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I want to make a PCB with BGA ICs (up to 0.5mm pitch) DIY. Is that even possible ?

It will be interesting to see the achievable result. I think there will be limitation on resolution since there is a layer between the LCD and the PCB. For high resolution normally the

I modified several laser printers to deposit toner directly on copperclad. It worked well but was a bit cumbersome at times and I had to drag out this big printer every time I wanted to use it. For

UV lamps and a good artwork are essential if more than one PCB is needed for a mini production run. It is a decade or two since I played with it, but there is a big difference between printer

I don't see the point of that. UV lamps are cheap adn so are printer transparencies. My cheap inkjet can do 4800x2400DPI and good photoresist is cheap. Compared to that, 3D printer is very crappy

There are a number of similar YouTube videos of this. I'm currently experimenting with doing the same thing, but in a different way. I bought a 9.7 inch 2K lcd with an HDMI board that I can use as a

Anyone tried this? I feel foolish for not thinking of it. The fastest way to make crisp PCBs at home! | | | | | | | | | | | The fastest way to make crisp PCBs at home! | |

I drill all ,y boards that have 100+ holes on CNC. All boards I design in KiCAD from where I generate drill files. As I mainly do single sided boards, I mirror output drill file over Y axis, and, as

Howard, A few more details are needed. Only you know what you have, EAGLE and cnc is a bit sparse. How about a photo or two of the CNC machine, make and model, servo controller make & model, and

Hi Vesselin, I found it as surplus at a hamfest. Some of the electronics parts places down here in Australia sell boards coated with photoresist but I've never used any. Regards, Morris

Hi Morris, Where you order that clad from? Thanks, Vesselin

My thanks to all those who responded. The suggestion of a soak in sodium hydroxide solution was the solution. At first I thought that didn't work because it didn't appear to dissolve the resist but

The copper is high enough electrical conductivity and the water high enough thermal conductivity that hot spots are never a problem (have atleast 1mm or more depth on top of the pcb). Arcing due to

Hi all I have got hold of a cnc to use for drilling pcb's that I make with Eagle 6.4 pro but need some help with software and best way to set it up, would also like to be able to cut out the

Received from russell shaw at 10/14/2021 04:36 UTC: I don't recommend putting a copper clad PCB into an operating microwave oven. You'll have a real mess if you get local hot spots that cause the

In my process, developing uses sodium carbonate (washing soda) and *developed* resist is removed with sodium hydroxide (lye). So if your film is undeveloped, you might try the sodium carbonate

There's no plastic coating. Not much joy from cold sodium hydroxide either but I'll? try it hot tomorrow. Morris

It's likely to have a plastic film layer to protect it from air. Lift a corner of it using the stickiness of some stick tape, to get it to peel. Heat sodium hydroxide NaOH (garage/concrete floor

Received from Morris Odell at 10/13/2021 23:31 UTC: If you try methylene chloride, just use it outdoors where it will work as well as it does inside, but you don't have to breathe it. I suggest

Dear Morris, You might try "whatever is used to remove an already developed photoresist." (I don't know if that would be a dilute NaOH solution or not). Sincerely, Kim Kemmerly