Hi Steve
There doesn't seem to be any hard and fast rule. Whenever I see a railway or photos I'll always study the pointwork. It?seems to be on older or simpler railways both the blades and stock rails were planed with the main feature being the original rail feet are at the same level and some more modern lines have the blades planed so they fit on top of an unplaned stock rail foot as you suggest. This requires both long blades and very sophisticated planing of the sides and top of the blade rail, and sometimes special sections of rail. Have a look at Wenz Modelbau website for German examples of such blades.
I should add that planing both is probably easier - and the inner side of the blade should be planed first.
John
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John's articles are under the Review Extras section of the Narrow Gauge and Industrial web site:
Robin
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Steve,
John Clutterbuck wrote in Review 63 that the outer rail 'may' have also been planed, the blade retaining its foot so that the tie bar had something to fix to. John's set of articles (parts 2 and 3 in Review 64 and 65 dealt with model construction) used to be
available as a free-standing download on this group, but I must admit I can't find it or the link fails. Hopefully John will see your query and give you a more definitive answer.
David
I very much enjoyed reading Trevor Hughes' account in NG&IRMR 123, of making track for his new Pendre layout. One query I have, which is totally down to my ignorance of the subtleties of narrow gauge track, concerns how the point blades are machined to
fit against the stock rail. I have recently finished the track on a P4 light railway (standard gauge) using Code 60 flat bottom rail. My researches suggested that the foot of the stockrail was left intact and the outer foot of the point blade was machined
at an angle to ride onto the foot which supported it. The inner foot of the switch being left intact. Prior to this project, and in my limited experience of 7mm NG flat bottom track making, using Karlgarin rail, I had filed away the foot of the stockrail as
Trevor has done, to make a notch to accommodate the switch, although I later read that this was not 'prototypical' as it weakened the stockrail. However knowing Trevor will have gone to great pains to get the track correct, and studying the prototype photos
in the article confirms that the stock rail did indeed have its foot cut away to make a seating for the toe of the switch blade.
Is there any hard and fast rule to this? or did it depend on the individual railway company's Chief Engineer?!
Steve
|
Steve,
John Clutterbuck wrote in Review 63 that the outer rail 'may' have also been planed, the blade retaining its foot so that the tie bar had something to fix to. John's set of articles (parts 2 and 3 in Review 64 and 65 dealt with model construction) used to be
available as a free-standing download on this group, but I must admit I can't find it or the link fails. Hopefully John will see your query and give you a more definitive answer.
David
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I very much enjoyed reading Trevor Hughes' account in NG&IRMR 123, of making track for his new Pendre layout. One query I have, which is totally down to my ignorance of the subtleties of narrow gauge track, concerns how the point blades are machined to
fit against the stock rail. I have recently finished the track on a P4 light railway (standard gauge) using Code 60 flat bottom rail. My researches suggested that the foot of the stockrail was left intact and the outer foot of the point blade was machined
at an angle to ride onto the foot which supported it. The inner foot of the switch being left intact. Prior to this project, and in my limited experience of 7mm NG flat bottom track making, using Karlgarin rail, I had filed away the foot of the stockrail as
Trevor has done, to make a notch to accommodate the switch, although I later read that this was not 'prototypical' as it weakened the stockrail. However knowing Trevor will have gone to great pains to get the track correct, and studying the prototype photos
in the article confirms that the stock rail did indeed have its foot cut away to make a seating for the toe of the switch blade.
Is there any hard and fast rule to this? or did it depend on the individual railway company's Chief Engineer?!
Steve
|
I very much enjoyed reading Trevor Hughes' account in NG&IRMR 123, of making track for his new Pendre layout. One query I have, which is totally down to my ignorance of the subtleties of narrow gauge track, concerns how the point blades are machined to fit against the stock rail. I have recently finished the track on a P4 light railway (standard gauge) using Code 60 flat bottom rail. My researches suggested that the foot of the stockrail was left intact and the outer foot of the point blade was machined at an angle to ride onto the foot which supported it. The inner foot of the switch being left intact. Prior to this project, and in my limited experience of 7mm NG flat bottom track making, using Karlgarin rail, I had filed away the foot of the stockrail as Trevor has done, to make a notch to accommodate the switch, although I later read that this was not 'prototypical' as it weakened the stockrail. However knowing Trevor will have gone to great pains to get the track correct, and studying the prototype photos in the article confirms that the stock rail did indeed have its foot cut away to make a seating for the toe of the switch blade.
