Soldering them together is fruitless. Always use Caldwell
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On May 15, 2025, at 3:16?PM, N4FOX via groups.io <N4fox.r@...> wrote:
? Been trying all day to get a 8ft grounding rod all the way down. I have 6ft in the ground. It doesn't seem to want to go deeper.?
?
I feel I've hit rock. The ground here is very rocky & mixed with red (iron rich) clay. The tower is next to the house. Its embedded in a 5ft deep concrete base. There was about 10/12ft of topsoil/earth moved to level the spot for the house. So the lack of original top soil means I'm hitting lots of rock fairly soon.?
?
This area used to be mined for iron ore. So that's why I know the ground is rich with iron deposits in that red clay. Heck my drinking water is spring fed & it's rich with iron too.?
?
So here's what I was wondering given the circumstances & type of soil for the area. Can I just get another grounding rod & drive on the other side of the tower. It will hopefully go 6ft in as well. Deeper would be nice. Then tie the two rods together with sold conductor ground wire at the copper bus bar I'm mounting on the tower. Would that be good??
?
I'm using a "maximum effort" ?? fence post driver & sledge hammer.?
?
Also I'm noticing the hole gets bigger than the grounding rod from all the labor of driving it in. I've got some pure copper powder. Would it be wise to pour some down that hole to help fill gaps & ensure good connection?
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I've seen electricans put ground rods in using
hammer drills. might be worth a try ?
Mike KA2NDW
?
?
?
On Thu, May 15, 2025 3:16
pm, N4FOX via groups.io wrote:
Been trying all day to get
a 8ft grounding rod all the way down. I have 6ft in the
ground. It doesn't seem to want to go
deeper.
?
I feel I've hit rock.
The ground here is very rocky & mixed with red (iron
rich) clay. The tower is next to the house. Its embedded
in a 5ft deep concrete base. There was about 10/12ft of
topsoil/earth moved to level the spot for the house. So
the lack of original top soil means I'm hitting lots
of rock fairly soon.
?
This area used to be mined
for iron ore. So that's why I know the ground is rich
with iron deposits in that red clay. Heck my drinking
water is spring fed & it's rich with iron
too.
?
So here's what I was
wondering given the circumstances & type of soil for
the area. Can I just get another grounding rod & drive
on the other side of the tower. It will hopefully go 6ft
in as well. Deeper would be nice. Then tie the two rods
together with sold conductor ground wire at the copper bus
bar I'm mounting on the tower. Would that be
good?
?
I'm using a
"maximum effort" ?? fence post driver &
sledge hammer.
?
Also I'm noticing the
hole gets bigger than the grounding rod from all the labor
of driving it in. I've got some pure copper powder.
Would it be wise to pour some down that hole to help fill
gaps & ensure good connection?
?
?
?
|
I had a similar issue here in northern Colorado. The soil is clay
with bedrock at 4 feet. I ended up driving each rod with a big
hammer drill until bedrock, then cut it off and drove the
remainder further away. I have a dozen 4' rods buried now. I later
read that you can put them in at an angle, even bury them
horizontally if you have no other choice.
I put the tower 70 feet from the house for aesthetic reasons, but
also because any lightning may be attenuated by the time it got to
the shack. There are ground rods at both ends.
On 5/15/2025 1:16 PM, N4FOX via
groups.io wrote:
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Been trying all day to get a 8ft grounding rod all the way
down. I have 6ft in the ground. It doesn't seem to want to go
deeper.?
?
I feel I've hit rock. The ground here is very rocky &
mixed with red (iron rich) clay. The tower is next to the house.
Its embedded in a 5ft deep concrete base. There was about
10/12ft of topsoil/earth moved to level the spot for the house.
So the lack of original top soil means I'm hitting lots of rock
fairly soon.?
?
This area used to be mined for iron ore. So that's why I know
the ground is rich with iron deposits in that red clay. Heck my
drinking water is spring fed & it's rich with iron too.?
?
So here's what I was wondering given the circumstances &
type of soil for the area. Can I just get another grounding rod
& drive on the other side of the tower. It will hopefully go
6ft in as well. Deeper would be nice. Then tie the two rods
together with sold conductor ground wire at the copper bus bar
I'm mounting on the tower. Would that be good??
?
I'm using a "maximum effort" ?? fence post driver &
sledge hammer.?
?
Also I'm noticing the hole gets bigger than the grounding rod
from all the labor of driving it in. I've got some pure copper
powder. Would it be wise to pour some down that hole to help
fill gaps & ensure good connection?
|
I started out with using water. With it 6ft down now there's no pulling it up. I have still been soaking the hole for hours today. It's just sitting there with water in it. That clay doesn't let much escape/soak in.?
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Pour water down the side of the rod and let it set a while. Repeat process several times. They try again and if it doesn¡¯t go down see if you can pull it up and pour water directly down the hole with a hose. Get it good and soaked. It may push the rock out of the way.?
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On May 15, 2025, at 2:16?PM, N4FOX via groups.io <N4fox.r@...> wrote:
? Been trying all day to get a 8ft grounding rod all the way down. I have 6ft in the ground. It doesn't seem to want to go deeper.?
