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I guess the other obvious place to look for these lamps is the supplier you use to purchase other PCB-making goods (board, developer, etc.). The suppliers I use in the UK for such materials (RS

Hi John, What you want is called a "germicidal lamp". It is a clear glass fluorescent lamp. Mine is about 14 inches long. I bought it and a holder for about $20 (quite some time ago). Ask for one

It takes only low UV to expose the photoresist used for PCBs. So a blacklight will work, however, anything that gives off low UV will work. Like plant grow lights, those slightly bluish lights you

Even better is to get some real flourescent UV bulbs. I got mine from a local lighting supply house. I just looked for light bulbs in the yellow pages. The bulbs are F20T12/BL and cost me about $10

--- johnman9146 <johnman@...> wrote: Please check out the bookmarks section. I went to a lot of trouble to organize it. There are links there for all kinds of methods, and as far as etch

--- johnman9146 wrote: -snip- It has been a while since I did photoresist, but I used to use an incandescent plant grow light. I suspect the fluorescent grow lights give off more UV. Steve

Hi, Years ago I tried to locate a UV light to erase Eproms. I got alot of bad info. The Blacklight for posters is not the right wavelength. UV bulbs look like a clear florescent light bulb. They

Several of you have written of the benefits and good quality that can be had by using the photoresist copper clad boards. You now have my interest. I have some of the raw materials to attempt this

field to also best. from an various good job they because

I already own one. I tried using it before, but didn't like the results. I even modified a couple of pens as I thought this might be an easy way to "draw" boards to etch. I have owned this

like the HP7475a which I own, I've written some code to also use it as an XY pen-plotter.

There was a company in West Hartford CT which was pioneering a piezo ink-jet head with extremely fine "resolution" -- Accent Color Sciences (now bankrupt). There were a couple patents filed by them

johnman9146 wrote:

From: JanRwl@... All I can say is that I've never had a problem with the Kyocera laser printer I use, even SMD fingers seem to come out properly. Suck it and see is the best way to be sure of

There's good printers and crappy printers. Crappy: lasers, many inkjets. Good: epson stylus colour. I did various comparisons. The main thing with the epson ones is that the genuine epson inkjet

That kind of misses the point. I am looking to see if anyone knows of a suitable etch resist ink, and/or a suitable soldermask ink. If I do decide to go your way and do the transparancy method with

JanRwl@... wrote: I use an epson stylus 400 colour inkjet and genuine epson transparency. It's easy to do 8mil tracks/spacing, and there's no dimensional problems. There's usually a printer

In general inkjet printers give far superior dimensional stability than laser printers. The repeatability and accuracy across an A4 page is under 0.1mm on my Epson 660 (i.e. better than what my eyes

When you print to a laser printer, the paper gets heated causing the paper to expand. The moisture also gets driven out, which I believe causes the paper to shrink. Net expansion probably depends on

--- JanRwl@... wrote: I used to use a Canon 610, it was not symmetrical and printed slightly smaller than it was supposed to. Haven't tested my Canon 6000 to any high degree of precision, I seem