Is there any hard and fast rule to this? or did it depend on the individual railway company's Chief Engineer?!
Steve
|
As REVIEW readers will know Roy C Link's superb new book on his lifetime long project to model a little known mineral railway is now available from NG&I. In summary a fascinating look into the work of one of the world's best narrow gauge modellers - full of inspiration, techniques and modelling insights.Full details here:?John
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Re: Roy Link/KBscale Lister and DCC
Thanks for the info Kevin. I was originally looking for a CT Elektronik
decoder, being the smallest available but nobody in the UK appears to be
stocking them any longer and when I posted a question on The NGRM Online
forum, I was advised to avoid them and most recommended Zimo. I ordered a
MX616 which arrived today so we'll see how I get on over the weekend!
Regards
Phil
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-----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto: [email protected]] On Behalf Of Kevin Staddon via groups.io Sent: 10 July 2020 12:22 To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [o14] Roy Link/KBscale Lister and DCC Model Railway Journal 278 has an article on chipping a 2mm class 11 shunter (LMS 08 lookalike) with stay alive.Looks like he used chips by CT Elektronik of Austria.. Perhaps worth a read. Kev S
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Re: Roy Link/KBscale Lister and DCC
Model Railway Journal 278 has an article on chipping a 2mm class 11 shunter (LMS 08 lookalike) with stay alive.Looks like he used chips by CT Elektronik of Austria..
Perhaps worth a read.
Kev S
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Re: Roy Link/KBscale Lister and DCC
Thanks again Frank for the info and tips. I am waiting for the Zimo decoder to arrive and then I’ll decide where best to fit it. In the meantime I’ll isolate the pickup from the chassis just to be doubly sure. ? Regards Phil ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Frank Sharp via groups.io
Sent: 09 July 2020 20:12
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [o14] Roy Link/KBscale Lister and DCC? Long time ago now Phil and the loco has since been converted to OO. That's a job trying to get clearance. I'm fairly sure it is pickup one side only, it doesn't matter if the motor body is live, the brushes are isolated in the motor housing. You must however feed the brushes with the grey and orange wires and ensure that brushes have no direct connection to pick up or chassis. In the early days of DCC there was a lot of rubbish talked about having to isolate the motor. You don't, but you do have to isolate the brushes. I remember folk trying o isolate an entire XO4 in a Triang chassis when all it needed was the other brush insulating, a sleeve on the spring. ? Shorting, a wheel touching where it shouldn't is a different thing. On say an old Hammant and Morgan if you got an intermittent short the loco might hesitate but the cutout took so long to react you were past it. Because you have full power to the rack, maybe 5 amps, DCC cutouts operate much faster and the loco will stop. I prefer an all dead chassis but only insist on it if there are pony trucks. You've made me think. The couplings are Kadee, the long reach ones with the normal pivot cut off and pivoted on a piece of wire through a hole drilled in the coupler shaft. I'm fairly sure the coupling shaft is plastic, not sure you can still get them. It is Kadee not a plastic clone. ? The chip was Digitrax, the smallest I could find at the time DC123? It had functions and I toyed with light piping a glowing cigarette but decided not to push my luck. ? I can remember struggling to assemble the castings of the frames, as you got it hot enough to solder one piece the previous one fell off. I have a friend who is a silversmith and I adopted her method. Clean it all up, assemble it on a piece of Scamulex (mica I think) block with map pins, put short lengths of solder where needed, drowned in Baker's No 3 flux and played a gas torch over it. Complete frame set in 5 seconds! ? FRank ? ? Thanks for the info Frank, I remember seeing photos of your Lister a few years ago.? Can I ask, did you fit the pickups as the kit instructions, with one on a pcb pad and the other soldered direct to the chassis or did you isolate both from the chassis?? I believe that as I am using metal Greenwich couplings if I have a live chassis it could cause shorting problems if it contacted another loco with a chassis live to the other rail. Or am I imagining this as electrics/electronics is not my strongest point?? Regards Phil ? ? Phil, ? I milled out the centre of the chassis under the gearbox to a point where I was just NOT catching the layshaft. I then cut away some of the underside of the gearbox. I was using a very small N gauge chip. Chips have got even smaller and if you have a burley driver I think you'd get the chip in him. Wires down the legs. Maybe a sack over the shoulders to keep off the rain. I've long gone back to DC as my friends cannot remember the chip number but do understand switches. I'm on modified Kadees but someone said he'd put one in the end of the chassis, he was on link couplings. Incidentally if you can still get one a Mashima 1015 will fit if you trim the plastic. ? Frank ? ? Hope everyone is well and keeping safe.? I have a part built Roy Link Lister kit which I wish to fit for DCC?and am hoping someone may be able to offer advice on a couple of points.?Firstly?one of the motor brushes is grounded to the motor frame and picks up direct through the chassis.? I realise that the brush needs electrically isolating but I am wondering whether?I can just break the connection between brush and chassis or should I also isolate the pickup from the chassis to reduce the risk of any shorts???Being new to DCC and also not very electronically minded I hope I have explained myself sufficiently.? I am particularly wary of blowing up ?32 worth of decoder on my first attempt at fitting!? Secondly, has anyone on here fitted a decoder to the Lister and if so, where? I am looking either at one side between the axles, chassis and frames, reducing the chassis at one end and fitting it behind the buffer beam or building the kit with the canopy and hiding the decoder in the roof.? Any help, suggestions etc. would be gratefully received.
