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Now that John has raised the issue and Roy has kindly added a PDF file of 14mm track and wheel standards, how many of us are working to these, and if not what variations are in use? I ask because we are a relatively small band, and widely spread, but some of us might meet someday and it would be handy to be able to run on other members layouts should the possibility ever arise. Please may I make it clear that I am not for one moment suggesting that these standards should be mandatory on any of us. If you are modelling narrow gauge, let alone on 14mm, you have already shown you can think away from the crowd, so your track standards are your own business. Mark, as it is your site may I suggest that perhaps over Christmas we could run a bit of a survey, I will suggest some questions, but say up to Christmas Eve we add or change the questions, and then 'fill in the answers' over Christmas. If nothing else if anyone has a problem they might know who to ask, this being one of the benefits of being in any group. (1) Are you actually working to 14mm gauge? (2) if so are you using the RCL standard, if not what variation are you using (3) What are you modelling (4) Are you on DC or DCC or thinking of the latter (5) Be as vague as you choose, but roughly where are you Are we up for this? Frank

Doug: As a fellow "left-coaster" (Seattle) I hear your pain, but I've had no problems getting Roy's products from Parragon. They are very accomodating and using a credit card eases the currency exchange. The purchase arrived perfectly packaged--no damage whatsoever. Dave Eggleston __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - now with 250MB free storage. Learn more. http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250

For those of you who may have missed my post on the 7mmnga group, I have produced some masters for replacement cylinder covers for the Backwoods K1 Garratt. These are of the correct size and have the correct number of bolts unlike (unfortunatley) the ones in the kit. Recently Paul Martin of EDM Models has kindly offered to produce these for me and is set up to handle international orders etc. He can be contacted at: Paul Martin EDM models paul@... www.ngtrains.com Regards John Clutterbuck 2632

Just wish everyone a Happy and Peaceful New Year Frank

Happy New Year to all, Has anyone bought a Backwoods NGG16 Garratt kit yet? I'm interested to know more about it, particularly the chassis design, is it the same as the K1 kit? Thanks, Dave.T

Just testing at 1.25pm, please ignore Dave.

G'day everyone, May I access the groups collective wisdom and experience? I am designing a gearbox for a scratchbuilt loco, and wonder-what is the best material combination for the gears? The Krauss I have appears to be mild steel on brass (Romford), my old N scale is all plastic/nylon (bachmann), I've seen metal worms on plastic wheels...I am looking for a quiet mech with reasonable wear characteristics. Its only a small 0-4-0. Thanks in advance, Mark K Sydney Oz www.geocities.com/mark_the_train_brain/layout/burra.jpg

Mark, I assume when you say gear chain you mean a worm and gear and then a set or series of gears to either increase the reduction ratio or move the drive somewhere else. I've always understood that the worm should be harder than the gear, hence steel/brass and brass/nylon. Nylon/nylon seems to work, but if you get anything abrasive in the mesh the worm soon wears away. Think about this if your thinking of sand ballast for example. Once you've got to the gear to gear section, unless you can find helically cut gears, if indeed they are made so small, and unless you can run in an oil or grease bath, metal to metal gears tend to be noisy. My only objection to some of the small nylon gears used in reduction boxes is that rather than rotate with the shaft they are intended to rotate on the shaft. If they are thin they tend to wobble. I've sleeved nylon gears with brass tubing to make the bit which rotates on the shaft slightly longer and a closer fit to stop the wobble. Usually I use brass gears if available in the size I want and put up with the noise. If possible I sleeve the final drive gear on the driven axle. The brass sleeve is stopped from spinning by a piece of thin wire through a hole drilled through the brass/axle/brass so it goes right through. You can then leave the wire out whilst you set up the quartering and any valve gear. I'll put a picture in photos of the drive for my De Winton. The motor goes up in the boiler and this whole unit is sprung. This leaves the real driven axle clear for the working valve gear. Frank

