Keyboard Shortcuts
Likes
Search
Ngg16 .110 pre-painted pics
开云体育Beautiful … neat work?Gary?
Marlborough | SN8 1PA On 30 Jan 2015, at 10:37, kelf28@... [O14] <O14@...> wrote:
? ? DISCLAIMER: "Opinions, conclusions and other information contained in this e-mail that do not relate to the official business of Marlborough College shall not be understood as endorsed or given by the College. Any attachments are confidential and may be the subject of legal privilege. Any use, copying or disclosure other than by the intended recipient is unauthorised. If you have received this message in error, please notify the sender immediately and delete this message and any copies from your computer and network" |
|
Thanks John, I agree , my nerves are shot,even thinking about it. On Sunday, 1 February 2015, 11:02, "mark_noble@... [O14]" wrote:
?
Stunning, I find taking an air brush to a beautifully built brass / nickel silver model quite nerve-wracking, which probably explains why I have many fully built but as yet unpainted models!
|
|
Just go for it. I sprayed the smoke box with a gunmetal aerosol and air brushed the body with floquil grimy black.?? Weathering alah Tim Shackleton, and you have a dirty little Garratt. Regards
|
开云体育Rod, ? There is no such thing as a 'little' Garratt! ? If possible lightly grit blast before painting. Even with etch prier the key is much better. ? Frank ? From: O14@... [mailto:O14@...]
Sent: 01 February 2015 11:40 To: O14@... Subject: Re: [O14] Ngg16 .110 pre-painted pics ? ? Just go for it. I sprayed the smoke box with a gunmetal aerosol and air brushed the body with floquil grimy black.?? Weathering alah Tim Shackleton, and you have a dirty little Garratt. Regards On Feb 1, 2015 10:12 PM, "kevin MacIntosh kelf28@... [O14]" <O14@...> wrote: ? Thanks John, I agree , my nerves are shot,even thinking about it. ? ? On Sunday, 1 February 2015, 11:02, "mark_noble@... [O14]" <O14@...> wrote: ? ? Stunning, I find taking an air brush to a beautifully built brass / nickel silver model quite nerve-wracking, which probably explains why I have many fully built but as yet unpainted models! ? |
|
Roy Link
开云体育Frank is correct, after all assembly is completed, blasting over with pumice powder or fine aluminium oxide using one of the small abrasive guns such as those made by Badger or Passche gives a fine tooth for the primer to get the best of all possible grips on brass (or any other metal).If you precede the blasting with a cleaning and de-greasing in an ultrasonic bath, all the better. Once blasted over, blow any remaining abrasive powder away and then flush over with etch primer thinners. Once this has evaporated or been blown off, get a coat of etch primer on as soon as possible. When dry this will be almost impossible to remove with anything - other than a sharp instrument like a scalpel blade - providing a great base coat for the final finish. I use Railmatch (H Marcel Guest) one-pack primer (where the thinners is the activator). Don’t ever get thinners in the pot of primer - it will go off rapidly. The primer should be well thinned and sprayed in a warm atmosphere. On 1 Feb 2015, at 12:33, 'Frank Sharp' frank.j.sharp@... [O14] <O14@...> wrote:
|
|
Hi Frank, I was a little flippant.? My intent was to show the previous writers that air brushing is not that frightening.? If in doubt I would recommend Tim Shackleton's airbrushing DVDs. My steps for brass painting: 1. Lightly grit blast. PS: my little Garratt is a HOn30 unit as used by Victorian Railways NG lines in Australia. Regards
|
开云体育Rod, ? We tend to be a bit afraid of cocking up the job at the last stage. I still airbrush with trepidation, but I always think that the blokes who do hot rods and motor cycle tanks started somewhere. ? Now that is an art form, but outside its 'clan' virtually unrecognised. ? Frank ? From: O14@... [mailto:O14@...]
Sent: 01 February 2015 23:38 To: O14@... Subject: RE: [O14] Ngg16 .110 pre-painted pics ? ? Hi Frank, I was a little flippant.? My intent was to show the previous writers that air brushing is not that frightening.? If in doubt I would recommend Tim Shackleton's airbrushing DVDs. My steps for brass painting: 1. Lightly grit blast. PS: my little Garratt is a HOn30 unit as used by Victorian Railways NG lines in Australia. Regards On Feb 1, 2015 11:33 PM, "'Frank Sharp' frank.j.sharp@... [O14]" <O14@...> wrote: ? Rod, ? There is no such thing as a 'little' Garratt! ? If possible lightly grit blast before painting. Even with etch prier the key is much better. ? Frank ? ? ? Just go for it. I sprayed the smoke box with a gunmetal aerosol and air brushed the body with floquil grimy black.?? Weathering alah Tim Shackleton, and you have a dirty little Garratt. Regards On Feb 1, 2015 10:12 PM, "kevin MacIntosh kelf28@... [O14]" <O14@...> wrote: ? Thanks John, I agree , my nerves are shot,even thinking about it. ? ? On Sunday, 1 February 2015, 11:02, "mark_noble@... [O14]" <O14@yaho ogroups.com> wrote: ? ? Stunning, I find taking an air brush to a beautifully built brass / nickel silver model quite nerve-wracking, which probably explains why I have many fully built but as yet unpainted models! ? |
|
Hi Frank, I undertook an airbrushing course.? Whilst basic, I would recommend doing one as it may help to de-mystify the tool. Regards
|
开云体育Hi Folks,
?
