Rear shocks
2
Hi Derek (and others!), It's been a while since I've posted here on the group, but I still ride my Radian, and do my best to keep her running well. I'm here, today, to inquire about rear shocks. I know Derek has been recommending the YSS shocks, for quite a while, as the best bang for the buck, and I am wonder if that is still the best recommendation for an upgrade for the Radian. I always enjoy chattig with Derek, and have not touched base for a few years, so I figured I'd start out this current exploration of possibilities here on the forum, instead of emailing him directly, because I hope it adds just a little bit more to the Radian knowledge base. I like the looks of remote reservoir shocks, but have read that they could be better suited for the track, rather than on the street. Of course, this may be old info, as I have been looking into this every so often, for years. They look trick, and one would think that these fancy things would be the best choice, but they were not, in years past, for street riding, as I understand it. I don't use my Rad as a track bike, but I do like it rip it up on the twisty roads in my neck of the woods, and I am looking for more than the shocks that I have seen advertised for the Radian, or other vintage bikes. I've seen ads talking about a comfortable, relaxed cruiser-ish ride, and that isn't the way I use my bike--it's not a cruiser.... I am hoping that a new set of rear shocks will complement the Racetech springs that I have up front...I know that upgrading the rear will not have the same impact on handling as the springs did, but I am still hoping for noticeable improvement...something better than a just a more comfortable, relaxed ride. For reference, I'm currently riding on a set of no-name shocks, that I bought off of A--zon about 15 years ago. Do they suck? Probably, but they seem to function okay...I'll be bummed and surprised if I upgrade, and don't notice much difference in ride quality. I'm interested in hearing about anyone's experience upgrading their rear shocks, and especially interested in hear in Derek's current recommendation. Stay safe and enjoy the ride, folks! Rich
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Kerker Exhaust
I have a Kerker 4 into 1 exhaust that came off my 86 Radian. Message if you’re interested. thanks. $150 plus shipping
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Radian ownership?
7
Hiya, new to biking, been on a big bike about 8 years ....currently on 2010 Triumph Tiger 1050...and like to tinker, doing my own maintenance... I have had my head turned, here in the UK by, what I found out, is quite a rare beast here ... Yamaha Radian. Looks like a baby Vmax....which is what I lusted after as a teenager in the 90s and got me wanting a bike (but wasn't allowed)... Saw the Radian a few years back but didn't know what it was....but now I do! So, here I am... considering selling the Tiger for what I can only describe as a beautiful Radian... Am I mad? What is UK Radian ownership like? Parts supply ok....or dire? YouTube, help and advice readily available, or I'll struggle (still learning!)? Any help, advice, "what to look for when buying" all very much welcomed! TIA!
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WTB: NOS Emulsion Tube, Nozzle Main 1UJ-14141-36-00
I’m looking for a single NOS Emulsion Tube for the YX600 Radian. The Yamaha Part # is 1UJ-14141-36-00 Please contact me through the message board if you have one for sale. Thanks!
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Rejecting the Carbs
2
Hello everyone, Been tinkering with my 1990 Radian, the person who owned it before put those damn pod filters on and I’m trying to figure out how the correct jet sizes since I can’t get it to idle even if I adjust the mixture screw. Anyone have recommendations? Original exhaust.
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Throttle adjuster broken
12
I have a broken throttle adjuster. Do I need a whole new throttle cable or is the adjuster a separate part that I can buy?
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mechanic in dayton Oho
My daughter's 1989 radian has not been professionally serviced in years - we can do simple things (oil changes, chain adjustments, replacing brake pads) but it really should be seen by a professional for a valve adjustment and general look over - tires are older for instance, should probably be replaced. Cables and fuel lines are probably due for replacement, clutch is getting a bit stiff - maybe cables and adjustment would fix? or maybe it is time for cleaning or replacing clutch plates? Rebalance the carbs? I'd like to have a general service done, with repairs as needed so it stays safe and reliable. But we have not been able to locate a mechanic willing to work on her bike - the local shops say it is too old. Can anyone recommend a competent Yamaha mechanic in the Dayton Ohio area? It runs remarkably well, this bike is a trooper. Somehow the fork seals are not leaking the brake fluid isn't leaking - you'd think after 34 years it would be in worse condition - she doesn't put a ton of miles on it, It has been garage kept.
