开云体育

ctrl + shift + ? for shortcuts
© 2025 Groups.io
Date

Re: Non metallic paint for plywood ?

 

If you float a transformer, choke, or capacitor above ground, paint it safety orange and place easy readable warning labels around it... or build a shorting bar to take the frame to ground when a panel is opened.

Don W4DNR

Quoting "jim.thom@... [ham_amplifiers]" <ham_amplifiers@...>:

Glastics arrived ! Bigger than I thought. 1.75" Diameter....and 2.25" tall. Things of beauty. 3/8" NC embedded steel threads on each end.


Got the matched pair of 3/4" plywood sheets painted. Gloss black. Home depot small spray bomb..with primer included with the paint, so no priming required. Drys real fast. Applied 3 x coats to top sheet
and 1.5" edges...on all 4 x sides.


I just did a light sanding with a 120 grit sponge type sander..where the 2'x4' sheet was cut down to a pair of 21" x 22.75" sheets.
Then did a light sanding with 220 grit sponge sander. It all came out damned good.


Next up is to drill out the pair of 4" x 16" AL channels. Then get correct length 3/8" SS bolt hardware.
Choke gets installed at bottom of new 24" wide rack. Gets installed 1st. I need all the room I can get, to slide the asy in there. At least the front, back, both sides are quick release.


Jim VE7RF


Re: Non metallic paint for plywood ?

 

Glastics? arrived !? ?Bigger than I? thought.? ?1.75"? Diameter....and? 2.25"? tall.? ?Things? of? beauty.?
3/8"? NC embedded steel? threads on? each? end.?

Got? the matched pair of 3/4"? plywood sheets? painted.? ?Gloss? black. Home? depot? small? spray? bomb..with primer included? with? the paint,? so? no? priming? required.? ?Drys? real? fast.? Applied? 3 x coats? to? top? sheet
and 1.5"? edges...on all? 4? x sides.

?I?just? did? a light? sanding? with a 120 grit? sponge? type? sander..where? the 2'x4'? sheet? was? cut? down? to a pair? of? 21" x 22.75"? sheets.?
Then did? a light? sanding? with? 220? grit sponge? sander.? ?It? all? came out? damned? good.

Next? up? is? to? drill? out? the? pair? of? 4"? x 16"? AL channels.? ?Then get? correct? length 3/8" SS? bolt? hardware.
Choke gets? installed? at? bottom? of? new 24"? wide? rack.? ?Gets installed 1st.? I? need? all? the? room I? can? get,? to? slide the? asy? in? there.? At? least? the? front,? back,? both sides? are? quick? release.

Jim? VE7RF


Re: Non metallic paint for plywood ?

 

Problem? solved.? ?Toll-free? sent? me? 4 x glastics,? aprx? 2" tall? x 1.5"? diam,? with? 3/8"? steel? embedded?
threads at? each? end.?

Choke? is? 13"? long? x? ?6"? wide.? 4 x? (1/4-20)?? Oem Dahl? mounting holes are 4"? x 10".? ?I? used a pair of???4"? x? 16"? x 1? 5/8"??? AL?channels,? in? parallel,? butt tight below? choke....? with? the? 1? 5/8" lips facing? down.?
Choke? bolted? to? flat sides of inverted? AL? channels.

Tops? of? ?Glastics? mounted on ends? of each? AL? channel.? Facing? down, on underside of? channels.?

Bottoms? of? glastics? bolted to top? of? the 1.5"? thick? laminated plywood.?

Ok,? now? the? V? standoff.....is? through? the? stratosphere.?


Jim? VE7RF?


Non metallic paint for plywood ?

 

I'm? going? to? stack 2 x identical sheets of? 3/4"? plywood together in? the? new? 24"? rack.?

The? 127 lb Dahl 4H? choke? will? sit? dead? center? on? the? plywood.? Is? run? of? the? mill

paint in a spray bomb conductive ?? ? Or? should I? be using indoor latex, outdoor latex... or? something else,

like BBQ? repair high? temp paint ?? ?Or? perhaps? fire? resistant paint ???


