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Hello to all, my 1st post so far: I live in Europe and own Hammond L-100 (European version of Porta-B). The motor is broken and my serviceman cannot find a 220 V version. Any ideas where to look for it?

Here's a question for the veterans, I'm afraid. I was fortunate enough to acquire a BCV this week - the earliest model I've ever owned or worked on. (This one built in late1938 I believe, judging from the oiling chart.) What's throwing me off is that there's a Main/Echo switch - NOT a halfmoon Echo switch for a Leslie but rather, one mounted right beside the chorus drawbar. It does not look to be an amateur rig-up. In addition there are two pigtail cables coming out of the bottom right of the organ, both terminating in sockets (F): one 5-pin, one 6-pin. I can only assume this was part of a Main/Echo setup for two Hammond tone cabinets. (By the time it came to me though it only had a single JR-20 with it.) Has anyone seen a setup like this before? If I'm right about the hookup I would like to connect the JR-20 and a PR-20 in tandem... with the chorus generator I think this setup might sound beautiful. Grateful for any advice.

Dear Group! I need your collective mechanical wisdom on removing broken screws. I am in the middle of fixing a Hammond RT3 that was in the shed for twenty years. Now, I have been fixing Hammonds for almost ten years now but I never had to replace broken coils in the generator. This organ had two open coils (51 and 56) which I could successfully replace with parts from a donor generator. Everything should be great but I broke two of the pickup holder screws during recalibration (I recapped the TG as well). They are in the middle row so access is very limited. No chance to access it with a normal or even a mini drill (Dremel is too big). One of them has nothing to hold on, it broke inside its hole. (Happy side note: I could do the calibration anyway because I could move them with a small chuck.) Even if I leave things as they are now, the organ is saved so it's a win but I would try to maintain the integrity of the organ if possible. So, what do you do with those? Thank you very much! Matyas Premecz

Hello Group I have spent considerable time on both switches in the combined assembly. (MAIN & ECHO) ...in situ ...not removed from the organ. I identified the switching mechanism action ...the sliding phenolic plate with the cavities which control contact being made. Pretty straight forward how the mechanism should function. Figuring out how best to tackle the problem of ensure the make/break conditions are working I have found really difficult ....and to-date, unsuccessful. Considering Chris' warning of how to "bend/re-bend" these "springs" as this is a very delicate process, was an understatement. I took the switches out of the circuits (electrically) to use a meter to identify when contact was making and breaking and spend many hours playing with the "bending" process. I got results quite quickly, but per Chris's warning it was very easy to over-correct (over-bend) .....and then getting back to a functioning position even more difficult. But the problem turned out to be that once I was able to get to a functioning position .....when I came back to the organ, almost any period of time later (day, week, month) ....the problem(s) returned .....as if the spring position had gone back to an incorrect position ....and now the same original or similar problem was back. I spent some time trying to clean the contacts. This proved even harder. Using contact cleaner didn't make any distinguishable change. As of today, the "ECHO" switch is almost perfect. The only problem with "ECHO" is when pushing the organ console Leslie tabs (Upper & Lower), the signal to the "Echo" is stopped. With these two tabs "UP", the external 147 is singing away beautifully. These two tabs down and silence. It certainly wasn't like this before and these two tabs should not be affecting anything to the ECHO circuit as this is an "external" speaker. Just to explain this situation, if playing with the main speaker only, and then switching over to the external speaker, and the "Leslie UPPER & LOWER" tabs were already applied ...switching to the ECHO would result in silence ....which of course is wrong. This was not the case when I had checked and adjusted the springs a month ago. What "was" working previously now is not working. On a separate problem, with the "MAIN" active, I now have the main speaker "over-driving". The signal is clipping ....literally for everything ....regardless of volume pedal. I have come to the conclusion that this switch module needs to come off the organ and the switching spring mechanisms reset to what they are supposed to be .....which I really have no idea. There needs to be a "gap" of some size for these switches to function properly. Is the gap supposed to be 1mm, 0.5mm, 0.3mm .....0.1mm....? I have no idea. The sliding plate with the pockets for the switch detents might be the first clue as to the correct gap, but it is impossible to measure this pocket depth .....I've tried. I have a small personal home shop (manual lathe/mill/CNC lathe/...) ...and all sorts of metrology equipment, which a finger dial might be only tool to reach inside to this area ....but this pocket feature is buried too far inside to measure. I have come to the conclusion, these switches need to be serviced by someone who has the technical specs and the means to make adjustments and test the "fix", such that they are functioning properly ...permanently. Doing so on a bench would be the best way to do this. Is there any such person I can send this assembly to, to do such a task? There is a bank of five switches: 1) Volume Soft 2) Main Only 3) Echo Only 4) Reverb I 5) Reverb II ...on the one pivot shaft. I can cut this shaft easily on either side of the MAIN/ECHO switches ....otherwise it appears a major disassembly procedure is required to pull the entire tabs assembly up to access this one pivot shaft. Attached is a photo with some markings specific to the shaft and mounting bolts for the switching mechanism. This is where the "Hammond Experts" can chime in with their experience/knowledge. As clearly seen, these switch modules ...all of them ....are riv

