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Hi Jon,

I wonder if you could try placing one of those clear, plastic mats on the carpet to roll the cart on, at least under the area where the cart will connect to the layout. They are sold in office supply stores for putting your rolling computer chair on. It protects the carpet and gives the chair a smooth, easy surface to roll on. I am thinking maybe without the plastic mat the cart will sink into the carpet and you will have a hard time getting the track on the staging cart to line up, heightwise, with the track on the layout.

Just one idea....

Paul K.


At 01:42 PM 3/23/01, jonp@... wrote:

Has anyone tried using a staging cart on a carpeted floor?
The floor in the room is carpeted, so I think I would have to
investigate different casters to see which would work well on a soft
surface. (I've been told that lifting up the carpet is not an
option!)

Paul Kossart - Peru, Illinois, USA
BRHS, La Salle & Bureau County Model Railroad Club

Proto-Freelancing The CB&Q Illiniwek River Branch in HO in the 1960's...
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"Serving Agriculture and Industry in the Illiniwek River Valley since 1904."
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Hello --

Thanks for the suggestion. I already have two of those things in the
room (it's our office) so one or two more shouldn't be a problem. I
knew I should have gone for the hardwood flooring when we bought the
house!

Thanks --

Jon


--- In small-layout-design@y..., Paul/Celine Kossart <kozys@t...>
wrote:

Hi Jon,

I wonder if you could try placing one of those clear, plastic mats

on the

carpet to roll the cart on, at least under the area where the cart

will

connect to the layout. They are sold in office supply stores for

putting

your rolling computer chair on. It protects the carpet and gives

the chair

a smooth, easy surface to roll on. I am thinking maybe without the

plastic

mat the cart will sink into the carpet and you will have a hard

time

getting the track on the staging cart to line up, heightwise, with

the

track on the layout.

Just one idea....

Paul K.


At 01:42 PM 3/23/01, jonp@b... wrote:

Has anyone tried using a staging cart on a carpeted floor?
The floor in the room is carpeted, so I think I would have to
investigate different casters to see which would work well on a

soft

surface. (I've been told that lifting up the carpet is not an
option!)

Paul Kossart - Peru, Illinois, USA
BRHS, La Salle & Bureau County Model Railroad Club

Proto-Freelancing The CB&Q Illiniwek River Branch in HO in the

1960's...

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"Serving Agriculture and Industry in the Illiniwek River Valley

since 1904."

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Hi Folks,
Just for fun I thought I would see what I could do with
an 18" x36" peice of hollow core door and some N scale track.
I like yards and switching industries, so this was my challenge:
1) A few long sidings, say 18" to 24" where more than one
industry or loading bay could be located. This would allow for
fun/headaches when spotting certain cars.
2) Perhaps 3-5 industries to be served. This should include a
team track for rolling stock variety.
3) Hidden staging capable on holding/loading at least 4-6 cars or so.
4) Perhaps one trailing point with siding to complicate matters.
(of course, that would take it out of the "pointless " category!)

Here's what I'm thinking:

_______________________________________
|========================1 |
|========================2 l=====l |
|-------->backdrop<---------|l=====l |< 3 road traverser
| indust 1 indust 2 #|l=====l |
|========================3 #| == |
|team track =============4 #| == |< engine escape(run around)
|========================5 #| == |
| crew &#92;&#92; <point #-----------|< indust 4 against backdrop
| hut/mow =========6 #========== |
|__________________________#___________|
^
road
overpass
(view block)

Ok, here's how it might work:
-Start with 4-5 (depending on length) cars on track 1&2 (hidden)
-Loco on traverser picks up cars from track 1 and delivers them
one at a time to various industries/spots.
-For siding 6, loco takes car off of track 1. Loco moves onto escape
track. The traverser is moved up/down one. Loco moves onto traverser
and runs light into scene. Move traverser into position with car
lined
up. Loco moves back and picks up car.Traverser moves to track 5. Loco
pulls forward,takes the point and spots car on track 6. Voila!
-Now you can add additional cars from track 2 if you're up to the
challenge, or take the cars back off to track 1 first.

