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Short out the antenna to the coax ground, using a clip lead, then use the nano to locate the shorted antenna, or put a 50 ohm resistor across the coax, and look for a perfect match at most

I repurpose old micro-USB cables and 5 V chargers with these USB-C adapters: https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-PCS-USB-Type-C-Male-Connector-to-Micro-USB-Female-Converter-USB-C-Adapter-OTG-/202659762902

Good that you found it, although I should think that any USB-C cable should work. The simplest solution is perhaps to charge it from your computer. However that begins to get problematic if you are

Hello Richard, I have exactly the same problem here. I have some twenty antennas in the attic. The house is a 120 years old Victorian so the attic is huge. We've owned it the last twenty-one years and

I purchased a NANOVNA-H some time ago to learn and hopefully solve a problem. With an attic full of antennas that have all coax running to a box in the shack, I no longer knew which cable came from

Traditionally, the B in dB is capitalized because it someone's name.? Alexander Graham Bell. V, A, W, F, H, C etc are also capitalized because the units are named after people, Volta, Ampere, Watt,

Mine didn't have a charger but had a USB-C cable - you charge it using any USB-C (or USB-A) charger.? I've used both: MacBook Pro which has USB-C, but also has adapters to USB-A - I've also charged

Thanks to all that responded. I found the charging Cable I needed. It was a little deeper in the drawer than I expected. Mikek

Did the unit come with that USB-A to USB-C cable? Maybe I need to keep looking. Mikek

You can also plug the USB-A to USB-C cable into your computer USB connector and connect the USB-C into the NanoVNA and it will charge. *Clyde K. Spencer*

Typically the NanoVNA does not ship with a charger, only the USB-A to USB-C cable. You can charge the NanoVNA using a cell phone charger with a USB-C connector. If you have the microUSB connector you

I pulled my NanoVNA-H out just to charge it, it has been a while since I used it. It powers up fine and the indicator says the battery is low. I see the connector is not the usual micro USB on my

dec·i·bel noun a unit used to measure the intensity of a sound or the power level of an electrical signal by comparing it with a given level on a logarithmic scale. db is what I would call

I would agree with this. There was a paper in an IEEE journal saying that the term return loss is used badly. As far as the author was concerned, a return loss of > 0 dB implied a gain - negative

Here is the take away... The minute you say Return loss, everyone knows what it means... 73, and thanks, Dave (NK7Z) https://www.nk7z.net ARRL Volunteer Examiner ARRL Technical Specialist, RFI ARRL

TU all for such wonderful comments, all helping me to visualize the concept of RETURN measurement. I think when we add the word return LOSS it bothers me. A double-negative is always problematic: so

I would argue that if you WRITE DOWN "RETURN LOSS -26dB" I would think of that as a double-negative. If it's a loss, as with finances, it's negative. A negative loss is a positive (double-negative!)

Just my 2 cents ... I agree that it is a convention ... but to me it still is a "historical error" (not sure, but I think the formula with the minus sign was introduced by HP) . It is generating more

Many thanks Roger, for your answer ... Just pointing-out to the series resonant circuit (at very input before the semi-rigid line) : 47 ohm - 330nH - 220pF ! I cannot understand what is its purpose

Peter, it helps to think of the active devices, the PA power transistors, as horribly non-linear devices. The base-emitter junction is a forward biased diode, whose small-signal parameters vary over