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Alton, Everything you need is in the forum Wiki and File areas.? Print off a copy of the user guide and that will get you started.? There is a lot of information that has been created in the forum

There is a pdf file in the files section like 2nd or third from the bottom entitled how to write firmware for windows, it something similar [email protected]> wrote:

Hello Everyone. Wonderful project! I received my H4 instrument about two weeks ago. It was in a black box with gold printing with cables, cal stds, etc. I should upgrade the firmware to the latest. I

On the previous question about why using the OPEN cal standard instead of nothing. The standard prevents the ingress of any stray RF that might be floating around.

Try this variant of firmware vs you card Now for card init used low speed SPI bus (~280kHz) If not work, need try check Card slot pins, and card should be inserted as on foto Used pins: And send logs

Larry and all, I executed the calibration via app/Saver, and tried a bunch of filters, some reversed also. I enclose the scans. For less narrow filters, I enlarged the scan window, but I assume the

Yes I just made a former out of 1/4" thick 'Tufnol' that measured 34mm x 13mm which is good for the two outer shields. Then using 0.005" thick brass foil I marked out the shapes of the shields 34mm x

Radu, If you're using NanovnaSaver, use that app to perform and save the calibration and see if you get different results. I know that you can save a number of calls in the Saver app.? Larry On Sun,

Excellent! Thanks again for all the hard work. On Sun, 24 May 2020 at 10:27 AM, DiSlord<dislordlive@...> wrote: In my test i use Samsung EVO Plus 128Gb HD XL Samsung EVO Plus 32Gb SD HC Kingston

Thin brass solders easily with regular electronic solder (at least it did before they took the lead out). You might want to tin it along the edges you are soldering together. Also cuts fairly easily

On run external program scan, calibretion data always rebuild, and use interpolation Do not pay attention to it, if start stop freq some, no difference

I never change the frequency range (center/span) - at least, not intentionally. I really only expect to be using this to sort IF filters, and for these a range from 10.4 to 11MHz or so works pretty

Dave, I am curious how you soldered (braized?) the brass shim. I've been thinking about making my own shields (not for my nano) but am a bit intimidated by my lack of experience with brass. Thanks,

Hi, I wonder if before recall a saved calibration we should do a reset first. 73, Bill KU8H

Big letter mean used calibration data stored in flash If you change frequency, or use multisegment scan from NanoVNA saver or another program, calibration table rebuild and use interpolated values

Larry - I re-executed the calibration over 10.4 through 11MHz, saved to "1," and I always recall it before measuring. However, the letter changes every time I start the scan (from "C1" to "c1") - I

At HF the Anritsu tee is likely not going to be that much better a cal as the supplied SOL. To test it cal with the ANritsu Tee and then measure the supplies SOL. Likely any difference you see will be

You want to calibrate with as nearly to test jig configuration as possible. For example, when measuring with alligator clips, I calibrate using alligator clips.

Hi DiSlord and Larry, Thanks for all info. DiSlord,? I did flash the latest? 0.9.1 firmware initially, but to be sure and in case you updated the 0.9.1 release I loaded the one you gave me the link

My test SD cards foto