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Mark, All good info. I have all the parts ( https://www.whizoo.com/ ) to build a reflow oven but also have too many irons in the fire as usual. Once that is ready and I use stencils for applying

I use mostly 0805 parts, though I do occasionally use 0603. I use 1206 when I want to run a trace between the pads, easier than using a jumper. I use a lighted magnifier rather than a scope. Get the

Harvey, ? I have seen that method used a lot ion YouTube videos. Looks easy enough. I have a nice set of tweezers in my kit.

I find using kapton tape to stick the big square chips (eg TQFP, LQFP etc) down the best - it's too easy to move the chip out of alignment while trying to solder the first pin (especially the smaller

I have seen some cheater component home made tools here on the forum before. I guess everyone has their own way and all of them likely work. Thanks

Harvey, ? But you are advanced and I am noob. :-) But I can deal with the 1206 size and they are about 1/8" long at 0.120". Lots of projects in the future and still have to put together my reflow

I tin one pad for small parts, touch the pad with the soldering iron tip an use it for a stop.? Then with tweezers, slide the chip onto the pad.? Then solder the other end, being aware that the heat

Good point Sam. I just need to make a large enough list so I can save on shipping and not be buying 100 here and 100 there.

I find that 1206 resistors are good to start with, as well as 1206 parts.? They're not the cheapest (805 and 603 are frequently cheaper). I use SO outline parts and not TSSOP.? I use metcal

Check Mouser Electronics. They usually have what you need and you can get it much faster than eBay and you will know exactly what you are getting! Sam Reaves ARS W3OHM Owner and Moderator of: LeCroy

For the smaller components I hold them down with a toothpick and tack a couple leads , then solder them

Ok, just a followup on my looking for physically large sized SMT resistors. I researched yet again and realize that the physical size is based on the max watt rating, which I already knew (but

replies interleaved from me too. :) ---I am so glad everybody agrees on this no lead solder being something we don't have to use.

Jim, ? Well that is perfect. No worries, be happy. :-) What more could one ask for. Thanks for the info. Dave

Dave, I doubt you need to worry about tin whiskers as a hobbyist... not due to the solder or to tin plated traces or parts. I consider the lower ability to "wet" the connection and higher required

replies interleaved I avoid it, nasty working on older PC boards that are more fragile.? Iron is too hot and soldering can take too long depending on the lead free solder. I buy in bulk, the cost

Harvey, ? Interesting link on the tin whiskers. And a weird phenomena.

Tony, ? I tinned some of my first home made pcb's but never again. And the boards I ordered are of the ENIG variety. No rocket science comes out of my hobby. :)

Jim, ? I read about tin whiskers a long time ago but didn't much worry about them as I wasn't making pcb's etc then. I just read about them before you brought them up. I came to the conclusion that

Tony, ? I get the idea now. I was just making sure I didn't need any lead-free stuff. And I am just a hobbyist and still somewhat a noob at that when it comes to electronics. But I sure have learned