?

Hope everyone is well and keeping safe.? I have a part built Roy Link Lister kit which I wish to fit for DCC?and am hoping someone may be able to offer advice on a couple of points.?Firstly?one of the motor brushes is grounded to the motor frame and picks up direct through the chassis.? I realise that the brush needs electrically isolating but I am wondering whether?I can just break the connection between brush and chassis or should I also isolate the pickup from the chassis to reduce the risk of any shorts???Being new to DCC and also not very electronically minded I hope I have explained myself sufficiently.? I am particularly wary of blowing up ?32 worth of decoder on my first attempt at fitting!? Secondly, has anyone on here fitted a decoder to the Lister and if so, where? I am looking either at one side between the axles, chassis and frames, reducing the chassis at one end and fitting it behind the buffer beam or building the kit with the canopy and hiding the decoder in the roof.? Any help, suggestions etc. would be gratefully received.

Thanks
Phil

?

Phil,

?

I milled out the centre of the chassis under the gearbox to a point where I was just NOT catching the layshaft. I then cut away some of the underside of the gearbox. I was using a very small N gauge chip. Chips have got even smaller and if you have a burley driver I think you'd get the chip in him. Wires down the legs. Maybe a sack over the shoulders to keep off the rain. I've long gone back to DC as my friends cannot remember the chip number but do understand switches. I'm on modified Kadees but someone said he'd put one in the end of the chassis, he was on link couplings. Incidentally if you can still get one a Mashima 1015 will fit if you trim the plastic.

?

Frank

?

?

Hope everyone is well and keeping safe.? I have a part built Roy Link Lister kit which I wish to fit for DCC?and am hoping someone may be able to offer advice on a couple of points.?Firstly?one of the motor brushes is grounded to the motor frame and picks up direct through the chassis.? I realise that the brush needs electrically isolating but I am wondering whether?I can just break the connection between brush and chassis or should I also isolate the pickup from the chassis to reduce the risk of any shorts???Being new to DCC and also not very electronically minded I hope I have explained myself sufficiently.? I am particularly wary of blowing up ?32 worth of decoder on my first attempt at fitting!? Secondly, has anyone on here fitted a decoder to the Lister and if so, where? I am looking either at one side between the axles, chassis and frames, reducing the chassis at one end and fitting it behind the buffer beam or building the kit with the canopy and hiding the decoder in the roof.? Any help, suggestions etc. would be gratefully received.

Thanks
Phil

?

Thanks for the info Frank, I remember seeing photos of your Lister a few years ago.? Can I ask, did you fit the pickups as the kit instructions, with one on a pcb pad and the other soldered direct to the chassis or did you isolate both from the chassis?? I believe that as I am using metal Greenwich couplings if I have a live chassis it could cause shorting problems if it contacted another loco with a chassis live to the other rail. Or am I imagining this as electrics/electronics is not my strongest point??

Regards

Phil

?

?

Phil,

?

I milled out the centre of the chassis under the gearbox to a point where I was just NOT catching the layshaft. I then cut away some of the underside of the gearbox. I was using a very small N gauge chip. Chips have got even smaller and if you have a burley driver I think you'd get the chip in him. Wires down the legs. Maybe a sack over the shoulders to keep off the rain. I've long gone back to DC as my friends cannot remember the chip number but do understand switches. I'm on modified Kadees but someone said he'd put one in the end of the chassis, he was on link couplings. Incidentally if you can still get one a Mashima 1015 will fit if you trim the plastic.

?

Frank

?

?

Hope everyone is well and keeping safe.? I have a part built Roy Link Lister kit which I wish to fit for DCC?and am hoping someone may be able to offer advice on a couple of points.?Firstly?one of the motor brushes is grounded to the motor frame and picks up direct through the chassis.? I realise that the brush needs electrically isolating but I am wondering whether?I can just break the connection between brush and chassis or should I also isolate the pickup from the chassis to reduce the risk of any shorts???Being new to DCC and also not very electronically minded I hope I have explained myself sufficiently.? I am particularly wary of blowing up ?32 worth of decoder on my first attempt at fitting!? Secondly, has anyone on here fitted a decoder to the Lister and if so, where? I am looking either at one side between the axles, chassis and frames, reducing the chassis at one end and fitting it behind the buffer beam or building the kit with the canopy and hiding the decoder in the roof.? Any help, suggestions etc. would be gratefully received.

