The Hudson Hunslet is overscale to allow a SPUD to fit. As far as I am aware the others are OK, certainly the O&K is.
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Hi David,
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My Ruston’s are the KB Scale models (and I think they are fantastic
models!)
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In search for more power and better running performance, I have replaced
the mechanisms on a couple from an Australian mechanism specialist company –
Hollywood Foundry. The “trade-off” has been that I have had to forego a lot of
the cab’s interior detail, however when the driver sits on the motor, most
observers would not be aware of the loss of the cab interior detail.
?
Bruce
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?
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Sent: Monday, August 17, 2015 2:20 AM
Subject: Re: [O14] O14 locomotives
?
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Are these Rustons built from the KB scale kits?
David
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Are these Rustons built from the KB scale kits?
David
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Thank's for that info but hwat is a 1015 can motor?
David
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I think I remember hearing
that at least some of Nonnemistre loco kits are a bit overscale
for 7mm, due to their use of commercial loco mechanisms. Am I
right about this?
--
Brian Rumary
England
brian(at)rumary.co.uk
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Hi David.
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Have a look at the Ruston’s I use on my model railway “A3014”.
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They are my favourite O14 industrial locos.
?
?
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Bruce
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Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2015 4:51 AM
Subject: [O14] O14 locomotives
?
?
I have just started on the O14 NG part of a7mm scale
lime works and quarry with a standard gauge main line transfer facility.I had
earlier purchased and built a Nonneminstre kit for an O&K locomotive that
comes complete with chassis, wheels and motor, plus some KB scale skip wagons.
there seems to be a very small number of industrial petrol or diesel locomotoves
avaialble for O14 except those from Nonnemistre that need a Wrigthlines chassis
which is no longer generally avialable.
There is of course the very nice plate-frame Simplex from Nigel Lawton but I
am afraid this would be beyond my modelling skills to build. I am after some
typical industrial/quarry type locomotives such as Simplex, Hudson Hunslet and
Ruston. Is there anything out there with an easily built or ready-to-run
chassis?
I have used Tenshodo chassis before but have not found them to be very good
at tight curves or slow running.
David
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David, ? KB scale Lister has a ready milled brass chassis. In effect a 'better' made version of the Nonneminstre O&K. The KB Lister will JUST take a 1015 can motor rather than the open frame one that comes with the kit. JUST means you have to file some off one of the plastic ends. I burnt out the original motor or I wouldn't have bothered. The Lister is still very slow and being lighter than the O&K appreciates clean wheels and track. The footplate etc is castings. I assembled all the parts on a mica block, held them in place with map pins, soaked it in flux, cut bits of 188 solder and placed them and ran the solder with a gas torch. Trying to solder castings together one at a time invites an earlier joint to melt. If I did another I'd seriously consider Araldite Precision and cure it somewhere warm. ? Because it is light haulage is limited, but having driven a real one pushing a short bogie open coach up hill and round a curve, possibly better than the prototype! ? I think you will have to solder the engine cover, but you should get away with Araldite for everything else. ? Black Beetles run a bit better than Tenshodo but aren't always a direct replacement. ? Frank ---In O14@..., <dvaughan66@...> wrote :
I have just started on the O14 NG part of a7mm scale lime works and quarry with a standard gauge main line transfer facility.I had earlier purchased and built a Nonneminstre kit for an O&K locomotive that comes complete with chassis, wheels and motor, plus some KB scale skip wagons. there seems to be a very small number of industrial petrol or diesel locomotoves avaialble for O14 except those from Nonnemistre that need a Wrigthlines chassis which is no longer generally avialable.
Th ere is of course the very nice plate-frame Simplex from Nigel Lawton but I am afraid this would be beyond my modelling skills to build. I am after some typical industrial/quarry type locomotives such as Simplex, Hudson Hunslet and Ruston. Is there anything out there with an easily built or ready-to-run chassis? I have used Tenshodo chassis before but have not found them to be very good at tight curves or slow running. David
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David, Have a look at the KB scale range. I am part way through a Ruston LBT which has a ready built chassis. I am a very basic modeller so am using glue rather than solder but so far it looks good. Mind you it been under construction for five years.
