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Hey everyone, I've been searching high and low over the internet for a B200 service manual, and I'm not coming up with anything. Does anyone have a scan of this or know where one is available? Much thanks! Best, Alex

I have an XK3c with the lower manual and hard cases available for free - local pickup only. It is working BUT, if the volume is up more than halfway, it clips. I don’t have the skills to try and fix it and I no longer need it for gigging. I have gigged with it about 20 times. Cosmetically it is in good condition. it is located in Massachusetts near the NH border. Email me if interested: jqriff@...

Hi hammond peeps, Anyone know of anyone who would like a free Hammond in New Jersey? I saw this on a organ group I'm in on facebook: https://www.facebook.com/groups/pipe.organ/permalink/3441204289261307/?comment_id=3441449705903432&reply_comment_id=3441872975861105 "My grandmother passed away and the family is emptying her house. She had this 1967 Hammond L 103. It was tuned [Gesine notes: he meant serviced] 3 years ago. And is fully functional. (Obviously I’m aware technology is much better These days) But is there a market/need for this anywhere? Someone that would want / use it? Otherwise it is going to end up in a dumpster, which I wouldn’t want to do if this would be useful to someone."

I have a Hammond C3 with pedals which worked fine when I last tried it. I have 2 x Leslie 145 cabinets and one PR tone cabinet as well. Not sure if the cabinet is a PR40 Having moved house I no longer have space for any of these and so I need to dispose of them very quickly. They are all in storage in Twickenham London. The Hammond wheels as are the two Leslie cabinets for easy moving. I really do not want these to end up in the council tip, so if you have a home for these to go for. Any offers considered. I can send photos of cabinets . The Hammond is just a C3.

Hello, Novice hammond person here, and I'm hoping to get advice on repairing my B3 which has suffered extensive foam damage. I have read with interest the many threads on the issue here, and am gradually building up my understanding. However, some points of confusion remain with me, and I hope the experts here might be able to fill in the blanks for me. My B3 began losing tones at a greater rate over the last while, so I eventually removed the manual, and took off the bottom cover to ascertain if there was damage (I had already tested the tonewheel generator and associated wiring, all of which was good). I found extensive damage due to corrosion of resistance wires, caused by degrading foam. I reckon in or around 50 wires are damaged. My understanding (so far) is that the wires from each key (nine of them) each have different resistances, based on the length of the wire - I have found a chart by Carsten Meyer detailing the resistance tapering of these wires. I don't think it will be feasible for me to repair these wires, so I was thinking of going down the route of using very very thin, maybe 38AWG laquered copper wire, together with 1% 1/8 watt resistors to replace, instead of repair, the broken resistance wires. However, I'm unsure if I am reading the schematic, and the tapering chart correctly. If I take the last key on the lower manual - key 61 for example, the tapering chart says that the 9 key contacts connect to 13,30,13,25 etc, etc. - my understanding that these numbers are the terminal block on the underside of the manual. Is this correct? Essentially what I'm asking here is, say I have a broken resistance wire on the 3rd of the 9 key contacts on key 61, that I need to solder a wire between this 3rd contact, together with a resistor of 100ohm to terminal block no. 13. This brings up some further queries from my understanding. 1. Which direction do I count the 9 key contacts in - is the top contact (when the manual is in the playing position) no.1 or no.9? 2. Is my understanding of reading the tapering chart correct? 3. Where might be the best place to put the resistor - bury it in the free space in the plastic holder where there are very little resistance wires, or solder it to the terminal block? Reading the B3 service manual schematic, my understanding is that the drawbars have a very small length of resistance wire on their contact, but the drawbar feeds the "9 contacts under typical adjust key", with "9 contacts under typical preset key" and additionally "9 contacts under typical playing key". I understand the playing and preset key, but what is the "adjust key"? Finally, I read that using isopropyl alcohol with cotton buds might be a good way to remove foam from the resistance wires - if I do so, will the alcohol potentially strip the insulation from good wires thus causing further issues/shorts? Thanks very much in advance for any input to these questions - and forgive me if anything I have stated is incorrect - as I said, I am a complete novice to the hammonds, but I hope slowly and surely to build up some knowledge, and be able to save my B3. Kind regards Ger

