开云体育

oh well i got all the pins out for the back of the radio and they have great
rx in ther i use one for tx and one for Rx for a repeater they work
great.....i can give u that and i am working on putting them into one rack
mount at thins time use them for links also good rigs looking for more
for uhf and vhf

Tracy585@... wrote:

From: Tracy585@...

Brent,

Say, if you get a schematic, could I get a copy too? I've got one laying
around but I've never done anything with it for the same reason...

73

Tracy

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--
Brent DeSalvo (KF4TNP)
146.625- 442.100+
Lewisburg, Tennessee

Do not forget to Confirm your visit! Thanx.

looking for a schematic for these radio for the single channel and 2 channel ..
Ge Century II UHF MOBILE
Comb: M5A15
FCC TX data: KT-180-A
FCC RX data: ER-116-A



Brent DeSalvo (KF4TNP)

Do not forget to Confirm your visit! Thanx.

bill wrote:

From: "bill" <k5py@...>

kevin do you have any information on putting together a remote base.
I just never did that and i'am think about doing it. I think it would be fun
to do. thank you bill brown-----k5py.

What controller do you have?
What radio do you have available for the remote?
What band(s) do you want to link to?

Kevin

Brent,

Well, I was going to try and crystal mine up for an uhf link radio. Pin outs
would really help! So would any tune up instructions you might have.

Thanks!

TD

kevin i was thinking about building a remote base out of a 261a kenwood.
would you happen to have any info on doing that I've built repeaters but
never a remote base,thank you. bill--k5py

kevin do you have any information on putting together a remote base.
I just never did that and i'am think about doing it. I think it would be fun
to do. thank you bill brown-----k5py.

Brent,

Say, if you get a schematic, could I get a copy too? I've got one laying
around but I've never done anything with it for the same reason...

73

Tracy

"D.J.H." wrote:

From: "D.J.H." <ve6zh@...>

Yes i can recive attachments,using microsoft exploder 3.02 i believe.
Doug

Ok, I am not sure why you are only seeing message headers when html is
present. ??????
You can upgrade your Explorer to version 4.something for free at


Kevin

Bill,

Tracy, K0DOE, here. I built a dual band remote using a Kenwood TW-4000A. Works
great! I used the controller momentary outputs to 'strobe' (ground) the mic
up/down switch for frequency change. The voice module installed in the radio
outputs the frequency readback. Additional outputs from the controller could
be used to adjust power, change to vfo, etc. Guess it depends on your
controller what you will be able to do... Definitely helps to have frequency
readback! I know of several remotes that have been built without it and they
are always where their not supposed to be!

73

Tracy

In a message dated 2/15/99 9:47:10 PM Eastern Standard Time, kuggie@...
writes:

<< ve no experience with that exciter. I use the TLD 8732A
As far as the deviation goes, you should not have to change anything in the
element because of deviation. If you are able to net the crystal on frequency,
you should be able to get MORE deviation from the exciter now that it is on
220. Why? The crystal oscillator has been multiplied more times (18 instead of
12.) 417 cycles of deviation at the oscillator is necessary to make 5 kc.
deviation at the output on high band (2 meters) the same oscillator deviation
(417 cycles) should net 7.5 kc. deviationon 222 mc. You should have more than
enough deviation on 222.
Sounds to me like there is a problem with the buffer amp (Q404) or
firsttripler (Q405.)
Do you have the schematic, and trouble shooting procedure? It shouldstill
apply.
Does each stage tune at a precise peak? How about the tuning slugs,are they
all the way into the sleeve or way out?
Did you put any caps on the channel element to net it on frequency? If you did
you may have taken away the ability to deviate the oscillator.
If you cannot get this transmitter to work, I can send you a TLD 5382Astyle
exciter and channel element.
Kevin
&nbsp; >>


Kevin and the Group..
I had a problem with the crystals, doing two conversions here for 222mhz,
thats why i could not get the proper deviation..
I stopped by the local crystal manufacter here in jersey, and looks like for
the conversion the crystal needs to be cut with different specs.. (out of band
specs)..and not the regular cut..they cut the crystals with commercial specs
and it did not work properly..
So i have to way another few days for them to get me new crystals..
On some micor KXN??? elements the ones that have the varactor inside the
element, theres a cap in series with the varactor, and changing the cap has
the affect of increasing or decreasing the modulation sensitivity of the
element, thats were i thought my problem was with the deviation..
I did more then ten conversions on micors to the ham bands and only a few i
had to change this cap.......on the comp. tunning cap yes all of them i
believe i went as high as 45pf and even on some taking this cap out..

