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Charger project 10
I have a Marquart Charger project I would like to sell. If interested please call 760-963-1470. I am in So. Calif.
Started by Warren Wallis @ · Most recent @
Aileron cove fairing question 4
Howdy folks, I have a question you may be able to help with. I'm working on the sheet metal that encloses the aileron cove, and trying to figure out the best way to do it. In the plans, it's made of three pieces, a top and bottom which I think are meant to be glued on, and then a middle piece attached with PK screws. For those who've built this area, what do you think of attaching the middle piece with screws? It has always looked tenuous to me, and it's getting worse as I try to actually make the parts. PK screws into .020" sheet just seems like a terrible idea. I suspect it's specified that way to provide a way to get to the aileron pivots, and because rivets would be impossible to drive, once the top and bottom pieces are glued on. And PK screws are much lighter than the other choices. How did you end up doing this area? Did you attach that center piece with screws? Rivets? Provide any backing material on the tops and bottoms for the screws to have more thread engagement? Use rivnuts? Something else entirely?
Started by Ian Johnston @ · Most recent @
Catto Spinner 6
Has anybody ever mounted a Catto carbon-fiber spinner? I bought one for my project and am getting ready to cut it. Two questions: Catto sends 20 screws with the prop for mounting to the bulkhead. This seems like a lot relative to what I’ve read. But maybe I should use all 20 because of the carbon fiber. Thoughts? Second question: Spinners are expensive and cutting them is nerve wracking. You can see in the pictures below how I’m lining up the prop slots. Are there any suggestions as to how to get the cut absolutely, positively correct? It seems like it would be very easy to miss on one side and end up with a lopsided cut. (The white patches on the spinner are epoxy, microsphere slurry for filling in some gaps. I got the unfinished version for painting and it came in pretty rough. Catto says to fill with Bondo or epoxy slurry. When Catto says unfinished, they mean unfinished.) Thanks
Started by P. S. Brannan @ · Most recent @
开云体育 subscription level 6
When I set up this group I opted for premium so that we could have the "import from Yahoo" feature. You also have to have premium to have more than 100 members. We have 143. Premium now costs $220 per year. Long story short: would any of you be willing to donate to sustain the group if I enabled donation? It will take a bit of work to do it, so I don't want to bother unless there is sufficient interest. $220 is 1.54 per person per year. Rather than have everybody donate a tiny amount a more realistic approach is to take the first 11 donations of $20. How many of you would be willing to donate if I set this up? Thanks, Pat
Started by P. S. Brannan @ · Most recent @
Contact info 3
Hello , anyone have contact info for Dave Schenk, from Longmont, Co.??? Thanks! George Clifton..
Started by george clifton @ · Most recent @
Wing Tank Cut, Shape, and Weld Plan 4
I'm ready to fab the tank for the upper left wing and am interested in how people laid this out on their own projects. It looks to me like the effort will include 2 side pieces, a bottom piece, and a top piece. The side pieces will be largely responsible for shaping the contour of the tank. I won't be doing the welding myself but I will be taking the fabbed pieces to the welder. Any pictures or suggestions?
Started by P. S. Brannan @ · Most recent @
Wing tank construction and fit 12
I'm getting ready to make my wing tank forms and have a few questions just to make sure that I properly understand the plans and what has worked in the past: 1. It looks to me like the tank just rests on top of the spars (with pads) and is held down by a single strap. Fabric is run directly over the tank. Is this correct? 2. My best guess, is that the tank should fit as snugly as possible without being a force fit. This is both across the spar tank supports and between the ribs. Is this right? If something is loose I can always pad it in. 3. What about the bottom? Should the tank bottom clear the 1/8 ply? I'm guessing so since the tank appears to be supported primarily by the flanges on the front and back.
Started by P. S. Brannan @ · Most recent @
Wing tank fuel gauges 5
I’m working on my upper wings and wing tanks. What’s the feeling about fuel gauges for the wing tanks? It would certainly be nice to have them, but do I need them. In my case, the wing tanks will transfer to the main. No fuel in main, no engine and I will have an accurate gauge on the main. What have people done?
