|
Replacing lower rudder bearing (bushing) Lagoon 380
#380s2
Hello
I just replaced the lower rudder bushings on our L 380 from 2008. The starboard rudder had gotten a little loose (just a few millimeter of play) and I thought it would be a good idea to do both rudders at the same time. This has to be done about every 10 years of what I understand. I was helped a lot by reading:?.?This is a L 410 and there seems to be one difference to a L 380 when taking the rudder out (or Ben just does not mention all steps). Apart from what Ben explains, the 380 has 2 pins (or bolts) that keep the rudder from falling out. One sits right above the upper bearing, through a stainless steel ring and the rudder (and is secured with small screws at the end). The other one sits at the top, inside the collar that connects to the steering system. I found it easiest to remove the lower one first, then drop the rudder some 30 cm and hammer out the upper pin next. Then the rudder is free.? Putting things back together again was not that easy. Here is what I did and learned: - The bushing on the rudder that had gotten play was actually moving freely inside the hull, thus it moved with the rudder. It had scraped its surroundings a bit and the opening was slightly wider than the other side, where the bushing was still sitting nicely. So after taking the bushing out and cleaning the inside of the opening, I put a few layers of epoxy on the inside in order to reduce the opening slightly and also to protect the fibreglass. The bushing on the other side was relatively easy to remove with a knife and small screw driver between the bushing and the hull. After cleaning the left overs of the previous glue, I put 2 layers of epoxy on this side as well, just to protect the fibreglass.? - Then I followed the steps that are outlined in the original Beneteau document, see attached. This document was not easy to find online, but it helped me a lot. The two mentioned materials: MEC (= MEK) and PMS 60 are quite exotic and not easy to find in this part of the world (Panama). Instead of the MEC one can use Acetone as far as I understand. Concerning the PMS 60 the chief engineer of the marina here contacted Beneteau and found out that one can use 5200 as well (I used the one by "3M" that takes 7 days to cure).? - Putting things back together according to the document (which does not give any details) I made one mistake: I put the washer on (the flat delrin ring that sits between the rudder and the hull). The problem was that the bushing did not go all the way up in to the hole. The washer in place made it impossible to push the bushing all the way up. Lesson learned... I took everything apart again and started over.? - This time I left the washer away and was thus able to push the bushing all the way in. I secured it from gliding down again using some wooden shims. When the glue has dried, the rudder has to be taken out again in order to put the washer in place. Then everything gets reassembled again.? - During this whole process I gladly discovered that the upper bushing (made out of delrin) was still fine and I left it in place. How it can be removed is still a bit of a mystery to me. Comments are welcome! -?Of what I understand from the Beneteau document there is not supposed to be any grease in between the lower bushing and the bearing. However, there was grease on the upper bearing. This I renewed, using normal marine grease.? - It?s possible to do the whole process alone, just make sure you secure the rudder properly from underneath before undoing the pins.? - I had ordered the parts at Lagoon (upper bushing, lower bushing, washer) beforehand, while being still in Europe, because I was not sure what was actually wrong with the rudder. It took 2 months (and about 800 Euros) to get the pieces. - Next time I would probably get the pieces custom made, I would guess that is much cheaper and quicker. Here are the details: The upper bushing is made out of delrin.? - The inner diameter is 8,5 cm - The upper "neck" is 1,54 cm thick and 1,3 cm high - The thickness of the "wall" of the bushing is 1,24 cm (thus the "neck" is 0,3 cm thicker) - The whole thing, including the "neck" is 8,06 cm high The lower bushing is made out of bronze. - It is 6,0 cm high - The inner diameter is 11,0 cm (when the crack is pushed close). The inner diameter is 11,1 cm when the crack is 0,3 cm open - The thickness of the bronze is 0,26 cm - There is an inside layer of (what it seems) teflon. Not sure how important that is, because the whole busing is the one that's supposed to be worn down eventually.? The washer is made out of delrin. - The outer diameter is 14,0 cm - The inner diameter is 11,3 cm - The diameter of the material is 1,4 cm - The washer is 0,5 cm high (= thick) And while I was already at it and measuring, i measured the rudders: - The entire height is 189 cm - The rudder as such (the part that steers the boat) is about 79 x 56 cm - The lower bearing (stainless steel) is 11,0 cm in diameter and 6,0 cm in height - Between the lower bearing and the upper bearing are 50,0 cm - The upper bearing (stainless steel) is 8,0 cm in diameter and 6,0 cm in height - Between the upper bearing and the top are 47,0 cm - The shaft is 7,0 cm thick I hope this helps others doing the same. If you discover any faults, please send me a feedback.? Best of luck, Martin, PACHAMAMA (hull 519) |
|
Re: Cross-beam attaching part
I replaced my entire crossbeam, dolphin striker, and attachment brackets on my 410 catamaran last summer at Zahnisers in Solomon’s Island in the Chesapeake. I left the old crossbeam there with the end pieces which are welded to the beam. US Spars fabricated the new crossbeam from the specifications they had on file. My new crossbeam is different in cross section so the end brackets are totally different. If you want more details send me an email.
From Byrne on Lagoon 410 Spray |
|
Cross-beam attaching part
Hi Lagooners,
connecting part between SB hull and beam (see attached image) on our 380 is cracked. I would like to replace\fix it but was unable to find any information on web. Does somebody knows the part #, or has blueprint for the part ? Any tips for the repair job itself ? Thanks a lot |
|
Hull Stress Cracks
Hello
I just hauled my 2004 Lagoon 43 PC for a paint job. I've just noticed for the first time that there appears to be many "stress cracks" running down the outside and stern of both hulls. Some extend below the waterline. The cracks sand smooth to touch fairly quickly, but can still be seen in the underlying fiberglass past the gelcoat. My shipyard says it looks like the fiberglass was laid down with too much resin, thus making the hull brittle. Anyone else with this problem? How did you handle it? Thanks, Chris Greene "Amphitrite " FRCNB43044G304 |
Byrne Falke
Rothim
Strawnies
Chris G