Folks, My A-100 has become essentially unplayable due to generator bleed and crosstalk. She is long overdue for a recap. Main output has ceased also (Leslie hookup still works) and bottom preset keys won't hold. The local repair place I had planned to take her to has lost their Hammond Tech with no replacement in sight. Can anyone suggest a Hammond Tech in Denver Metro? This is really too lovely an organ to trust to me doing the work. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Regards, Paul Denver, CO

Sorry, I should have changed the subject. I forgot. Darn! That happens more and more. On 9/11/2020 12:48 PM, Rich Reid wrote: DO any of you know where I can find instructions on manual replacement? I have service manuals and I have found quite a few youtube videos but have not found any on how to remove a manual. (B2, C2,C3,A-143) thanks Rich Reid 208-861-9263 From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Scott Hawthorn Sent: Friday, September 11, 2020 11:25 AM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [hammondzone] Advice on manual resistance wires and repairs of dead tones Yep, manual replacement is far easier and done often. On 9/11/2020 9:41 AM, Dave Bishop wrote: Ger: I don’t know if you are located in NL or in the US, but I just saw an A100 on Craigslist here for $400 and an H100 for $150. At those prices you may be happier just buying one and transplanting parts. On Sep 11, 2020, at 10:24 AM, ogallachoir@... wrote: ?Christoph, Thank you for the info - appreciate it. I should have looked closer at the preset wiring - I forgot about the A#/B being wired to the "preset key". As I say, just getting to grips with the thing, and a lot to learn. Maybe I'm thinking wrong, but to me, replacing a wire, not having to trace it through the loom etc., would be easier than repair soldering it. Possibly not in every case, but so far a number of the broken resistance wires have disintegrated, losing anything from a few mm, to 2-3 cm of wire, which might be difficult to replace without unduly affecting the overall resistance of the run. You are correct about the tracing - a DMM will indeed work out the solder tags - now that I know they correspond to the tonewheel frequencies, which I can use the tapering chart to match to a key. Thank you again for your time. Regards Ger -- rich reid video services boise, id 208-861-9263

from a 2014 performance by the Zombies at San Francisco's Stern Grove Festival. As much as this song is a bit of a relic, that Hammond sounds as relevant as ever. :) https://youtu.be/5ZxP1Gt5Lio?t=814 Enjoy!

Gday folks, I've got a customer with a hammond elegante with problems.. the top manual presets aren't all working - the reverse keys check out ok continuity wise, but only about three of them work, & only a few of the piston presets work. All of the lower manual presets work ok. I've got a copy of the service manual, but man, this thing is a beast & I'm wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction of where to look. thanks in advance, tim.

Hello, I have a hammond autovari 64 drum computer sitting on top of the hammond b200 organ. recently the orange switch with which you can turn on or of the autovari option broke off. I can’t seem to find a spare part anywhere on the net. This results into a two-part question: 1. did i miss a source for a spare part? anyone knows a way to get one? 2. could i actually 3d print the part and is there a 3d STL model available somewhere, or anyone with design abilities able to design it? (i might try design it myself, but i’m no expert) thanks for any pointers! Kind Regards, Willem Kossen

Hi All I am rebuilding my Leslie 251 amplifier Does anyone happen to have a component layout diagram (not circuit diagram or schematic I have that) for the Leslie 251 amp? I can work out where everything goes from the circuit diagram but it takes me ages. A component layout such as this one for the AO28 preamp would help a lot. many thanks Robin http://www.captain-foldback.com/Hammond_sub/schematics/ao28_under.gif

I have an M3 (ser: 91239, c. 1958) and an M-101 (ser: 62537, c. 1966) that need new homes ASAP. Good home more important than price! Both never gigged. Both working. On M-101, the 2nd B flat above middle C on upper manual will not depress - I haven't explored this. The M-101 has the less-likely-to-drift poly caps on the generator. Located in Picton, ON. David