Thanks
Phil
|
Re: Roy Link/KBscale Lister and DCC
Long time ago now Phil and the loco has since been converted to OO. That's a job trying to get clearance. I'm fairly sure it is pickup one side only, it doesn't matter if the motor body is live, the brushes are isolated in the motor housing. You must however feed the brushes with the grey and orange wires and ensure that brushes have no direct connection to pick up or chassis. In the early days of DCC there was a lot of rubbish talked about having to isolate the motor. You don't, but you do have to isolate the brushes. I remember folk trying o isolate an entire XO4 in a Triang chassis when all it needed was the other brush insulating, a sleeve on the spring. ? Shorting, a wheel touching where it shouldn't is a different thing. On say an old Hammant and Morgan if you got an intermittent short the loco might hesitate but the cutout took so long to react you were past it. Because you have full power to the rack, maybe 5 amps, DCC cutouts operate much faster and the loco will stop. I prefer an all dead chassis but only insist on it if there are pony trucks. You've made me think. The couplings are Kadee, the long reach ones with the normal pivot cut off and pivoted on a piece of wire through a hole drilled in the coupler shaft. I'm fairly sure the coupling shaft is plastic, not sure you can still get them. It is Kadee not a plastic clone. ? The chip was Digitrax, the smallest I could find at the time DC123? It had functions and I toyed with light piping a glowing cigarette but decided not to push my luck. ? I can remember struggling to assemble the castings of the frames, as you got it hot enough to solder one piece the previous one fell off. I have a friend who is a silversmith and I adopted her method. Clean it all up, assemble it on a piece of Scamulex (mica I think) block with map pins, put short lengths of solder where needed, drowned in Baker's No 3 flux and played a gas torch over it. Complete frame set in 5 seconds! ? FRank ?
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Show quoted text
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of toones4
Sent: Thursday, 9 July, 2020 18:40
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [o14] Roy Link/KBscale Lister and DCC? Thanks for the info Frank, I remember seeing photos of your Lister a few years ago.? Can I ask, did you fit the pickups as the kit instructions, with one on a pcb pad and the other soldered direct to the chassis or did you isolate both from the chassis?? I believe that as I am using metal Greenwich couplings if I have a live chassis it could cause shorting problems if it contacted another loco with a chassis live to the other rail. Or am I imagining this as electrics/electronics is not my strongest point?? Regards Phil ? ? Phil, ? I milled out the centre of the chassis under the gearbox to a point where I was just NOT catching the layshaft. I then cut away some of the underside of the gearbox. I was using a very small N gauge chip. Chips have got even smaller and if you have a burley driver I think you'd get the chip in him. Wires down the legs. Maybe a sack over the shoulders to keep off the rain. I've long gone back to DC as my friends cannot remember the chip number but do understand switches. I'm on modified Kadees but someone said he'd put one in the end of the chassis, he was on link couplings. Incidentally if you can still get one a Mashima 1015 will fit if you trim the plastic. ? Frank ? ? Hope everyone is well and keeping safe.? I have a part built Roy Link Lister kit which I wish to fit for DCC?and am hoping someone may be able to offer advice on a couple of points.?Firstly?one of the motor brushes is grounded to the motor frame and picks up direct through the chassis.? I realise that the brush needs electrically isolating but I am wondering whether?I can just break the connection between brush and chassis or should I also isolate the pickup from the chassis to reduce the risk of any shorts???Being new to DCC and also not very electronically minded I hope I have explained myself sufficiently.? I am particularly wary of blowing up ?32 worth of decoder on my first attempt at fitting!? Secondly, has anyone on here fitted a decoder to the Lister and if so, where? I am looking either at one side between the axles, chassis and frames, reducing the chassis at one end and fitting it behind the buffer beam or building the kit with the canopy and hiding the decoder in the roof.? Any help, suggestions etc. would be gratefully received.