I think it could get interesting!!
What inspired me was a homemade video on Montana Rail Link where
various cuts dissappeared and re-emerged from under an overpass as
the consist was put together. I figured the additional cars and run
around were off screen (literally) somewhere on the other side of
that
overpass. Why not add a couple of industries (a la David Barrow)and
operate it as it would be seen from the videographer's point of view?

I've fiddled with it on a 50% reduced plan on paper, and I think it
should work. Has anyone constructed/operated a similar plan?
I'm thinking of naming it "Stubby,Montana" for obvious reasons :>)

Cheers,
Jeff Hatcher

Hello Jeff --

An interesting idea -- let us know if you actually build it.

Like your 2-scene layout that you proposed in an earlier post and
that we sketched up at --



-- it seems to me that the "Stubby, Montana" sort of layout would be
ideal for historical societies and such. A local scene or a
significant scene from a prototype could be modelled and then easily
transported to shows.

I've not seen many historical groups' displays, but those I have seen
tend to be static -- usually, they have displays of photos and a few
relics from the railway. If there is any sort of "layout" present,
it tends to be a static diorama.

Your approach with a fiddle track that simulates the in-and-out-of-
view perspective of a particular viewing location could be a good way
to display a scene that's not any larger than a diorama but that also
incorporates some operation and action.

Thanks -- Jon

jonp@...

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Visit the Toronto Hamilton & Buffalo Railway
Historical Society Website at

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -



--- In small-layout-design@y..., "Jeff Hatcher" <thehatchers@t...>
wrote:

Hi Folks,
Just for fun I thought I would see what I could do with
an 18" x36" peice of hollow core door and some N scale track.
I like yards and switching industries, so this was my challenge:
1) A few long sidings, say 18" to 24" where more than one
industry or loading bay could be located. This would allow for
fun/headaches when spotting certain cars.
2) Perhaps 3-5 industries to be served. This should include a
team track for rolling stock variety.
3) Hidden staging capable on holding/loading at least 4-6 cars or

so.

4) Perhaps one trailing point with siding to complicate matters.
(of course, that would take it out of the "pointless " category!)

Here's what I'm thinking:

_______________________________________
|========================1 |
|========================2 l=====l |
|-------->backdrop<---------|l=====l |< 3 road traverser
| indust 1 indust 2 #|l=====l |
|========================3 #| == |
|team track =============4 #| == |< engine escape(run

around)

|========================5 #| == |
| crew &#92;&#92; <point #-----------|< indust 4 against

backdrop

| hut/mow =========6 #========== |
|__________________________#___________|
^
road
overpass
(view block)

Ok, here's how it might work:
-Start with 4-5 (depending on length) cars on track 1&2 (hidden)
-Loco on traverser picks up cars from track 1 and delivers them
one at a time to various industries/spots.
-For siding 6, loco takes car off of track 1. Loco moves onto

escape

track. The traverser is moved up/down one. Loco moves onto

traverser

and runs light into scene. Move traverser into position with car
lined
up. Loco moves back and picks up car.Traverser moves to track 5.

Loco

pulls forward,takes the point and spots car on track 6. Voila!
-Now you can add additional cars from track 2 if you're up to the
challenge, or take the cars back off to track 1 first.

I think it could get interesting!!
What inspired me was a homemade video on Montana Rail Link where
various cuts dissappeared and re-emerged from under an overpass as
the consist was put together. I figured the additional cars and run
around were off screen (literally) somewhere on the other side of
that
overpass. Why not add a couple of industries (a la David Barrow)and
operate it as it would be seen from the videographer's point of

view?

I've fiddled with it on a 50% reduced plan on paper, and I think it
should work. Has anyone constructed/operated a similar plan?
I'm thinking of naming it "Stubby,Montana" for obvious reasons :>)

Cheers,
Jeff Hatcher

Hello All --

This question is for people who have built layouts in bedrooms and
home offices or any sort of room that had to remain available for
activities other than the layout:

What sort of room preparation, if any, did you do to the room before
building the layout?

Has anyone installed any extra lighting or power outlets in the
bedroom or office or whatever before building their layout?

If you did put in such improvements, did you make them permanent
(inside the wall) or temporary (with stick-on surface wiring channels
or whatever)?

