Sailrite sewing machine for sale
2014 blue sailrite LSZ1 ,walking foot, zigzag,portable industrial machine $800. Plus shipping and handling. Located in Northwest Florida.?
?Leslie FROLIC
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Re: Lagoon 440 recall action
We had the brackets installed as a warranty matter on our 2018 450. In my view this is not an acceptable fix for a structural issue with the hatches. If the boat is supplied with fixed glass escape hatches, then that is the specification that one has paid for. Installing some brackets that effectively screw into the hull to keep the glass in the hatches is something different altogether. Would anyone be interested to turn this into a class action to get Lagoon to replace all suspect hatches with models they can guarantee to actually work to specification? I guess if enough people get together they could be moved to fix this properly, or am I just being precious here?
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Re: Lagoon 440 recall action
Thanks for posting the Lagoon notes. I'll ask here if anyone has completed the bracket install and how did it go?? Does anyone know what instigated the recall? What was the issue with these fixed hatches??
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Re: Lagoon 440 recall action
not to jump in but I contacted Lagoon and was informed that this recall does not affect the 410 models. ?
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Re: Lagoon 440 recall action
here's what I got for my 400. I think they're all the same. Looks pretty easy
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Re: Lagoon 440 recall action
Hi
hatches, seals, spares etc. can be found cheap at hatchmasters.com
Amazing service!
Best regards?
Martin?
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Re: Lagoon 440 recall action
Could someone post a copy of the letter and instructions and a photo of the brackets? Anyone done the fix and have feedback?
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Re: Lagoon 440 recall action
No charge for kit, they mailed it immediately to the states so I can bring it down to the boat in Grenada.
I would be interested in replacement hatches.? Retaining the glass is not my idea of a long term fix.
Maybe the hatches need to go entirely.
SV Bonanza
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Re: Lagoon 440 recall action
Hi
yes same Recall....I received a letter in French... a little difficult to understand... to get the kit did you have to pay for it?
Cheers
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Re: Lagoon 440 recall action
We have a 2009 Lagoon 420,? Contact Christine Pocreau at C.pocreau@...? ?ask about Goiot survival panel recalls.? She initially said we were not affected but later followed up with a email stating we were on the list.? We have received retention brackets for install with instructions.? It was recall notice #19009 for our boat but do not know if the 440s will have the same recall number.? ?
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Re: Lagoon 440 recall action
Seen nothing so far re our 440
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hi
anyone out there?receive the recall notice regarding the escape windows/ hatches?
If so, what do you understand it is saying we have to do in regard to receiving the bracket kit?
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I am out of the office beginning Friday October 11, 2019 and will return Friday October 25, 2019. I will be traveling out of the country in a remote area and will have sporadic access to email. If this is an emergency please contact Jeffrey Musman at ?jmusman@... or 617 946-4938. ?Thanks and have a good day. ? Mike Callahan ? Callahan &? Associates, LLC 10 Smith Lane Swampscott, Mass. 01907 Tel 781 258-1471 Email: CallahanMichaelF@... ?
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Re: Winter condensation and mould
At the 450 all cabins have vents at the big hatches. I leave them open (it has never rained in), and leave open also all doors to cabins and toilets. I haven't had any problems with mildew yet, except on my rainwear in the closed closet.?Also have been on the hard in Cleopatra. (Wouldn't let any more work be done there, the Saildrive oil was still milky after the paid oil change in my absence -, during the removing of the impeller of the generator they damaged the water pump - and instead of admitting that I was billed for more useless repairs. Finally this had to be repaired by another shipyard.)?
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Re: Winter condensation and mould
John wipe the complete interior with distilled white vinegar before closing her up... ?lasts 6-8 months before any mold can get a grip... it¡¯s a great cleaner as well.
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My 2006 (hull #369) Lagoon 389S has two electrical outlets in the port side under the bunk. They are for the hot water heater and what used to be the battery charger. The tricky thing is they both only function when hooked up to shore power. I¡¯ve now changed over to a 3000w charger/inverter and lithium batteries so I¡¯d like these outlets to work with the inverter OR shore power as may be available.
I¡¯ve tried to trace down the split between these outlets and the rest of the boat to no avail. Does anyone have an idea or schematic or likewise boat that was modified? With my current setup I can now power everything on the hook and I even have enough to run the hot water heater off the lithium instead of cranking an engine.
Thanks for all the ideas and help over the years.
J. Walls
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My 2006 (hull #369) Lagoon 389S has two electrical outlets in the port side under the bunk. They are for the hot water heater and what used to be the battery charger. The tricky thing is they both only function when hooked up to shore power. I¡¯ve now changed over to a 3000w charger/inverter and lithium batteries so I¡¯d like these outlets to work with the inverter OR shore power as may be available.
I¡¯ve tried to trace down the split between these outlets and the rest of the boat to no avail. Does anyone have an idea or schematic or likewise boat that was modified? With my current setup I can now power everything on the hook and I even have enough to run the hot water heater off the lithium instead of cranking an engine.
Thanks for all the ideas and help over the years.