Hi, I've seen different types of vibrato scanners in otherwise similar organs: My TTR-100 has a self starting motor, it's scanner is of the same pan type as in consoles from B-2, C-2 etc. on, but mounted at the opposite generator end (where the big consoles would have their start motor). My TTR-200 and T-200 have basically the same generator, but with a drum scanner mounted next to the self starting motor. As the delay lines in these organs appear to be the same, I think both scanner types show indentical capacitance values between the rotor and the stator plates. Am I correct? Best regards!

Hello @ all, does anyone know per chance how the manual contacts of a C-2 are wired internally? Is there an individual peace of resistance wire from each contact point to the related terminal, or is there kind of a chain, consisting of wire peaces that jump between the contacts, and finally to the terminal strip? Best regards!

As for the load resistor Chris advised,the working amp doesn't seem to have one,just wanted to point that out. Regards, John

Gentlemen; I recently installed a rebuild kit in the 22H amp because the owner said there was a loud hum from the amp. Upon completion I tried the amp and it was very quiet and running well. A few days later the irate owner called to say it was still humming. I had him bring it back and I hooked it up to find it was running nice and quiet as when it left the first time. I began to ask questions and discovered he was trying to use it with an 1147 Leslie control box which of course is incompatible. I rewired the plug on the Leslie amp to make it compatible with the box (not my first choice) at which time he took it home and said it was still humming. He claims the box works fine with his 147 so I must have missed something but I haven't been able to figure out what. Any ideas? Warmest regards, John

Hey guys, could use a little help from the Forum. I've added a line out to an E-312 for a friend, but I'm having a weird issue. I wired it at the power amp input (i.e., coming off the preamp and volume pedal), with an SPST switch to allow muting the internal speakers. The problem is that there's a little bleed-through - sounds like it's only going to the 8" speaker in the main channel. (Not the reverb speaker; the reverb tabs don't affect it.) For reference, the preamp signal goes to one terminal of the SPST so it can be interrupted; the other terminal carries the signal on an RCA pigtail cable and plugs back into the power amp normally. The shielding for both are connected to the ground on a 50K potentiometer. The signal for the output is picked up right off the SPST terminal; runs through a 4.7K resistor and a 10uF cap; then to the input of the 50K pot so it can be padded down. The output of the pot then obviously goes to the signal terminal on the 1/4" output jack. I can't get my head around how the signal is bleeding through to the internal speaker. It's quiet, but just audible enough to be annoying! Any thoughts?

I haven't posted in a while, but thought I'd tap into the expertise at hammondzone and request opinions on the selling price for a CV chop. I had the preamp rebuilt but it probably needs a new set of tubes. I have it wired for a 1/4" output running through an Arp tube preamp to a Motion Sound 145. Attached are a photo and mp3 of an organ trio recording. Any feedback would be appreciated. Steve Adams