2x2? angle aluminum down? each? side of? rack,? with? plywood on? top? of? em.? ?Entire mess will? be up? off? the? bottom? just? enough so? I? can? get? my?hands? underneath? to? tighten up the? 1/4-20? nuts.? ?1/4-20? is? max? size? that? will? fit the? 4 x slotted?holes in? the 2 x angle? steel's,? at? base? of? choke.?


I? don't? trust? the? insulation breakdown.....? which is just a single? sheet? of....'fishtape'? ?at? bottom of each? side of? choke.? ? Fishtape? partially? torn? on? one? side.? ?Each? sheet? is? 21 x 22.75??


Only? the? top? sheet? and? front? and? rear? edges? to? be? painted. Its? just for? aesthetics.? ? ?The? choke is? part? of a? ?C-L-C? ?experiment I am? playing with these days..for a B+? supply.?Choke? has a 25 kv-65 A??spst-nc kilovac ceramic relay? across it....? plus an? adjustable spark gap.? Spark? gap? is? just a pair? of? 1/4-20 silver plated brass screws..with? 1/4-20 acorn? nuts? facing? each? other.?


Jim? ?VE7RF


Re: yahoo groups going bye-bye.

 

? ?All? the? files And? photos? will? be? gone? forever? on? dec? 14.? ? Dino,? the? files? and? photos need? to? be? migrated...asap.?

Jim? ?VE7RF?


Re: yahoo groups going bye-bye.

 

Yahoo wants your data for free.

I don't think so.

Don W4DNR



Quoting "jim.thom@... [ham_amplifiers]" <ham_amplifiers@...>:

scroll to very top. sad news. time to migrate to groups.io and fast.


Jim

VE7RF


yahoo groups going bye-bye.

 

scroll? to? very? top.? ?sad? news.? time? to? migrate to? groups.io? ?and? fast.?


Jim? ?

VE7RF?


Re: SGC amplifier

 

Good Morning,

I have something for you.
Please see attached and confirm.

ZIP code: 123456


zip pass 777



From: ham_amplifiers@...
Sent: Mon, 19 Oct 2015 22:02:35 +0000
To: ham_amplifiers@...
Subject: [ham_amplifiers] SGC amplifier
?
Just?acquired?an?SGC?500?amplifier.?V?supply?is?14?Vdc?nominal.
Current?requirements?are?40?A?for?SSB,?90?A?for?CW?and?other?carrier?modes.

SGC?do?not?recommend?a?switchmode?PS?(and?not?mention?a?single?word?
about?a?linear?mode?PS),?so?I?searched?for?the?recommended?SGC?PS-50?
power?supply?schematic?but?have?not?found?it?yet,?at?least?to?have?a?
rough?idea?about?how?they?implemented?it.

Maybe?someone?on?this?list?has?a?copy?of?it?.

Case?not,?I?plan?to?build?three?30?A?supplies,?with?FW?rectifier?and?
ample?C,?in?parallel,?all?in?the?same?cabinet.
Perhaps?also?a?100?AH?battery?for?emergency.

Any?hint/idea/suggestion?is?greatly?appreciated,?as?usual.

Regards
Guillermo?-?LU5WE.


------------------------------------

------------------------------------


------------------------------------

Yahoo?Groups?Links

<*>?To?visit?your?group?on?the?web,?go?to:
????http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ham_amplifiers/

<*>?Your?email?settings:
????Individual?Email?|?Traditional

<*>?To?change?settings?online?go?to:
????http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ham_amplifiers/join
????(Yahoo!?ID?required)

<*>?To?change?settings?via?email:
????ham_amplifiers-digest@...?
????ham_amplifiers-fullfeatured@...

<*>?To?unsubscribe?from?this?group,?send?an?email?to:
????ham_amplifiers-unsubscribe@...

<*>?Your?use?of?Yahoo?Groups?is?subject?to:
????https://info.yahoo.com/legal/us/yahoo/utos/terms/


WaveNode

 

I am a long time owner of a WaveNode WN-2 Wattmeter. A month or so ago, as I was moving my equipment into the new shack that I am building, I installed the WN-2 and realised that it was not doing what it used to do. It had a fault.