?
I feel I've hit rock. The ground here is very rocky & mixed with red (iron rich) clay. The tower is next to the house. Its embedded in a 5ft deep concrete base. There was about 10/12ft of topsoil/earth moved to level the spot for the house. So the lack of original top soil means I'm hitting lots of rock fairly soon.?
?
This area used to be mined for iron ore. So that's why I know the ground is rich with iron deposits in that red clay. Heck my drinking water is spring fed & it's rich with iron too.?
?
So here's what I was wondering given the circumstances & type of soil for the area. Can I just get another grounding rod & drive on the other side of the tower. It will hopefully go 6ft in as well. Deeper would be nice. Then tie the two rods together with sold conductor ground wire at the copper bus bar I'm mounting on the tower. Would that be good??
?
I'm using a "maximum effort" ?? fence post driver & sledge hammer.?
?
Also I'm noticing the hole gets bigger than the grounding rod from all the labor of driving it in. I've got some pure copper powder. Would it be wise to pour some down that hole to help fill gaps & ensure good connection?
|
Been trying all day to get a 8ft grounding rod all the way down. I have 6ft in the ground. It doesn't seem to want to go deeper.?
?
I feel I've hit rock. The ground here is very rocky & mixed with red (iron rich) clay. The tower is next to the house. Its embedded in a 5ft deep concrete base. There was about 10/12ft of topsoil/earth moved to level the spot for the house. So the lack of original top soil means I'm hitting lots of rock fairly soon.?
?
This area used to be mined for iron ore. So that's why I know the ground is rich with iron deposits in that red clay. Heck my drinking water is spring fed & it's rich with iron too.?
?
So here's what I was wondering given the circumstances & type of soil for the area. Can I just get another grounding rod & drive on the other side of the tower. It will hopefully go 6ft in as well. Deeper would be nice. Then tie the two rods together with sold conductor ground wire at the copper bus bar I'm mounting on the tower. Would that be good??
?
I'm using a "maximum effort" ?? fence post driver & sledge hammer.?
?
Also I'm noticing the hole gets bigger than the grounding rod from all the labor of driving it in. I've got some pure copper powder. Would it be wise to pour some down that hole to help fill gaps & ensure good connection?
|
Re: Wanted MTR2000 UHF 100w PA
I've sucessfully repaired MTR2000 with bad PA transistors. Might be cheaper than buying a new PA. Got the devices from Chiner for (about 3 years ago) $16/ea.
?
GeorgeC W2DB
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Re: Arcom AP1 Intelligent Autopatch
Then it seems like there is a demand for them.
Mick - W7CAT
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----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott Morse" To: [email protected]Sent: Wednesday, May 14, 2025 06:11:23 PM Subject: Re: [repeater-builder] Arcom AP1 Intelligent Autopatch Thanks for that. Yes I just missed the boat on them. They sold I believe within two hours.
-- Untitled Document
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Re: Wanted MTR2000 UHF 100w PA
why would any one want to buy "popped Transistors"
Skull hat on
LOL
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On 15/05/2025 10:44 am, George Csahanin wrote: popped transistors?
GeorgeC W2DB
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Re: Wanted MTR2000 UHF 100w PA
popped transistors?
?
GeorgeC W2DB
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Re: Arcom AP1 Intelligent Autopatch
Thanks for that. Yes I just missed the boat on them. They sold I believe within two hours.?
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Re: Arcom AP1 Intelligent Autopatch
I think Ken from Arcom was just announcing on his RC210 groups.io that he was selling the last two they had in stock.
Joe
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On 5/14/2025 7:19 PM, Scott Morse wrote: I am looking for an Arcom AP1 Intelligent Autopatch if anyone has one for sale. The part has been discontinued so the only option is to see if I can pick up one secondhand.
Much appreciated and?73,
Scott - WB6EFW
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Arcom AP1 Intelligent Autopatch
I am looking for an Arcom AP1 Intelligent Autopatch if anyone has one for sale. The part has been discontinued so the only option is to see if I can pick up one secondhand.
?
?
Much appreciated and?73,
?
?
Scott - WB6EFW
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I have a couple of pieces of test equipment? for sale at the Hamvention that might be interest to the repeater builder group.
Note: This is for pickup only at the Hamvention.
- Agilent E7401A EMC Analyzer, 9 kHz to 1.5 GHz. $600.
- Siglent SRF5030T Near Field Probe Set (looks unused.) $275.
I will be in space 7736 on Friday and Saturday.
Tom
N3AJA
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Wanted MTR2000 UHF 100w PA
Looking for a CLN1229. Anyone have one laying around?
?
Matt
AL0R
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Re: Decibel DB-404 antennas.
Hi Rick.?
I am interested in one unit. My Gmail address is larryb33909. Please send me an email.?
thanks.?
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Hello to all,
Might someone in the group have a set of Sinclair Res-Lok mounting tabs/brackets for the Q3220E/Q4220E duplexers?
Previous owner removed the brackets but thankfully left the screws intact.
These are brushed aluminum- I do not want to make them.
Thank you for your help,
Alex
?