Thanks
Phil
|
Re: Roy Link/KBscale Lister and DCC
Thanks for the info Frank, I remember seeing photos of your Lister a few years ago.? Can I ask, did you fit the pickups as the kit instructions, with one on a pcb pad and the other soldered direct to the chassis or did you isolate both from the chassis?? I believe that as I am using metal Greenwich couplings if I have a live chassis it could cause shorting problems if it contacted another loco with a chassis live to the other rail. Or am I imagining this as electrics/electronics is not my strongest point?? Regards Phil ?
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Show quoted text
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Frank Sharp via groups.io
Sent: 09 July 2020 18:13
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [o14] Roy Link/KBscale Lister and DCC? Phil, ? I milled out the centre of the chassis under the gearbox to a point where I was just NOT catching the layshaft. I then cut away some of the underside of the gearbox. I was using a very small N gauge chip. Chips have got even smaller and if you have a burley driver I think you'd get the chip in him. Wires down the legs. Maybe a sack over the shoulders to keep off the rain. I've long gone back to DC as my friends cannot remember the chip number but do understand switches. I'm on modified Kadees but someone said he'd put one in the end of the chassis, he was on link couplings. Incidentally if you can still get one a Mashima 1015 will fit if you trim the plastic. ? Frank ? ? Hope everyone is well and keeping safe.? I have a part built Roy Link Lister kit which I wish to fit for DCC?and am hoping someone may be able to offer advice on a couple of points.?Firstly?one of the motor brushes is grounded to the motor frame and picks up direct through the chassis.? I realise that the brush needs electrically isolating but I am wondering whether?I can just break the connection between brush and chassis or should I also isolate the pickup from the chassis to reduce the risk of any shorts???Being new to DCC and also not very electronically minded I hope I have explained myself sufficiently.? I am particularly wary of blowing up ?32 worth of decoder on my first attempt at fitting!? Secondly, has anyone on here fitted a decoder to the Lister and if so, where? I am looking either at one side between the axles, chassis and frames, reducing the chassis at one end and fitting it behind the buffer beam or building the kit with the canopy and hiding the decoder in the roof.? Any help, suggestions etc. would be gratefully received.
Thanks
Phil
|
Re: Roy Link/KBscale Lister and DCC
Phil, ? I milled out the centre of the chassis under the gearbox to a point where I was just NOT catching the layshaft. I then cut away some of the underside of the gearbox. I was using a very small N gauge chip. Chips have got even smaller and if you have a burley driver I think you'd get the chip in him. Wires down the legs. Maybe a sack over the shoulders to keep off the rain. I've long gone back to DC as my friends cannot remember the chip number but do understand switches. I'm on modified Kadees but someone said he'd put one in the end of the chassis, he was on link couplings. Incidentally if you can still get one a Mashima 1015 will fit if you trim the plastic. ? Frank ?
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Show quoted text
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of toones4
Sent: Thursday, 9 July, 2020 16:57
To: [email protected]
Subject: [o14] Roy Link/KBscale Lister and DCC? Hope everyone is well and keeping safe.? I have a part built Roy Link Lister kit which I wish to fit for DCC?and am hoping someone may be able to offer advice on a couple of points.?Firstly?one of the motor brushes is grounded to the motor frame and picks up direct through the chassis.? I realise that the brush needs electrically isolating but I am wondering whether?I can just break the connection between brush and chassis or should I also isolate the pickup from the chassis to reduce the risk of any shorts???Being new to DCC and also not very electronically minded I hope I have explained myself sufficiently.? I am particularly wary of blowing up ?32 worth of decoder on my first attempt at fitting!? Secondly, has anyone on here fitted a decoder to the Lister and if so, where? I am looking either at one side between the axles, chassis and frames, reducing the chassis at one end and fitting it behind the buffer beam or building the kit with the canopy and hiding the decoder in the roof.? Any help, suggestions etc. would be gratefully received.
