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380 S2 Engine room covers falling apart #380s2

 

Hello
I just discovered in our 380 S2 (hull 519) that one of the engine room wooden ¡°covers¡± lost its foam layer. These are originally just glued on to the wooden plates. Our boat is 12 years old and the glue seems to be at the end of its life span. So one of the foam layers ended up on top of the port engine. Luckily, I discovered this before running the engine - which could have caused real trouble.

I am critical to those covering plates and we had them removed for about a year, but they take a lot of space if you store them elsewhere, so we put them back. To use the space created above them as storage space is crazy IMHO - because I want to be able to quickly get into the engine rooms at all times. The good thing about those covers are the noise reduction and the fact that they keep moist / small amounts of leaking water / dirt away from the engines.

I fixed all of the 6 covers with 2 screws with large rings/washers on each, drilling the screws right through the foam into the wood. The rings/washers hold the foam layer in place.


Because of the corona pandemic and the lockdown in Panama I did not have the chance to get bigger amounts of glue from a department store, and I like the safety the screws and washers provide more anyway.?


However, if anyone has dealt with this problem in another way - please reply to this post.?


Best regards?
Martin
PACHAMAMA


Re: 380 S2: Separating windlass from port engine #380s2

 

Thanks to everyone for all your valuable and helpful input!!
I finally found the relay on the left side of the port engine (green/white small ¡°box¡±) and did exactly what Paul Griffin describes, taking the windlass cables off the relay and grounding them at the engine mount. It works perfectly. Glad it was that easy - thanks to all your ideas and experience.?

Best greetings from Guna Yala (San Blas), Panama
Martin Eckhardt?
PACHAMAMA


A bit off topic (covid-19 and the summer season)

 

Hello everyone from Athens, Greece

I took the chance to make this post and addressing catamaran co-owners and charter companies who maybe read and participate in this great Group regarding the measurements that every country they belong to has taken to protect those businesses after the covid-19 virus wound in our industry.

As I mention I am writing from Athens, Greece. We own a small company with 2 catamarans and we provide day charters in the area.?
I and my colleagues are making plans and projections and the statistics are not that good. Our company oriented in the US customers seems that it is not going to have guests in the upcoming season due to all the mess caused by the virus in the United States.
On the other hand, the marina costs, maintenance, payrolls, office, loans, and general expenses keep running.
The government has only issued an allowance of 800 euros just for the employees and only for a month, without counting all the above costs the companies have to counter. There are also some ideas to subtract the number of passengers per boat to 1/3 for social distancing.
?
To sum up, I am really interested in learning how corresponding governments treat the local companies and maybe suggestions and your thoughts on how you think we should encounter the problems in the tourism industry for the next months and maybe years.

BR

Mike


Re: 380 S2: Separating windlass from port engine #380s2

 

The relay was on the negative, i just bypassed the relay by jumping the wires.

Serge thiffault
Lagoon 410S2 #156 Francesca

Sent


Re: 380 S2: Separating windlass from port engine #380s2

 

I took the windlass ground connection off the relay switch and grounded it directly to the engine mount with the rest of the wiring ground connections.

The relay switch is still there because it controls the engine room blowers (which actually makes sense - i.e. to only have those run when the engine is on).

The relay switch is marked w/ the internal circuitry, but you can test it by grounding out each wire and testing the windlass with engine off to find the windlass ground wire.


Re: 380 S2: Separating windlass from port engine #380s2

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

So what exactly did you do to bypass the relay? I am assuming this is a NO relay, so did you just jump the wires to bridge the relay? Is the relay marked for the terminals?


Re: 380 S2: Separating windlass from port engine #380s2

 

For me the relay was in the Port engine compartment, on the right when facing the engine. A small green/white square with wires out of the bottom, sorry no pictures since i removed the darn thing.

Serge thiffault
Lagoon 410S2 #156 Francesca


Re: 380 S2: Separating windlass from port engine #380s2

 

The relay circuit was on our port engine on our 2018 Lagoon 380 (Hull #822).

Here is a picture. We had a wire that had separated on the relay circuit, resulting in windlass not functioning. After much troubleshooting was finally able to trace it back to the relay and grounded it so now the windlass works when the engine is off (a safety improvement everyone should make IMO).

Frustrating that Lagoon just does this at the factory but doesn't include any info in the manual about it. I assume they do so at the behest of charter customers who don't want charter guests burning up batteries using the windlass without having engines running.

