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So a friend of mine for a quantar on vhf. Read the repeater saved the original file. Sitting on 155 something and was set up as p25.?
that’s what we wanted so hit validate to make sure all the settings were good?
it passed.?
so we wrote the frequency and wrote to it. Somewhere it failed and now we can’t read or write to the machine. What do we do?
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The Quantar software tends to get buggy and crash when switching back and forth between the normal settings and the diagnostic panel. When the software locks up it's best just to reboot the whole computer and start over.
Also if you programmed a frequency outside the Quantars range it may be going spaz because the VCOs won't lock. This happens to me when tuning the VCOs and I have to power cycle the Quantar which will default it back to a channel that is capable of VCO lock.
I'd try a shut down, pull the Exciter and Receiver out and start back up and see if that gets you taking to the system controller again.
So a friend of mine for a quantar on vhf. Read the repeater saved the original file. Sitting on 155 something and was set up as p25.?
that’s what we wanted so hit validate to make sure all the settings were good?
it passed.?
so we wrote the frequency and wrote to it. Somewhere it failed and now we can’t read or write to the machine. What do we do?
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I have been trying to reload the original file.?
and I seen after the fact that the time and date was wrong in the pc. I will try to pull the exciter out but when I hit validate on the original file I get error 020 possible of hardware error can not write to serial port.?
I’ll see if pulling the card helps but right now I’m ? that this thing seems to be bricked?
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Pulled all cards and reseated them no go.?
question does the ip address and all that other information have to be filled in when programming basic channel information.?
buddy is pissed spent good money on this thing. Had it ten minutes and it’s a brick.?
real shame the original file won’t take?
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The IP address should only be needed if you are trying to update the firmware via the BNC ethernet jack on the back.
Are you able to read the Quantar with the software at all? I mean don't try to write or validate, just read the current config settings?
Pulled all cards and reseated them no go.?
question does the ip address and all that other information have to be filled in when programming basic channel information.?
buddy is pissed spent good money on this thing. Had it ten minutes and it’s a brick.?
real shame the original file won’t take?
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You most likely have a bad EEPROM.
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There is an AT2864 PLCC chip in a socket toward the front edge of the SCM/Controller PCB, that is notorious for going bad over time in these units. ?It wouldn't surprise me that the first time you tried to write to it, it croaked. ?Plus, the only thing that changes is that specific memory when you program it (or try to!) - nothing else is programmable or writable on the board.
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Do yourself a favor, order a tube of 10 AT2864 PLCC from either Newark or Digi-Key, you'll probably need them sooner or later when dealing with Quantars. ?It's a weak design especially when scanning, it reads and writes the chip so often it tends to wear it out early I have heard. ?Batboard has some good info out there on this issue.? The chips made by Xicor are known to fail sooner than ones made by Atmel, the Xicor chips part number begins with XR... where the Atmel are AT... so try to avoid Xicor chips if they even sell them anymore.
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I have also seen the "serial port error" message before, and I'm pretty sure that's also a side effect of that EEPROM dying.? Since you have an original read of the chip that's good, replace the IC with a new blank one and boot the station. ?It will fail to lock and come up with lots of red lights. ?Let it do that, then write the station with the saved file, and reboot. That should do it. ?Reboot the station and see if it comes up normally. ?If not, then the controller/SCM might have died, but try the chip first, its a known failure point and cheap to test.? Also, if you have another station nearby that's not on the air, try swapping the EEPROMS, and see if yours wakes up as a quick test (BACK UP the other machine FIRST!!!).? Good luck.
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Aaron N9OZB
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That is extremely good Information to have.?
at the time of reading it is before 6 am eastern time and everyone is closed except eBay?
did a search for the part number and came across this. Hopefully as for picture reference I am barking up the right tree
https://www.ebay.com/itm/123359068678?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=udMf39F7Tjy&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=ET3DGozwSda&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY 
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I'd recommend a legit supplier like Mouser or Digikey for a part like this.
Ordering EEPROMs from China risks getting you a counterfeit or old chips that have been black topped and remarked to look like new.
That is extremely good Information to have.?
at the time of reading it is before 6 am eastern time and everyone is closed except eBay?
did a search for the part number and came across this. Hopefully as for picture reference I am barking up the right tree
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I didn't know their web sites closed at night.
Mick - W7CAT
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----- Original Message ----- From: "TheCuecat via groups.io" To: [email protected]Sent: Thursday, December 19, 2024 05:21:17 AM Subject: Re: [repeater-builder] Think we bricked a quantar. That is extremely good Information to have.
at the time of reading it is before 6 am eastern time and everyone is closed except eBay did a search for the part number and came across this. Hopefully as for picture reference I am barking up the right tree
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Agreed about the EEPROM failure risk. The units more prone to failure seem to have XICOR branded 28C64s in them. I've dealt with this failure many times. Sourcing is important for legit chips. Favor the ATMEL brand. Their MTBF seems best.
73,
Matt W6XC
On Thu, Dec 19, 2024, 04:44 Teton Amateur Radio Repeater Association (TARRA) via <tarra= [email protected]> wrote:
I didn't know their web sites closed at night.
Mick - W7CAT
----- Original Message -----
From: "TheCuecat via "
To: [email protected]
Sent: Thursday, December 19, 2024 05:21:17 AM
Subject: Re: [repeater-builder] Think we bricked a quantar.
?> That is extremely good Information to have.