Hi Gail. Mine is a low hum, typical of a power interference. But as initially pointed out, I had 8 seconds of "louder hum" when turning on the organ ...and then dropping off to an acceptable level after 8 seconds... on the 77. The 147 was the reverse because the tubes. I believe I will not be able to investigate this further until I get the speaker selector switches sorted out permanently because I have sheet metal removed in order to access these switches. You are back east, NY area I believe. No one that you of with Hammond knowledge. Have you tried to find anyone? You mentioned that you detected a change to the "hum" with the Celeste tab. Was there any one thing that happened that initiated the "hum" ...such as moving it to a different location? This may possibly be an "electronics" issue ...that any audio technician could work on. I'm sure a Hammond person could zero in on one of the channels as being suspect particularly when you mentioned the Celeste tab. The X77 manual has ALL the schematics in it including the latest versions. I think you mentioned you have it (145 pages-pdf). I think I mentioned this before, this may in fact be one amplifier. If a Hammond person could confirm this, then you could sent this one amp off for diagnosis and repair .....or a Hammond person might be able to suggest a couple of things to try. I believe you said you had tried a few things. Sounds like you would be willing to participate up to a point. Just some thoughts to get you going. Now on to my switches. Geoff, thanks for your email about ways to "adjust" the contacts. Chris had offered a method as well. I have found these "springs" to be very soft. This means they can be bent very easily by rubbing them in a certain way without trying to actually bend them. But as Chris recommended "be very careful". The "Echo Only" switch is readily accessible at the top terminals. I have disconnected all these five wires at the top to take the switches out of the cct. and checked each one. All were functioning as expected, except for the switch position with the arrow. For some reason this reading would NOT disconnect. There was always continuity regardless of the switch position. I have looked everywhere around the top area for any add'l wires/connections and see nothing "extra". I cannot see the bottom area very well. There are a number of add'l wires around the bottom, but they should not have anything to do with the testing done on the "top side" continuity testing. Chris is well aware of these switches, but the question is,"is there some kind of "logic" on this one switch location that requires it to be "closed" in both positions? I have searched through the pdf manual and found how the "top" terminals should be connected. I have also found a wiring diagram on page 125 of the pdf manual. It's called: This one page is confusing if you're not a Hammond person. It appears to offer the wiring information to the bottom terminals. There is a single wire connecting the five terminals together providing a common on one side of the "Main Only" switch., which has me believe this terminal group is the bottom of the switch ...but that's just a guess. It could be that the view of the tabs showing lettering is a view from the top and the view without lettering is the bottom view of the tabs/switch (?) I have also come across the same situation of continuity NOT being broken on one of the switch positions on the "Main Only " tab as well. So perhaps the simplest of questions is should ALL switches demonstrate both open and closed contact conditions on both "Echo" and "Main" switches? Thanks to all Wayne On Tuesday, February 21, 2023 at 08:55:03 AM PST, Gail Wrighter via groups.io <gwrighte@...> wrote: Is your speaker hum a high or low pitch? Mine has a high pitch which I don't seem to get rid of. Very annoying. On Tuesday, February 14, 2023 at 08:51:37 PM EST, Wayne Tarling via groups.io <tarlingw@...> wrote: Well everything went reasonably well. TWG running very quiet. Manuals functioning ....pedals not. I opened up the console base panel, which had not b