Attached is a picture of our relay circuit:


Re: Flexifold prop issue

 

Hi Rex,
The shaft nut should be as tight as practicable and should not affect the feathering.? It was the shaft the blade pivots on and the cap screw that is used to retain it.? I just checked the Flexofold website both 2 and 3 blade are similar in function.
The installation drawings in step 5 refer to pivot pin (8) and Locking Screw (9).? Step 6 is where there could be the issue.
If over torqued they bind and will not move freely.? Mine were over torqued on installation.? I had no where to haul so I fixed the problem in Esperanza, Vieques SVI while at anchor. I did have the advantage of a dive tank and I just backed off the bolts slightly until the blades moved easily.? It didn't take long.? They had a loctite compound on them but it was only a slight movement just to allow them free movement.? they were slightly stiff and would not feather fully.? we used a GoPro underway to check the correct operation.? perhaps that is an option for you to see what is happening.? Good luck and let us know how you resolved it.? it may be good to know for the future
Rick


Re: Flexifold prop issue

 

Cheers Mike?
?


Re: 380 S2: Separating windlass from port engine #380s2

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

I know the breaker is there under the bunk by the battery handle/switch. Is the relay there as well? You need to bypass the relay, not the breaker.


Re: Flexifold prop issue

 

Thanks Dean... they did replace as they were... I watched them!?
Cheers
Rex


Re: Flexifold prop issue

 

Thanks Mike... yes very much son but the Yanmar dealing Who did the replacement and was well paid for it is being very evasive and doesn¡¯t want to know.

Cheers for your input
Rex


Re: Flexifold prop issue

 

Hi Baldrick

hey never too late for volunteered valuable very plausible advice on how to solve this problem, which still exists and which I am finding no one from Yanmar, which includes Flexifold, wants to know about or actually honour arranged appointments to view the problem and offer a solution....grrr!?


As I have eliminated all possible mechanical issues, ie gear selection linkages and connections, damage or fouling of props, drive shaft issues, it will be down to something ¡®simple¡¯ and obscure which your suggested cure might very well be!?


You are referring to the central lock nut, I watched a vid on YouTube where he removes the prop and then replaces it and tightens that nut as hard as he could... but this is the one you are referring to??


I will need to lift the boat to do this so will put it to the Yanmar dealer who replaced the drives and see what he says.?

It was suggested it could be caused by the different gear ratios between the Sd 50 and the new sd60 sail drives...Any views on that????


I really appreciate the input Baldrick and will post when I have checked it out.?
Cheers and happy self isolating !?

Rex


Re: 380 S2: Separating windlass from port engine #380s2

 

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Scott,
Never really looked for it, didn¡¯t need to. ?If you just wire the thin black wire that goes to the solenoid to ground you will be good to go. ?You can test it to see if there is continuity between that black wire to the solenoid to a known ground point without the engine running. ?There shouldn¡¯t be. ?When you test it with the port engine running there should be...

I think I¡¯ve run across the relay in my travels through the bowels of the boat. ?I might be under the aft port bunk, there are a few there or it might be in the engine room.

Jerry


On Apr 20, 2020, at 7:12 AM, Scott Stuckey <scottbstuckey@...> wrote:

Jerry,
Where is the cutout relay on the 440? ?Port aft berth, engine or at the windlass control relay?
Thanks,

Scott
2007 Lagoon 440



Re: Flexifold prop issue

 

Hi

I have a 2008 Lagoon 440 that came with SD 50's and flexifold props. 6 or 7 years ago when the sd 60's came out I replaced the sd 50's. Never had a problem. Sounds like to nedd to recheck your installation.

Mike
Captiva Lagoon 440


Re: 380 S2: Separating windlass from port engine #380s2

 

Jerry,
Where is the cutout relay on the 440? ?Port aft berth, engine or at the windlass control relay?
Thanks,

Scott
2007 Lagoon 440


Re: 380 S2: Separating windlass from port engine #380s2

 

The trip switches and relays for the windlass on our 380 are under the port bunk - in the cupboard under the bunk.


Re: Flexifold prop issue

 

Hi Rex,
I may be a little late with the reply but I had an issue with my 2 blade Flexofolds on a L380, turned out the socket head cap screws were over torqued an not allowing the blades to feather or fully extend in reverse.? just loosened them a little and no more problems.
Hope you have it sorted by now
Regrds
Baldrick


Re: 380 S2: Separating windlass from port engine #380s2

 

Just curious, what are your safety reasons for wanting this?