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RoHS question
开云体育Ah yes, I did mean I still use the leaded stuff, maybe I should stop chewing it. ? And at least in Australian, you can buy it easily enough and it’s $10/roll cheaper than lead-free, so yay for us I guess. ? As far as RoHS, Wikipedia has a reasonable write-up: .? Huh, there’s 10 things on the list now. ? Weighing by individual materials eliminates cheating.? Say your cable is a metre long, weighs 1000 grams and the solder joints have 2 grams of lead, at 0.2% it’s double the limit.? No problems, just make the cable twice as long.? You still have the same amount of leaded solder but now 2 grams of lead in a 2000 gram cable is 0.1%, so it passes!? Everyone happy! ? Under RoHs both cables have 40% lead in the solder, so you need to sort that out. ? They don’t make the limit 0% because easier said than done, plus a tiny little bit of lead in steel & brass makes it easier to machine. ? Tony ? ? ? From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Roy via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, 27 October 2020 1:06 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [homebrewpcbs] RoHS question ? I think you meant to type, "leaded" instead of, "lead free" - your 2nd link is to classic 60-40 Sn-Pb solder. Some of the early Pb free solders were genuinely unpleasant to work with, enough so that whoever did the plumbing in my house chose to silver braze everything instead of using whatever Pb free soft solder was available locally. |
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I think you meant to type, "leaded" instead of, "lead free" - your 2nd link is to classic 60-40 Sn-Pb solder. Some of the early Pb free solders were genuinely unpleasant to work with, enough so that whoever did the plumbing in my house chose to silver braze everything instead of using whatever Pb free soft solder was available locally.
Roy |
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It doesn't really matter what the item is, the lead (or whatever) percentage
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is applied to each material used. So the cable is made of copper, steel, solder, a few different plastics and each of these needs to have under 0.1% lead. Kinda makes sense when you think about it, although documenting it would be "fun". For hobbyist it doesn't matter much what you use. Lead-free solders seem to have improved, I was at my soldering something at a friend house and only after I'd finished I noticed the solder was lead free. I think, like many things, the "lead free is terrible!!" rantings and raving are from people just repeating what they've read on the internet. Pretty sure it was this stuff: , tin with 0.7% copper. Whatever it was, it worked like normal lead-free, I'm sure there are alloys that are terrible. That said, I use lead free because I've still got heaps of it left. And besides, why switch when it's still cheaper: Tony -----Original Message-----math actually based for the allowable limit of lead in the solder. And last butnot least, I have never ever used no lead solder.the same or do the have choices using differing amounts of the ingredients to |
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I bought some USB cables and noticed the RoHS sticker on them and never really read much about the standard so I have a few questions. It states something about 0.1% lead is allowed but in the case of cables, does that take in the whole weight of the cable?? Or on a circuit board, how is the math actually based for the allowable limit of lead in the solder. And last but not least, I have never ever used no lead solder. Is is a good idea to buy some for future reference in case of reworking something that followed the standard? And if yes, are all no lead solders the same or do the have choices using differing amounts of the ingredients to make it?
Thanks Dave |