Thanks guys! I guess I?ll try the Gorilla approach first, if that doesn't work I might cut it all away (I?d rather not).?
Fair winds, Martin

Thanks so far everyone for your good suggestions!
I don’t know if the core is foam or wood or pure fibreglass. Does anyone know? It’s a L380 S2 Premium from 2008, hull no. 519. I’d also rather like to leave the existing gelcoat on, drill holes and glue it back on and fill the crack with new gelcoat after opening them up a bit. We’re in Colombia and there are neither a lot of experts, nor a big variety of material and the postal service does not exist anymore, so it’s hard to get stuff shipped. But I saw the gorilla glue somewhere. Might drill holes, inject, plug the holes, put pressure and then fill the remainders with gelcoat. Could that work? Any other suggestions are very welcome. Thanks a lot!
Best regards?
Martin?

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Not very resistant to UV (sunlight) so paint or cover in some way

--
-Rob H
Pacific NW, USA
No sailing vessel at the moment

A friend of mine used gorilla glue on his tpi 37 to inject in the holes. Gorilla glue needs the moisture and absorbs the moisture to harden. It turned out real nice.?

I am guessing there is a foam core. That being said, sounds like the foam has water intrusion and the foam has broke down. Repair depends upon if the core is still wet or not. If it is, a couple of drain holes on the bottom will help drain. Some might use a vacuum to suck water out. But need to stop water intrusion, duct tape over cracks? Or some other tape that won't leave residue. Some duct tapes will. It may take awhile for foam to dry (weeks to a month). AFter the foam has dried you have two choices in my opinion. One is the foam injection that will use the moisture to cure the foam. I have not used the foam process but was chastised by an expert that foam was the only way to go even though he had never used it.

The second is fill with epoxy. My preference is to use Git-Rot for the epoxy. I purchased on line for $50 per quart. I was able to fill my deck from underneath but in your case, you will drill 3/16" holes every 2-3 inches in the soft area on top. I used syringes from West Marine (20 for $20). Mix the Git Rot and pour into syringes to inject into holes. The syringes should be snug into hole to "pressurize" the holes. AS you inject, you will feel the pressure building inside, I like to inject the lowest hole until the epoxy comes out of the next higher hole. This will allow the Git Rot to fill all the voids inside. Each hole will take multiple injections.So, basically you will have syringes in all the holes in that area. It will look like your boat is getting acupuncture. It will get pretty warm to touch. After each hole is pressurized, quickly take the syringe out and put duct tape over hole and screw in a short wood ( 1/2" by #12 I think?) screw to keep pressure in side. Then take scuba weight belts and apply over soft area to allow the epoxy(Git Rot) to adhere to outer skin over night. The next day check for other soft areas. Take wood screws out and finish filling holes with epoxy. Sand smooth and cover with nonskid. I am not a big fan of cutting out simply because I don't have the finesse to make it look good on a curved surface. The cracks will need to be cleaned(ground out) and filled with epoxy. then faired before applying nonskid. Using this method, I was able to fill several voids in my balsa deck in two hours. About 20 minutes per void. Much faster than cutting out and redoing the outer skin.
Another option is to call Dedicated Marine the most likely builder of the hard top and ask them what to do.
This advise is worth exactly what you paid for it. There are many ways to do this project and I have had success with this method.

I used this method from below the deck because the deck was recently painted and the painter forgot to repair the soft spots. It was very easy and clean. I watched a guy cut out from below and repair, A very messy job. My method was very clean. The Git Rot cleans with vinegar. And fast!!

Hello everyone?

We have delamination issues as well as cracks on the hardtop bimini of our 380 S2 from 2008. They were there when we bought the boat 20 months ago and we didn’t find the time to repair them yet... Of course the delamination got bigger....

There are 2 roundish spots of about 30 cm diameter, one at the corner of the acrylic sliding “window” and one about 50 cm away in the middle of the bimini. The upper part of the structure (maybe “just” the Gelcoat, but who knows?) is slightly “bubbly” and can be pressed down. Between those two places (and on the edge to the acrylic window) there are a few cracks and holes (obviously the previous owner let the boom crash on the hard top). The damage obviously goes deeper as we had a leakage of rainwater into one of the lamps at the downside of the hardtop....

