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Any authorized Lagoon dealer can get them for you. You can find the closest one on the Lagoon website. The part number for the full height aluminum version is 119804 up to hull #246 and after that, it's part number 130285. I got this info off the??site. We're on a 421 as well and I just ordered a short set.?

Damon and Marcie

SV Wanderlust L421

On Feb 22, 2018, at 7:24 AM, jbinbi@... [lagooncatowners] <lagooncatowners@...> wrote:

I purchased a new 380 in Oct 15. While sailing it back from the delivered point, I was aghast to look at the boom and see NO outhaul on the clew! I was worried about the sail creeping forward. Reading forums, I found most Lagoon owners do not adjust the outhaul much. My dealer recommended that I just tie a length of line between the end of the boom and the clew. So I took some leftover polypro line I happened to have lying around and went back and forth 3x. So far, still working, though a rigger suggested replacing with a short length of something a bit better. I agree, and will do that this spring.

If you do this, it is impossible to actually pull the sail tight when the sail is down in the bag, there is just too much weight on it. I would also not recommend trying to do this while sailing of course. The trick is to find a windless day when at anchor or mooring so the boom won't sweep you over and the sail isn't filled with wind.

The rigger said if you want to get fancy, put a small block on one end and mount a cleat on the boom, then you would have the ability to adjust. I just tied the rope to itself with some crazy set of knots (passed the line thru the cringle in the clew and the loop at the end of the boom back and forth and then tied it. Will post a pic if I can find one.?

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On 21 Feb 2018, at 15:45, paul_storr@... [lagooncatowners] <lagooncatowners@...> wrote:

Hi

On my 380 I have tried all kind of sail trimning but the thing just continues at the same speed. Of ?course real wrong trim slows down the boat. Especially in +25 knots there is very little change and I only adjust trim to reduce the load on sails and rig. In lighter winds the gennacker makes a huge difference but normally the fun stops at 8 knots unless some waves helps. With wind from behind we use our 95 m2 heavy duty spinakker (from a monohull) and with + 20 knots relative wind the thing suddenly wakes up and we have been enjoyin 10 to 12 knots in full control.

The 380 will never be a racer but can tease a lot of monohulls if you care, which one never can resist.

Paul on In-Joy

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Hi,

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Thank you all for your help with the question about using low friction rings in place of blicks at the reefing lines for the mainsail on my 380.

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Another question that has come up is the lack of controls on the mainsail.

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When I am not on the cat, I sail a more performance driven mono dayboat which obviously has a lot more sail controls, so that is the context of my thinking.

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I note that one of the comments that Lagoon put out with their article on sail trim, is the issue of main sail outhaul. They suggest easing the outhaul by 10-15 cms at times. (¡°The mainsail foot must be slightly slackened in light air (including when sailing before the wind or reaching) so as to obtain a 10- to 15-cm ¡°foot sag¡±). However, I do not have an outhaul as such as it is set and not adjustable.

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I also don¡¯t have a Cunningham which would overcome the issue of stretch on the main halyard.

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What do other owners do? have you added these lines to your main? If so, any advice would be greatly received so that I can make any changes before I get the sails back from the sailmaker.

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Thanks all

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Regards

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Marc

Anywhere on anything that has an electrical connection to the saildrive. However I've gotta say do some more research because you can overprotect aluminium by having too much zinc. I am not an expert in this but 30 years ago I owned a 54ft aluminium ketch which had signs of corrosion so I had to find a solution. Worse corrosion occurs when you hook up to shore power and you effectively connect any thing that is earthed on your boat with the earths on other vessels that are hook up to shore power. In this situation if your boat has earthed aluminum parts and the other boat is steel or has earthed steel, the aluminum in your boat protects the steel on all the earthed boats in the marina. You effectively have an electrical connection between aluminum and steel, which now serve as an anode and cathode sitting in an electrolyte, salt water. The salinity of the water has an effect an also the number of steel boats or marina that may have stray currents due to faulty electrical connections.

The solution for an aluminum boat was an isolation transformer or an electrical current passing through a platinum electrode on the bottom of the boat, this current protected the boat. There were other methods using zinc anodes but they were messy due to the fact that the situation changed with the environment that the boat sat in also the qualtity of the zinc was questionable.

At the time Quicksilver had a similar system using a current through an electrode attached to an aluminum leg in the water. I would research that.

Happy Days

Frank Aquilina

On 21 Feb 2018, at 07:18, Marc Duffy marcone35@... [lagooncatowners] <lagooncatowners@...> wrote:

I've been advised to hang a high content magnesium zinc from each of my sail drives due to the salt/brackish water condition in my canal.?

Does anyone know where the attach points are on the sail drives please??

My advisor suggests internal to the engine compartment.

thank you

I've been advised to hang a high content magnesium zinc from each of my sail drives due to the salt/brackish water condition in my canal.?

Does anyone know where the attach points are on the sail drives please??

My advisor suggests internal to the engine compartment.

thank you