?> at the time of reading it is before 6 am eastern time and everyone is
closed except eBay
?> did a search for the part number and came across this. Hopefully as
for picture reference I am barking up the right tree
?>
?>
?>
?>
?>
?>
?>
--
Untitled Document
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No those are AT28256, which are bigger capacity parts.? You need the AT2864, of which there are none on eBay at the moment.? I did find someone selling the XR2864 which are the non-recommended Xicor parts.? You are probably better off going to Jameco or Digi-Key or Newark to get them.? I did find someone on eBay selling these SEEQ parts NQ2864; I don't know how reliable they are, but they probably will work:
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So called digi key today and spoke to a rep.?
ales about the part number and he kept adding the at28c64.?
I mentioned it did not have the c in the part number. Now mind you I not yet pulled anything apart so not sure what I’m looking at just yet.?
but the 28c64 is the same more or less as the 2864 without the C in the part number.?
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Arrrrrrrr NO
when I was old enough to use a Scope soldering iron
The C in the part # meant it was a CMOS chip.
And CMOS suggested it needed less juice to run it.
How are we going Jeff?
It will be a WET Xmas down here in the Tropics
Far better than sweltering in 34C daylight and 30C at night.
John @ IRLP 6163
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On 20/12/2024 9:29 am, TheCuecat via groups.io wrote: So called digi key today and spoke to a rep.
ales about the part number and he kept adding the at28c64.
I mentioned it did not have the c in the part number. Now mind you I not yet pulled anything apart so not sure what I’m looking at just yet.
but the 28c64 is the same more or less as the 2864 without the C in the part number.
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You are correct, you want the"C" variant, I believe.? You might want to double-check on your SCM board but I was using the part numbers generically.? I think the exact part is an AT28C64 PLCC.? As the other gent said it's a CMOS variant of the chip that draws less power than the non-"C" part.? I believe they can be used interchangeably, but take a peek at your SCM board and see what you have now, it's probably a CMOS part.
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Also, when you take off the speaker cover plate over the SCM, there is a little metal tab at the bottom of the cover plate assembly that sticks out about an inch.? That is a hook, and you can slide it in under a notch in the bottom edge of the SCM PCB, and use it to pull the board out of the chassis!
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That helped me narrow down what and where I’m looking to get eyes in this part. Hope it fixes my issue. Hoping to go p25 on vhf after we get this back on the air.?
any of you guys have any luck with doing p25 reflectors??
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So took the repeater apart. Turns out we had a rats nest in it.? but pulled the offending xicor chip out of.? this must an old system but attached is the picture and was pulled from the spot told. Will get on digi-key and get this ordered. But you tell me if I’m barking up the right tree here for sure. also can anything k ?this board be upgraded at all? Or is that a whole new board   
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Yes, that's the chip.? Yes, it's a disgusting mess, and some people are allergic to rat/mouse urine and feces so that can make things worse, a good friend of mine had that problem.? The firmware on the SCM board is upgradeable, but it can be very involved to reflash it.? There is no point in upgrading the actual SCM board, there were later models made, but I think they were used for trunking systems/firmware only, not conventional firmware - which is probably what you have now.
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If you want to find out more about reflashing, check out W9CR's page on Quantars, and Repeater Builder has a lot of good info on them too.? Finally, see the actual Quantar Service Manual and Quantar CSS (programming software) User Manual for the flashing procedure, but it's very complicated and requires setting up a computer as a SLIP server.
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You're on the right track.? The bad news is the rat pee may have damaged the traces on the PCB or under the socket.? If you replace the IC and it doesn't wake up, that might be why.? You may need to buy a replacement EPIC III or IV SCM board, whichever you have.? Good news is there is lots of them on eBay usually, and they are fairly cheap these days, well under $100.00 for a working SCM board.
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Good luck.? '73, Aaron N9OZB
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Pull all of the chips off of that thing, gently scrub it with some simple green and a toothbrush, and put it in the dishwasher.
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I'm not kidding.
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When it's done,? give it another heavy rinse with distilled water and leave it out to air-dry for a couple of days.
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You'd be surprised. I speak from experience.
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If it doesnt work after that, and a new EEPROM, toss it and get a replacement.
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Chris
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Chris Baldwin, CETSr. (KF6AJM)
Trustee - MetroNET Cal. Intertie (KB3PX)
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Hit enter too soon. I'm of course referring to the socketed chips, and washing the board in the dishwasher.
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The ROM SIMM will need the chips pulled off of it as well (mark everything), and manual cleaning as well.
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The chips should be cleaned the same way (minus the dishwasher) to get crud out from between the pins.
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I've got an RLC-2 that was shot, and after doing this, was 100%.
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Chris
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Chris Baldwin, CETSr. (KF6AJM)
Trustee - MetroNET Cal. Intertie (KB3PX)
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Big chance that you only need to clean the whole board properly.
Remove all the socketed chip, clean them also. You can either
clean manually with a toothbrush and dishwasher soap. after the
cleaning, you can either dry it with air or use Isopropyl alcohol,
it will displace the water and will evaporate much faster.
Test the circuit again, if you see some corrosion on some chip
pins or in pins socket, use de-oxit. It will help clean the
contact..
One other thing, rodent like to shew on wiring so check all the
wiring harness also.
Pierre
VE2PF
Le 2024-12-23 à 00:14, TheCuecat via
groups.io a écrit?:
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So took the repeater apart. Turns out we had a rats nest in
it.?
but pulled the offending xicor chip out of.?
this must an old system but attached is the picture and was
pulled from the spot told. Will get on digi-key and get this
ordered. But you tell me if I’m barking up the right tree here
for sure.
also can anything k ?this board be upgraded at all? Or is that a
whole new board   
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Matt Lechliter
Chris Baldwin
Pierre Martel