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Here is another fixture idea. The connectors are Pomona BNC female #2451 and the contacts are a Phoenix Contact #1190363. In the photos the "short" is installed. You can see that there is an easy match between the BNC center conductor and the pin of the Phoenix contact. Three #4 standoffs 9/16" are used and it is epoxied after assembly and soldering.

/g/nanovna-users/album?id=298861

Mouser link to Phoenix Contact:

Mouser link to Pomona BNC:

Because noise is pickup by the braid of your coax.

Hi Barry,
Did you tried to place chokes at the transceiver side and one at the feedpoint side ? That would normally solve your noise level issue.

Best 73, Ben

Hi John Gord

Did SAA2N & LiteVNA64 has the same firmware of NanoVna-H4 ? And did they work as good as -H4 on 10Khz-300Mhz band ?

73's Nizar

If you are in the US, R and L Electronics (randl.com) has the 3GHz NanoVNA SAA2N at $110 and the 6GHz LiteVNA64 at $160.
I have both, and have been very happy with R and L as a supplier.
--John Gord

A natural evolution. As a related comment, using Amazon as a relative comparison, the H4 versions are U.S. $60-$90 while the V2 versions (with N connectors or SMA) run $250-$360.

My understanding is that the answer was the clock chips are the reason for the variants. So it is important to discover which version of the hardware a person has to install the right firmware.

Thus I had questioned about thinking the H4 had 2 chips that were toggled by the firmware. But was corrected, as there is only one.
It was stated that the H4 would be wrong for the frequencies I mentioned and I asked out of curiosity why that would be so.

I would like to think not only was the question answered but everything after was a relevant or related segway.

Firmware Versions -> Hardware Variants -> Clock Chips -> How this directly effects our work.

Any 0805 resistor will do, they are all "non inductive".
Just search for SMD resistors. You usually get a couple
with that board kit.

On Thu, 7 Nov 2024 at 22:51, Gervail Antoine via groups.io
<gervail.antoine@...> wrote:

Excatly when I just ordered Draganm thanks for the tip about the other "pins".
Do you have any aliexpress link where I can find the SMD resistors ? is the non-inductive part really important under 100Mhw though ?

Hello group,
Can I ask what all this has to do with the ORIGINAL QUESTION??

"Why so many different names for the firmware .DFU files?"

I love how so many people seem to enjoy HIGHJACKING a subject.
At least the moderator should change the title to what the subject has become.
Just my question.
Thank you,
73's
KC7BJE

Yes non-inductive is very important.



One of these will suffice

Sorry, Dragan.. querty keyboard..

Excatly when I just ordered Draganm thanks for the tip about the other "pins".
Do you have any aliexpress link where I can find the SMD resistors ? is the non-inductive part really important under 100Mhw though ?

Good to know about the limitations in the VHF UHF domain. I'll keep that in mind when testing for now I'll mostly stay in the HF domain trying to analyse my "future" EFHW antenna.
I guess as you said William I'll need to play with it and watch a lot of youtube videos to increase my understanding of what's going on and how to measure it.
I prefer testing and understanding what's going on rather than just building something as someone said and just assume it works so I'll probably come back with more questions :)

Dave I'll need to get my hand on some non-inductive resistor then !

Those are good up to ~100MHz, really useful
for all sorts of small components. Don't overpay for it,
these usually go for ~$3:

A really useful addition when using this board are these pins (the
ones with pins on both sides):
(bit pricey for what they are).
You can use them to make your own calibration standards, just solder
2 SMD 100Ω resistors in parallel to the pins.
Also great with the female variety when measuring single SMD components.
Solder the female pins to an SMA connector, use your standards to
calibrate and then use
the male pins to hold your DUT.




On Thu, 7 Nov 2024 at 21:50, Gervail Antoine via groups.io
<gervail.antoine@...> wrote:

Really interesting document, I'll definitely try to reproduce the steps and I will be really happy if I can make it work.
And also really nice little fixture.
I did a bit of digging and found this kind of board, I guess it would be easier for me to calibrate as I don't have any non inductive precision resistance to calibrate.
Did any of you ever used that before ?

You don't need "precision" resistors. "Close enough" like 47 or 51-ohms
for a 50-ohm non-inductive resistor. The most importance consideration is
that it's non-inductive.

Dave - W?LEV

On Thu, Nov 7, 2024 at 9:08?PM William Schrader via groups.io <wtschrader=
[email protected]> wrote:

Gervail:

Thanks for the tip*. There really is NO definitive, easy-to-understand
users' manual for the NanoVNA-H4. There are many YouTube sites that you can
find. I've looked at many of them as I learned how to use mine.
One guy's presentations have impressed me the most. His call is W2AEW, and
the YouTube to one of his instructions is at:
.