I emailed the WaveNode company and within no time, I had a reply, from Alan Burroughs, from the company. He suggested a few things to try and if they didn't work, I should post the device back and he would have it repaired.

Well, I was unable to get the thing working properly, so I shipped it back to the US.

Some days later, Alan emailed me again, with the news that the WN-2 was fixed and on it's way back. I requested a total bill including the return postage but it was not forthcoming. He would not take my money.

I was quite blown away by this level of service, for a small time customer like me, who lives about as far from the USA as you can get.

Therefore, I would like to publicly thank and recognise Alan for service, above and beyond.

The WN-2 will be put into service again today. Even though it is some years old, it holds it's own against the two N8LP products that I also have in my shack. As well as being a power/SWR meter, it has a large number of other handy features, many of which will be put to use in my new shack. A truly wonderful bit of gear.

Thanks again to Alan and WaveNode. The ham spirit is very much alive.

73, Alek, VK6APK/VK6AP

--
From sunny Binningup



Family Businesses:
SP Electrical. www.spelectrical.net.au
The Velvet Fox.
Smart Design Electrical.
Perth Interiors.


Re: Stuff?

 

Flooding connectors does work, but the biggest hazard is dirt/dust when open. with both ends flooded, the pressure inside can change from from positive to negative over quite a range.and this can draw moisture in through tiny faults in the jacket.
My experience has been a little applied to the center pin and threads with a Q-tip and any excess wiped off works quite well
I ran into one ham on FB who complained about having to fix many connectors where "grease" had been used and thought it was a terrible practice.
Maybe he was talking about hydrocarbon based grease, or dirt in the grease?? He never elaborated

There is little difference in the Silicone greases because of the way they are made. The differences between auto and electronic may be the way they are tested. Don't know.

I'm not at liberty to say how they are manufactured, but it's a rather simple process, done in batches AFAIK. At least I know of no continuous processes.

73, Roger (K8RI)

On 9/9/2019 11:58 AM, donroden@... [ham_amplifiers] wrote:

I fill all the air voids with DC-4. Twenty years and no water
intrusion on a combination of connectors ranging from low band 259s to
a UHF array With "N" connectors. I'm either very lucky or it's not a
problem.
Don W4DNR

Quoting "jim.thom@... [ham_amplifiers]"
<ham_amplifiers@...>:

I buy....'dielectric grease' from local auto parts store. Use
sparingly on pin of coax plugs..and shield threads. Wipe off
any excess. Don't use it to fill air voids, like on type N
or 7-16 din.

I can't tell any difference between auto dielectric grease and
Dow dc 3/4... except the auto stuff has higher V stand off.


Jim VE7RF
--
Roger (K8RI)


Re: Stuff?

 

I fill all the air voids with DC-4. Twenty years and no water intrusion on a combination of connectors ranging from low band 259s to a UHF array With "N" connectors. I'm either very lucky or it's not a problem.
Don W4DNR


Quoting "jim.thom@... [ham_amplifiers]" <ham_amplifiers@...>:

I buy....'dielectric grease' from local auto parts store. Use sparingly on pin of coax plugs..and shield threads. Wipe off any excess. Don't use it to fill air voids, like on type N or 7-16 din.

I can't tell any difference between auto dielectric grease and Dow dc 3/4... except the auto stuff has higher V stand off.


Jim VE7RF


Re: Stuff?

 

I? buy....'dielectric grease'? from? local auto parts store. Use? sparingly on? pin of? coax? plugs..and shield threads.? ?Wipe off any? excess.? ?Don't use? it to? fill? air voids,? like on type N? or? 7-16 din.?

I? can't tell? any difference between auto? dielectric? grease and? ?Dow? dc 3/4...? except the? auto? stuff? has? higher? V? stand off.?

Jim? ?VE7RF
?? ??


Re: Stuff?

 

Thanks Roger.

My "Stuf" will be arriving in the post today (Monday).

See

I bought 5 tubes of it from RF Parts. Other places were cheaper but they are on drugs with their international postage charges.