Will see when i get the channel elements back maybe i will get more then the
50mw out of the exciter..

Will let you all know when i get it going ..

Fred

Yes i can recive attachments,using microsoft exploder 3.02 i believe.
Doug

----------

Bill, K5PY wrote:

Bill did not write anything.

Hello Bill, and other recent subscribers.

Welcome to the list. A detailed explanation of the purpose and use
of this list is available at


Hope to hear from you soon.

Kevin

<html>
<body>
I am looking for anyone who has experience with the SR4D
repeater controller.
I am using one and I have been experiencing audio problems during the voice mail mode, and it also mutes the ID at times.

I am currently using it on a 6 meter machine mitrex running split site.

Has anyone ever used this type of controller?
n2kej@...
<br>
<BR>
<HR noshade width=90%>
<pre>More than just email--Get your FREE Netscape WebMail account today at <a href=" target="top"></a></pre>
</body>
</html>

Hello All,

I recently received several requests from people on the list
wanting to obtain the large heat shrink I use to seal the Comet
and Diamond fiberglass antenna joints with. This stuff is great
for sealing connectors, antenna joints, covering shovel and sledge
hammer handles and covering tool handles like large Crescent
wrenches.

This shrink has an inert sealant that melts as the heat is applied
for shrinking. This creates a good (won't leak if it was drug
across the Atlantic) seal. Well maybe not that good......but damn
good.

It is available from Jerry Conn Associates Inc.
They are located in Chambersburg Penna.

The manufacturer is CANUSA. Pronounced canoosa.

The available sizes (unshrunk of course) are indicated by the
model number.
Example: Part number;
CFTV-400 is .4" (that's point 4 inches)
CFTV-1100 is 1.1" diameter
CFTV-1300 is 1.3" diameter
CFTV-2050 is 2.05" diameter and so on

These come in a 4 foot length.

I believe the shrink percentage is 50% of original, This is not
fact however.
I don't remember the spec. on shrinkage off hand but it does
shrink a lot.

These are the available sizes:
The ones with pricing are normally in stock.

CFTV-400
CFTV-750
CFTV-1100
CFTV-1300 $5.16
CFTV-1700 $5.95
CFTV-2050 $11.41
CFTV-2750

These people have a $50.00 minimum order, so get together with a
friend or two and place an order.
They will sell directly to the public.
The models listed without pricing are available through JCA, but
are usually not stocked.

If interested in purchasing, contact Tracy at Jerry Conn
Associates.
1-(800) 233-7600 in PA
1-(800) 233-7370 out of PA
1-(717) 264-1547 Direct Line from anywhere.

You can mention you talked with me, Kevin Custer form Masters
Communications in Somerset PA, although it will not get you any
better deal.

The CFTV-750 is great for RG-8/PL-259's or Type N connectors.

In our business, we use a propane torch to shrink the tubing. It's
wall thickness is very good, and not easily damaged by a little
excess heat. You can actually catch it on fire and not damage it
badly. It doesn't shrink well in windy conditions, (requires lots
of propane) In severe wind I use MAPP gas as it gets burns hotter
than propane, although this is usually not necessary. I have used
this stuff for years and can attest to its quality if installed
properly. There are other cheaper brands of this stuff than CANUSA
, but (in two words) they suck. There is no equivalent. I tried
them all.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Ralph Hogan wrote:

From: Ralph Hogan <rhogan@...>

We had a Diamond antenna (X-500HNA?)
machine for about two years. The antenna
eventually failed due to water ingress. I now heat shrink the joints before
installing this style antenna. I have availability to large shrink with an
inert sealant that is used to seal connectors on CATV hardline.
Kevin,
I had similar results with an x500hna due to water ingress. Do you
have a source suggestion for the heat shrink tubing you mentioned?
I'd like to do that next antenna I put up.
Tnx,
Ralph WB4TUR

I'll look up a retail vendor at work tomorrow (if I don't forget) If I don't
reply in the next couple of days, please email again.
I can send some to you.....although I would prefer you purchase it somewhere.


Have to go for the night.... It's been real.
The list was started Sunday at noon, there are already 20+ subscribers.

Kevin

"D.J.H." wrote:

From: "D.J.H." <ve6zh@...>

Just fine!!
Doug

-

Can you receive html and attachments through your email server. Does the
browser you are using allow this?