I thought about the recommended repair method of drilling small holes every 2 cm and injecting epoxy and then applying weight. BUT the epoxy would create a mess on the diamond structure of the gelcoat and would do nothing to the cracks or the leaks.?

So, I am thinking about cutting the whole area out (about a square meter) until I reach “healthy fibreglass”, then build this up again and paint it.?

Any my ideas or comments on this approach? Other ideas/experiences?

I don’t have the material or skills to rebuild the diamond structure of the gelcoat and honestly this doesn’t matter too much, as long as it’s tight, white and non-slippery. The upper layer (paint, gelcoat) is what I am very uncertain about. I have heard about Kiwi Grip as a top layer. Not sure if I can get this here (we are in Colombia). Is there anything else that would do the job? Some 2 component paint that we can mix some sand in, for example?!

Any thoughts or comments are welcome to solve this issue.

Thanks in advance!

Martin?
L380 S2 (2008) PACHAMAMA?

I had the same issue in my L400. Tried brute force, soaking in a salt removal solution & several hours in an ultra sonic cleaner. Tried pulling it apart, but “axels” are SS in an alloy housing. Spoke to Spinlock who stated they are not repairable. So ended up replacing them. Not cheap. Suggest some Tefgel when installing. So keep them well washed out with fresh water at frequent intervals. ?

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Suggest start with copious amounts of warm water to dissolve / wash away salt build up inside.

re lubricant, various opinions,

some like WD40 oily things, work really well shorter term, but these can attract further dirt as slightly sticky.

Some prefer silicon based, not oily, but need to use infinitesiliy small amount (using rags to prevent over spray etc etc) as any silicon on a boat seems to spread far and wide for years and makes anything within metres really really slippy.

Some of mine, the aluminium had corroded inside and expanded, so jammed them, initially can clean/scrape, worse case (not likely looking at your photos) replace (mine had corroded so far to bend the plate cheeks.

Kingsley L470

We had to get it from Lagoon in France. Contact them with hull number

Find an agent of Lagoon and ask him to get a copy from the company.
Give him the HIN (hull identification number)
Usually stamped on the outside of the starboard stern.

Find an agent of Lagoon and ask him to get a copy from the company.
Give him the HIN (hull identification number)
Usually stamped on the outside of the starboard stern.

--

The bolts through the sheaves are there only to keep the structure in place and are not supposed to create pressure on the sheaves. There should be free space and the sheaves are suppised to be free to move upward on the bolt for a mm or so. So maybe someone drew the bolts too tight.
Otherwise, all you need to do is to clean sheaves and bolts with wd40 and or water to remove any matter that foules the movemement. I do not see a need to remove the whole contraption unless the bolts are bent, rather unlikely.

Hi. Can anyone assist. I require a completed EU Certificate/Declaration of Conformity for my 380 Lagoon. My vessel is a charter version 2004 model and apparently it is a standard declaration used for all L380. I require this certificate to allow me to get my vessel into limited survey in? Australia.The Declaration of Conformity should accompany all vessels sold. Unfortunately I don't have this document. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks?

The return fitting on the port fuel tank has a slight stain around it and the cabin smells like diesel. It is the small hose left of the big filler hose in the picture below. USA boat diesel is dyed red so the stain is pinkish. There was a fuel residue on top of the tank which has not returned since I cleaned it off. The fittings and hose clamp are tight. There are some prior issues on this forum with leaking fuel tanks but I think this is different — At least I hope the tank is not cracked. Does anyone have any advise on how to tell where the leak is and if the plastic can be repaired?

thanks
Alex
SV Seachelle
Lagoon 400 S2 #434

Some of the sheaves in the deck organizer turning blocks on our Lagoon 400 are very stiff or frozen completely. To fix this problem it looks like I will have to completely remove and disassemble them — the bolts through the sheaves extend through the deck. Does anyone have any advice on how to fix this problem. To completely remove them do I need to remove the ceiling panels in the saloon?

Thanks
Alex
SV Seachelle
Lagoon 400 S2 #434

Thanks everyone, that is really helpful.?
Martin

Hi all,

Anybody had tried change the door locks to one with key?

I need to lock the cabin doors from outside and i am searching for ones with key.

If someone had found door locks with key, please let me know.

Thanks
Jo?o?