Started by P. S. Brannan @ · Most recent @
Top wing rear center bracket 2
I'm putting the spar butt brackets on my top wing, and realizing i may have caused myself some trouble. The bracket is taller than the spar, so there doesn't seem to be a good way to locate it without causing problems down the line when I want to make a fairing for the top wing centerline. I located the bracket so it's centered on the spar centerline, but that puts the lower rear leg of the bracket nearly 1/4" proud of the spar surface, which will make for an almighty bump in the fairing. How did you all deal with this problem?
Started by Ian Johnston @ · Most recent @
Aileron brace doesn't quite fit 8
In putting my aileron together, I've discovered that the brace (-351) and its matching washer both poke below the bottom surface of the spar by about 3/32". Everything is per plans (part sizes, hole placement, etc), as far as I can tell. I've attached a picture showing the problem. Is this something you'd trim off, or do you leave it, and there's some future covering step that makes it irrelevant? -- Composed and sent by Morse code He/they
Started by Ian Johnston @ · Most recent @
Aileron end gaps? 6
I'm putting my first aileron together, and have discovered that the plans dimensions for the spar create a gap of about 3/4" on the inboard end, and pressing against the wing rib on the outboard end. I assume these gaps should be about equal, when I settle on the actual length. Is a ~3/4" gap about the right size? It seems a bit big, but I don't want to build up the aileron then discover it binds on the ends once I've got fabric and paint on. Any thoughts or experience appreciated! -- Composed and sent by RTTY he/they
Started by Ian Johnston @ · Most recent @
Aileron pivot bolt 3
I was just putting together my aileron hinges for the first time, and realized I'd never seen hardware specified for actually joining the aileron assembly to the wing assembly. Lots of hardware for attaching hinges to assemblies, but what's the bolt on which everything pivots? I'm guessing, based on context, that the intended bolt is probably an AN4-12 or AN4-13, and an AN310-4 castle nut with the appropriate cotter pin. Would there be a washer in there? Or am I on the wrong path, and this would be an AN394-21 or -23 pin? It's not urgent, but I'll need the right hardware at some point. Thanks for any help you can provide. -- Composed and sent by RTTY he/they
Started by Ian Johnston @ · Most recent @
Locating the roll wire / cowling intersection 5
Anybody have a good method for locating the roll wire / cowling intersection? I have rigged my plane, but stupidly did not create a way to locate the roll wires on the cowling before derigging. My current idea, is to put the cabane struts back on, bend some aluminum to mock out the fitting geometry, and clamp a laser pointer to the sheet metal. there isn't a ton of play in the cabanes, so that should get me close. Is there a better way?
Started by P. S. Brannan @ · Most recent @
Fuel Tank Access
Depends on how the tank is designed. I can pull mine out the bottom. I think. Have not had to do it. But, it only holds 16 gallons. It’s smaller than some I have seen. I also designed the top sheet metal so I can remove it without de-rigging. But I would not want to do it unless absolutely necessary.
Started by John @
Drag wire tension? 7
I'm finally assembling my first wing panel again, after I had to repaint some parts, and I find myself wondering about drag wires. I decided to go with 3/16" wires rather than drag strips, as being lighter for the same strength (no welding to take them out of the Normalized condition). If you're interested in my reasoning, I laid it out here: https://www.obairlann.net/reaper/blosxom.cgi/2018/12/07#2018-12-07 I have two questions. The first is, what's a ballpark drag wire tension, however you might measure it? Right now, I've got the wires about as tight as I can twist them by hand, which I'd guess puts me in the region of 100 lbs tension on the wires. The second question is, what do you recommend to keep the wires separated where they cross? My thoughts have been heat-shrink tubing, a piece of felted wool or leather tied in place with lacing cord, a piece of HDPE cut from a milk jug, etc. I'd appreciate any thoughts you have. Thanks! -- Composed and sent by RTTY he/they
Started by Ian Johnston @ · Most recent @
Rib vs. drag wire interference 4
