开云体育

Maybe some thin heat resistant tape over the edges to
protect the drum. Is that 1/4 Oz board from Digikey?

Look for printers that say something like "true
straight-through paper path".

Or dig through the piles of laser printers showing up
now in thrift stores and just start hacking.

Steve

PS I'm hijacking this discussion to the Homebrew PCBs
list!



--- Rick Talbert <rixtalbert@...> wrote:

Dear List

I made a post about a board that is 1/4 OZ. copper a
while back . It is .031
inches thick. To thick to go thru the Laser though!
But , for some reason
,,,, like protecting the copper on the FR-104 grade
board ,there is a super
thin layer of copper that ya peel off before using.
This is the stuff you
might like. The sheets come in 8-1/2 by 11".
hate to see one of these hang up though!
And ironing it on the fiberglass is a great idea,,
but would the toner stay
on the printed copper?

Who Knows,,

RIX


-----Original Message-----
From: owner-picbasic-l@...
[mailto:owner-picbasic-l@...]On Behalf Of
victor Faria
Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2001 7:06 PM
To: picbasic-l@...
Subject: Re: PICBASIC-L direct PCB board printing


HI,Jessey
I don't think that there is anything to modify!
because I'm sure you can run card stock through a
laser printer so I think
that a thin sheet of copper would also run
through.(I think)
the only problem that I see is would the copper
being a conductor do damage
to the laser?
but now I'm thinking are there not fancy stationary
out there with gold and
silver colors,(shinny) and wouldn't this have the
same effect on the laser?
I'm just thinking out aloud.
any thoughts????
regards
victor
----- Original Message -----
From: "jessey Montgomery"
<jessey_montgomery@...>
To: <picbasic-l@...>
Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2001 7:47 PM
Subject: Re: PICBASIC-L direct PCB board printing


Hello Victor, I am presently shoping for a laser
printer and before I read
about the comments made to the picbasic group on the
subject I was concerned
about the dots per square inch of the printer (dpi)
or resolution. I've
always printed out on regular paper (using a desk
jet printer) then taken
the page to a printing shop to copy the art work on
to a transparency and
have had varying results with different shops, I
always ask to have it
copied with a laser photo copier or printer. I've
never asked the shops what
dpi their copiers were. I've always used Avery Laser
Transparencies as I
heard they were the best for circuit boards, any
comments from others as to
which ones are the best? The laser printers on the
market are 600 dpi for
the cheapest ones and 1200 dpi for the more
expensive ones. Does anyone here
know what dpi is best and will a 600 dpi do the job
ok?

Now you've sparked my interest about modifying a
laser printer to print
directly on to a circuit board or to use a thin
copper sheet as you would
the paper. Are there any more people here that know
anything more about this
subject? I would like to try something a little
innovated even if I have to
modify the new printer I buy. Thanks.......Jessey
----- Original Message -----
From: "victor Faria" <victorf@...>
To: <picbasic-l@...>
Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2001 1:51 PM
Subject: Re: PICBASIC-L direct PCB board printing


Rudie,were almost on the same page here!!!
what I mean is copper sheet.
print the sheet in the laser printer like you would
a sheet of paper.
then laminate the copper to the fiberglass board.
after lamination is complete go ahead and etch.
am I making any sense???
I would try it But I don't have a laser printer.
now does anyone know if the printer would print on
the copper sheet???
people talk about 1oz copper how many mil would
this be?
thanks
regards
Victor Faria
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rudie" <rudie@...>
To: <picbasic-l@...>
Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2001 10:41 AM
Subject: Re: PICBASIC-L direct PCB board printing


Have been toying with the same idea. I found "Copper
foil" at an art shop -
10x10cm very thin foil sheets. Haven't tried it on
the printer yet.

1Once through the printer, I was contemplating
electroplating it - which
will increase the track thickness. The tracks should
build up between the
toner. A quick brush with some etch resist on the
track side and a couple of
seconds in the etch bath should then theoretically
etch the thin copper foil
and leave the tracks alone - or actually the board
should be taken out
before the etchant starts to eat into the tracks. It
can then be stuck to
some base with those spray glue picture framers use.
I'm mainly looking at
SMD boards, but is should also work for
through-hole.

No idea if this will work.

Rudie
----- Original Message -----
From: "victor Faria" <victorf@...>
To: <picbasic-l@...>
Sent: 06 December 2001 12:48
Subject: Re: PICBASIC-L direct PCB board printing


HEY,PEOPLE I just got an idea!!!
if I"m off base here please take it easy on the
heat!!!:-).
for pc boards rather than buying pcboards say .062.
suppose you just buy the copper I don't know the
thickness I'm assuming it
will be about 5mil then rather then transfer to
copper with paper how about
you run the copper in the laser printer?????
or will this ruin the laser???
so you would print on the copper then just affix the
copper to the board .
again I don't know the procedure for this.
but I'm sure some one will.
regards
Victor Faria
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gilberto Almazan"
<gilbertofelipe@...>
To: <picbasic-l@...>
Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2001 5:17 PM
Subject: RE: PICBASIC-L direct PCB board printing


hi, i make my own PCB?s with the tonner of a laser
printer, its easy and
cheaper (but you need practice). You only need a
photo paper (like the hp
paper), an iron and a good soap and a laser printer,
thats all.

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I wonder if toner would make a good solder mask, used
this way? Obviously you can't coat the whole board,
but just leaving it on the traces and cleaning it off
the pads could be a great idea.

Hmm... another use for toner. Toner is carbon and
plastic, and therefore maybe at least somewhat
conductive. Perhaps some laid down across some traces
could act as a humidity detector. With a reference one
sealed in a box for temperature compensation.

Steve Greenfield

--- Raymond Choat <rc@...> wrote:

And after printing directly to board and doing the
acid thing, leave the
printing on the board for surface protection.

----- Original Message -----
From: "jessey Montgomery"
<jessey_montgomery@...>
To: <picbasic-l@...>
Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2001 3:47 PM
Subject: Re: PICBASIC-L direct PCB board printing

Hello Victor, I am presently shoping for a laser

printer and before I read

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I wonder if toner would make a good solder mask, used
this way? Obviously you can't coat the whole board,
but just leaving it on the traces and cleaning it off
the pads could be a great idea.

No way.... It would melt right away and make a mess..

Best regards,
Alexandre Guimaraes