Hello all. Working on the owners side shower and having issues with back pressure against the shower sump pump. Of course, there is NO way to get under the actual shower to inspect or replace the line. Once I get the pump primed and flowing it will clear the pan but if I drain it all the way I start getting back pressure from the line leading overboard and it’s difficult to get the pump primed enough to override the back pressure. Any ideas on how to get the line draining overboard so it can be clear? I’ve followed the line from the drain through the pump and down the starboard side to the thru hull just above the engine exhaust. For some reason there must be a droop or slight kink in the line causing it to not drain all the way, and the sump pump must overcome that pressure to start pumping overboard. Thanks for any ideas or assistance. Can’t believe there is no physical way to get to the lines under the shower stall. Geez!

Hi Jesse

I've had a long saga of problems with emptying the shower sump in the owner's shower. Happily none for quite some time. I have a few suggestions. Firstly, the shower pump in my boat is a Gulper 220 and is situated in the locker under the sink. Beside it is another Gulper 220?which empties the bilge. Try using the bilge pump for the shower. I can swap the pipes and the electrical connections over without any difficulty - only takes 5 mins!. For me, this always provides an emergency solution for emptying the shower tray. If as in my case this always fixed the problem, it all points to the shower pump being the problem. The obvious answer was then to replace the flap valves on the faulty pump by fitting a new service kit. I did this several times but although it fixed the problem for a while it always returned. Eventually I decided to test the new valves before putting the pump back. I did this by simply sucking/blowing on each side of the pump to see if the flap valves made a good seal. Surprisingly they didn't. To cut a long story short, I had to file the valve seats to remove extraneous plastic from the area to make the flap valves seal properly. Since then all has been well.

Like you I have long wondered how on earth I'd get to the pipework under the sump. I was thinking about it just a few days ago and it occurred to me that maybe the sump waste fitting is screwed into the shower tray from above. If so, one could possibly remove the fitting and get to the pipework. I checked mine and it is screwed to the tray. I don't know if this will work but I'll try it if I ever have to.

Clive
Lady Caroline L380 S2 #420

I put in an Attword?shower sump in our Lagoon 380 S2. It wasn't all that difficult (as boat projects go). I thought that I got the idea from this forum, but I could be mistaken.

Basically, I installed the sump box on top of the keel hole, through the small floor access hatch right by the stairs. I epoxied on some wood strips that it sits on, and the box screws into the wood. I took the hose that connects to the inlet on the Gulper pump, which has a Y in it that connects the pipes from the shower and bathroom drains, and attached another length of hose that runs to the sump box. I then took the outlet hose from the Gulper pump and put it on the outlet of the new sump box. I used the existing wiring for the Gulper pump, but I bypassed the momentary switch from the toilet area so that it is "always on" (the Attwood has its own float switch...). It would work a little faster if there was more of an incline down to the sump box, but it works great.

It has worked flawlessly for three years now. The Lagoon system of pressing the button on the slow pump wasn't for me, I've been very happy. And I considered rigging in the refrigerator drain to the box, but never got around to it. It would work fine and the Attwood?sump box has three inlets of various sizes. Having a through-hull for the fridge drain seems crazy to me.

Matt?
S/V Independence
2005 Lagoon 380 S2

开云体育