Has anyone coved the corners of a small room for their layout, even
though the room also had to serve as a "conventional" room for other
uses?

I'm just trying to get an idea for what sort of infrastructure
changes people are willing to make for small or temporary or LTLT
(less-than-lifetime) layouts.

Thanks --

Jon Piasecki

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Visit the Toronto Hamilton & Buffalo Railway
Historical Society Website at

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Jon,
My situation as a renter is definitely different from homeowners. The only
semi permanent thing I installed was metal shelf brackets, no lights or
coving.
Ken

jonp@... wrote:

Now and then I've been sent on 3 to 6 month assignments in other
cities, and I've wondered what you could do with a layout in a hotel
room. Here is what I came up with, based on looking at some
Continental Modeller plans (mentioned in a post above) and some
equivalent discussion on the www.worldrailfans.org discussion list.

First, I measured the drawers in all the high-boys, bureaus, etc. in
the house and found that they all seem to have a pretty much standard
27 inch inside clearance. I am assuming that if you have a layout in
a hotel, the maids aren't going to have the remotest idea of what to
do with it, so you want to hide it in a drawer during the day. I've
subsequently measured the drawers available in hotel bureaus or
equivalent, and again, in most cases there is a 27 inch clearance.
Too bad you can't specify this in your reservations with the travel
agency.

I got a scrap piece of 3/4 inch plywood from the lumberyard cut to a
dimension of 27 inches by (I think) 8 inches. You pretty much only
have N scale as an option here. I also pretty much followed
the "Rigby south yard" plan in MR; had to eliminate one track. I
used Kato Unitrack, weathered and rails painted, to minimize
wiring. I was planning to use just a 9 volt battery and a DPDT
switch for operation, but I think even N scale locos may drain the
battery pretty fast. I modified a freeware computer program to
provide car routing. With no runaround, you need two locos to run
it, the same as the Rigby South Yard layout. I got to the point of
test-running and operating it, but never got as far as adding a 1/8
inch Masonite partial backdrop, and haven't taken it with me on a
business trip yet, though maybe I need to reconsider this!

This will probably work best if you get to drive to the city where
you're assigned, rather than fly. For flying you would need to have
a way to check the container, since you are likely to have REAL
problems with security taking it as carryon.

For those who have never heard of it, there is a UK magazine called
Model Trains International, which specialises in small layouts, from
anywhere in the world. The current issue has an article on
Yugoslavian Forestry railways, an S gauge "shelf" set in Maine, a
small line set in a Kent coalfield, etc. My connection is that I do
some of the trackplans and artwork for the publisher Chris Ellis.
It is a subscription only magazine - If you are interested, please
email me, for details

I don't appear to have that trackplan - any cahance of a copy?


--- In small-layout-design@y..., j.bruce@g... wrote:

Now and then I've been sent on 3 to 6 month assignments in other
cities, and I've wondered what you could do with a layout in a

hotel

room. Here is what I came up with, based on looking at some
Continental Modeller plans (mentioned in a post above) and some
equivalent discussion on the www.worldrailfans.org discussion list.

First, I measured the drawers in all the high-boys, bureaus, etc.

in

the house and found that they all seem to have a pretty much

standard

27 inch inside clearance. I am assuming that if you have a layout

in

a hotel, the maids aren't going to have the remotest idea of what

to

do with it, so you want to hide it in a drawer during the day.

I've

subsequently measured the drawers available in hotel bureaus or
equivalent, and again, in most cases there is a 27 inch clearance.
Too bad you can't specify this in your reservations with the travel
agency.

I got a scrap piece of 3/4 inch plywood from the lumberyard cut to

a

dimension of 27 inches by (I think) 8 inches. You pretty much only
have N scale as an option here. I also pretty much followed
the "Rigby south yard" plan in MR; had to eliminate one track. I
used Kato Unitrack, weathered and rails painted, to minimize
wiring. I was planning to use just a 9 volt battery and a DPDT
switch for operation, but I think even N scale locos may drain the
battery pretty fast. I modified a freeware computer program to
provide car routing. With no runaround, you need two locos to run
it, the same as the Rigby South Yard layout. I got to the point of
test-running and operating it, but never got as far as adding a 1/8
inch Masonite partial backdrop, and haven't taken it with me on a
business trip yet, though maybe I need to reconsider this!

