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--- milwiron@... wrote: Great idea. Anyone here have some and some etchant and want to try it and report back here? Nothing fancy, just coat a scrap of board and then scratch the

Steve, In most software you can set the width of the milled area or Isolation. When using a plotter, there will be less drag if the point is fine. Hey Steve! Thanks for this conference! I

This might be a wierd idea, just say so if it is- How about a pointed bit used in your PCB milling machine, with the laquer coating and a bath in the etchant after? That guarantees a wider swath but

Hi Denny, The acid will also stay strong because there is less copper etched when doing isolation. I use the Think and Tinker bits. They only last a little while longer if you hit just the

Hi Steve, I feel by using the Scratch and Etch method, pen speed and flow will be out of the picture. Most software will allow the outlining to be done. I don't acid etch here! But I got

I'm finding John's idea pretty intriguing. Just to take the brainstorming another step: One big problem with PCB routers is tool life and their cost. But using a CNC router with a cutter to just cut

At 08:12 AM 04/05/2002 -0800, you wrote in part: Very interesting idea. You could use layout fluid for metal working. Most are a lacquer type base and scratch very cleanly since that's exactly what

Yep, far too long to expose, and the problem of "blooming". UV laser, anyone? That sounds do-able! It would just require modifying a pen with one of those carbide point marking pens. I think you

Hi, Nobody liked my light on a plotter idea. I was told the light source would have to move too slow. The board would take way to long. Ok, I use Mechanical Etching bits myself. But what if you

Hi Dave, Yeah, my kids are grown up! In fact, the oldest is in grad school, and borrowed my "eraser", and my PIC programmer! I got my lamp in '77, so I think it's paid for it's self! Your box

Gotta chirp in the middle here ;-] I purchased a metal tool box, a germ light, and a electric timer a few years back. I wired the whole thing up inside so that when close the lamp is located just

Hi Hugh, Yes, quite true! I'd forgotten about that! and I'm with you on the Altair's too. I have a pair still stashed in the garage. I've used my lamp for erasing EPROMS for years, and recently

The stuff we used to use was called "Circuit Black" but I don't remember the manufacturer's name. Check your local Silk Screen supply house - they should be able to search that name for you. If I

Actualy the germicidal lamp tube is made of quartz not glass and thats why the cost so much. Glass in general is not very transparent to UV. Had mine since the days of th PROM burner for the Altair

there was a recent thread on aus.electronics USENET group about this. search subject "UV Light Box Plans" in http://groups.google.com/groups?num=25&hl=en&group=aus.electronics&safe=off&start=25 For

1)You can't use the HP pen's they aren't waterproof. Others have suggested using modified Staedler waterproof pens. 2) The plotter speed can be explicitly controlled in software. 3) Mount the

Hi. What if, you took a surplus plotter. Put a sensitized board on the plotter in a dark room. Replaced the pen with a focused light source that turned on and off with the pen-up and

Hello crankorgan, Thursday, April 04, 2002, 2:57:25 PM, you wrote: c> Hi, c> Years ago I tried to locate a UV light to erase Eproms. I c> got alot of bad info. The Blacklight for posters is

Hello Tim, Thursday, April 04, 2002, 5:25:55 PM, you wrote: TG> Even better is to get some real flourescent UV bulbs. I got mine from a TG> local lighting supply house. I just looked for light bulbs

You may be able to get uv lamps from catering suppliers as we use them in uv fly killers. Ian