I'm putting together my first wing panel, the upper left. I've got the ribs on, the wedges glued in, compression tubes installed, and am now working on the drag wires. I see that on two of the ribs (#4 and #6, counting in from the wingtip), the drag wire rubs on a rib diagonal. If I shift those ribs 1/2" or so off their intended location on the spar, this eliminates the rubbing. If I leave them in place, they slightly deflect the wires (I'm using 3/16" 4130 rods rather than the strips specified in the plans). I've seen other folks cut away a section of the offending diagonal, and add a brace below or above the missing section, to reinforce it. Neither solution seems optimal, but I'll have to do one or the other. I imagine that using drag strips, the interference would be even worse. What have others done in this situation? -- Composed and sent by RTTY he/they
Started by Ian Johnston @ · Most recent @
OF Wedge Blocks and Cabane Fittings 9
I'm working on assembling my first wing, starting on the upper left wing. I've got the ribs on the spars, and am currently working on sorting out the wedge blocks. I haven't yet made any permanent changes, but I'm getting close. One problem I've run into is that the forward cabane fitting doesn't quite fit. The issue is that the forward wedge, when set to the correct thickness-of-spar width, doesn't lift the entire bracket off the spar. The lower corner of the bracket impacts the spar before it can move far enough inboard (red arrow in this picture, and off-center marker is visible through the larger central hole): http://obairlann.net/reaper/aviation/biplane/buildlog/images/20201225_194642-mod.jpeg It looks like the correct solution is to make a new bracket that's a bit wider, to allow the wedge block to slide further inboard, picking up the whole width of the bracket rather than leaving part of it to hit the spar. The other solution, which seems much less good, is to cut into the spar a bit to allow the bracket to move inboard, but I am loathe to impinge on the spar if at all possible. Making the bracket wider would have a relatively simple knock-on effect, which is that the cabane attach point would have to be made longer. Presumably I would want any extra width to be taken up equally forward and aft of the spar's centerline, so as not to introduce any offset stresses at that point. Has anyone else run into this problem? Everything I've done is exactly per the plan, so I'm guessing I'm not alone here. What did you do to address the issue? Is there anything I'm missing? Here's where the cabane fitting detail is shown: http://marquartcharger.org/plans/Sheet%2006%20-%20Upper%20Wing%20Fittings.pdf You can see that the plans and my photo don't quite match, as far as how much of the bracket the forward wedge is lifting. It's close, but it looks like the plans don't have the edge of the bracket cutting into the spar, whereas mine would require that. The cabane details are here: http://marquartcharger.org/plans/Sheet%2021%20-%20Wing%20Strut%20Assembly.pdf Thanks for any help you can offer. -- Composed and sent by RTTY he/them
Started by Ian Johnston @ · Most recent @
Looking for a Marquart MA-5 Charger 2
Group, I'm looking for a MA-5 for sale. Don't want a fixer-upper, looking for one in good shape and flying. Anyone selling, or know of one for sale? Thanks, Randy Compton
Started by Randy Compton @ · Most recent @
N422DH 7
Group, Anyone know anything about these Chargers? This one looks nice, but not much info about it in the ad. Looks like the builder is the owner and seller. The broker doesn't know a thing other than that he thinks the price is firm. MARQUART MA-5 CHARGER Single Engine Piston for sale - 2388984 $38000.00 MARQUART MA-5 CHARGER Single Engine Piston for sale - 2388984 MARQUART MA-5 CHARGER Single Engine Piston for sale located in from Hadden 2388984. Search 1000's of Aircraft l... This one is over two years out of annual, almost two years since last flown. Seems like this could be a high-risk airplane as far as issues that arise from a plane being a hangar queen. https://www.controller.com/listings/for-sale/marquart/aircraft Any thoughts/opinions? Thanks, Randy
Started by Randy Compton @ · Most recent @
marquartcharger.org 2
I can't recall if I've announced it here or not, so consider this the announcement: I've set up basic website at https://marquartcharger.org. It's got a bit of intro text, a specs page, and the plans and articles that have been collected other places, like Facebook and Yahoo. I realize most of the folks here don't need a website like this, but it can be a good resource to give to others interested in the Charger, and it allows you to pull up plans sheets at any time (which is most of what I end up using it for). It also allows access to all the articles without having to create yet another online account. If you have particular things you want to see there, let me know, I'm always interested in making it better. -- Composed and sent by RTTY he/him or they/them
Started by Ian Johnston @ · Most recent @
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