Thanks
Phil
|
Roy Link/KBscale Lister and DCC
Hope everyone is well and keeping safe.? I have a part built Roy Link Lister kit which I wish to fit for DCC?and am hoping someone may be able to offer advice on a couple of points.?Firstly?one of the motor brushes is grounded to the motor frame and picks up direct through the chassis.? I realise that the brush needs electrically isolating but I am wondering whether?I can just break the connection between brush and chassis or should I also isolate the pickup from the chassis to reduce the risk of any shorts???Being new to DCC and also not very electronically minded I hope I have explained myself sufficiently.? I am particularly wary of blowing up ?32 worth of decoder on my first attempt at fitting!? Secondly, has anyone on here fitted a decoder to the Lister and if so, where? I am looking either at one side between the axles, chassis and frames, reducing the chassis at one end and fitting it behind the buffer beam or building the kit with the canopy and hiding the decoder in the roof.? Any help, suggestions etc. would be gratefully received.
Thanks
Phil
|
Re: Narrow Gauge & Industrial Railway Modelling REVIEW
Looking forward to this one!? 
Steve
On Monday, June 29, 2020, 01:55:10 PM GMT+1, John C via groups.io <jclutterbuck2001@...> wrote:
Issue 123 has gone to the printers for distribution next month. The contents are:
- Hulme End in O17.5 - Part 3?More Leek & Manifold model excellence in 7mm scale 17.5mm gauge by Paul Holmes
- Track for Pendre?Trevor Hughes describes how he is making the track in 1:32 scale for Towyn Pendre - Talyllyn Railway
- Marion Steam Shovel?Paul Berntsen builds a 9mm 1:32 scale model of this USA built Model 28 steam shovel with prototype photos and Makers GA scale drawing
- 18 Inch Gauge Deptford Diesel?Hunslet 4W prototype information, photo and 12mm scale drawings by Stuart L Baker
- Hunslet 233hp 0-4-0 Diesel Hydraulic in 1:76 scale?A British standard gauge diesel locomotive in Canada modelled by James Hilton with prototype photos
- A Welshpool and Llanfair Brake Van in 7mm?Ian Johnston builds a model of this classic 2ft 6ins gauge brakevan with prototype photo
And the usual editorial notes, jottings and product reviews.
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Re: Narrow Gauge & Industrial Railway Modelling REVIEW
Issue 123 has gone to the printers for distribution next month. The contents are:
- Hulme End in O17.5 - Part 3?More Leek & Manifold model excellence in 7mm scale 17.5mm gauge by Paul Holmes
- Track for Pendre?Trevor Hughes describes how he is making the track in 1:32 scale for Towyn Pendre - Talyllyn Railway
- Marion Steam Shovel?Paul Berntsen builds a 9mm 1:32 scale model of this USA built Model 28 steam shovel with prototype photos and Makers GA scale drawing
- 18 Inch Gauge Deptford Diesel?Hunslet 4W prototype information, photo and 12mm scale drawings by Stuart L Baker
- Hunslet 233hp 0-4-0 Diesel Hydraulic in 1:76 scale?A British standard gauge diesel locomotive in Canada modelled by James Hilton with prototype photos
- A Welshpool and Llanfair Brake Van in 7mm?Ian Johnston builds a model of this classic 2ft 6ins gauge brakevan with prototype photo
And the usual editorial notes, jottings and product reviews.
|
Re: O14 layout for sale in New Zealand
Paul tells me that the layout and stock have all been sold.
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Re: O14 layout for sale in New Zealand
Fantastic layout, one of my favorites. If I lived in New Zealand I would have been top of the list to buy it.
Mike Lee
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Re: O14 layout for sale in New Zealand
Thanks Kevin.
I'm sure no-one on this group needs telling that Paul is a phenomenally good modeller. It would be a crying shame for this layout to be dismantled. While the layout has indeed featured in the Review, Paul has also regularly contributed articles on construction
of locos and rolling stock, most recently Issue 120, so whoever saves the layout will also gain some well-built items.
David H
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My friend Paul Berntsen wishes to sell his O14 layout Wexford and has asked me to forward this message:
I want to sell my layout ‘Wexford’.
The layout at present occupies??a space?a tiny
bit over 4 metres by 4 metres.
