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Mikw -- Ni-Cr alloys can be soldered with 95%-Tin, 5%-silver
(plumbing) solder. The melting point is c. 221?C. J. W. Harris Sta-
Brite flux - which is made for soldering stainless steel alloys -
works well for soldering Ni-Cr. Before soldering, clean the oxides
off of the Ni-Cr with coarse steel wool or carbide paper. Apply drop
of silver solder to tip of iron, touch drop to the joint to be
soldered, remove iron, apply drop of flux. The flux will sizzle -
which activates the flux. Re-apply soldering iron and the joint
should suck in the drop of silver-solder. The flux residue should be
removed with running warm water and a toothbrush. If the iron is
temperature controlled, 600?F seems to work well since higher temperatures break down the flux into useless brown goo.


On Sep 17, 2006, at 7:05 AM, Mike Sawyer wrote:

This has some redeeming value, but on another bulletin board, the
topic of using nichrome wire came up being used as a meter shunt.
someone chimed in that you can't solder to nichrome wire. Another
stated that you had to add enough solder to the joint to make it
mechanically stable. I was under the impression that you had to use
allot of heat, (like one of those large soldering irons you see in
the bargain boxes below the flea market tables), due to the heat
wicking properties of the wire. Am I correct in that assumption or
only half correct?
Mod-U-Lator,
Mike(y)
W3SLK

R L MEASURES, AG6K. 805-386-3734
r@...

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Mike,

No, the melting temperature raises when you use silver in a solder.
The more silver, the higher the melting temperature. Some has to be
used at red hot brazing temperatures. Thus in order for it to flow and
bond, it has to be at the correct temperature to do it.

Best,

Will

--- In ham_amplifiers@..., "Mike Sawyer" <w3slk@...>
wrote:

This has some redeeming value, but on another bulletin board, the

topic of using nichrome wire came up being used as a meter shunt.
someone chimed in that you can't solder to nichrome wire. Another
stated that you had to add enough solder to the joint to make it
mechanically stable. I was under the impression that you had to use
allot of heat, (like one of those large soldering irons you see in the
bargain boxes below the flea market tables), due to the heat wicking
properties of the wire. Am I correct in that assumption or only half
correct?

Mod-U-Lator,
Mike(y)
W3SLK

Mike,

No, the melting temperature raises when you use silver in a solder.
The more silver, the higher the melting temperature. Some has to be
used at red hot brazing temperatures. Thus in order for it to flow and
bond, it has to be at the correct temperature to do it.

Best,

Will

--- In ham_amplifiers@..., "Mike Sawyer" <w3slk@...>
wrote:

This has some redeeming value, but on another bulletin board, the

topic of using nichrome wire came up being used as a meter shunt.
someone chimed in that you can't solder to nichrome wire. Another
stated that you had to add enough solder to the joint to make it
mechanically stable. I was under the impression that you had to use
allot of heat, (like one of those large soldering irons you see in the
bargain boxes below the flea market tables), due to the heat wicking
properties of the wire. Am I correct in that assumption or only half
correct?

Mod-U-Lator,
Mike(y)
W3SLK

On Sep 19, 2006, at 7:40 PM, craxd wrote:

Mike,

No, the melting temperature raises when you use silver in a solder.

Silver melts at 960.8?C. Tin melts at 231.9?C. Silver-tin solder is
eutectic (the lowest possible melting point) at 221?C, when the
silver content is c. 6%. Less than 6% silver or more than 6% silver
raises the melting point.

The more silver, the higher the melting temperature. Some has to be
used at red hot brazing temperatures. Thus in order for it to flow and
bond, it has to be at the correct temperature to do it.

Best,

Will

--- In ham_amplifiers@..., "Mike Sawyer" <w3slk@...>
wrote:

This has some redeeming value, but on another bulletin board, the

topic of using nichrome wire came up being used as a meter shunt.
someone chimed in that you can't solder to nichrome wire. Another
stated that you had to add enough solder to the joint to make it
mechanically stable. I was under the impression that you had to use
allot of heat, (like one of those large soldering irons you see in the
bargain boxes below the flea market tables), due to the heat wicking
properties of the wire. Am I correct in that assumption or only half
correct?

Mod-U-Lator,
Mike(y)
W3SLK

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