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All right, all right, NOT the best wording choice for a message title! :)


I'm referring to the use of miniature neon bulbs and such for the purpose of creating a colon SIGN (:) to separate the pairs of tubes corresponding to hours, minutes and seconds on our clocks.

After a few years (yeah, that bad), I'm finally coming to terms into finishing the case for my first clock, Tubehobby's IN-18 kit. Inasmuch as I like shiny metal cases best, I realized that a clock without a case is a sad clock, and worse than having a clock with a less-than perfect case is not having a clock at all. So, for the time being, I settled for a wooden box.

Now, I like every aspect from the Tubehobby kit, except that, in my opinion, they left little phisical space between the pairs of tubes, to the extent that an onlooker may have the impression that it is not a clock but some kind of seconds counter. So... colon signs would alleviate that problem.

What are the best bulbs to be squeezed in that position? I've heard of people removing small neon bulbs from old-timey camera flashes, but I'd have to find four identical flashes to draw from.

I've also seen pictures of inverted small "laboratory tubes" or other types of assemblies being used to hold the bulbs in place.

I'd love to hear your thoughts on this, also from other Tubehobby kit owners.

Cheers,

Marco

--- In NEONIXIE-L@..., "cagamba" <cagamba@...> wrote:

Now, I like every aspect from the Tubehobby kit, except that, in my opinion, they left little phisical space between the pairs of tubes, to the extent that an onlooker may have the impression that it is not a clock but some kind of seconds counter. So... colon signs would alleviate that problem....

Hi Marco,
We are in the same boat (or the colon ;)). I spent some time trying to figure out how to put a colon in NCV2.1 kit. In theory it's possible - the tiniest neon bulb I found has 4mm diameter and there is 5mm extra space for the colons. But (there always has to be a 'but') one 4mm neon is hardly a colon - you need two. And to have them looking acceptably nice you need a housing for them - eg. the test tube. And there simple is not enough space, period. Actually even the 4mm looks to crowded in between the IN-18s.
I simply settled for not having the colons. Even considered making my own PCB, but decided against. The famous Klok housing doesn't use them either. BTW Mike from Klok, after I asked him says he thinks about making a case for the tubehobby kit.
So, my suggestion would be - go for the nerdish design of 6 tubes inline ;) I am going for it. My case is all beautifully sketched in the google sketchup. Just waiting to be carved in aluminum and plexi :D.
Cheers,
Marcin

On 10-08-30 01:26 PM, cagamba wrote:

I've heard of people removing small neon bulbs from old-timey camera
flashes, but I'd have to find four identical flashes to draw from.

They exist in One time use cameras. If you have a photo lab nearby they might sell you some empties if you promise you won't electrocute yourself. They only get about 50 cents from the recycle programs. and with the low volume it might take a while for them to accumulate a batch. Just say you are doing an art project or something.

--
Charles MacDonald Stittsville Ontario
cmacd@... Just Beyond the Fringe

No Microsoft Products were used in sending this e-mail.

[edited by A.J. - please trim quoted material]
On Mon, Aug 30, 2010 at 1:35 PM, Marcin <mr.adamski@...> wrote:

--- In NEONIXIE-L@... <NEONIXIE-L%40yahoogroups.com>,
"cagamba" <cagamba@...> wrote:

Now, I like every aspect from the Tubehobby kit, except that, in my

opinion, they left little phisical space between the pairs of tubes, to the
extent that an onlooker may have the impression that it is not a clock but
some kind of seconds counter. So... colon signs would alleviate that
problem....

We are in the same boat (or the colon ;)). I spent some time trying to
figure out how to put a colon in NCV2.1 kit. In theory it's possible - the
tiniest neon bulb I found has 4mm diameter and there is 5mm extra space for
the colons. But (there always has to be a 'but') one 4mm neon is hardly a
colon - you need two.

<snip>

Scroll to the bottom of this site: for some nice
neon bulbs...

-Ian

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

On Mon, Aug 30, 2010 at 1:26 PM, cagamba <cagamba@...> wrote:

I'm referring to the use of miniature neon bulbs and such for the purpose
of creating a colon SIGN (:) to separate the pairs of tubes corresponding to
hours, minutes and seconds on our clocks.

Here's what I've been doing lately.
I use 4 insulated thin metal tubes to position two small neon bulbs, one
just above and slightly behind the other.
You do need some small neon lamps. Allspectrum.com used to have some nice
3mmx8mm bulbs, but I don't see them in stock anymore. The 3.2mm here:
might be okay, but not too sure about
that color.

Next get some (approx) .030" OD and >=.015 ID metal tubing. The ID has to
be a little larger then the lead diameter of the neons. I've used SS
hypodermic tubing (very stiff), but copper (or brass) will also work. Copper
deforms easily, but at least you can solder it.

SS tubing can be had from amazon

and thin copper tubing is on ebay

(one
example)

You also need some thin clear heatshrink tubing (3/64").

I cut 4 pieces ( two matched sets) of the metal tubing to the height I
like, two are for the front neon, and are somewhat shorter. Heatshrink the
length of tubing except for about an 1/8" on the bottom that will be
inserted into the PCB. I like using clear heatshrink because after you
shrink it, it practically disappears and you can really see the metal
tubing's natural color (copper does look pretty nice).

If the tubing is copper you can just solder it into a PCB, If stainless,
you'll have to use millmax (or equiv) sockets, because it's almost
impossible to solder stainless steel.
The neons lamps leads just insert into the top ends of the tubing. Leave
the neon's leads long and friction makes the electrical contact, there's no
nead to actually solder the lamps into the tubes. You'll have to do your own
PCB or arrange something else to hold the lower ends of the tubes in place.

I tend to leave the nixies exposed on my clocks, the neon support tubes are
thin enough that you don't really notice them. Between the nixie tubes
blocking physical access, and the heatshrink, I'm not really worried about
the risk of shock. But I do make sure to put high value resistors on the
anode lines leaving the clock body.


You can see some pictures of the technique in fabulous blurry nixievision
here:



-carl

--- In NEONIXIE-L@..., "cagamba" <cagamba@...> wrote:

All right, all right, NOT the best wording choice for a message title! :)

Colon like... Christopher? ;)

I'm referring to the use of miniature neon bulbs and such for the purpose of creating a colon SIGN (:) to separate the pairs of tubes corresponding to hours, minutes and seconds on our clocks.

Why not use the same "light pipes" used by Tektronix in several of their 4XX series ?
It's just an acrylic rod of the size and shape you want the indicator to be, that has been polished in the flat ends and made opaque all around by sanding or another similar process. It can work also without the sanding. You could even make a full colon with only one neon bulb as light source.

Regards
Gaston