There are 5 base-boards, the largest one is 3 metres by 2 metres.? This could be divided in two but is better left as one if possible.
The layout is 7 mm scale and 14 mm gauge, representing a two foot gauge common carrier somewhere in the south of England. Needless to say it is freelance!
There are 8 locomotives, 10 coaches and many pieces of goods rolling stock. There are also many road vehicles of all types.
The layout is cab control DC with two throttles. It runs very reliably.
Ideally I would like to sell it all in one go but if I get no interest I will sell parts such as the buildings separately.
I am not looking for silly money, but I do need to get a result. Call or e-mail and talk.
Paul Berntsen ?0-6-877 5334 ?
bernieofthebay@...
In an earlier form, this layout featured in issues 66, 67 and 77 of the
Review. It's located in the North Island of New Zealand, so probably only of interest to NZ modellers. If it isn't sold, Paul intends to dismantle it.
   
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O14 layout for sale in New Zealand
My friend Paul Berntsen wishes to sell his O14 layout Wexford and has asked me to forward this message:
I want to sell my layout ‘Wexford’.
The layout at present occupies??a space?a tiny bit over 4 metres by 4 metres.
There are 5 base-boards, the largest one is 3 metres by 2 metres.? This could be divided in two but is better left as one if possible.
The layout is 7 mm scale and 14 mm gauge, representing a two foot gauge common carrier somewhere in the south of England. Needless to say it is freelance!
There are 8 locomotives, 10 coaches and many pieces of goods rolling stock. There are also many road vehicles of all types.
The layout is cab control DC with two throttles. It runs very reliably.
Ideally I would like to sell it all in one go but if I get no interest I will sell parts such as the buildings separately.
I am not looking for silly money, but I do need to get a result. Call or e-mail and talk.
Paul Berntsen ?0-6-877 5334 ? bernieofthebay@...
In an earlier form, this layout featured in issues 66, 67 and 77 of the Review. It's located in the North Island of New Zealand, so probably only of interest to NZ modellers. If it isn't sold, Paul intends to dismantle it.
   
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Re: Something to do in these difficult times - RCL & NGI Competition
Thanks Steve. I've added your entry to the website:?
John
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Re: Something to do in these difficult times - RCL & NGI Competition
I'm glad you did. I've not had chance to give it a go myself but
I'm enjoying seeing others attempts,
Mark
On 14/05/2020 19:57, Steve Holland via
groups.io wrote:
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Show quoted text
Sorry, did not intend to send this to the entire group. Blame it
on the stress of working with small fiddly card parts.
Regards
Steve
John,
After (a lot of) swearing and cursing I
have finally managed to complete a card Rheidol loco.
It does look a poor battered little thing!
I thought that I would be clever and
“borrow” a sheet of card that my wife uses to make
greetings cards. I think that it may be a little thick
for this model. The card works fine for greetings
cards but did not like been shaped for small parts and
the tabs had a habit of de-laminating where they hold
the various bits of the model together. I did try
printing another sheet on to paper so that I could
have double sided vacuum pipes and tank filler vents
and tank filler handles, and it has sort of worked. I
can’t help the thought that the steam dome looks a
little like a milk can!
I also “borrowed” my wife’s set of
Promarkers to touch in the edges and they have done a
good job of covering the white card on the score
lines.
The much larger loco is a 1:24 card
mock-up of one of the Kimberley Diamond Mine Bagnalls.
Its hard to believe that they are 18 inch gauge. It
got put together a few years ago in a period of
boredom over the Christmas break, enlarged from the
drawing in the Mark Smithers book on 18 inch gauge
railways. That card mock-up started me on modelling in
1:24 scale and some of the models have subsequently
appeared in the Review. It really is about time that I
got around to converting the card mock-up in to
something “proper”.
As for would I build another card Rheidol
loco, the answer is NO. It was far too small and
fiddly for me, and card does not file very well - it
goes all fuzzy! You cannot solder it together
either……...
Can you let me know if you have a problem
detaching the photos from this please. I have an iMac
and sent some photos as an attachment to someone with
a Windows machine. He could not disentangle them from
the text so they ended up being transferred on a
memory stick.
Regards
Steve
<P1060571.jpg><P1060573.jpg><P1060574.jpg><P1060576.jpg>
I've added a page on the entries we
have received so far:?
We would welcome photos from anyone else who has
managed to complete one.
John
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Robin Edwards
David Hughes