G'day all, Would anyone like to see a model of 'Burra' www.geocities.com/mark_the_train_brain/layout/burra.jpg produced for O-14 in an etched brass kit or RTR? I have been drawing etch patterns for myself, but have decided to do a very small run (max 10) of Burra's as either kit or RTR in either 14 or 16.5mm gauges. 5 of the 10 have been reserved-it doesn't cost to reserve and you can pull out any time you wish. Email me (trainbrain@...) if you want your name on the list-first come first reserved. 'Burra' is a 2' gauge 1923 R&W Hawthorn Leslie 0-4-0ST weighing in around 7? tons. It spent its entire working life with Corrimal Colliery, South of Sydney, Australia. Now preserved and operated by the Illawarra Light Railway Museum (www.gghome.com/ILRMS), Burra is a fairly typical industrial steam locomotive, exported to colonial countries and most probably used in British industry too. The model will feature etched and cast brass construction, with a full suite of lostwax brass backhead details. I have used over 150 detail photographs to get the model as accurate as possible. I plan on having a full suite of backhead detail, correct pattern wheels, two stage reduction gearbox with a quality can motor, simple compensation, all wheel pickup and mountings for Kadee couplers to the customer's height specification. I don't know what the final price will be, and i'm not sure of the release date, but I don't want any money till the patterns are correct and the pilot model has been tested. I wasn't going to say anything till I had things closer together, but i mentioned it on the ausnarrowgauge group so I thought i'd best let you folks know too. I hope to have the chassis test etch ready by February. Regards, Mark Kendrick Sydney Oz

Tony, I always think of the 7mmnga group as catering mainly for 0-16.5, but I seem to remember you being a member of that. If you go to the line at the bottom of this page http;photos etc, control click on it you will go to the photo page. Click on Yahoo Groups Logo in Red top LHS. Search for Barnstaple and it will turn up exmoor-ng. After that you are on your own! Frank

Yes, two, 7mmnga and On30 both appropriate

Can anybody tell me if there is a 0-16.5 group as I haven't been able to find one? Or in particular Lynton & Barnstaple. Cheers Tony Spencer -----Original Message----- From: Mark Kendrick [mailto:trainbrain@...] Sent: 17 January 2005 03:43 To: O-14@... Subject: RE: [O-14] Gear trains in loco's Frank, Thanks for relating your experience and the photos. I think I will go for a gunmetal or steel worm with a delrin or celcon gear with a widened bearing area to prevent the wobble. Regards, Mark -----Original Message----- From: Frank Sharp [mailto:Frank.J.Sharp@...] Sent: Thursday, 13 January 2005 11:39 PM To: O-14@... Subject: RE: [O-14] Gear trains in loco's Mark, I assume when you say gear chain you mean a worm and gear and then a set or series of gears to either increase the reduction ratio or move the drive somewhere else. I've always understood that the worm should be harder than the gear, hence steel/brass and brass/nylon. Nylon/nylon seems to work, but if you get anything abrasive in the mesh the worm soon wears away. Think about this if your thinking of sand ballast for example. Once you've got to the gear to gear section, unless you can find helically cut gears, if indeed they are made so small, and unless you can run in an oil or grease bath, metal to metal gears tend to be noisy. My only objection to some of the small nylon gears used in reduction boxes is that rather than rotate with the shaft they are intended to rotate on the shaft. If they are thin they tend to wobble. I've sleeved nylon gears with brass tubing to make the bit which rotates on the shaft slightly longer and a closer fit to stop the wobble. Usually I use brass gears if available in the size I want and put up with the noise. If possible I sleeve the final drive gear on the driven axle. The brass sleeve is stopped from spinning by a piece of thin wire through a hole drilled through the brass/axle/brass so it goes right through. You can then leave the wire out whilst you set up the quartering and any valve gear. I'll put a picture in photos of the drive for my De Winton. The motor goes up in the boiler and this whole unit is sprung. This leaves the real driven axle clear for the working valve gear. Frank O-14 Photos area: http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/O-14/lst O-14 Files area: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/O-14/files Yahoo! Groups Links O-14 Photos area: http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/O-14/lst O-14 Files area: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/O-14/files Yahoo! Groups Links