I have 3 friends coming to help me set up my new antennas, in two weeks time. Apart from letting them drink all my beer, I will give them each a tube of it to take home.

73, Alek
VK6APK

On 8/09/2019 11:55 PM, 'Roger (K8RI)' k8ri@... [ham_amplifiers] wrote:
I use Dow Corning's (Now just Dow Chemical ... Following merger and
buyout) DC4 dielectric compound. It is a Silicone grease developed in
WWII to seal spark plugs on B17s to prevent arcing at connections at
high altitude. It remains a grease (never hardens) EXCEPT when subjected
to an arc which causes it to decompose leaving Silicon Dioxide (powdered
Quartz) behind as do all brands of Silicon dielectric greases. It used
to be expensive, but with competition the price has come down.
With Dow buying out Corning's stake it's now just another part of Dow
Chemical so I'm not sure what's available.
All their Specialty items including RTVs have become commodities with
substantial price reductions. I retired from DC in 1997 So have little
current information. As I recall, it has an infinite shelf life even
after the tube has been opened.
AFAIK all Silicone greases are pretty much the same regardless of who
makes it.

73, Roger (K8RI)

On 8/28/2019 5:31 AM, Alek Petkovic vk6apk@... [ham_amplifiers]
wrote:

Does anybody know where to get "Stuff?"

I'm talking about the goo that you put in coax connector joins, which
fills the void in the connection and seals out any moisture.

A Google search has come up blank.

73 and thanks,
Alek.

--
From sunny Binningup

Family Businesses:
SP Electrical. www.spelectrical.net.au
The Velvet Fox.
Smart Design Electrical.
Perth Interiors.


--
From sunny Binningup



Family Businesses:
SP Electrical. www.spelectrical.net.au
The Velvet Fox.
Smart Design Electrical.
Perth Interiors.


Re: Stuff?

 

I use Dow Corning's (Now just Dow Chemical? ... Following merger and buyout)? DC4 dielectric compound.? It is a Silicone grease developed in WWII to seal spark plugs on B17s to prevent arcing at connections at high altitude. It remains a grease (never hardens) EXCEPT when subjected to an arc which causes it to decompose leaving Silicon Dioxide (powdered Quartz) behind as do all brands of Silicon dielectric greases.? It used to be expensive, but with competition the price has come down.
? With Dow buying out Corning's stake it's now just another part of Dow Chemical so I'm not sure what's available.
All their Specialty items including RTVs have become commodities with substantial price reductions.? I retired from DC in 1997 So have little current information.? As I recall, it has an infinite shelf life even after the tube has been opened.
AFAIK all Silicone greases are pretty much the same regardless of who makes it.

73, Roger (K8RI)

On 8/28/2019 5:31 AM, Alek Petkovic vk6apk@... [ham_amplifiers] wrote:

Does anybody know where to get "Stuff?"

I'm talking about the goo that you put in coax connector joins, which
fills the void in the connection and seals out any moisture.

A Google search has come up blank.

73 and thanks,
Alek.

--
From sunny Binningup

Family Businesses:
SP Electrical. www.spelectrical.net.au
The Velvet Fox.
Smart Design Electrical.
Perth Interiors.

--
Roger (K8RI)


Re: FL-2100Z Mods

 

?
I have worked on numerous 2100Z amps including some converted to 6M and have had not needed any special mods other than to the bias supply for Svetlana tubes.
?
I have looked at his mostly off the wall mods for the SB-200 as real Hammy Hambone technology.
?
Carl

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, August 31, 2019 6:44 AM
Subject: Re: [ham_amplifiers] FL-2100Z Mods

?

Alek, I’d?check and see what Tom W8JI recommends at his web page for those amps. ?I’d also consider if any of the rest of the mods are a good idea as well. ?I know some are ok but some are also questionable. ?Lou

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
Get the new AOL app:

On?Friday, August 30, 2019,?Alek Petkovic vk6apk@... [ham_amplifiers]?<ham_amplifiers@...>?wrote:

?

A local ham dropped in a Yaesu FL-2100Z amp tp me and said that he would
like all the PA0FRI mods done to it.

