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Hopefully, someone in this group has experience or better yet copy of better instructions. I have finally taken on the task of changing to the N scale of Nevada retro frame for an "old" Atlas Pacific. (one of many postponed projects) I've got (AFAIK) the only instructions that John Coots sent out BUT... they are either incomplete OR missing some (important) instructions! Hopefully someone has done one of these and hopefully might be able to help me. Right now I's trying to fit the retro into the boiler shell. A bit of filing the retro starts letting it descend into the shell. But (to start) ... the instructions do not mention cutting out the lower section of the cab shell (the back) nor how much to remove or change AFTER removing the light bulb up front. I hope someone decades ago went through this process and can help. This one is a puzzle! I'd rather not wish I hadn't started. If I had it to do over again... I'd contact John and offer to get advice AND OFFER to write a good instruction sheet. Any help GREATLY APPRECIATED. Gordon Andrews sryn.dump@...

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Hi folks, After many years at getting to this stage, I'm about ready to start having my Tortoise switch machines and my track block sections wired up to my control panel. All of my track currently has bus wires and feeders installed. Cuts will be made into the track to isolate the block sections. Tortoise switch machines already in, just need to be connected to the control panel toggles. Here's the questions: What gauge wire should I use going to the control panel toggles to the Tortoise switch machines? Wire length will range from 3' to 17'. What gauge wire should I use going to the control panel toggles to the track block bus wires? Wire length will range from 4' to 16'. I have on hand 400' of 20 gauge and smaller amounts of 20 and 12 gauge wires. Thanks for any assistance provided. -- Todd K Stearns

Dear All, if you have a kato sd40-2 mid production (not early), can you make a picture of the exploded part diagram and send it to me here ? Just checking how to fit some DCC board. thanks Stefano

While I have the Atlas turntable and a swap meet version of the Peco turntable, I am thinking in terms of a Strictly Manual turntable. I've seen images where what looks like a wooden wheel is used to turn the turntable. This is for a smallish operational layout (roughly 7' x 11' u-shape). Does anyone have any experience with doing this and what are the challenges and pitfalls to be expected. While I have the turntable a little inboard of the edge of the layout as planned, I can probably adjust the location a bit if that will make doing the manual operations easier/more efficient, etc. And, please, I am not looking for 'better to go DCC' or 'just use indexing' advice. I really want to do it manually if I can. Just need to be able to align properly (index) and reverse polarity. Only three stall roundhouse, shoreline bridge route layout circa 1925 - 2-8-2 with tender, 9 40' cars and a wooden caboose would be a typical train - I believe in the philosophy that a train should fit the space and that is what works for me. N scale isn't just for broad curves and long trains. Thanks!

Anyone convert their collection to the "MTL True Scale Couplers"? Was it hard? Was it worth it? TIA -- Commander boB DAMTRC

I am looking for someone who can kit bash a vista dome observation car for the CB&Q Denver Zephyr. It was different than a regular rounded end dome as it was flat and had a rear door. They could be used in the middle of a train as well as the observation car. I am unable to do this due to health problems. Send me your info if interested and we can talk about it. I have some information on how to build one from a Con Cor coach and a Kato dome car.

Hi there I am trying to reach the folks at the North Raleigh Model Railroad Club following the instructions of their web but nobody answers. Somebody here related to them ? Are they still active ? Thanks stefano

I am looking for Kato C44-9W shells, complete or parts. I have two good mechanisms and I need body parts, most notably the sills and walkway parts. What I need is not offered from Kato, so that is not a source. If anyone has them, let me know. V/R Larry P. Card Franklinton NC _________ ./___________\. (]]]___o___[[[) |\_o_______o_/| |__|.......|__|

Anyone have a favorite source for tamiya paints and weathering powders in the US? thanks, jeff

Same set $4 more but with free shipping for Amazon Prime members: Art Alternatives Artist Soft Pastel Set, 12-Pieces, Earthtone - colorful pastel sticks for blending, sketching, and drawing: https://a.co/d/bq7S8z4

Hi all, I'd love some pointers to detailed up close youtube tutorials on how to make realistic grass patches. From ground/structure all the way to any airbrushing and materials used. N-scale obviously. Not nessecarily a single video. I 'm finding YouTube getting harder and harder to search for what I'm after. Too much content? Thx, Dirk

Has anyone undertaken such a project or attempted to improve an existing model from say Atlas ? Bob

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January ZoomTRAK Saturday the 11th Terry Moore's Talkin' T-TRAK Wiring Kato Crossovers –Steve Jackson Big Canyon – an NTRAK Project – OK N-Rail Questions can be directed to ZoomTRAK@... Bruce G Alcock | OK N-Rail | 405-381-4314 | nytrr@...

Merry Christmas everyone. Looking for advice on sound decoders with lots of features. I received a new BLI SW7 switcher with a Paragon 4 sound decoder installed. Hands down the sound and feature set is so much better than the other 2 drop ins I have on my Kato diesels, a MRC and a Digitrax SDXN167, the newer one. The Digitrax is the most anemic sound wise, I may need to reset it and try a different profile in Decoder Pro. But the BLI honestly opened my eyes(ears) to what sounds can be had with these. Is there a brand similar to the Paragon 4 in terms of feature set and sound quality? It’s my understanding the Paragon 4 only comes in BLI locos and cannot be purchased separately. Would love to get my Kato’s up to a similar standard.