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Upgraded Front Brake System
3
Some years ago, I was rebuilding my brake calipers, and determined that they had corrosion in the seal groves. I decided to rebuild them, anyway, with poor results. I couldn’t properly bleed them, as the corrosion caused the seals to leak air into the system. I then swapped those calipers for a set off of my parts bike. This set also had corrosion in the seal grooves. Next I bought a set from Ebay. The Ebay set also had corrosion in the grooves, as did the next 2 sets that I bought. So, I went through 5 sets of calipers that were all corroded. I discussed this with various people, including Derek, and came to the conclusion that most, if not all, of the Radian calipers out there have this corrosion. The issue is that the Radian calipers are raw aluminum, only painted on the outside. If they had been anodized, they would not have corroded. So, what to do? Derek informed me that he had identified a set of Nissin calipers that covered the same swept area as the Radian calipers, and that they were also anodized, so they should never corrode. The Nissin calipers also have 4 pistons, as opposed to the Radian’s 2 pistons. A thoroughly modern solution to my Radian brakes woes. The downside of this conversion is mainly the expense. It is not an inexpensive solution, and probably will not be embraced by the majority of Radian owners. I spent nearly as much money on the front brake system as I did when I bought the bike circa 2005. When I first installed the calipers, I also installed braided stainless steel brake lines, running 2 lines, as opposed to the stock system that runs one line that then splits in two (the junction is under the headlight). I decided, upon consultation with Derek, to keep the stock master cylinder, in order to save a few dollars. Derek assured me that the Nissin calipers would work with the stock MC, although performance would not be optimum. He was correct, and, while my front brakes functioned ok, it really was not a huge improvement over stock. It was nice to know that the calipers would not corrode and leak, and were therefore safer, but I would have liked a bit better feel at the lever. I should note, that when I originally purchased the brake lines and calipers, Derek and I discussed the fact that, ultimately, I wanted to upgrade the MC. As a result, he suggested that I install brake lines that were longer than the stock setup required, as the upgraded MC would need the extra length. I’m happy to say that I did this, and had no issues with the extra length: The lines were not too floppy, or anything like that. I finally bit the bullet, and bought a proper Nissin master cylinder to mate with my new calipers a few weeks ago, and spent an afternoon mounting and bleeding the system. I am thrilled with the results! The new MC transformed the brake feel, making my bike better than ever! It’s an absolute joy to ride and use the brakes, it really feels like a new bike. Prior to this, the most impactful upgrade that I made was installing straight rate springs that were appropriate for my weight. Here are some photos of my set-up. I want to say that this is not a straight bolt on solution. I had to do a bit of fabrication/modification to make the system fit, and I am very happy with the results. Fabrication-wise, I had to create a “stand off” to mount one of the clips that secure the brake lines to keep them from flopping around. If I had mounted the clip to the existing place on the forks, it would have forced the brake line into a sharp bend right above the left caliper. The “stand off” moves the clip’s mounting point about 1-1.5 inches to allow the brake line a straighter path. I also needed to cut a bit of sheet metal from the headlight mounting bracket, to allow the 2 brake lines to pass through the space where originally there was only one. That’s about it for the modifications I needed to make. The “clips” that I am referring to, that secure the brake lines, were machined by Derek of Moto-Lab. I bought 4, but only used 3. Each clip is machined in 2 pieces, with numbers (1,2,3,4) on each of the pieces, as they are all matching, and not interchangable. So, you just make sure to pair 1 and 1, 2 and 2, etc. The clips are not cheap, about $10 each, if my memory serves me correctly. They are beautifully machined by Derek, and he has to charge appropriately for his time and machining equipment, so I don’t begrudge the price. I was just a little surprised at the cost for these little clips. They function great, though. They grip the brake line snugly, and after several years of use, I don’t see any pinching, or abraded areas on the brake lines. I don’t know of any other solution that would allow me to secure the brake lines as efficiently and easily. I guess I could have tried to make a set, myself, but I really don’t have the skills, time, or equipment to do a good job of it, so I consider it $40 well spent. I mentioned that I only used 3 of the 4 clips. I am using one clip just above the left caliper, mounted on the aforementioned “stand off.” I left the right brake line unsecured coming off of the caliper. The right brake line has a shorter, straighter run up to the mounts under the headlight, and did not seem to need to be secured. After a few thousand miles