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For Sale/Trade: (2) Kenwood TKR-840 UHF Repeaters
OK. Time to move these as we're trying to standardize our sites on two platforms, and these don't fit in.
?
One is essentially new and unused and includes the accessory kit. Just tuned it up on a 449 pair, works fine.
?
The other needs, er, decontamination. It lived at a site with a rodent problem. When removed from service it worked fine (upgraded to an integrated 110W station). Can test if there's interest.
?
These are both the 450-470 version and both tuned into the amateur band without issue. A minor hex edit is required to the saved archive to get them in the ham band, but it's fully documented here on the list.
?
I'll entertain trades for anyone that might have Midland 71-4xxx series Base Tech II equipment, or anything Palomar Telecom. Otherwise, please drop me an off-list email (my callsign at aol dot com) and make an offer on one, or preferably, both.
?
The "used" unit was used with an RLC-4 for years and years without issue.
?
Thanks!
?
Chris/AJM
?
--
Chris Baldwin, CETSr. (KF6AJM)
Trustee - MetroNET Cal. Intertie (KB3PX)
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Re: PD526 Duplexer Tuning
Got it. ?Going in ?for my kidney surgery on Monday. Just quickly scanning emails. My head is spinning
On Wednesday, May 14, 2025, 8:42 AM, Part 15 Engineer via groups.io <kc8gpd@...> wrote: Neal as I told Bob in my reply, it opens up at at least -119 dbm at the duplexer antenna port. To me that sensitivity seems just ok and doesn't need an more amplifcation. If it opened up at -119 dbm directly into radio it would be right on spec. So currently its exceeding spec in manual. Based on my range tests I think (along with a couple locals who have 20+ years in government lmr) it's good.
Trying to squeeze a ew drops of orange juice from the pulp is not going to make a difference.? ?Most receivers say .35 uv.@20db Sinad. Is just fine.? I have found?Squelch usually opens @.2uv ?Adding a preamp alone without a preselector in front of it. Is just asking to introduce desense. If you have an additional 1-2 pass cans to place front of the preamp. You may probably be ok. That¡¯s what I do,? Most of the time.? No preamp. But that¡¯s just me. ?Neal Ka2caf
On Tuesday, May 13, 2025, 7:21 AM, Part 15 Engineer via <kc8gpd=[email protected]> wrote: Hi Bob,
I was reading the quantar manual and .35uV @ 12db sinad going directly into the quantar is spec. I have that going through the duplexer. Directly into quantar it's more like -125/-124 dbm iirc. Also .5uV is spec for full quieting, i think at 20db sinad.
So according to that I think I'm doing pretty good on sensitivity.
I think my friends uhf quantar is getting -119dbm directly to repeater. He runs his through a t1507a duplexer into a comet diplexer through 1/2 inch heliax into a comet g6 and has county wide portable coverage.
I was thinking of adding an advanced receiver research P460VDG preamp into an m/a com 10db 50ohm pad all 1/4 inch hardline jumpers.
But 1 I don't think I need the preamp with the specs I'm getting and 2 I can't seem to locate it around here anyway.
Thanks
Robert Chrysafis
Kc8gpd
Wrcm325
Scottsbluff NE
At 5/12/2025 04:46 AM, you wrote:
Update on pd526:
I tuned it on a recently calibrated r2670 and it tuned up nicely and
easily.
Less than an hour. Field tests show very little desense. Zero reflection
on a bird 43 between tx and duplexer and 50w tpo into duplexer and over
30 out on duplexer antenna port. Sensitivity through duplexer breaks at
-119dbm.
If you're saying your RX's squelch only breaks open at -119 dBm, that's
not very good IMO.? -119 dBm is 0.25 uV, so your 12 dB SINAD is
probably ~0.35 uV.? Unless your site is very noisy you should be
able to achieve 6 dB better than that.
Bob NO6B
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Re: Motorola X9000 128CH with DTMF 6M+10M to Zenia Friday
Yes, that button is direct. The 0-scramble button might be talk back scan, which I did not use. Bring your radios if you like. I packed the programmer , and can put in 51.0 into your radios if you wish, just need 120V to recharge the laptop computer battery, 13.8VDC for the radio, and an x9000 radio cable to your head. If mine is not sold, can use that one, but as you know the head and radio are programmed separately.
?
John
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On 05/14/2025 5:58 AM EDT Jeff kg2bz via groups.io <humveejeff@...> wrote:
?
?
John. Those are outstanding 10/6m rigsI have 2 of them one 64 mode the oter 32 mode. ?it looks like you have the direct mode programmed in. can you confirm? ?is there special version 9000 software for that? ?the dos software i have only gives the option of 32 or 64 mode.
?
do you have 51.0 programmed in ( military radio collectors 150 hz pl)?
?
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I will be at 7638 7738. My jeep 4door wrangler has the 64 mode . I use a comet diplexer with 2 laird lowband base loaded antennas. ? ?I have most but not all of the 6m pairs programmed (missing most 51 pairs) and all of the 10m pairs. Occasionally when skip is in I get california and missouri highway patrol
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thanks Jeff N2IA
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Wayne Childers
N4FOX
opelgtalex
Chris Baldwin