Unfortunately I haven't had any success with this switch combination. I have applied a switch cleaner without any success. I have found that there is very little contact pressure on these switches to begin with. I came up with a way to attempt to "clean" the contact surfaces in addition to just "wetting" the surfaces with a cleaner. I have found a business card (0.26mm) that has a "rough surface" (as opposed to a glossy card) and absorbs cleaner freely. Cut it up (shaped) to be able to slip between the contacts (when open), then closed the switch, soaked the card with cleaner, and wiggled it around, trying to rub the mating surfaces. I got the manuals to work better, but not the pedals. There is no way to actually "see" the condition of the contact surfaces. Many questions arise: 1) is there any corrosion? 2) is there any contamination of any type? 3) how much contact is actually taking place on each of the five "springs"? 4) are each of the five "springs" providing exactly (or close) the same amount of contact pressure? 5) "which" spring or springs are NOT making contact? It is the last point that has me thinking it might be a prudent step to remove these switches from the circuit and test for continuity to be able to know which one(s) are contacting which are not in order to know which to work on. Thoughts? Is there a better way to check or clean? Having looked at the switch assembly, I believe I can remove the entire assembly and put in on the bench. It will be a fair bit of work, but very doable. What do you think is the best way to proceed? On Thursday, February 16, 2023 at 10:38:06 AM PST, Wayne Tarling via groups.io <tarlingw@...> wrote: Got it ..thanks. Now I can see the very obvious "gap" at the contact point as well. On Thursday, February 16, 2023 at 10:23:53 AM PST, Chris Clifton <clifton.christopher@...> wrote: I've just got this switch assembly from an L-100 out of my loft. If you very gently press where my screwdriver is, that pushes the spring below the actuator inwards. That makes the part of the spring above the actuator move outwards. The normal range of movement is quite small, a millimetre or so. You only need to change the position of the spring by a fraction of that to make a difference. On 16/02/2023 17:57, Chris Clifton wrote: Yes, the clear plastic part is what actuates the contacts, the springs (1) in your photo. The contacts open when the dimple in the spring moves into the cavity in the actuator. When the actuator is moved so that the dimple in the spring is on the land between cavities, this pushes the spring outwards to make contact with the fixed contact (3) in your photo. What I have found from experience is that if a switch doesn't make good contact after treatment with switch cleaner, pressing the narrow part of the contact spring slightly inwards with the tip of a small screwdriver causes the end of the spring to move outwards, making a better contact when switched on. A very small movement is usually sufficient. The actual contact point can be seen in your first photo. On the end of the spring (1) you can just see the ends of a pair of (palladium?) contact wires just under the fixed contact (3). These contacts are actually very similar to the key contacts in the manuals of Hammond organs. Small pieces of semi-precious metal wire spot welded onto the contacts. On 16/02/2023 16:47, Wayne Tarling via groups.io wrote: Thanks Chris ....now I can proceed with a little confidence ...but one simple question ....where are the actual contact points? I was able to take a few photos of what I believe is the contact area ..."from one side". There are two conditions, the first is "make" and the other is "break" (B) I have looked at the switch assembly for closely. The "outer boards" appear to be only a "non-conductive mounting method" for the terminals (4) on the outside and perhaps the "springs" (1 ?) which you referred to. The arrow marked "2" is the slider which has cavities milled into it. The arrow "1" shows what's called a detent feature, but in this case it is the method of pushing and releas

Is your speaker hum a high or low pitch? Mine has a high pitch which I don't seem to get rid of. Very annoying. On Tuesday, February 14, 2023 at 08:51:37 PM EST, Wayne Tarling via groups.io <tarlingw@...> wrote: Well everything went reasonably well. TWG running very quiet. Manuals functioning ....pedals not. I opened up the console base panel, which had not been touched yet. I disconnected the 77 Leslie previously as it had too much power hum for the stage I was at. (Didn't need to be listening to it) a) with the pedals not "responding", I thought I would try the "Pedal Bus-Bar Shifter". It has a slot on the end of the shaft as if for a screwdriver, but I thought I would try turning with my fingers first. To my surprise, the shaft moved very easily CW about 90° and not so much CCW ....so I left it re-positioned 90° CW. I tried the pedals ....no change. I went back to the speaker selector, "Main Only" and "Echo Only", just moving the switches, and immediately had the pedals working with "Echo Only" depressed. (147) I was quite surprised with this as this selector had been down previously with no response. I went through all the pedals and drawbars and everything was working. b) I powered down to connect the 77 Leslie. Powering back up got the 8-10 seconds of power hum, which subsided more significantly this time and put the "Main Only" speaker selector down and had full pedals (77) ....but I couldn't tell if the 147 was still functioning. Pushing the "Echo Only" tab down and found the 147 was now NOT working with the pedals. (It had been 20 seconds ago) Keyboards were fine (both). I ended up flicking this (Echo Only) switch up and down, getting mainly electrical contact clicking with no connection for the pedals. (????) Unfortunately, looking at the back of the organ, the entire bank of these switches are buried behind a metal box running full length. There are also a few screws on the top of this metal box, which can only be accessed with the top of the console removed. With much "playing around", I am getting to the summary that the "Echo Only" tab/switch (147) is either not making a proper contact for some reason ...perhaps just a cleaning needed? The "Main Only" switch, when down, (77) the manuals and pedals function fine ...as they should. I also note, that the power hum from the 77 Leslie is far less now. Pretty much quite acceptable ....as compared to the 147 which has a very too noticeable hum. I see some notes on "HUM" on page 20 & 24 of the Hammond Manual. I'll check that out later. Does anyone have any knowledge of accessibility to the "Echo Only" switch? I cannot see in behind. I am looking at page 20 and 21 that reference "removing the top. There is a section about removing the top: Is this the correct instruction? I'll have to look around for each of these details, (where these screws are) assuming this is the correct instruction. Then of course, I am hoping this switch can be tested for "make" condition ....and then can the contacts be cleaned or fixed? .....or do I have this all wrong and there is something else causing this problem? So far the problems have been principley mechanical in nature.

