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My project thread

 

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Nice looking wire wheel and great that it's mostly used parts.

Back before the "foreigners can't teach kids" ruling we were showing how to repair and make things.? Started with helping a retired teacher fix her broken flower stand as her first time welding.

Apparently caused quite a stir, kids realizing you can fix things instead of buying new.
 

This is called a mixer valve.
It's function is to mix natural gas with the air intake charge to fuel the engine.
The replacement valve assembly was made out of 12l-14 free machining steel with a 6061 T6 poppet.
I figured that the aluminum was an ok choice because technically this engine only runs about 40 hours a year now.
The valve stem bore is being opened up on a Bridgeport vertical to accept the larger diameter replacement I made.
The 80+ years it was in active service finally wore it completely out.
The pintle in the original photo trashed the bore in the housing until the poppet broke off of it and shut the engine down.
?
?
It's really cool to be an active member in our Association and to have the skills required to keep as much of it alive as possible.
The flywheels on this puppy are about 7 feet in diameter.
We use a Farmall M tractor to fire it up because the air starter got away from it decades ago.
 

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only 80 years old?? They don't make them like they used to.? ?

Good work keeping this old stuff alive, more people need to know how things work other than asking your phone to do it for you.

On 16-Feb-25 23:21, Nitro via groups.io wrote:

This is called a mixer valve.
It's function is to mix natural gas with the air intake charge to fuel the engine.
The replacement valve assembly was made out of 12l-14 free machining steel with a 6061 T6 poppet.
I figured that the aluminum was an ok choice because technically this engine only runs about 40 hours a year now.
The valve stem bore is being opened up on a Bridgeport vertical to accept the larger diameter replacement I made.
The 80+ years it was in active service finally wore it completely out.
The pintle in the original photo trashed the bore in the housing until the poppet broke off of it and shut the engine down.
?
?
It's really cool to be an active member in our Association and to have the skills required to keep as much of it alive as possible.
The flywheels on this puppy are about 7 feet in diameter.
We use a Farmall M tractor to fire it up because the air starter got away from it decades ago.
 

Technically the old gal is 120 years young.
She was actually put in service in 1905, but was only in service until about 1985 before we got a hold of her.
?
 

This planer table was born in 1850, so that makes her our oldest girl in the shop.
It will require a ton of work and a few parts made for her, but I think she can still be the belle of the ball one day soon.
?
 
Edited

1970 Murray Eliminator? restomod project.
Day one of my $20 purchase.
The wheels were too scrapped out to salvage, a brake caliper and handle were missing, so it was time to source some new parts out of my pile.
A 26 inch donor bike provided all of the brake hardware and it's Sturmey-Archer 3 speed planetary rear hub.
20 inch allow wheels were sourced for the project, but the spoke count of the original hub didn't match the new rear rim, so the 26 inch bike gave up hers for the build.
That in turn required the disassembly of three more wheels to play mix and match with the proper spoke length for my re-lace.
A vintage style cheater slick was sourced for the rear of it, and the front got treated to a super skinny tire for a three wheeled recumbent bike to stay with the dragbike theme.
The fenders were sourced from a bike that got squashed by a car.
?
Since they were off a new bike, I did a faux patina treatment on them.
?
They were sanded to bare metal then painted with a very similar color as what little paint was still left on the bike then soaked in a solution of white vinegar, table salt and hydrogen peroxide until the rusting began and killed most of the new paint.
?
The original seat was about as hard as glass, so I soaked it in heavy coats of tire shine compound for about a month to soften her back up.
That actually worked perfectly and allowed me to retain the patina on it.
?
Basically, every bearing got replaced, new brake shoes and stainless cables were added to it and the end result was a bicycle that retained her well earned look but was all new where it counted, hence the restomod designation.
 

There were several machined parts required for mounting the brake calipers and to affix the shifter cable to the rear hub, so in essence, this was yet another shop project that required some machinetools to pull it off.
 

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My wife used chlorine bleach in a spray bottle to age ironwork.? She used to be a wrought iron designer/fabricator in a very upscale area.? The type where you don't ask what someone does for a living, you just price your work accordingly and NEVER cheat them.

On 17-Feb-25 0:58, Nitro via groups.io wrote:

1970 Murray Eliminator? restomod project.
Day on of my $20 purchase.
The wheels were too scrapped out to salvage, a brake caliper and handle were missing, so it was time to source some new parts out of my pile.
A 26 inch donor bike provided all of the brake hardware and it's Sturmey-Archer 3 speed planetary rear hub.
20 inch allow wheels were sourced for the project, but the spoke count of the original hub didn't match the new rear rim, so the 26 inch bike gave up hers for the build.
That in turn required the disassembly of three more wheels to play mix and match with the proper spoke length for my re-lace.
A vintage style cheater slick was sourced for the rear of it, and the front got treated to a super skinny tire for a three wheeled recumbent bike to stay with the dragbike theme.
The fenders were sourced from a bike that got squashed by a car.
?
Since they were off a new bike, I did a faux patina treatment on them.
?
They were sanded to bare metal then painted with a very similar color as what little paint was still left on the bike then soaked in a solution of white vinegar, table salt and hydrogen peroxide until the rusting began and killed most of the new paint.
?
The original seat was about as hard as glass, so I soaked it in heavy coats of tire shine compound for about a month to soften her back up.
That actually worked perfectly and allowed me to retain the patina on it.
?
Basically, every bearing got replaced, new brake shoes and stainless cables were added to it and the end result was a bicycle that retained her well earned look but was all new where it counted, hence the restomod designation.
 