See http://www.pa0fri.com/

This is no big problem, as most of the mods are common sense and they
are what one would normally do to an amp.

However, there is one mod that strikes me as odd.

He suggests cutting the grounding wires on VC1, the plate tune
capacitor, and running a thick wire or coax from the cold side of VC1 to
a ground point at the base of one of the 572B sockets.

This seems very odd to me. I don't see how this would enhance stability,
having that grounding wire running all that way.

Every amp I have seen or built, has the cold end of the capacitor bonded
to the nearest point on the chassis.

Should one be doing this mod? My feeling is that it should be left alone.

Opinions appreciated.

Thanks, Alek.
VK6APK

--
From sunny Binningup

Family Businesses:
SP Electrical. www.spelectrical.net.au
The Velvet Fox. https://www.facebook.com/TheVelvetFox/
Smart Design Electrical. https://www.facebook.com/smartdesignelectrical/
Perth Interiors. https://www.instagram.com/perthinteriors/


Virus-free.


Re: FL-2100Z Mods

 

开云体育

Very interesting Sam. Thanks for that info.

Cheers, Alek.

On 31/08/2019 10:50 AM, Svante Nordenstrom sm3dyu@... [ham_amplifiers] wrote:
Hi

I have done an amp that had suffered multiple oscillations on 10 meters and damaged the bandswitch.?

The grounding of VC1 was done according to the article and that cured the oscillation. Amp was stable and still is without burning bandswitch contacts.

It seems not all amps have the problem with instability, but if the amp you are working on Alek, have arc marks on the bandswitch, this may be the remedy.

73
Sam
HS0ZDY


On Aug 31, 2562 BE, at 07:48, GGLL guiye8@... [ham_amplifiers] <ham_amplifiers@...> wrote:

?

GN, I've made some mods to 2100B, 2100Z, etc., several.

I have never made that specific mod, all amps worked fine and stable.

What I usually do is to add extra decoupling caps in plate choke base
(4400 pF extra), plus one 1000 pF before glitch resistor; 15 ohm 10 watt
glitch resistor at rectifiers pcb; increase grid caps upto 1000 pF; back
to back 1N5408 diodes (at shunt's place).

General cleaning, resolder and checking bias pcb caps and resistor
values, lube fan motors, checking SWR diodes and its compensation, etc.

You can add in parallel the extra, not used contacts at RL1 (I ask
myself why they didn't).

Don't forget to check the HV capacitors inside the tube's cage, some may
be cracked (see the attached image).

If you need extra parameters, ratings at half and full voltage, email me.

Regards
Guillermo - LU5WE.

El 30/8/19 a las 21:18, Alek Petkovic vk6apk@...
[ham_amplifiers] escribió:
> ?
>
> A local ham dropped in a Yaesu FL-2100Z amp tp me and said that he would
> like all the PA0FRI mods done to it.
>
> See
>
> This is no big problem, as most of the mods are common sense and they
> are what one would normally do to an amp.
>
> However, there is one mod that strikes me as odd.
>
> He suggests cutting the grounding wires on VC1, the plate tune
> capacitor, and running a thick wire or coax from the cold side of VC1 to
> a ground point at the base of one of the 572B sockets.
>
> This seems very odd to me. I don't see how this would enhance stability,
> having that grounding wire running all that way.
>
> Every amp I have seen or built, has the cold end of the capacitor bonded
> to the nearest point on the chassis.
>
> Should one be doing this mod? My feeling is that it should be left alone.
>
> Opinions appreciated.
>
> Thanks, Alek.
> VK6APK
>
> --
> From sunny Binningup
>
> Family Businesses:
> SP Electrical.
> The Velvet Fox.
> Smart Design Electrical.
> Perth Interiors.
>
>


-- 
From sunny Binningup



Family Businesses:
SP Electrical. 
The Velvet Fox. 
Smart Design Electrical. 
Perth Interiors. 


Re: FL-2100Z Mods

 

开云体育

Thanks Lou.

Yes, with every amp that passes through here, particularly the Yaesu and Ameritron models, the first thing I do is get the filament volts down from 6.8v or 6.9V, to as close as possible to 6.3V.