Keith HC Dursley? ---In O14@..., <dvaughan66@...> wrote :
I have just started on the O14 NG part of a7mm scale lime works and quarry with a standard gauge main line transfer facility.I had earlier purchased and built a Nonneminstre kit for an O&K locomotive that comes complete with chassis, wheels and motor, plus some KB scale skip wagons. there seems to be a very small number of industrial petrol or diesel locomotoves avaialble for O14 except those from Nonnemistre that need a Wrigthlines chassis which is no longer generally avialable.
There is of course the very nice plate-frame Simplex from Nigel Lawton but I am afraid this would be beyond my modelling skills to build. I am after some typical industrial/quarry type locomotives such as Simplex, Hudson Hunslet and Ruston. Is there anything out there with an easily built or ready-to-run chassis? I have used Tenshodo chassis before but have not found them to be very good at tight curves or slow running. David
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I have just started on the O14 NG part of a7mm scale lime works and quarry with a standard gauge main line transfer facility.I had earlier purchased and built a Nonneminstre kit for an O&K locomotive that comes complete with chassis, wheels and motor, plus some KB scale skip wagons. there seems to be a very small number of industrial petrol or diesel locomotoves avaialble for O14 except those from Nonnemistre that need a Wrigthlines chassis which is no longer generally avialable.
There is of course the very nice plate-frame Simplex from Nigel Lawton but I am afraid this would be beyond my modelling skills to build. I am after some typical industrial/quarry type locomotives such as Simplex, Hudson Hunslet and Ruston. Is there anything out there with an easily built or ready-to-run chassis?
I have used Tenshodo chassis before but have not found them to be very good at tight curves or slow running.
David
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A3014 – An O14 Micro Model Railway
Bruce Wood has provided some details on his first venture into O14 which I have posted on the group website here:
And very nice it is too.
John
| | | | | | Bruce Wood has supplied the following details on his first venture into O14: | | | | Preview by Yahoo | | |
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Re: Ulrasonic cleaning and pumice blasting
Paul, ? Grit blast then ultrasonic. If you gb then just wash and then us you'll be amazed how much gb powder the us pulls out that the wash didn't. ? us liquid, 5% Tesco all purpose cleaner used at max temp recommended for us. The us 'vibrators' are usually just stuck to the bath wall, too hot and you risk melting the glue on some types. ? Frank ?
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From: O14@... [mailto:O14@...]
Sent: Wednesday, 12 August, 2015 15:57
To: O14@...
Subject: Re: [O14] Ulrasonic cleaning and pumice blasting? ? Back to the ultrasonics again. My new 6litre tank and cheap air eraser have arrived this week.
Please remind me. I have had conflicting advice as to whether one should blast and then ultrasonic clean or the other way round. So little help is needed there.
In addition Roy mentioned using a good watch and clock cleaning fluid but the instructions to the ultrasonic cleaning bath suggests water or water with a little washing up liquid. If the watch and clock fluid is recommended has anyone any preferences as to brand and where one obtains stuff? I do hope I do not have to purchase 6 L of fluid!
My little Mark Clark Wren is now ready for painting. A super little kit once I had ironed out a few silly errors that I had made myself. And yes the smoke unit did fit in the smoke box, the decoder in the tank and the speaker in the boiler! Paul
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Re: Ulrasonic cleaning and pumice blasting
One thing we routinly do in the lab is to have the ultrasonic bath full of water (often warm) and the item to be cleaned in a separate glass beaker (jar or plastic tub works just as well) full of the cleaning solution (for us, one of several nasty acids or solvents) sitting in the water.? The ultrasonic vibrations are transmitted straight through the beaker, no problem.? This A: reduces the volume of cleaning solution needed and B: (most important for us) eliminates contamination from, and damage to the lining of the bath itself.
best regards from Sweden, George!
