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Prompted by the discussion on Lionheart engines, this has arrived today. I will not be starting it for a couple of weeks snd will outline the build over on NGRM. Then a full write up in The Review. Initial inspection looks promising. Some very fine resin castings and clean whitemetal and brass. The etched bar frames will be fun. I’ve gone with the Slaters SG4 and Faulhaber motor ?
Paul?
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Just to be on the safe side, is the Slaters “Lyn” OK for 14mm gauge? The choice of gauge needs to be specified for their L&B coaches, but there’s no mention of gauge for “Lyn” on the website.
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On 7 Oct 2021, at 18:17, Paul Holmes <heatonwood@...> wrote:
? Prompted by the discussion on Lionheart engines, this has arrived today. I will not be starting it for a couple of weeks snd will outline the build over on NGRM. Then a full write up in The Review. Initial inspection looks promising. Some very fine resin castings and clean whitemetal and brass. The etched bar frames will be fun. I’ve gone with the Slaters SG4 and Faulhaber motor ?
Paul?
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Yes. I spoke to David White at length. The website is decidedly short on detail. But I was able to request 014 axles and switch out the mashima for a 1624 Faulhaber (?20 extra). The gearbox is a tad expensive but is a properly engineered job with bevel gears and no worm.?
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Thanks Paul. I’ll place the order over the phone and request the axles etc accordingly.
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On 7 Oct 2021, at 20:15, Paul Holmes <heatonwood@...> wrote:
?Yes. I spoke to David White at length. The website is decidedly short on detail. But I was able to request 014 axles and switch out the mashima for a 1624 Faulhaber (?20 extra). The gearbox is a tad expensive but is a properly engineered job with bevel gears and no worm.?
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I see there is a number of second hand 1624 Faulhaber motors on Ebay.
Apparently they are used in tattoo machines...
Cheers,
CP
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Just to be on the safe side, is the Slaters ?€?Lyn?€� OK for 14mm gauge?
The choice of gauge needs to be specified for their L&B coaches, but
there?€?s no mention of gauge for ?€?Lyn?€� on the website.
On 7 Oct 2021, at 18:17, Paul Holmes <heatonwood@...> wrote:
???
Prompted by the discussion on Lionheart engines, this has arrived today.
I will not be starting it for a couple of weeks snd will outline the
build over on NGRM. Then a full write up in The Review. Initial
inspection looks promising. Some very fine resin castings and clean
whitemetal and brass. The etched bar frames will be fun. I?€?ve gone
with the Slaters SG4 and Faulhaber motor
Paul
<722ECF99-2B6E-4EAB-BBB6-7BFAF072243D.jpeg>
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It looks like they are only 2V rated though. There are a few odd coreless motor deals on eBay, second hand and stripped out of electronic gadgets.?
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I had a look st the axles, wheels and cranks last night. I start to see why the kits are so expensive. There is some serious engineering here. The wheels are threaded and screw onto the axles. Hence the need to stipulate 14mm gauge. Then the cranks are neither etches to solder up with a twist nor lost wax castings. They are milled mild steel with a complex milled square slot and hole to fit the milled end of the axle and then secure with the customary Slater’s mini Allen key screw.?
This should make chassis construction easier. My main concern now is rust. I think that I will be assembling these bits on a separate surface to avoid any contamination with flux and probably wear cotton gloves.?
Paul?
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Paul, You could try using Incralac which is a clear coating meant for polished brass or copper however it does work on any metal providing you do a good prep first, because the cranks and rods I believe on the L&B rods & cranks were polished steel. It is important as part of the prep after you either polish of generally clean the items to be coated that you then wash them in Shellite or white oil and allow to dry, it is best to then either as part of your drying process to place the items into a drying oven so you warm up the metal parts and while they're warm spray them with the Incralac, if you don't warm them up as is normal with any metal in the shade it develops a moisture in the surface of the metal and this moisture will cause the Incralac to get a fog in it, or basically turn it white, I would suggest to use the matte finish incralac as this would look better on a model.
------ Original Message ------
Sent: 11/10/2021 5:11:13 PM
Subject: Re: [o14] Slaters Lyn
I had a look st the axles, wheels and cranks last night. I start to see why the kits are so expensive. There is some serious engineering here. The wheels are threaded and screw onto the axles. Hence the need to stipulate 14mm gauge. Then the cranks are neither etches to solder up with a twist nor lost wax castings. They are milled mild steel with a complex milled square slot and hole to fit the milled end of the axle and then secure with the customary Slater’s mini Allen key screw.?
This should make chassis construction easier. My main concern now is rust. I think that I will be assembling these bits on a separate surface to avoid any contamination with flux and probably wear cotton gloves.?
Paul?
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Brian This warrants further investigation, thank you. ?Having never heard of Shellite, i was concerned to find it was a British high explosive used in armour piercing shells, then -? from wikipedia - Shellite?may refer to?:
- An Australian form of?
- , British explosive filling for armour-piercing naval shells of the 1920s to 1930s
aha ?Is it the same as Azure naphtha? ?It certainly doesn't exist under the sheltie name in the UK . Or is it just good old Ronson lighter fuel? ? Paul ?
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Paul, Shellite is a clear liquid used more as a clean product it leaves no residue when it evaporates.
------ Original Message ------
Sent: 11/10/2021 6:16:14 PM
Subject: Re: [o14] Slaters Lyn
Brian
This warrants further investigation, thank you. ?Having never heard of Shellite, i was concerned to find it was a British high explosive used in armour piercing shells, then -?
from wikipedia -
Shellite?may refer to?:
- An Australian form of?