Thanks Chris ....now I can proceed with a little confidence ...but one simple question ....where are the actual contact points? I was able to take a few photos of what I believe is the contact area ..."from one side". There are two conditions, the first is "make" and the other is "break" (B) I have looked at the switch assembly for closely. The "outer boards" appear to be only a "non-conductive mounting method" for the terminals (4) on the outside and perhaps the "springs" (1 ?) which you referred to. The arrow marked "2" is the slider which has cavities milled into it. The arrow "1" shows what's called a detent feature, but in this case it is the method of pushing and releasing this "spring" which is making and breaking contact ...which is truly hard to see. Hence the second photo (B) which the detents are released into the milled pockets (seen in the first photo) ....and supposedly, the actual contact point "3" is broken (?). You can see a little bit of a "shadow line" as if there is now a "gap" in this condition. The third unmarked photo is just a crop of the photo above it, trying to get a closer "look" at this contact point area. I just need to know if I am correct, if this spot identified as "3" is in fact where the contact is (?) If correct, then I know where to concentrate on on the opposite side which is going to be tricky to reach. I might consider some way of using a thin, cleaner-soaked cloth to get between the contact points and move back and forth very delicately. This being said, do you know if there is any actual "point" per se ...or is this merely flat metal-to-metal contact? I note that it appears each contact may actually have TWO contact points. The "springs" appear to be "split" on the ends. I hope you can follow my "query". Sorry for the length. I just want to understand what's going on before I do anything. Thanks Wayne PS - is there a lube that should be used on these switches? I notice that the "Main Only" switch feels and sounds different from this "Echo Only switch. I can't see any different between the two (no obvious evidence of extra lube) On Thursday, February 16, 2023 at 03:16:33 AM PST, Chris Clifton <clifton.christopher@...> wrote: Those are the type of switch used in many Hammond models, E, L and M-100 series are the most common ones, and of course, your X-77. Switch cleaner is indeed the first course of action, and may well be sufficient to cure the problem. Don't even think about dismantling the switch assemblies, it shouldn't be necessary anyway. I have found that when switch cleaner doesn't work on these switches, it's usually because the moving leaf contact has bent slightly, and no longer presses hard enough against the fixed contact in the on position. I've found that by gently pressing the contact spring with a small screwdriver near the fixed end it's possible to bend the contact slightly and increase the contact pressure. I stress "gently", only a small bend is necessary, and it will be hard to undo if you over do it. On 15/02/2023 17:49, Wayne Tarling via groups.io wrote: Well, "guessing" the instructions as to which screws, etc., the entire top assembly comes right off very easily, exposing what needs to be exposed and the top metal cover, ditto. As it turns out, (as the experts already knew/know), these tabs/switches are all mechanical. They were not meant to be disassembled (all rivetted together), and looking at how the entire tab assemblies have been manufactured, Hammond has considered the possibility that things might fail, and figure out ways for fixes to be done. The only thing I cannot "see" clearly is the slide contact which is sandwiched between the boards. I am very reluctant to split this assembly apart. It may be far more logical to use a cleaner first and find out what the results will be. Any thoughts from anyone? For the non-experts, here are photos of these tab/switch assemblies. and the suspected tab: ----- Forwarded Message -----