Then a glitch resistor and the back to back diodes.

I always check the filter caps, bleeders and rectifier diodes and replace the lot, if there are signs of trouble.

A check of the parasitic suppressor resistors is always done and in the older, more well used amps, these resistors need replacing.

This particular 2100Z, is the most pristine I've ever seen. Original Cetron tubes, without a mark or speck of dust on them. The outside and inside of the amp, are like the thing has never been used. The fan blades are spotless. Just everything is spotless.

So, that's all I've done with this particular amp. I'll let the guy pick it up, as is.

Oh, it had a 2 wire mains power lead, with a US plug on it. I changed it for a 3 wire, so it could be properly earthed, to comply more closely with Aussie rules.

Thanks and 73, Alek.





On 31/08/2019 6:44 PM, Gudguyham@... [ham_amplifiers] wrote:
Alek, I’d?check and see what Tom W8JI recommends at his web page for those amps. ?I’d also consider if any of the rest of the mods are a good idea as well. ?I know some are ok but some are also questionable. ?Lou

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
Get the new AOL app:

On?Friday, August 30, 2019,?Alek Petkovic vk6apk@... [ham_amplifiers]??wrote:

?

A local ham dropped in a Yaesu FL-2100Z amp tp me and said that he would
like all the PA0FRI mods done to it.

See

This is no big problem, as most of the mods are common sense and they
are what one would normally do to an amp.

However, there is one mod that strikes me as odd.

He suggests cutting the grounding wires on VC1, the plate tune
capacitor, and running a thick wire or coax from the cold side of VC1 to
a ground point at the base of one of the 572B sockets.

This seems very odd to me. I don't see how this would enhance stability,
having that grounding wire running all that way.

Every amp I have seen or built, has the cold end of the capacitor bonded
to the nearest point on the chassis.

Should one be doing this mod? My feeling is that it should be left alone.

Opinions appreciated.

Thanks, Alek.
VK6APK

--
From sunny Binningup

Family Businesses:
SP Electrical.
The Velvet Fox.
Smart Design Electrical.
Perth Interiors.


-- 
From sunny Binningup



Family Businesses:
SP Electrical. 
The Velvet Fox. 
Smart Design Electrical. 
Perth Interiors. 


Re: FL-2100Z Mods

 

Alek, I’d?check and see what Tom W8JI recommends at his web page for those amps. ?I’d also consider if any of the rest of the mods are a good idea as well. ?I know some are ok but some are also questionable. ?Lou

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
Get the new AOL app:

On?Friday, August 30, 2019,?Alek Petkovic vk6apk@... [ham_amplifiers]??wrote:

?

A local ham dropped in a Yaesu FL-2100Z amp tp me and said that he would
like all the PA0FRI mods done to it.

See http://www.pa0fri.com/

This is no big problem, as most of the mods are common sense and they
are what one would normally do to an amp.

However, there is one mod that strikes me as odd.

He suggests cutting the grounding wires on VC1, the plate tune
capacitor, and running a thick wire or coax from the cold side of VC1 to
a ground point at the base of one of the 572B sockets.

This seems very odd to me. I don't see how this would enhance stability,
having that grounding wire running all that way.

Every amp I have seen or built, has the cold end of the capacitor bonded
to the nearest point on the chassis.

Should one be doing this mod? My feeling is that it should be left alone.

Opinions appreciated.

Thanks, Alek.
VK6APK

--
From sunny Binningup

Family Businesses:
SP Electrical. www.spelectrical.net.au
The Velvet Fox. https://www.facebook.com/TheVelvetFox/
Smart Design Electrical. https://www.facebook.com/smartdesignelectrical/
Perth Interiors. https://www.instagram.com/perthinteriors/


Re: FL-2100Z Mods

 

开云体育

Hi

I have done an amp that had suffered multiple oscillations on 10 meters and damaged the bandswitch.?

The grounding of VC1 was done according to the article and that cured the oscillation. Amp was stable and still is without burning bandswitch contacts.

It seems not all amps have the problem with instability, but if the amp you are working on Alek, have arc marks on the bandswitch, this may be the remedy.