- , British explosive filling for armour-piercing naval shells of the 1920s to 1930s
aha ?Is it the same as Azure naphtha? ?It certainly doesn't exist under the sheltie name in the UK . Or is it just good old Ronson lighter fuel? ?
Paul ?
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Hi Brian,
Shellite is the same as White Spirit, it's used as a dry cleaning
fluid, also I think the Ronson cigarette lighter is the same and
I'm 99% sure it's used in camping stoves.
The name Shellite comes from the brand name for White Spirit sold
by SHELL.
Cheers,
Frank Savery,
Owner, Operator, Chief Cook & Bottle Washer,
King Island Tramway, Tasmania
I used to be indecisive, but, now I'm not so sure !
Procrastination is definitely my forte
Growing old is compulsory . . . growing up is optional
On 11/10/2021 7:25 pm, Brian wrote:
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Paul, Shellite is a clear liquid used more as a clean product
it leaves no residue when it evaporates.
------ Original Message ------
Sent: 11/10/2021 6:16:14 PM
Subject: Re: [o14] Slaters Lyn
Brian
This warrants further investigation, thank you. ?Having never
heard of Shellite, i was concerned to find it was a British
high explosive used in armour piercing shells, then -?
from wikipedia -
Shellite?may refer to?:
- An Australian form of?
- , British
explosive filling for armour-piercing naval shells of the
1920s to 1930s
aha ?Is it the same as Azure naphtha? ?It certainly doesn't
exist under the sheltie name in the UK . Or is it just good
old Ronson lighter fuel? ?
Paul ?
?
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Is it really white spirit? ?That’s much the same as turps substitute, used as a paint thinners and brush cleaner. I’ve never heard of it as a degreaser. Lighter fluid is quite different ?
Paul?
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I've used white spirit to degrease and remove oil etc. from parts
of my lathe during repair/restoration. Once dry they were then
greased or oiled as appropriate. Can't quite remember who
suggested to me that it would work but on the few parts I've had
to do (buying unimat parts second hand some need more work than
others) it's worked well.
Camping stoves though would be methylated spirits (the purple
stuff in the UK) not white spirit,
Mark
On 11/10/2021 11:19, Paul Holmes wrote:
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Is it really white spirit? ?That’s much the same as turps
substitute, used as a paint thinners and brush cleaner. I’ve
never heard of it as a degreaser. Lighter fluid is quite
different ?
Paul?
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Yes in some countries I believe they call it white spirit or white oil.
------ Original Message ------
Sent: 11/10/2021 8:19:52 PM
Subject: Re: [o14] Slaters Lyn
Is it really white spirit? ?That’s much the same as turps substitute, used as a paint thinners and brush cleaner. I’ve never heard of it as a degreaser. Lighter fluid is quite different ?
Paul?
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Diggers Shellite is a flammable hydrocarbon solvent used primarily as lighter fuel. (Also known as Recosol R55). It is commonly used as a lighter fuel, for metal cleaning or cleaning surfaces prior to painting and as fuel for Shellite stoves, torches and lanterns.
Regards
Rod Hutchinson
Moorolbark, Australia
Is it really white spirit?? That’s much the same as turps substitute, used as a paint thinners and brush cleaner. I’ve never heard of it as a degreaser. Lighter fluid is quite different ?
Paul?
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Naphtha, Lighter fuel, Colemans stove fuel is Hydrocarbon based? around C6 chains. White spirit based about C11 chains. From a practical point white spirit evaporates slower. ? For this you are using it to remove potentially acid grease from your skin to stop rusting. However stripping steel clean leaves it open to atmospheric pollution and in a damp atmosphere (such as North Wales) you might get rusting. Solution is to use stainless steel, more difficult to machine, weaker than normal steels, and just about impossible to solder. ? Have fun ? Frank
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Like I said earlier Frank, it is best to put it into a drying oven, ie: a old wall oven or stove oven, with a 60 watt light bulb mounted inside, you need to wait about 1 hour for the oven to gain enough heat, then you wash the parts and place them straight into the oven to dry and with little to no moisture in the oven the parts cannot get any moisture on the surface before you spray them.
------ Original Message ------
Sent: 11/10/2021 8:35:00 PM
Subject: Re: [o14] Slaters Lyn
Naphtha, Lighter fuel, Colemans stove fuel is Hydrocarbon based? around C6 chains. White spirit based about C11 chains. From a practical point white spirit evaporates slower. ? For this you are using it to remove potentially acid grease from your skin to stop rusting. However stripping steel clean leaves it open to atmospheric pollution and in a damp atmosphere (such as North Wales) you might get rusting. Solution is to use stainless steel, more difficult to machine, weaker than normal steels, and just about impossible to solder. ? Have fun ? Frank
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The plot thickens. The parts are all in the kit in mild steel, so no chance of using stainless. I’ve found Slaters axles and wheels rusting after the model has been built. I can’t lacquer them for obvious reasons. I tend to physically clean the rust off then oil axles and use electrolube on the wheel treads. Any better answers? ?
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Here is the rather nice 14mm gauge axle? 
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Paul, I know Bunning's sell it here in Oz, but basically you need to get yourself some rust converter which is phosphoric acid wash the steel bits in it and then wash in the white spirit and dry in a oven before coating. Another advantage of buying some phosphoric acid is that you can mix it at a 2:1 ratio 2 parts water and 1 part acid and you have the perfect flux for soldering.
------ Original Message ------
Sent: 11/10/2021 9:06:33 PM
Subject: Re: [o14] Slaters Lyn
Here is the rather nice 14mm gauge axle?
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Paul Holmes
Allan Dare