From: "Roy Link rclpubs@... [O14]" <O14@...>
To: O14@...
Sent: Wednesday, 12 August 2015, 18:23
Subject: Re: [O14] Ulrasonic cleaning and pumice blasting
?
Currently, I’m using OK 2-720 from Rotajet () this is a non-ferrous metal cleaner/brightener. Mine is a 5 litre container but you dilute the fluid with water at about 1 part fluid to 9-10 parts water - so you get a lot.
You don’t of course, need to fill the ulrasonic bath container right up!
Back to the ultrasonics again. My new 6litre tank and cheap air eraser have arrived this week.?
Please remind me. I have had conflicting advice as to whether one should blast and then ultrasonic clean or the other way round. So little help is needed there.
In addition Roy mentioned using a good watch and clock cleaning fluid but the instructions to the ultrasonic cleaning bath suggests water or water with a little washing up liquid. If the watch and clock fluid is recommended has anyone any preferences as to brand and where one obtains stuff? I do hope I do not have to purchase 6 L of fluid!?
My little Mark Clark Wren is now ready for painting. A super little kit once I had ironed out a few silly errors that I had made myself. And yes the smoke unit did fit in the smoke box, the decoder in the tank and the speaker in the boiler! Paul
|
Re: Ulrasonic cleaning and pumice blasting
Currently, I’m using OK 2-720 from Rotajet () this is a non-ferrous metal cleaner/brightener. Mine is a 5 litre container but you dilute the fluid with water at about 1 part fluid to 9-10 parts water - so you get a lot.
You don’t of course, need to fill the ulrasonic bath container right up!
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Back to the ultrasonics again. My new 6litre tank and cheap air eraser have arrived this week.?
Please remind me. I have had conflicting advice as to whether one should blast and then ultrasonic clean or the other way round. So little help is needed there.
In addition Roy mentioned using a good watch and clock cleaning fluid but the instructions to the ultrasonic cleaning bath suggests water or water with a little washing up liquid. If the watch and clock fluid is recommended has anyone any preferences as to brand and where one obtains stuff? I do hope I do not have to purchase 6 L of fluid!?
My little Mark Clark Wren is now ready for painting. A super little kit once I had ironed out a few silly errors that I had made myself. And yes the smoke unit did fit in the smoke box, the decoder in the tank and the speaker in the boiler! Paul
|
Re: Ulrasonic cleaning and pumice blasting
Back to the ultrasonics again. My new 6litre tank and cheap air eraser have arrived this week.
Please remind me. I have had conflicting advice as to whether one should blast and then ultrasonic clean or the other way round. So little help is needed there.
In addition Roy mentioned using a good watch and clock cleaning fluid but the instructions to the ultrasonic cleaning bath suggests water or water with a little washing up liquid. If the watch and clock fluid is recommended has anyone any preferences as to brand and where one obtains stuff? I do hope I do not have to purchase 6 L of fluid!
My little Mark Clark Wren is now ready for painting. A super little kit once I had ironed out a few silly errors that I had made myself. And yes the smoke unit did fit in the smoke box, the decoder in the tank and the speaker in the boiler! Paul
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Re: Pewsey Sat 15th August 2015
A reminder for this Saturday. Please stop by for a chat and have a go at spikng some track if you are so inclined.
John
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Re: Narrow Gauge & Industrial Railway Modelling REVIEW
Managed to cancel my subscriptions to Greystar Publications by PayPal but I had find the transaction by clicking on Activity, selecting to right dates to search, clicking on the transaction to bring up the details then selecting "manage Greystar Publications Payments" this brings you to a cancel option highlighted in green top left of the page. Email confirmation followed.
Hope this helps someone.