I find the best method of learning how to airbrush, is to teach yourself.
Read the theory from magazines or internet etc (ie. paint to be thinned to the
consistency of milk etc), and then teach yourself the practical side. See what
happens when paint is too thin / too thick, see what happens when the airbrush
is too close / too far from the work piece, what happens when the pressure is
too high / too low etc, what if the needle in your airbrush is not a good choice
for the paint you are using, what happens if your air cap on the airbrush is not
sealed properly? I am sure that we all have some old paint sitting in cupboards,
which will be perfect for training purposes. I suggest used kitchen containers
are good for test work pieces, especially cans from soup or fruit or soft drink
etc. Just make sure that they are properly cleaned to the same level of
preparation as your model. The weather can also be an important factor in your
painting results. Cold damp weather is not good for painting for many paints.
?
My experience has been knowing what not to do, has made me a much better
painter, and when things are not going as they should, you need to quickly
identify what is wrong. The more times you dis-assemble your airbrush for
cleaning, the more comfortable you will get using it. I have seen some
first-class paint jobs from modellers with very basic equipment, and I have also
seen some disastrous efforts from modellers with very expensive equipment. This
all comes back to the users knowledge and skills in operating their
equipment.
?
Last piece of advice – painting can be very unforgiving when it goes all
wrong. Make sure when you set-up your airbrush for a painting session, do so
some test painting first on some scrap material, and have that feeling of
confidence, before allowing the airbrush anywhere near the model!
?
Cheers
Bruce Wood
? From: mailto:O14@...
Sent: Monday, February 02, 2015 11:11 AM
To: O14@...
Subject: RE: [O14] Ngg16 .110 pre-painted pics ?
?
Hi Frank, I undertook an airbrushing course.? Whilst basic, I would recommend doing one as it may help to de-mystify the tool. Regards On Feb 2, 2015 11:01 AM, "'Frank Sharp' frank.j.sharp@...
[O14]" <O14@...>
wrote:
|
开云体育And one thing you forgot Rod, make sure you put on a pair of disposable
latex rubber gloves, so you don’t put your lunch hooks on the bare clean brass,
or you may find problems getting paint to stick where you left your finger
prints.
?
Brian
Qld. Aust. ? From: mailto:O14@...
Sent: Monday, February 02, 2015 9:38 AM
To: O14@...
Subject: RE: [O14] Ngg16 .110 pre-painted pics ?
Hi Frank, I was a little flippant.? My intent was to show the previous writers that air brushing is not that frightening.? If in doubt I would recommend Tim Shackleton's airbrushing DVDs. My steps for brass painting: 1. Lightly grit blast. PS: my little Garratt is a HOn30 unit as used by Victorian Railways NG lines in Australia. Regards On Feb 1, 2015 11:33 PM, "'Frank Sharp' frank.j.sharp@...
[O14]" <O14@...>
wrote:
No virus found in this
message. |
开云体育The one thing a lot of people don’t do is after you have clean your
airbrush, don’t just leave it that way, pour some kero into a lid and allow the
straw of the airbrush suck some in so you are blowing kero out in a mist, then
dunk it back in again and one small squirt and leave the airbrush with the kero
in it, thinners is very harmful to O rings by leaving the kero in the gun it
keeps the O rings nice and soft, I leave my airbrush this way for 6-7 months of
the year because I am away from home, when I next want to use it I just pour
some thinners into a lid and start sucking it through the airbrush allow the
straw to blow itself clean a few times and it is then ready to start painting
again.
?
?
Brian
Qld. Aust. ? From: mailto:O14@...
Sent: Monday, February 02, 2015 11:55 AM
To: O14@...
Subject: Re: [O14] Ngg16 .110 pre-painted pics ?
Hi Folks,
?
I find the best method of learning how to airbrush, is to teach yourself.
Read the theory from magazines or internet etc (ie. paint to be thinned to the
consistency of milk etc), and then teach yourself the practical side. See what
happens when paint is too thin / too thick, see what happens when the airbrush
is too close / too far from the work piece, what happens when the pressure is
too high / too low etc, what if the needle in your airbrush is not a good choice
for the paint you are using, what happens if your air cap on the airbrush is not
sealed properly? I am sure that we all have some old paint sitting in cupboards,
which will be perfect for training purposes. I suggest used kitchen containers
are good for test work pieces, especially cans from soup or fruit or soft drink
etc. Just make sure that they are properly cleaned to the same level of
preparation as your model. The weather can also be an important factor in your
painting results. Cold damp weather is not good for painting for many paints.