Ian, Track Gauges for 14mm are available from Roy Link, an etched brass version which is also a back to back gauge etc. http://www.paragonnarrowgauge.co.uk/ now seem to handle these for Roy. Wrightlines do a cast white metal version. As it comes it is only suitable for straight track, but if you cut the ends off one side to leave about 2mm in the centre, and cut the other side to leave 2mm at each send it will do curved track with a degree of gauge widening on curved track. The other alternative is to buy the EM gauge from C & L Finescale, this is a round rolling version, but made up from individual parts, so you can dismantle it and shorten the centre section. All take credits cards. Frank

G'day all, I just added a page about my production of Burra, it has some poor photos of the test chassis and a bit of history. http://www.geocities.com/mark_the_train_brain/burra.htm Lots of work to do! Regards, Mark K Sydney Oz

Hi Forgive the cross post for those who are also members of the 7mmnga group. I am trying to find out the rail dimensions for the various rail sections in common use between codes 55-100. Specifically I would like to know about the rail used in the Peco O-16.5 track and the Peco rail IL-115. Dimensions of the other Peco rail sizes and other makes would also be much appreciated. The dimensions I would like to know are total rail height, foot width AND head width, in either thou or mm to a couple of decimal places. I seem to recall Peco is lists this in their catalogue but I never buy enough stuff to justify getting a catalogue. (Why don't they publish on the web like the rest of the world!) Thanks in advance John Clutterbuck

The Peco IL-115 rail (code 82) is as follows: Foot - 1.77mm Head - 0.89mm Height - 2.08mm I chose this rail for use with the RCL 14mm gauge components as, unlike other sizes, it is an exceptionally neat representation of the 'average' prototype flatbottom profile and very close in appearance to the profiles in BSS No. 536-1934 'Light Flat bottom rails, fishplates and Portable track - 24in. gauge'. While strictly oversize, (for 20lb rail) its neat profile makes it appear lighter that it actually is, the resulting track having the same 'light' appearance as the prototype. Roy C Link

Hi list: FYI, a member of the South African Railways modelling list has expressed interest in developing and producing a short run - about 100 kits - in resin for the NGB class wagons in 7mm scale (O-14). Several examples of these wagons are in use on the Welsh Highland Railway, so regardless of whether you plan to use your Backwoods Miniatures NGG16 kit on the Port Elizabeth-Avontuur line or the Port Shepstone-Harding line - or to haul tourists and bicycles from Caernarfon to Porthmadog - these would be appropriate. To make this happen, though, we need a really good set of drawings to support photo evidence. If anybody has such a thing, can you get in touch off list? We have drawings from "24 Inches Apart", but would like a better starting point. Thanks in advance! - Trevor in Toronto PS: The SAR Modelling group is here: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SAR-Modelling/

Following Trevor's request for information I emailed colleagues on the WHR. We have no drawings at present, though we do have a lot of 'B' wagons. However, one of our number is currently in Jo'burg trawling through the Transnet (SAR Railways) archives looking for drawings, hopefully GAs of all the SAR stock acquired by the WHR. I have emailed that person and expressed my interest in a set of appropriate drawings, if they exist. I shall report results here in due course. Adrian FR & WHR Archivist 7mmNGA Trade Liaison

Hi I am doing some research into suitable rail for representing NG track in the smaller weights which equate to code # ranges 40-100. I have good details on Peco rail, but I am also aware that there are other rail suppiers such as Micro Engineering and Shinohara (not sure if Ive spelt that right). However I have not had much getting detailed info on these. I wonder if anyone either has a catalogue for these products (or any other rail suppliers) which details this or actual rail they can measure. I am after the following to at least 1 decimal places in mm or 2 in inches: A Rail head width B Rail height C Foot width D Web thickness Note just B on its own I have as its the code #. Its A+B+C I need and D if at all possible. Regards John Clutterbuck