The WTCP irons are not cheap irons. I have three of them at work. I can
verify that the tips are grounded.
I have a cheapie Weller 25 watt iron that I added a solder lug and a wire
with an alligator clip on to one of the three screws that hold the metal
heating assembly onto the plastic case. I use that th ground the tip.
Zack W9SZ
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Sun, Oct 2, 2022 at 11:01 PM KENT BRITAIN <WA5VJB@...> wrote:
Yes, and I have seem the ground pin cut off, and I have seen miss wired
wall sockets.
Just letting people know that simple/cheap soldering Irons can kill
digital electronics. Kent
On Sunday, October 2, 2022 at 08:38:29 PM CDT, Jim Lux <
jimlux@...> wrote:
On 10/2/22 5:37 PM, KENT BRITAIN wrote:
If you measure capacitance between the AC cord to the Iron tip, you get
about 200 pf.
The AC voltage is capacitively coupled to the Iron tip unless you have a
specially grounded IRON,(And have the Ground Connected)
So the average soldering iron is a 200 pf cap plugged into 120 VAC going
to your circuit. Kent
The typical Weller WTCP irons all have grounded tips.
On Sunday, October 2, 2022 at 05:33:28 PM CDT, <
linhz0hz@...> wrote:
I am interested if anyone figured this out, because I just fried mine
nanoVNA SAA-2N just now. -_-!
I was building some homebrew amplifier. Before measuring that, I wanted
to calibrate the test PCB before I put in my transistor. So I would solder
different resistors on the board and take measurement. The board is not
powered (completely passive).
It was tedious, I got lazy and did not remove my nanoVNA while I solder.
I had DC-blocking capacitors though and I got away doing that a few times
before so I imagined it would be fine.
But apparently it is not fine this time. Now if I just connect Tx to Rx
port, I got high reflection (close to an open) and only -20dB transmission.
Software part seems to work still, so I suspect RF front end was killed. I
open the casing and took a look, but I don't want to make a rush decision
and break it further. Also those EMI shields looks hard to remove.
So does anyone have advice for me on what is the most efficient way to
repair? And do you expect a soldering iron to have damage like this (I
still don't fully believe it!) or is this something else?