of use, I see no ill effects. The other 2 clips were used to secure the lines to the headlight mounting bracket, in the same spot that the splitter for the 1 into 2 brake lines used to live. I don’t recall if I fabbed up a custom mounting plate, or mounted directly to the existing points…it’s been a few years. I do recall that it took a bit of finagling to get them to sit properly, without stressing the brake lines. Once mounted, however, they have worked just fine for thousands of miles. As I mentioned, I did the brake lines and calipers several years ago, and I mounted the MC just the other day. When I purchased the MC from Derek, he suggested that I might want to upgrade the fasteners to stainless steel, instead of the fasteners that came with the MC. I took him up on the idea, and I am pleased with the stainless. He also offered titanium connectors, but I decided to stick with the stainless as all of the other fasteners that I have upgraded on my Radian are also stainless. Mounting and bleeding the MC was very straightforward. The MC has a bleeder built into it, right up at the top, where any air might collect, which made the bleeding easy. You may notice in my photos that I also have a bleeder valve on my top banjo bolt, which is a holdover from my stock MC setup. One thing to note is that with the Nissin MC, you will lose the mount for your rear view mirror, so you might need to come up with a solution for that. I use bar end mirrors, so this was not a concern for me. That is about all I can think of to tell you about my upgraded front brake system. I am super happy with it, and I know that I will never see a return on the expense if I ever sell my Radian. This does not bother me, as I don’t expect to ever sell my Radian, and riding it with the upgraded brakes makes such an enormous difference that, to me, the expense has been totally worth it. Please feel free to hit me up with any questions that you have about the system. Also, please excuse my grimy, rusty motorcycle--she is no trailer queen. Thank you very much, Derek! By gum, you’ve done it again! Regards, Rich
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Carb Issue
8
Hello everyone, Thanks for having me. Recently bought a Radian from a friend of mine. One carburetor is getting less suction than the other four. Put my hand against the carbs while the bike was running. 3 out of the 4 were good. Carbs are recently cleaned out. Pretty sure carbs are clean everywhere visible. We tried a compression test, checked the float needle and diaphragm, and O-rings are good to go. Pilot jet held up to the light and no obstruction. We did check for valve adjustment and there’s some give so planning on replacing the shims. One idea is to get it blasted in an oven at the mechanic in case there’s any unreachable gunk I’m not seeing. Thanks for your help. Connor
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Indicator Relay Location?
6
Indicators stopped working…..does anyone know where the indicator relay is on the Radian? it’s not on the wiring diagram and struggling. any help appreciated.
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Which AGM Battery Are You Using?
Just got two non-running yx600’s. One is a 1986 and the other is a 1987. I need to get a few batteries and I’d like to get AGM. Which AGM Battery Are You Using?
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Selling my 1987 radian
4
Hello all, Life has changed and I have two young kids now and never get a chance to ride anymore. I have a 1987 yamaha yx600 radian that has been garage kept its whole life. It has just over 14,000 miles on it and mostly original. It has some bumps and scrapes, but never was laid down on the road (it had fallen over before due to clutter in the garage). I wanted to reach out to this group before going public with selling it. Let me know of you're interested. I'm based out of Richmond, VA area. If I sell it, I'm trying to use the money towards my expanding family and some needed house projects. -Jason
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Exhaust bolt
4
I’m trying to reinstall an original exhaust on my 86 Radian. The previous owner put a 4 into 1 system on, but I like the look of the dual pipe original. I cannot seem to find the correct size bolt to fit into where the big exhaust chamber attaches under the bike. Does anyone know the exact size, length and pitch of that? The online parts list only shows it as a flange bolt, but does not show specs.
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Radian project
11
Hi all, New to the group, and wanted to give a hi and tell you about myself. I use to ride with my wife and she sold her bike when getting pregnant. Years later I sold mine as well as I was in a town house and just saw my bike rusting away. Fast forward to now, we were picking up a free piece of furniture and ended up getting a 1985 YX600 for 50.00. That said, when the lady's husband died 5 years ago the bike has sat in the back yard for 5 years. I just trailered the bike home and into my garage. My goal is to first get it running and then fixed up. Experience you ask... outside of mods on my previous bike and rebuilding a snow blowers carburetor I have jumped in head first and want to work on this with my 5 year old son who loved pictures of my on my old bike.