Julian Saxton
NGA 1933
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Re: Narrow Gauge & Industrial Railway Modelling REVIEW
Dear Gary,
You don’t need to do anything if you did not subscribe using PayPal. I have a reconstructed record of subscribers - but no details regards how they have paid. ?I can see your subscription expires with issue 104 (presume you have received issue 103) and you will get a renewal form with that issue. As long as you did not pay by PayPal, you do not need to do anything. Otherwise, look at you PayPal account, locate and cancel the recurring payment.
The problem is with subscriptions made via PayPal where they are set to ‘auto renew’. While the Greystar PayPal account is supposedly closed - it is still, for some reason, accepting funds from any subscriber where they have not cancelled recurring renewal of the subscription payment.
There is no longer a Greystar (or Greystar bank account) - all future dealings you need to make via myself. Thus I am not accepting responsibility for any payments to PayPal (Greystar) after Bob’s death (May 15th) as these cannot be recovered either by myself, or Bob’s executors. You can only claim from PayPal themselves - as they hold the funds.
Regards,
Roy
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Do you mean EVERY SUSCRIBER should cancel their subscription (then presumably take out a new one with RCL instead of Greystar)? Gary Gary Shearn
Marlborough | SN8 1PA
?It seems that many of the subscriptions to both Finescale Review and NG&IRM Review have been set up in PayPal as recurring payments and, despite them being formally notified of Bob's death (twice), the payments are still automatically being taken. The best way to solve this is to log in and cancel using the following instructions (borrowed from another forum).
If you log into Paypal, look for pre-approved payments.
I find it easier to navigate using the "classic site," and you'll find pre-approved payments (and for some reason Paypal seems to create a pre-approved permanent payment for all subscriptions,)? under "Profile,"? and then under? "My Money. " From there, you can see what has been set up, and cancel any you don't want.
Please spread the word. John
?
?
DISCLAIMER: "Opinions, conclusions and other information contained in this e-mail that do not relate to the official business of Marlborough College shall not be understood as endorsed or given by the College. Any attachments are confidential and may be the subject of legal privilege. Any use, copying or disclosure other than by the intended recipient is unauthorised. If you have received this message in error, please notify the sender immediately and delete this message and any copies from your computer and network"
|
Re: Narrow Gauge & Industrial Railway Modelling REVIEW
Do you mean EVERY SUSCRIBER should cancel their subscription (then presumably take out a new one with RCL instead of Greystar)?
Gary
Gary Shearn
Marlborough | SN8 1PA
?
It seems that many of the subscriptions to both Finescale Review and NG&IRM Review have been set up in PayPal as recurring payments and, despite them being formally notified of Bob's death (twice), the payments are still automatically being taken. The best
way to solve this is to log in and cancel using the following instructions (borrowed from another forum).
If you log into Paypal, look for pre-approved payments.
I find it easier to navigate using the "classic site," and you'll find pre-approved payments (and for some reason Paypal seems to create a pre-approved permanent payment for all subscriptions,)? under "Profile,"? and then under? "My Money. " From there, you
can see what has been set up, and cancel any you don't want.
Please spread the word.
John
?
?
DISCLAIMER: "Opinions, conclusions and other information contained in this e-mail that do not relate to the official business of Marlborough College shall not be understood as endorsed or given by the College. Any attachments are confidential and may be the subject of legal privilege. Any use, copying or disclosure other than by the intended recipient is unauthorised. If you have received this message in error, please notify the sender immediately and delete this message and any copies from your computer and network"
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David/ KBScale has been in touch tonight - faith restored!
Dudley?
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Ordered some wheels on their website this morning. Just had an email saying they'll be despatched after the weekend.
Cheers, Andrew
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On Aug 6, 2015, at 18:43, dudhub@... [O14] < O14@...> wrote:
?
12th July 2015 I wrote to KBScale and have phoned four times since all to no avail. No answers despite leaving a Voicemail message either. The website advises email or phone contact for 'any questions' - it all seems so open and yet my experience shows otherwise. I'd like to place an order for ?48 or so and yet I'm not going to.
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Paul Holmes
G Shearn