Thanks
Phil

?

Long time ago now Phil and the loco has since been converted to OO. That's a job trying to get clearance. I'm fairly sure it is pickup one side only, it doesn't matter if the motor body is live, the brushes are isolated in the motor housing. You must however feed the brushes with the grey and orange wires and ensure that brushes have no direct connection to pick up or chassis. In the early days of DCC there was a lot of rubbish talked about having to isolate the motor. You don't, but you do have to isolate the brushes. I remember folk trying o isolate an entire XO4 in a Triang chassis when all it needed was the other brush insulating, a sleeve on the spring.

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Shorting, a wheel touching where it shouldn't is a different thing. On say an old Hammant and Morgan if you got an intermittent short the loco might hesitate but the cutout took so long to react you were past it. Because you have full power to the rack, maybe 5 amps, DCC cutouts operate much faster and the loco will stop. I prefer an all dead chassis but only insist on it if there are pony trucks. You've made me think. The couplings are Kadee, the long reach ones with the normal pivot cut off and pivoted on a piece of wire through a hole drilled in the coupler shaft. I'm fairly sure the coupling shaft is plastic, not sure you can still get them. It is Kadee not a plastic clone.

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The chip was Digitrax, the smallest I could find at the time DC123? It had functions and I toyed with light piping a glowing cigarette but decided not to push my luck.

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I can remember struggling to assemble the castings of the frames, as you got it hot enough to solder one piece the previous one fell off. I have a friend who is a silversmith and I adopted her method. Clean it all up, assemble it on a piece of Scamulex (mica I think) block with map pins, put short lengths of solder where needed, drowned in Baker's No 3 flux and played a gas torch over it. Complete frame set in 5 seconds!

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FRank

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Thanks for the info Frank, I remember seeing photos of your Lister a few years ago.? Can I ask, did you fit the pickups as the kit instructions, with one on a pcb pad and the other soldered direct to the chassis or did you isolate both from the chassis?? I believe that as I am using metal Greenwich couplings if I have a live chassis it could cause shorting problems if it contacted another loco with a chassis live to the other rail. Or am I imagining this as electrics/electronics is not my strongest point??

Regards

Phil

?

?

Phil,

?

I milled out the centre of the chassis under the gearbox to a point where I was just NOT catching the layshaft. I then cut away some of the underside of the gearbox. I was using a very small N gauge chip. Chips have got even smaller and if you have a burley driver I think you'd get the chip in him. Wires down the legs. Maybe a sack over the shoulders to keep off the rain. I've long gone back to DC as my friends cannot remember the chip number but do understand switches. I'm on modified Kadees but someone said he'd put one in the end of the chassis, he was on link couplings. Incidentally if you can still get one a Mashima 1015 will fit if you trim the plastic.

?

Frank

?

?

Hope everyone is well and keeping safe.? I have a part built Roy Link Lister kit which I wish to fit for DCC?and am hoping someone may be able to offer advice on a couple of points.?Firstly?one of the motor brushes is grounded to the motor frame and picks up direct through the chassis.? I realise that the brush needs electrically isolating but I am wondering whether?I can just break the connection between brush and chassis or should I also isolate the pickup from the chassis to reduce the risk of any shorts???Being new to DCC and also not very electronically minded I hope I have explained myself sufficiently.? I am particularly wary of blowing up ?32 worth of decoder on my first attempt at fitting!? Secondly, has anyone on here fitted a decoder to the Lister and if so, where? I am looking either at one side between the axles, chassis and frames, reducing the chassis at one end and fitting it behind the buffer beam or building the kit with the canopy and hiding the decoder in the roof.? Any help, suggestions etc. would be gratefully received.

Thanks
Phil