J. Walls
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Re: Delamination on bimini hard top
#380s2
Hi all? The factory started producing hard top bimini¡¯s in late 2008 as mine was ordered in 2007 and I picked it up at the factory in late 2008? Cheers Theo Cats Paw 380 S2 hull 540
On Wednesday, September 18, 2019, 8:27 am, rick dilger via Groups.Io <rickdilger@...> wrote:
FYI, my 2011 L380 had a factory installed hardtop. Part of the deal when I ordered the boat.
Cheers, Rick Arkaydes On Tuesday, September 17, 2019, 10:25 pm, nigiil via Groups.Io <nigiil@...> wrote: Hi Martin, Is your hardtop from the factory? I've only seen soft tops on L380s unless somebody built them. If it's been built aftermarket, which I think is likely, it's construction could be with a divicell foam or a honeycomb. The honeycomb approach is lighter but known for trapping water and causing delamination. Only way to know is exploratory with a drill or saw. Also, you mentioned it has nonskid on it? You can make a silicone form out of the existing nonskid and use it to repair the gelcoat where you worked on it. If it were me, I'd probably cut the underside open, replace core if necessary, and dry it all out. Then I would use epoxy to glue the piece(s) I removed back in, fiberglass tape over the seams and fair it out. I'd finish by painting the entire underside so it's all one color. This approach would leave the existing gelcoat and nonskid on the top untouched so getting a color match or nonskid pattern would be avoided. I've never heard of using gorilla glue but I suspect that it might make doing the repair over correctly later a pita. Also, if you have honeycomb core it may just fill that up. Let us know what you end up doing and how it comes out.?
Richard Hake SV Mai Tai 1995 L37 TPI
On Sep 17, 2019 7:14 AM, "Martin Eckhardt via Groups.Io" <martin_eckhardt@...> wrote: Thanks guys! I guess I?ll try the Gorilla approach first, if that doesn't work I might cut it all away (I?d rather not).?
Fair winds, Martin
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Re: Delamination on bimini hard top
#380s2
FYI, my 2011 L380 had a factory installed hardtop. Part of the deal when I ordered the boat.
Cheers, Rick
On Tuesday, September 17, 2019, 10:25 pm, nigiil via Groups.Io <nigiil@...> wrote: Hi Martin, Is your hardtop from the factory? I've only seen soft tops on L380s unless somebody built them. If it's been built aftermarket, which I think is likely, it's construction could be with a divicell foam or a honeycomb. The honeycomb approach is lighter but known for trapping water and causing delamination. Only way to know is exploratory with a drill or saw. Also, you mentioned it has nonskid on it? You can make a silicone form out of the existing nonskid and use it to repair the gelcoat where you worked on it. If it were me, I'd probably cut the underside open, replace core if necessary, and dry it all out. Then I would use epoxy to glue the piece(s) I removed back in, fiberglass tape over the seams and fair it out. I'd finish by painting the entire underside so it's all one color. This approach would leave the existing gelcoat and nonskid on the top untouched so getting a color match or nonskid pattern would be avoided. I've never heard of using gorilla glue but I suspect that it might make doing the repair over correctly later a pita. Also, if you have honeycomb core it may just fill that up. Let us know what you end up doing and how it comes out.?
Richard Hake SV Mai Tai 1995 L37 TPI
On Sep 17, 2019 7:14 AM, "Martin Eckhardt via Groups.Io" <martin_eckhardt@...> wrote: Thanks guys! I guess I?ll try the Gorilla approach first, if that doesn't work I might cut it all away (I?d rather not).?
Fair winds, Martin
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Re: Delamination on bimini hard top
#380s2
Dedicated Marine has a hardtop for the 380 and 410 to bolt onto the existing frame. Excellent upgrade and worth the money. Located in Florida US. ? Steve in Solomons MD 410 S2 E ?
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of nigiil via Groups.Io
Sent: Tuesday, September 17, 2019 8:25 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [lagooncatowners] Delamination on bimini hard top #380s2 ? Is your hardtop from the factory? I've only seen soft tops on L380s unless somebody built them. If it's been built aftermarket, which I think is likely, it's construction could be with a divicell foam or a honeycomb. The honeycomb approach is lighter but known for trapping water and causing delamination. Only way to know is exploratory with a drill or saw. Also, you mentioned it has nonskid on it? You can make a silicone form out of the existing nonskid and use it to repair the gelcoat where you worked on it. If it were me, I'd probably cut the underside open, replace core if necessary, and dry it all out. Then I would use epoxy to glue the piece(s) I removed back in, fiberglass tape over the seams and fair it out. I'd finish by painting the entire underside so it's all one color. This approach would leave the existing gelcoat and nonskid on the top untouched so getting a color match or nonskid pattern would be avoided. I've never heard of using gorilla glue but I suspect that it might make doing the repair over correctly later a pita. Also, if you have honeycomb core it may just fill that up. Let us know what you end up doing and how it comes out.? ? ? On Sep 17, 2019 7:14 AM, "Martin Eckhardt via Groups.Io" <martin_eckhardt@...> wrote: Thanks guys! I guess I?ll try the Gorilla approach first, if that doesn't work I might cut it all away (I?d rather not).?
Fair winds, Martin
?
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