I learned early on while doing business to treat your customers fairly, but never neglect that you are selling service that cost you a lifetime to learn.
In manufacturing, the rule of thumb is good, fast and cheap.
The unfortunate part is that the buyer only gets to choose two of those three.
 

Buffalo-Springfield boiler hand hole cover stud replacement.
The original bolt was leaking where it passed thru the casting and failed a static pressure test, so I drilled and tapped it on my Logan to put it back in service.
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This old steam roller isn't exactly little, but she passed her boiler inspection and got to proudly cruise the grounds once again.
That is my '50 Farmall H parked in the roadway beside it.
(24 horsepower ride-on toy)?
 

The cover not hard but not cheap.
The best is use class 45 cast iron or better and use old one as a pattern.? Most foundries do not do this type work any more because of labor.??
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I have made for new equipment in steel plate just made heavier.?
?
Dave?
 

How is cover going?
?
Dave?
 

That project was finished last summer.
We passed our boiler inspection with flying colors afterwards.
We also wrote g code to make future ones out of steel plate.
?
The new breed of pressure vessel inspectors are unaware that all riveted boilers leaked until they were first fired, when rust and calcification took over and finished the seal.
Had they let us fire it first, it would have probably fixed itself.
?
Next up is to look into getting approval to manufacture steam boiler injection pumps.
The machinework is simple, it's the bureaucracy that creates the bottleneck.
 

That fantastic?
Congratulations on passing.??
We need inspectors it is a pain waiting for inspection but is very need.?
?
Sounds like you work steel
?
This has nothing with boilers. The Northridge earthquake found thousands of shops using solids on buildings. Since the late 1970’s California ban use of solid mig wire on buildings. The next big one was bad welds found on buildings and bridges. FYI I have both buildings and hangar doors in? LA area and all my shop's? work pass the xray and other test. My shop follow all rules.?
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Keep up the good work on inspection it is very need to keep us safe. ?
?
Dave?
?
?
 

Mini alternator kits for nostalgia drag racing.
There are three different kits available, one which caters to the small block Chevrolet crowd, one for the 348/409 racers and of course the Mark IV Chevy big block series.
What these offered was a relocation to the original power steering location, a deep grooved pulley on the alternator and a 65 amp alternator that weighs in at about half the weight of the 35 amp AC Delco units.
The smaller size of the one wire Denso alternators allows them to fit where the steering pumps used to reside.
My kits eliminate the flimsy stamped bracketry in favor of substantial 3/8ths inch 6061 T6 ones too.
Each kit was delivered with a hardware package, so all that was necessary was the install and a one wire hookup to use them.
?
I also provided a deep grooved? 5 inch diameter crankshaft in the kits that slows the alternators down.
That gives you back a little of the power lost from winding one up.
The smaller unit saves space, withstands higher revs better and has about twice the output of the AC Delco units.
?
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?
?
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Looks great?
?
Dave?
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On Thu, Feb 27, 2025 at 02:14 PM, Nitro wrote:

Mini alternator kits for nostalgia drag racing.
There are three different kits available, one which caters to the small block Chevrolet crowd, one for the 348/409 racers and of course the Mark IV Chevy big block series.
What these offered was a relocation to the original power steering location, a deep grooved pulley on the alternator and a 65 amp alternator that weighs in at about half the weight of the 35 amp AC Delco units.
The smaller size of the one wire Denso alternators allows them to fit where the steering pumps used to reside.
My kits eliminate the flimsy stamped bracketry in favor of substantial 3/8ths inch 6061 T6 ones too.
Each kit was delivered with a hardware package, so all that was necessary was the install and a one wire hookup to use them.
?
I also provided a deep grooved? 5 inch diameter crankshaft in the kits that slows the alternators down.
That gives you back a little of the power lost from winding one up.
The smaller unit saves space, withstands higher revs better and has about twice the output of the AC Delco units.
?
?
?
?
?
 

My Grizzly sitting on the table of an 1850 build date planer table in the Fred R Clark Machineworks.
She will now reside in that shop instead of on my diningroom table.?
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Her first job there was resizing the shank on a tool for our Diamond 22 horizontal milling machine.
The second one was a refit on the cross feed handle that the original owner did a butcher operation on.
Fresh chips are a good thing, right?
 

Like seeing photos?
Gives a sense of being in shop and you giving us a tour.
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This time year everything slows down until after April 15.?
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Thank you
Dave?

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