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FW: WANTED: Yamaha Radian motorcycle
4
Hello, I sold my Yamaha RD400 because I want to upgrade to a bike with electric start. If anyone knows where I can find one please contact me. I prefer one in excellent to mint condition with low miles. I will pay top retail for one in mint/museum condition and arrange shipping if too far for me to transport. Please help! Thanks, Don Hursey Email address: DDKKLH@...
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1990 radian will not run right
Hey all, I recently got handed down a 1990 Yamaha radian that's been in indoor storage for all of its life, and has only 1200 miles on it. I assumed it would be a easy tune up and ride bike however it turns out my grandfather had the tank full of gas for years and it did a number on the carbs. So I went and removed the carbs, i ordered a rebuild kit on eBay, and cleaned every single jet very very thoroughly. I reassembled the carbs using the ebay jets from the kit and put them on the bike. I went and replaced the inline fuel filter and made sure the fuel shutoff valve wasn't clogged up. Did a quick oil/filter change and went to start the bike. It started right up and seemed to be idling pretty good. After about a min of idling(with a fan blowing on it) i gave it a rev to about 5k rpm and on its way down it hung at about 3k rpm for 2-3 seconds, then it began getting worse and worse. I removed the carbs from the bike to go through them again. Reinstalled and tried again. This time around it seemed much better. It still hung up but only for a split second. I tried adjusting the fuel screw but didn't want to go crazy with it until i pin pointed what was causing this issue. I also put vacuum gauges on the carbs and found the sync on them was pretty close to perfect. After a quick ride i noticed it was still hanging up once i hit a higher rpm. I went home and called it a day. Next day i come up and the bike wouldn't start. I tried for an hour nothing but gurgling and some back fires. Once again called it a day. Came back next day and it started up with a little throttle input and idled. After a bit of idle time it went right back to that 5-10 second rev hang worse then the first time i heard it do it. The only thing i can do to drop it out of this rev hang is too give it a little choke, that drops it out of the rev hang but the bike wants to die with any choke on once its warm. Sorry if this was a bit confusing but unfortunately the hole issue is confusing to me.....any help would be appreciated!! also i have a set of ngk spark plugs on their way just incase they are causing any weird problems. Thanks again!
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1990 radian will not run right
Hey all, I recently got handed down a 1990 yamaha radian thats been in indoor storage for all of its life, and has only 1200 miles on it. I assumed it would be a easy tune up and ride bike however it turns out my grandfather had the tank full of gas for years and it did a number on the carbs. So i went and removed the carbs, i ordered a rebuild kit on ebay, and cleaned every single jet very very thoroughly. I reassembled the carbs and put them on the bike. I went and replaced the inline fuel filter and made sure the fuel shutoff valve wasnt clogged up. Did a quick oil/filter change and went to start the bike. It started right up and seemed to be idling pretty good. After about a min of idling(with a fan blowing on it) i gave it a rev to about 5k rpm and on its way down it hung at about 3k rpm for 2-3 seconds, then it began getting worse and worse. I removed the carbs from the bike to go through them again. Reinstalled and tried again.
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Carb Holders, Parts motor
Haven't used these https://www.georgefixs.com/yamaha-yx600-radian-carb-holders/ but have ordered other parts from george fix, been happy with his product. I have a set of 4) original carb holders I'll sell, and a complete parts motor (no carbs), unknown history. what do you need off it? ziesler1223@... Baraboo WI 53913
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86 Radian Tank Replacements
2
I recently bought an 86 Radian that needed some minor repairs and had a rusty tank. I was unaware the tank was riddled with pinholes, I tried to repair them but it seems beyond my skill level to do properly. I have looked for replacements and all the radian tanks are at at a price that rivals having it repaired professionally. I was wondering if anyone has had any luck using tanks from other bikes and if so what bikes?
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Exhaust pipe(s) & mufflers for Radian YX600T 1986 (according to registration) or 1987 (according to BADRAD600 website)
4
Dear all, My bike is being overhauled and is in need of better (new) exhaust pipes and mufflers. In the Netherlands extremely hard to find. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks in advance, Best, Christi
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