This will probably work best if you get to drive to the city where
you're assigned, rather than fly. For flying you would need to

have

a way to check the container, since you are likely to have REAL
problems with security taking it as carryon.

Hello All --

Not sure if this has been posted on this list before or not.

Check out --



-- for a nicely scenicked John Allen Timesaver switching layout.

Thanks --

Jon Piasecki
jonp@...
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Visit the Toronto Hamilton & Buffalo Railway
Historical Society Website at
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Hi all,

Please excuse the cross-list posting on this and the possible encroachment into the dreaded "off-topic zone" but I know there are many who would be interested in the following news:


Apparently the TP&W Historical Society has risen from the ashes. Last week in the mail I received the Society's newsletter, The Prarie Marksman, along with a color photograph of two of the road's GP-20's #'s2016 & 2052 taken in November of 1999 at the Hoosier Lift Intermodal Facility near Remington, IN.

Jerry Reinmann is heading up the group and Mark Lagomarcino is the newsletter editor. Following are some excerpts from Jerry's editorial in the Marksman. [used with permission]:

"As you know the TP&W RR HS has had very little activity in the last few years...Since Rail America bought the property [June, 1999]...I have talked to the Rail America vice president in charge of the TP&W and the superintendent...We are now permitted to enter the property if we stay in the parking area. For now do not cross any tracks into the operating area....

...most important is the Society news. On April 22, a group met and a reorganization committee was formed. All officers and board members have been asked to continue until the next regular meeting. Many members have paid annual dues and in effect, they have gotten nothing in return and this will be solved by carrying on until caught up....

...Persons wishing to join the Society for the year 2000 will pay dues equal to the amount of newsletters they receive. If they receive one newsletter, they pay one fourth of the annual dues amount, two newsletters would be one half and so forth...

...We are ready to roll again."


The TP&W HS now has a Home Page at:



and can be reached via email at:

tpwrrhs@...

Editor Mark Lagomarcino states, "Let us know what your email address is and we will keep you up to date on society news between newsletters. We have a strict privacy policy, your email address will not be given out. You may contact us on matters of Society business or write to see if we are really paying attention! Just write."

The Society's snail mail (fmail!) address is:

615 Bullock Street
Eureka, IL

and the phone contact given is:

309-467-3372.


I'm sure many of us are glad to be reading the above and wish the Society the best as they get rolling again. Call, email, or fmail and offer your encouragement, support, and appreciation. I have.


Paul Kossart - Peru, Illinois, USA
BRHS, TP&WHS, La Salle & Bureau County Model Railroad Club

Proto-Freelancing The CB&Q Illiniwek River Branch in HO in the 1960's...
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"Serving Agriculture and Industry in the Illiniwek River Valley since 1904."
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Hi guys,

Since I posted the message below, there have been a few changes. I
have purchased a townhouse with a room in the basement approx.
18x11.5 plus 3x8 with room in an adjacent room for hidden staging.
This will likely change the whole concept as there is the possibility
of two levels and some mainline running. I will work on the design
while I redo the room from wood panelling to drywall with proper
lighting, etc.

The group has been pretty quiet lately, hasn't it?

Brian in Prince George BC

Modelling CPR in Nelson in 1963

--- In small-layout-design@y..., b-freemantle@h... wrote:

Hi guys,

Thanks for all the ideas. I may be moving to a place with a

slightly

larger layout space in a year or less, so things likely won't be a
tight as my original description. I'm thinking in terms of a 9x12
bedroom with both door and closet at the same end.
_____________________________________
| | |
| | |
| |
| |
| |
| | |
|___| |
| &#92; |
| &#92;_________________________________|



Your comments got me thinking and I think I'll concentrate on the
warehouse area just east of the main body of the yard and the

freight

house and fuel dealers near the west end of the yard. The diesel
shop will be there in between as the back drop for my locomotive
pictures, just as it is in most of my prototype photos. The yard
tracks will be minimally represented and space will mean the
turntable and roundhouse will be on the backdrop. I see that I can
exaggerate the bends in the yard to wrap it around three sides of

the

room

Hello Brian --

Congratulations on the new house! Keep us posted on your room prep
and layout progress.

