Table+Dividend+Plate&qid=1691948213&sprefix=iron+36%2F40%2F48hole+z023+dividing+table+indexing+plate+table+dividend+plate%2Caps%2C294&sr=8-8 These little index plates are available on Amazon and eBay for $5 to $10. Seem to be a perfect size for the Taig pulley. The center hole in the indexing plate is 1.1 inch diameter versus the 1.125 hole in the Taig pulley. I attached mine to the pulley using two M3 screws ~4mm long. Bill