* Caution about that clever "breadboard" that you showed: I think it will
be a great one, EXCEPT at higher frequencies in VHF/UHF. That's just
because the lead-lengths become important up there. But, I'm gonna have to
try it out for myself. [I just bought a pair of shielded test leads that
have male SMA at one end and small alligator clips at the other. The trick
in selecting was to find a pair where the shielding went as far as possible
to the end. Many of the ones i found on AMAZON had a short jumper from the
SMA connector to a splice point, from which two separate long lengths of
unshielded wire emerged to go to the alligator clips. I think that
arrangement is a big mistake. I have some hf bandpass filters to align;
will see how these new cables do --once they get shipped in a couple of
weeks [Hurry up, Guangzhou--I havent got all day!]

73
Bill K2TNO



On Thu, Nov 7, 2024 at 8:50?PM Gervail Antoine via groups.io
<gervail.antoine@...> wrote:

Really interesting document, I'll definitely try to reproduce the steps
and I will be really happy if I can make it work.
And also really nice little fixture.
I did a bit of digging and found this kind of board, I guess it would be
easier for me to calibrate as I don't have any non inductive precision
resistance to calibrate.
Did any of you ever used that before ?

--

*Dave - W?LEV*


--
Dave - W?LEV

*Now down to two HF antennas at new QTH at Crosslands Retirement Community (Kennett Square) SW of Philly*

*
*

*Still have major high noise level from 1-10 MHz? and? working to solve it.
*

*
*

*1)? NVIS? horizontal? end-fed? 135 ft? -? tunes up easily on low end of 80m/40m/20m/ 17m/15m/10m*

*???? SWR about 2.5:1? on 30m band, but I have a Hustler mobile antenna for 10 MHz band
*

*2)? Vertical (made from old Cushcraft A10)? 16 ft? with home-made matching coil at base: covers 20/17/15 meters for low-angle DX with a few radials
*

*Both antennas doing well, catching signals from all over the world on the vertical.*

*Horizontal wire is doing well on the NBEMS regional nets on 80m and 40m.*


de k3eui? barry

Gervail:

Thanks for the tip*. There really is NO definitive, easy-to-understand
users' manual for the NanoVNA-H4. There are many YouTube sites that you can
find. I've looked at many of them as I learned how to use mine.
One guy's presentations have impressed me the most. His call is W2AEW, and
the YouTube to one of his instructions is at:
.

* Caution about that clever "breadboard" that you showed: I think it will
be a great one, EXCEPT at higher frequencies in VHF/UHF. That's just
because the lead-lengths become important up there. But, I'm gonna have to
try it out for myself. [I just bought a pair of shielded test leads that
have male SMA at one end and small alligator clips at the other. The trick
in selecting was to find a pair where the shielding went as far as possible
to the end. Many of the ones i found on AMAZON had a short jumper from the
SMA connector to a splice point, from which two separate long lengths of
unshielded wire emerged to go to the alligator clips. I think that
arrangement is a big mistake. I have some hf bandpass filters to align;
will see how these new cables do --once they get shipped in a couple of
weeks [Hurry up, Guangzhou--I havent got all day!]

73
Bill K2TNO



On Thu, Nov 7, 2024 at 8:50?PM Gervail Antoine via groups.io
<gervail.antoine@...> wrote:

Really interesting document, I'll definitely try to reproduce the steps
and I will be really happy if I can make it work.
And also really nice little fixture.
I did a bit of digging and found this kind of board, I guess it would be
easier for me to calibrate as I don't have any non inductive precision
resistance to calibrate.
Did any of you ever used that before ?

Really interesting document, I'll definitely try to reproduce the steps and I will be really happy if I can make it work.
And also really nice little fixture.
I did a bit of digging and found this kind of board, I guess it would be easier for me to calibrate as I don't have any non inductive precision resistance to calibrate.
Did any of you ever used that before ?

On 11/7/2024 12:26 PM, W0LEV wrote:

The attachment should at least get you going.

Dave - W?LEV


On Thu, Nov 7, 2024 at 12:08?PM Gervail Antoine via groups.io
<gervail.antoine@...> wrote:

<snip>

Thanks Dave, looks good.

Mike C. Sand Mtn GA

The attachment should at least get you going.

Dave - W?LEV


On Thu, Nov 7, 2024 at 12:08?PM Gervail Antoine via groups.io
<gervail.antoine@...> wrote:

Hello guys,
I'm new here and I'm having a hard time figuring out how to use my NanoVNA
to measure those things.
I made a search in the group topics but it's always about the results and
I can't really find any simple tutorial on how to take those measurements.
- About transformers I would like to measure the ratio but I don't really
know where to plug my nanovna to do that and how to configure it.
I have "three outputs" primary, common and secondary. Should I use the 2
ports of the nanoVna to try and obtain a result ?
- for the inductors I would like to know if I can just plug to the 2 ends
of it and find it's value ? which value should I show on my display ?
- for the trap filter I used the method where you just go through the
inductor with a cable and look at the phase but I'm not really sure it's
the best way to do it, can I just plus to A and B on my graph and look at
the result instead ?

If you have any link or video that shows the detail of the measurement and
wiring process I'd greatly appreciate that.
As I said I'm a new ham so I don't really know how to use my VNA except
for measuring SWR of my antenna but I'm convince it's a great tool, I just
need to learn how to use it.

--

*Dave - W?LEV*


--
Dave - W?LEV