Your excitement over the discovery of new space sounds familiar.
When I realised that I had a 10-by-20 foot room in the basement
available, my layout ideas took off too. Unfortunately, some reality
set in and I realised that a lot of my ideas were unworkable.

I won't go into details, but will offer one important hint: when
drawing your layout plans, make an effort to draw them TO SCALE.

Make a scale drawing of your space and either make or buy a track
template that matches the scale of your room drawing. Draw curves
and turnouts -- turnouts in particular! -- to scale. These things
are a lot bigger than you might think!

Starting from the beginning with to-scale drawings will give you a
much more accurate idea of what can fit in your space. It will save
you from a lot of disappointment.

Even when sketching free-hand, make an effort to accurately represent
your curves and turnouts. When I sketch free-hand, I draw a turnout
first and then scale the free-hand drawing from that initial doodle.

Thanks --

Jon Piasecki
jonp@...
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Visit the Toronto Hamilton & Buffalo Railway
Historical Society Website at
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

--- In small-layout-design@y..., b-freemantle@h... wrote:

Hi guys,

Since I posted the message below, there have been a few changes. I
have purchased a townhouse with a room in the basement approx.
18x11.5 plus 3x8 with room in an adjacent room for hidden staging.
This will likely change the whole concept as there is the

possibility

of two levels and some mainline running. I will work on the design
while I redo the room from wood panelling to drywall with proper
lighting, etc.

--- In small-layout-design@y..., "Jonathan Piasecki" <jonp@b...>
wrote:

I won't go into details, but will offer one important hint: when
drawing your layout plans, make an effort to draw them TO SCALE.

Even when sketching free-hand, make an effort to accurately
represent your curves and turnouts. When I sketch free-hand, I
draw a turnout first and then scale the free-hand drawing from that
initial doodle.

I'd go even further and say that the investment in a good model
railroad design package like CADRail or 3rdPlanIt is well worth the
cost. Doodles are good to start but are almost always too optimistic
in terms of what will fit in real life.

I tried both CADRail and 3rdPlanIt and prefer 3rdPlanIt. It seems to
fit my way of thinking better.

Barry Cott
Calgary, AB

I'd probably use a piece of 3/4 thick hardwood plywood finished to
look like a floor. I'd expect that the plastic would dimple over
time. At least that's been my experience with those plastic mats in
an office environment. They're just a bit too flexible.

--- In small-layout-design@y..., Paul/Celine Kossart <kozys@t...>
wrote:

Hi Jon,

I wonder if you could try placing one of those clear, plastic mats

on the

carpet to roll the cart on, at least under the area where the cart

will

connect to the layout.

Hello --

I presently have two of those plastic chair mat things in the
office/possible layout room and, yeah, they get dimpled. They depth
of the dimples varies depending on the hardness of the surface
underneath the sheet -- the carpet in the room is somewhat soft, so
the dimples are pretty deep.

I wonder if the "fake hardwood" laminate flooring available from Home
Depot and other floor covering shops might be useable. The flooring
is 1/4" or so MDF with a woodgrain laminate surface. I doubt this
material would dimple or deform under weight, but I think it would be
somewhat unstable if laid over a carpeted floor -- it is intended to
be laid directly over old vinyl flooring or decrepit hardwood or some
other relatively hard surface. Perhaps a 1/4" sheet of plywood
subfloor with the laminate flooring secured to it would work. Trim
it all up nicely with some hardwood trim and it could look quite
presentable.

All of this may be a moot point -- this year we wrote off the room as
a business expense on our taxes, so I don't think I can use the room
for "personal use" stuff anymore. The Canadian tax bureau people
showed up the other day and installed an RMC (Remote Monitoring
Camera) in the room to make sure it is only used for business, so I
doubt that I can put a layout in there now.

Thanks --

Jon Piasecki
jonp@...