Kevin

JHowel@... wrote:

<snipped for brevity>

Kevin,

Thanks for all the info. The Mastr Pro's are mobiles. I really don't see me
using those for the repeater. As I said, I think my best bet as things stand
right now is to use the Mocom's.

As for a controller, I'm looking at the NHRC mainly due to price, at least to
start. Not sure If I'll tackle the kit form or the assembled/tested (most
likely the latter) but I'm almost certain I'll go with one of these.

I'll build the NHRC4 for you.

Thanks for the antenna suggestions. I'm going to try to go with seperate
antennas to avoid the $$$ of duplexers, but this will depend a lot on the
antenna structure. For example, if I have to go with a water tower, I'll need
to use a single antenna. But if I have vertical tower space, I'll be able to
go with two antennas. One question though: what are your thoughts on the
number of cavities in the duplexer? For example, a 6-cavity vs. a 3-cavity?
I know the 6 will cost more and provide more isolation, but at what point
would I need to decide which one?

Again, thanks!

73,
Jeff, W9SAR

-

The number of cavities needed really depends on several things. First and foremost
is the size of the can itself. My Wacom plexers are made from 8" diameter tubes.
The larger the diameter the higher the Q and therefore (@ narrow spacings I.E. 600
kc.) the easier to retain the notch depth. It is harder to get deep notches @ 600
kc with small diameter cans. When you bring the notch closer to the pass frequency
(in any duplexer) the notch will start to affect the pass insertion loss, and the
notches depth. The larger the can the lesser the affect on pass and notch at
narrow splits. Many feel the fact that uhf duplexers are smaller is due to
frequency. This is true to a point. The bigger reason (in scale) is due to the 5
meg split used. A smaller diameter (Q) duplexer can be used at this wide tx to rx
spacing and still provide big notch depths.

It may take 6, 5" cans to equal the isolation of 4, 8" cans.

Also one has to take into account the radio situation that the duplexer has to
satisfy. If your receiver is deaf with .5 uV of sensitivity, the duplexer doesn't
have to work very hard to make duplex work. On the contrary if the receiver is say
.15 uV sensitivity, the duplexer has to be able to isolate the extra receive
ability of this receiver (approx. 10 dB).

And then there is the transmitter. Noisy Transistor transmitters take more
isolating ability to duplex. Yes, in most cases the tube type transmitters are
made duplex more easily. For more about this thread go to


Hope this helps,

Kevin

hmm 3 cavities may should work ok 2 on tx one on Rx
might be able to get about 60 db isolation 6 cavities 3 rx 3 tx u could obtain
100db isolation which will greatly improve the repeater operations

JHowel@... wrote:

From: JHowel@...

<snipped for brevity>

Kevin,

Thanks for all the info. The Mastr Pro's are mobiles. I really don't see me
using those for the repeater. As I said, I think my best bet as things stand
right now is to use the Mocom's.

As for a controller, I'm looking at the NHRC mainly due to price, at least to
start. Not sure If I'll tackle the kit form or the assembled/tested (most
likely the latter) but I'm almost certain I'll go with one of these.

Thanks for the antenna suggestions. I'm going to try to go with seperate
antennas to avoid the $$$ of duplexers, but this will depend a lot on the
antenna structure. For example, if I have to go with a water tower, I'll need
to use a single antenna. But if I have vertical tower space, I'll be able to
go with two antennas. One question though: what are your thoughts on the
number of cavities in the duplexer? For example, a 6-cavity vs. a 3-cavity?
I know the 6 will cost more and provide more isolation, but at what point
would I need to decide which one?

Again, thanks!

73,
Jeff, W9SAR

------------------------------------------------------------------------
To unsubscribe from this mailing list, or to change your subscription
to digest, go to the ONElist web site, at and
select the User Center link from the menu bar on the left.
------------------------------------------------------------------------

This list is sponsored by the owners and users of "RBTIP"

--
Brent DeSalvo (KF4TNP)
146.625- 442.100+
Lewisburg, Tennessee

Do not forget to Confirm your visit! Thanx.

We had a Diamond antenna (X-500HNA?)
machine for about two years. The antenna
eventually failed due to water ingress. I now heat shrink the joints before
installing this style antenna. I have availability to large shrink with an
inert sealant that is used to seal connectors on CATV hardline.
Kevin,
I had similar results with an x500hna due to water ingress. Do you
have a source suggestion for the heat shrink tubing you mentioned?
I'd like to do that next antenna I put up.
Tnx,
Ralph WB4TUR