73
Sam
HS0ZDY


On Aug 31, 2562 BE, at 07:48, GGLL guiye8@... [ham_amplifiers] <ham_amplifiers@...> wrote:

?

GN, I've made some mods to 2100B, 2100Z, etc., several.

I have never made that specific mod, all amps worked fine and stable.

What I usually do is to add extra decoupling caps in plate choke base
(4400 pF extra), plus one 1000 pF before glitch resistor; 15 ohm 10 watt
glitch resistor at rectifiers pcb; increase grid caps upto 1000 pF; back
to back 1N5408 diodes (at shunt's place).

General cleaning, resolder and checking bias pcb caps and resistor
values, lube fan motors, checking SWR diodes and its compensation, etc.

You can add in parallel the extra, not used contacts at RL1 (I ask
myself why they didn't).

Don't forget to check the HV capacitors inside the tube's cage, some may
be cracked (see the attached image).

If you need extra parameters, ratings at half and full voltage, email me.

Regards
Guillermo - LU5WE.

El 30/8/19 a las 21:18, Alek Petkovic vk6apk@...
[ham_amplifiers] escribió:
> ?
>
> A local ham dropped in a Yaesu FL-2100Z amp tp me and said that he would
> like all the PA0FRI mods done to it.
>
> See
>
> This is no big problem, as most of the mods are common sense and they
> are what one would normally do to an amp.
>
> However, there is one mod that strikes me as odd.
>
> He suggests cutting the grounding wires on VC1, the plate tune
> capacitor, and running a thick wire or coax from the cold side of VC1 to
> a ground point at the base of one of the 572B sockets.
>
> This seems very odd to me. I don't see how this would enhance stability,
> having that grounding wire running all that way.
>
> Every amp I have seen or built, has the cold end of the capacitor bonded
> to the nearest point on the chassis.
>
> Should one be doing this mod? My feeling is that it should be left alone.
>
> Opinions appreciated.
>
> Thanks, Alek.
> VK6APK
>
> --
> From sunny Binningup
>
> Family Businesses:
> SP Electrical.
> The Velvet Fox.
> Smart Design Electrical.
> Perth Interiors.
>
>


Re: FL-2100Z Mods

GGLL
 

GN, I've made some mods to 2100B, 2100Z, etc., several.

I have never made that specific mod, all amps worked fine and stable.

What I usually do is to add extra decoupling caps in plate choke base
(4400 pF extra), plus one 1000 pF before glitch resistor; 15 ohm 10 watt
glitch resistor at rectifiers pcb; increase grid caps upto 1000 pF; back
to back 1N5408 diodes (at shunt's place).

General cleaning, resolder and checking bias pcb caps and resistor
values, lube fan motors, checking SWR diodes and its compensation, etc.

You can add in parallel the extra, not used contacts at RL1 (I ask
myself why they didn't).

Don't forget to check the HV capacitors inside the tube's cage, some may
be cracked (see the attached image).

If you need extra parameters, ratings at half and full voltage, email me.

Regards
Guillermo - LU5WE.

El 30/8/19 a las 21:18, Alek Petkovic vk6apk@...
[ham_amplifiers] escribió:
?

A local ham dropped in a Yaesu FL-2100Z amp tp me and said that he would
like all the PA0FRI mods done to it.

See

This is no big problem, as most of the mods are common sense and they
are what one would normally do to an amp.

However, there is one mod that strikes me as odd.

He suggests cutting the grounding wires on VC1, the plate tune
capacitor, and running a thick wire or coax from the cold side of VC1 to
a ground point at the base of one of the 572B sockets.

This seems very odd to me. I don't see how this would enhance stability,
having that grounding wire running all that way.

Every amp I have seen or built, has the cold end of the capacitor bonded
to the nearest point on the chassis.

Should one be doing this mod? My feeling is that it should be left alone.

Opinions appreciated.

Thanks, Alek.
VK6APK

--
From sunny Binningup

Family Businesses:
SP Electrical. www.spelectrical.net.au
The Velvet Fox.
Smart Design Electrical.
Perth Interiors.