I don't mind the remote camera in the room,
but the GPS transmitters in my underwear
really bug me.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Visit the Toronto Hamilton & Buffalo Railway
Historical Society Website at
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

All of this may be a moot point -- this year we

wrote off the room as

a business expense on our taxes, so I don't think I

can use the room

for "personal use" stuff anymore. The Canadian tax

bureau people

showed up the other day and installed an RMC

(Remote Monitoring

Camera) in the room to make sure it is only used

for business, so I

doubt that I can put a layout in there now.

THEY DO THIS IN CANADA? Good God, if they tried that
here in the states people would be rioting in the
streets!

Jon:

As an employee of said tax bureau, I can appreciate the
joke. While I would like to enlarge on the idea, I can't.

Regarding the flooring problem, large wide casters may solve
some of the problem by spreading the weight and making it
easier to roll the cart. Otherwise, the only real solution
is the impossible one: Remove the carpet and replace it with
DIY hardwood or laminate flooring. When it comes to
laminate, the better quality the better. The cheaper stuff
uses less dense MDF and won't last as long.

Brian in Prince George, BC,

Modelling CPR in Nelson, BC in 1963

Hi all,

I've been trying out a few ideas, but think my earlier idea
of wrapping the whole Nelson complex around two or three
sides of the room still has merit. A large part of the
switching action in the area was in Nelson at that time.
There was also some at Castlegar and Slocan City with the
majority at the Cominco smelter at Trail.

Slocan City is 42 miles away at the end of a 30 mile branch
and there is one sawmill there. By 1963 the two or three
other mills on the branch had been bought up and closed.
Slocan City also had the barge slip for the Slocan Lake
barge service to Rosebery (correct spelling) to connect with
the Kalso subdivision for service to New Denver (Imperial
Oil fuel dealer) and Nakusp (sawmill, pole yard and fuel
dealer). Slocan could be represented by staging or by a
scene on the lower level connected by a helix or a trip
around the entire basement.

Another possibility is a moveable "barge" to connect to
Rosebery. That would be one way of getting past either the
door or the gap needed for access to the electrical panel.
Serving New Denver would be fun, since the grade to the site
of the fuel dealer was about 4%.

One scene I would really like to build is the bridges across
the Kootenay River. The track takes a fairly sharp turn to
cross the river on three sets of bridges joining two small
rocky islands in the river, then an even sharper turn to
continue down the north side of the river.

Castlegar, Trail and points west would be represented by
staging, as would points east of Nelson. Outbound loads go
east to Cranbrook, even if they are going west to Vancouver.
There was still some traffic west to Penticton but how much
will be the subject of further research.

Just writing this has helped solidify some ideas. Now all I
have to do to work them out on paper. I do plan to get 3rd
Planit, but the budget won't allow it any time soon.

Brian in Prince George, BC,

Modelling CPR in Nelson, BC in 1963

Hello Brian --

Sorry about the jab! It was just a joke, though.

For the record, everyone: the federal tax agency in Canada does NOT
install surveillance equipment in our homes or offices or home
offices. At least as far as I know they don't.

About laminate flooring: because the office is rather small and is
getting crowded with two desks and two computers, I think I will
abandon that location for the shelf-type layout. We're about to get
started on finishing the basement, so the layout will likely go into
a similarly sized area (about 10 by 12 or so) down there.

How well will laminate flooring stand up in the basement? The floor
is a poured concrete slab. The basement itself is dry, but there
seems to be moisture evaporating through the floor (if that makes
sense). Because of this, I am concerned about putting anything even
partially organic down on the floor -- I'm concerned that the MDF in
the laminate may absorb moisture and rot. Anyone have any experience
with this sort of flooring?

Thanks --

Jon Piasecki
jonp@...
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Visit the Toronto Hamilton & Buffalo Railway
Historical Society Website at
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

--- In small-layout-design@y..., "Brian Freemantle" <b-
freemantle@h...> wrote:

Jon:

As an employee of said tax bureau, I can appreciate the
joke. While I would like to enlarge on the idea, I can't.

Regarding the flooring problem, large wide casters may solve
some of the problem by spreading the weight and making it
easier to roll the cart. Otherwise, the only real solution
is the impossible one: Remove the carpet and replace it with
DIY hardwood or laminate flooring. When it comes to
laminate, the better quality the better. The cheaper stuff
uses less dense MDF and won't last as long.