?
My experience has been knowing what not to do, has made me a much better
painter, and when things are not going as they should, you need to quickly
identify what is wrong. The more times you dis-assemble your airbrush for
cleaning, the more comfortable you will get using it. I have seen some
first-class paint jobs from modellers with very basic equipment, and I have also
seen some disastrous efforts from modellers with very expensive equipment. This
all comes back to the users knowledge and skills in operating their
equipment.
?
Last piece of advice – painting can be very unforgiving when it goes all
wrong. Make sure when you set-up your airbrush for a painting session, do so
some test painting first on some scrap material, and have that feeling of
confidence, before allowing the airbrush anywhere near the model!
?
Cheers
Bruce Wood
?
From: mailto:O14@...
Sent: Monday, February 02, 2015 11:11 AM
To: O14@...
Subject: RE: [O14] Ngg16 .110 pre-painted pics ? ?
Hi Frank, I undertook an airbrushing course.? Whilst basic, I would recommend doing one as it may help to de-mystify the tool. Regards On Feb 2, 2015 11:01 AM, "'Frank Sharp' frank.j.sharp@...
[O14]" <O14@...>
wrote:
No virus found in this
message. |
开云体育Brian, ? Divided by a common language, please what is Kero? ? Frank ? From: O14@... [mailto:O14@...]
Sent: 02 February 2015 04:14 To: O14@... Subject: Re: [O14] Ngg16 .110 pre-painted pics ? ? The one thing a lot of people don’t do is after you have clean your airbrush, don’t just leave it that way, pour some kero into a lid and allow the straw of the airbrush suck some in so you are blowing kero out in a mist, then dunk it back in again and one small squirt and leave the airbrush with the kero in it, thinners is very harmful to O rings by leaving the kero in the gun it keeps the O rings nice and soft, I leave my airbrush this way for 6-7 months of the year because I am away from home, when I next want to use it I just pour some thinners into a lid and start sucking it through the airbrush allow the straw to blow itself clean a few times and it is then ready to start painting again. ? ? Brian ? |
|
Kero=kerosene=paraffin Regards
|
开云体育Frank,
?
“Kero” is short for Kerosene, which in some countries is referred to as
Paraffin.
?
I hope this helps?
?
?
?
Bruce Wood
? From: mailto:O14@...
Sent: Monday, February 02, 2015 9:41 PM
To: O14@...
Subject: RE: [O14] Ngg16 .110 pre-painted pics ?
?
Brian,
Divided by a common language, please what is Kero?
Frank
From: O14@... [mailto:O14@...]
? The one thing a lot of people don’t do is after you have clean your airbrush, don’t just leave it that way, pour some kero into a lid and allow the straw of the airbrush suck some in so you are blowing kero out in a mist, then dunk it back in again and one small squirt and leave the airbrush with the kero in it, thinners is very harmful to O rings by leaving the kero in the gun it keeps the O rings nice and soft, I leave my airbrush this way for 6-7 months of the year because I am away from home, when I next want to use it I just pour some thinners into a lid and start sucking it through the airbrush allow the straw to blow itself clean a few times and it is then ready to start painting again. Brian |
|
Hi, Looks like a superb model Kevin, extremely neat work. I am just wondering if you made any modifications to the kit? I have two of the 4mm versions that need a visit to the paint shop before selling-on and I'm tempted to get one of the 7mm kits.However, I'm not totally sure if the 4mm version is based on a particular prototype of these locomotives. When I've tried to compare the components of the 4mm version to prototype pictures I've had a hard job settling on some details. It's difficult to know if the SAR made modifications or whether a few compromises were made in the kit design - understandable in smaller scales but harder to get away with in 7mm! Thanks, Alastair ? On Mon, Feb 2, 2015 at 10:53 AM, 'Bruce Wood' bruce.wood@... [O14] <O14@...> wrote:
|
开云体育Alastair The 7mm version is sort of `shot up’.? The orginal artwork was drawn to 8mm scale and so photo reduced by half to produce the 4mm model. The 7mm model has less reduction and, therefore, less reduction of the errors that arise from hand drawn artwork. As for a prototype it’s a medley of the various batches of NGG16’s ·???????? I am part way through building several and things that spring to mind without really re-visiting them (have touched them for a while) are: - ·???????? The tanks are the right shape for the later welded ones but are covered in rivets ·???????? The rear of the bogie frames are just plain missing where they should go around the inner 2’s of the 2-6-2 ·???????? The valve gear is 1970’s triang in appearance and needs a lot of work, in particular the combination lever is way too long. (I hate engines in mid gear too) ·???????? The flycranks are wrong. Two aspects here. One is the kit hasn’t noticed that each axle in the bogie has different shaped cranks and the other is the cranks are made from multiple layers which being hand drawn rather than cut and paste CAD have significant variations requiring a lot of fettling. I have had some profile milled ? As ever the real things play musical bits. You have to work from a photo. ? Paul ? |
G Shearn
Paul Martin